Frame extension to the house: how to make a wall “cake” and how to legalize the construction. Options for manufacturing extensions to a wooden house
When for some reason there is a need to increase the living area of \u200b\u200ba country house, the easiest and at the same time economical way to do this is to build a frame extension to the house. Its main advantage lies in the fact that it can be independently erected in a minimum period and at the same time, no serious skills in owning a carpentry tool are needed.
In order to make the building not only useful, but also beautiful, it is best to familiarize yourself in advance with how it should be built.
The purpose of the extension
In order to avoid the transformation of the extension in the future, it is advisable to carefully consider all the details of the structure under construction during the planning. First of all, it is important to decide what the purpose of the extension to the house, made by yourself.
The first and most common option is an additional room. In fact, the construction of another room according to the scheme will be similar to the construction of a house with a small area. The main thing is not to forget each of the structures of the new building to be properly insulated so that the room heating is effective and in the future just to avoid heat loss.
This is not the moment at which you can save money, as well as on the insulation of the foundation and the implementation of waterproofing, because otherwise mold will form on the walls and dampness will make it impossible even for a short time in the room.
The second option is a bathroom or kitchen. Having looked at the photo of the extension to the house, you probably already understood that in this case the main thing is to bring in advance all the necessary engineering communications before starting the foundation.
Also, it is necessary to well insulate the places of passage of sewer and water pipes through the foundation. An important point: in order to save money, it is better to carry out all work during construction.
Another popular extension option is the veranda. It can be open type or glazed. Most often used for summer vacations. Due to the fact that usually the building is not additionally heated, the design is quite light in terms of construction.
All that is needed is a roof on the supports, as well as a flooring with walls. During the construction of the veranda, an important point is that it must necessarily be combined in size, materials used for construction and style with the house.
What material to choose for the walls of the annex?
Thinking about how to make an extension, you first need to think about what materials for the walls will be used. With panel or frame technology, as a rule, this is a sandwich:
- Wind protection, i.e. external waterproofing film
- Rockwool or expanded polystyrene placed between OSB sheets
- Vapor barrier membrane for internal protection
If you are interested in expensive methods, then you can masonry from any lightweight blocks. It can be foam or aerated concrete. When purchasing foam concrete blocks to the developer without any construction practice, it is worth considering that this material has its own characteristics:
Firstly, in almost 90% of cases, even the walls made to date, from the most expensive foam concrete in the future, will be covered with a large number of small cracks.
Secondly, all facades will need to be plastered using pre-selected compounds directly on the grid.
When choosing walls from various foamed concrete, it is worth paying attention to the fact that for any roofing materials, such as ceramic / slate tiles, they are all not strong enough. For this reason, the ideal option for sheltering a building is a corrugated board or ondulin.
An annex made of high-quality SIP panels
Today, one of the budget options for self-construction is an extension to the house, made of popular SIP panels, which have standard sizes. During construction, a number of nuances should be taken into account.
All screw piles with a wooden grillage, that is, the beam is always fixed in the heads specially designated for this with the help of large nails.
It is envisaged that all communications must be removed inside the panels, that is, the wiring of engineering systems is hidden here.
Due to the fact that the roof and floor lathing is made of the same material, an equal resource is provided for all power structures.
There are no cold bridges, which guarantees a rational arrangement of the entire thermal circuit in a future extension.
Since this material is self-supporting and structural in description, a beam that is used to perform their mandatory joining does not serve as a power frame of the house. It will be possible to achieve strength and absolute rigidity of the completed construction only after installing the last of the panels.
In conclusion, it is worth noting that annexes consisting of several floors are rarely found, so, as a rule, the minimum amount of lumber is spent on makeshift forests.
And in conclusion, an important point: it is best to legalize an extension to your home in advance in order to avoid undesirable dismantling in the event that the decision of the relevant authorities is suddenly not positive.
Photo of the extension to the house
Solving the housing problem with your own private home is much easier than in a city apartment. The best option is to make an extension that can be used for a variety of purposes:
- full living room - additional room;
- a living room with an attic (if the extension will be two-story);
- utility room - own pantry, which can largely replace the cellar;
- a spacious terrace or veranda where you can spend the whole family relaxing;
- garage for cars.
Below we will discuss the basics of technology and step-by-step instructions for creating an extension to a wooden house.
Before choosing a specific building material and the technology of building an extension, it is important to clearly define the purpose of the room. Perhaps it’s worth immediately planning the creation of an extension in which it will be possible to live all year round - in case of expanding the composition of the family or the arrival of a large number of guests.
Types of extensions
There are several varieties of extensions to the wooden house. They differ in material, as well as installation features:
- frame extensions;
- from a cylindrical bar;
- from a brick;
- from cinder block.
Before erecting a structure, it is important to take into account all the nuances that can affect the choice of materials and the specific type of extension:
![](https://i0.wp.com/v-teplo.ru/img/post/441-pristroika-k-domu/image2.jpg)
To make the right choice of a specific extension project means to correctly correlate the purpose of this building, the features of the house to which it is attached, with the technology and material of manufacture. To do this, it is important to understand how each type of such structures is built.
DIY frame extension: step-by-step instructions and video
The frame extension has a number of advantages:
- the design is quite simple, and if everything is correctly calculated, it is quite possible to do it yourself;
- it is erected much faster than brick, cinder blocks;
- the design is quite light in weight and does not require much effort during operation;
- in terms of thermal insulation, durability and other consumer qualities, the frame extension to the house is not inferior to others types of designs.
NOTE. If you intend to build a two-story extension, it is worth considering this option - the structure is lightweight and will not create excessive pressure on the ground, so the risks of subsidence are significantly reduced.
Preparation for construction
At the preparatory stage, it is important to solve the following tasks:
- What will be the material of the frame - wooden bars or metal profiles.
- What type of annex will be associated with the main building.
- Precisely calculate all dimensions of the structure and develop a detailed drawing.
- Collect all the necessary materials and tools.
First of all, it is important to determine what type of structure will be built - as a continuation of the house with an increase in the main roof for mounting a single roof or as an adjoining building.
It is clear that the second case will be cheaper, easier and faster - the extension will simply be adjacent to the wall. You can make access from the house directly to it, if you make a corresponding hole and put the door.
The scheme of adjoining the structure to the house is presented below.
Structurally, this solution is a roof, placed on the supports. The roof is standardly presented from rafters and support boards. For a longer service life, it is desirable to insulate it, lay out a layer of waterproofing. The basis, as a rule, is an ordinary strip foundation.
Pairing with the main part of the house occurs at 2 points:
- wall;
- roof.
The compound in each of them has its own characteristics, which will be described below. A preliminary sketch of the extension, as well as practical tips that should be considered before starting work:
At the same time, for the roof of the extension it is better to choose a material that is flexible enough to make the necessary corrections. You can purchase corrugated board (height within 1 cm) or soft tiles.
In this sense, slate or traditional ceramic tiles, metal tiles will not work.
The frame is made of wood or metal. Moreover, all parts must consist of only one type of material - then the extension is more reliable and lasts longer.
NOTE. Even if the house is in good condition, but quite old, its subsidence rate will be several times higher than the extension drawdown. Accordingly, it is better not to use a rigid type of abutment of the structure to the main wall. In this case, another type of installation is used - the "groove-comb".
As for the tools, special equipment is not required: it is important to have a screwdriver, a saw, pliers, a building level and other devices for working on wood.
Installation work must be carried out at least by two people - some stages will require joint efforts.
Foundation laying
The first stage of work is laying the foundation. Since in the vast majority of cases, the construction of a house does not provide for the construction of a foundation for an extension, the foundation must not only be properly laid, but also securely connected to the main foundation.
NOTE. If you are planning the construction of a newly built house, it is better to take into account the extension immediately. You can make it after a while, and laying the foundation together with the foundation of the main building is technically the right option. In this case, the house and the annex will be one, which will ensure their reliability.
The main requirements for the base of the extension are the following:
- reliability - stable maintenance of the weight of the structure without subsidence: especially relevant for extensions of heavy materials or two-story structures;
- maximum identity with the main foundation for the material and depth of the bookmark;
- the most complete adhesion to the main foundation.
Most often, tape foundations are chosen for the extension, since they are quite capable of coping with such loads. Moreover, the installation features always depend on the type of soil. You can lay monolithic foundations of brick or concrete blocks, fill them with drainage materials.
Schematic diagrams of the bases are presented in the figure.
The construction technology of the strip foundation for the extension does not differ from the usual. In short, a trench is dug up, reinforced and poured with concrete.
Foundation connection with the main
This is the most crucial stage. which needs special attention. Traditionally, two types of compounds are used:
- "Tape-tape";
- "Stove-stove".
As a “tape-tape”, the stages of work will be as follows:
- On the installation side of the extension, a trench is excavated corresponding to the depth of laying the main foundation.
- Further, a hole half a meter in diameter is drilled at the base of the house - for the corners of the annex foundation. For all other parts, the hole corresponds to the diameter of the reinforcement at a depth of 2/3.
- The fittings are driven into the foundation of the house, a wood wedge is used for this ..
- On the driven-in reinforcement, the foundation of the extension is formed.
Installation according to the “plate-plate” scheme is possible in 2 cases:
- the width of the main foundation allows for appropriate work (from 450 mm);
- the plate protrudes from the base (minimum 300 mm).
Thanks to the extension, it is often possible to solve another important problem - to strengthen the old foundation and thereby support the sagging house. Visual video instructions:
Features of laying the foundation in the case of an old house:
Installation of the floor in the annex
Correctly making the floor in a future room is important in terms of 2 factors:
- thermal insulation;
- flatness of the surface.
It is important to perform a quality floor, especially in cases where the extension to the house will be used as an additional room with the possibility of year-round living.
The strip foundation allows you to mount both a concrete floor and make it of wood. In the case of a columnar base, it is possible to make only a wooden coating.
Concrete floor
The sequence of technology bookmarking this floor looks like this:
![](https://i2.wp.com/v-teplo.ru/img/post/441-pristroika-k-domu/image10.jpg)
The concrete surface is quite cold, so this floor needs to be thoroughly insulated, especially in the northern regions.
Wooden floor
On a columnar or strip foundation, a floor created on the basis of wooden floors is excellent. It needs additional processing in order to avoid decay, however the wooden flooring is much warmer than concrete.
The installation sequence of the wooden floor looks like this:
- If the extension to the house is being built as a capital structure, then preparatory work is being done on laying sand, gravel or expanded clay, as is the case with concrete floors.
- A ruberoid substrate is placed on the foundation.
- Bearing beams are laid on it. If the foundation is columnar, then they are mounted directly on the poles, the length is selected in accordance with the interval. If the foundation is strip, it is important to install intermediate columns at a certain interval or use long beams if the extension is small in area.
- A wooden coating is mounted on the beams.
All wooden parts must be carefully varnished to prevent decay.
A good example of installing a wooden floor in an annex of a cinder block is shown in the video.
Frame mounting
The next stage is associated with the direct construction of the frame structure. For this, first of all, it is necessary to install a strapping beam. If it is assumed that the wall thickness will be 200 mm, then the dimensions of the end bar will be 25-40 mm, as shown in the detailed diagram.
The result is a design of approximately this kind.
The cutting of the groove in the base can be done full and incomplete. Can be articulated without cutting using a steel angle.
The lower harness is made in several stages:
- The socket is mounted in the frame.
- The pad is nailed to the base.
- The support column is attached using a bracket.
The upper harness is formed for reliable installation of floor beams, as shown in the diagram.
NOTE. The interval between the vertical supports must be performed at least 50-60 cm, since in this case it will be easy to lay insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, ecowool, etc.). In addition, in a more frequent arrangement of racks there is no practical need.
The overall frame design is shown in the diagram.
The construction of walls occurs according to the following algorithm:
- Installation on the foundation of a prefabricated lower harness. The harness is screwed with dowels.
- Vertical bars are nailed to the wall of the house, if a rigid fastening of two structures is supposed. If you just need to build a nearby building, then corner racks with temporary fastening are first made.
- Mounted vertical bars. Their height is selected depending on the number of storeys of the structure, as well as on the method of connection with the main roof of the house.
- Next, the upper harness is mounted.
- The last stage in the installation is the manufacture of holes for windows and doors.
Between the harness and the foundations, a waterproofing layer is definitely placed - foamed polyethylene, roofing material or other material.
TIP. If it is planned to build a large extension with a large number of bars, it is more convenient to assemble the frame separately by installing all the bars on the lower harness. In this case, there is no need to fasten each element using temporary slopes.
Assembly of the roof and its docking with the main roof
Installation of rafters is carried out in the same way as with a conventional roof, however, the need to connect the roof with the roof of the house gives rise to a number of features of this work.
In general, the finished design can be schematically depicted as follows.
After the frame is erected, the roof material of the house from the extension side needs to be disassembled so that the rafters appear. It is to them that the connecting rafters of the extension are mounted. Installation is carried out according to the principle of a rigid triangle, while in front of an acute angle it is important to put an additional beam (shown in the figure by arrows). These elements also serve as an additional measure of protection during snowfalls, which is why they are also called snow supports.
The steps for installing a roof can be briefly described as follows:
- The rafters from the extension are mounted with the upper frame of the frame.
- The upper end of the rafters is connected to the girder, which is pre-installed on the roof or mounted directly on the roof rafters.
Video editing features
NOTE. Do not connect the rafters of the extension with the house in a rigid way. This can damage the structure due to the uneven rate of shrinkage of the main room and the extension. The optimal solution to this problem is the use of a sliding design that provides free movement of the lower support.
Finishing and insulation of the roof
At this stage, the roof is completely finished with its sealing and warming, as shown in the diagram.
NOTE. If the roof of the extension will simply adjoin the wall of the house, and not organically connect to its roof, then a sealant is used to warm it, tightly closing the hole between the roof and the wall, as shown in the diagram.
Construction and insulation of walls
One of the last stages is the construction of walls and their insulation. The extension is a long-term construction, and even if it is used only for economic purposes, it is important to create good enough insulation so that temperature changes cannot damage the internal surfaces of the walls and ceiling.
Schematically, the structure of the wall can be represented as follows.
In fact, this is the final stage of the construction itself. Next, the following work should be done:
- finishing work inside the annex:
- facing the building outside;
- creating a transition to the house;
- the manufacture of windows and doors in the structure;
- conducting all necessary communications.
It is important to treat all wooden structures with special solutions that prevent decay and the harmful effects of temperature extremes.
Outbuilding
The principal stages of the construction of the extension (pouring the foundation, building walls and installing the roof, followed by insulation and finishing work) do not depend on the choice of a specific construction material. However, depending on it, its own technologies are selected, which differ markedly from each other.
Foundation construction
In the case of an extension of the beam (profiled or round), the differences begin already at the stage of laying the foundation. Since the weight of the future extension will be significantly more than the weight of the frame analogue, respectively, and the basis is required more reliable.
A tiled foundation or pile foundation is often used, less often a strip foundation (it is quite suitable for small extensions). In any case, it is necessary that it is stable for at least 1 year.
From the point of view of simplicity and cheaper operation, the best option would be to create a pile foundation that can be built regardless of the main foundation of the house.
Video - the basics of pile foundation installation technology
Walling
To build walls is quite simple in terms of technology. The only drawback of the beam is that it is quite heavy, and at least two people need to work with it.
Fixing materials are used as follows:
staples and metal plates;
- brackets;
- steel corners;
- screws, screws, nails.
The technology of laying a round beam during the construction of an extension to the house:
The rest of the work
The technology of walling, insulation and decoration does not fundamentally differ from that which was previously described.
In the case of the construction of timber structures, it is easy to make two-story structures. Of course, in this case, special requirements are placed on the foundation and floors.
Brick Annex
Brick annexes to a wooden house are less common. They are great for living, they can also be used as a utility room.
Most often in such cases, a monolithic foundation is used. In this case, the brick structure can serve as the basis for the construction of the second of the same floor or attic. The installation of the floor and the roof according to the technology do not have fundamental differences from those discussed above.
Cinder block annex
And another cheaper and faster option is the construction of an extension to a wooden or other house - from cinder blocks (foam blocks, gas blocks are also used). Such a room can serve as an additional room, but is most often used for household purposes.
The construction of a cinder block structure is very fast due to the large size of the building material. This option is perfect if the owners want to make a garage for cars or ordinary canopies, a veranda.
And finally - a short video review of the main stages of the construction of the frame annex to a wooden house.
Reading time ≈ 4 minutes
A private house needs to be expanded over time - there is a need to expand the kitchen, to extend the veranda or to arrange an additional room. Therefore, the owner of the house raises the question - how to make an extension to the house with your own hands? Below are the stages of construction using frame technology.
The advantages of wireframe technology
The frame extension to the house has important advantages:
- low cost and minimum number of building materials;
- work is fast;
- there is no need to equip a massive foundation.
Schemes and drawings of the extension project are clear to any novice builder. The technology is similar to the assembly of the designer, but in the end it turns out a comfortable and cozy additional room.
Preparatory work
The construction of an extension to the house begins with preparatory measures. Carefully inspect the site for construction, remove all rubbish and vegetation from it, mark the territory and stock up with the following materials and tools:
- metal pipes for supports;
- components for concrete mix - sand, cement, gravel;
- self-tapping screws, nails, metal corner for fastening;
- boards for logs 5 cm thick and 15 cm wide;
- perfectly finished boards for finishing flooring;
- natural wooden wall paneling;
- bar 50 mm;
- concrete mixer;
- hammer, screwdriver, building level, rope and circular saw;
- block house under the log for sheathing the extension on the outside;
- metal roof tiles.
Be sure to include a drainage system under the annex. To do this, tamp the ground under the veranda and make a slope at this place for water flow. Below is a step-by-step instruction on the construction of an extension.
Step-by-step instructions for building an extension to the house
1. Installation of supports. Nail a wooden board at least 5 cm wide to the wall of the house, which will become a support. On the edges of the marked plot for construction, install wooden structures - “castoffs”. They need to be installed a little further than the marked territory. Pull a strong rope over them. Check the marking dimensions so that everything is at right angles.
2. Dig a trench along the width of the foundation one meter deep. Prepare a cement mixture of sand, gravel and cement with added water. Make a wooden formwork. Begin to install supporting posts, make the distance between the posts no more than 1.5 m. Pour a gravel pillow about 10 cm thick at the bottom of the trench. Cut the pipes in advance and install them vertically in the hole, fixing with boards. Next, fill the gaps between the support columns and the walls of the trench with the prepared solution. To prevent the vertical position of the pipe in the pit, fix the supports with spacers and wait three days for the solution to freeze. After hardening, the formwork can be removed.
3. Creating a floor. At the next stage of creating an extension to a wooden house, take the log boards yourself. Two boards are mounted to the supports with metal mounting angles at the end of the extension - place the rest between them. When installing the lag, do not forget to check their horizontal location level. The transverse logs are mounted using 120 mm nails and grooves to the longitudinal part of the extension basement.
4. Mounting the base for walls and roof. The work begins by screwing the bars to the base of the floor with dowels and a punch. The side bars are nailed to the walls. You can get acquainted with the video and photo of this work in our article. Structural stability is ensured by diagonal bars laid at the outer corners. Do not forget to mark the door and window openings. The whole structure is reinforced with transverse insertion bridges. Outside, the base of the extension is sheathed with a block house. It is advisable to lay a layer of glassine on the boards of the crate before the lining, it will protect the building from moisture.
5. The arrangement of the roof. After installing windows and doors, the roof is covered with metal. The place where the roof is adjacent to the building, cover the apron made of galvanized iron.
6. Internal work. An extension to the house with their own hands will soon be built, there are internal works. The walls and ceiling are sheathed with natural wooden lining. Before this, they can be insulated with penofol. To create a floor, you first need to make the floor rough. On the sides of the genital lags, a rough block is laid, trim boards lie on it. They put insulation in the form of mineral wool, and then proceed with the installation of the finishing floor.
We hope that our instructions have helped you learn how to build an extension to the house. If you carefully study the sequence of work and properly prepare building materials and tools, as well as be patient - you can easily make a beautiful veranda yourself.
DIY video of building an extension to the house
No matter how large your private home may be, sometimes you need to attach another room to it. The purpose of the new room may be different: a bedroom, a pantry, a gym, a veranda, a dining room, even a bathhouse or a garage are arranged inside. The best option in this case is an extension to the house from the frame. The construction is put on the foundation, they make a kind of frame "skeleton", on which the walls of OSB-plates, insulation and waterproofing are "put on". The annex to the house is equipped with a floor and a separate roof, sometimes windows and a door.
Before starting the construction of the frame extension to the house, determine its location. On the north or east side, it is advisable to place a pantry or utility room, on the south or west - a bedroom or a living room (then there will be a lot of light in the room, in the afternoon the sun will warm up the frame extension, so you will save on heating).
If a bedroom or a living room is located in the annex, then make it on the south side - so you can save a little on heating
Now sketch a plan of the house with a new room on a piece of paper, indicate the exact dimensions of the building and the materials that will be used in the construction.
This plan must be submitted to the bureau of technical inventory of your locality. Of course, not all homeowners flee to BTI in order to organize a frame extension. But in vain! In the case of verification, an illegal building is likely to be required to be demolished. Do you need such problems?
As practice shows, BTI experts will not create obstacles and will quickly approve the project (maximum within 10 working days).
Permission from the BTI to the extension to the house will be issued within 10 days. Provided that the application meets all established requirements, and the construction - to technical standards
Tools and materials for creating a frame annex to the house
Permission from BTI received. Now you need to prepare tools and materials for construction. You will need:
- cement mortar;
- wooden boards;
- sand;
- small pebbles;
- OSB plates;
- insulation;
- waterproofing;
- putty;
- paint for OSB-plate;
- material for the roof device;
- wooden or metal door (at the request of the owner);
- a window in a plastic or wooden frame (if necessary);
- linoleum, ceramic tiles or laminate for flooring;
- hammer drill;
- construction mixer;
- rollers and brushes;
- nails and screws;
- polyurethane foam;
- construction stapler;
- shovel;
- metal pipes with a diameter of 15-20 cm, a length of 2.7-3 m.
Cement mortar is sold in bags of 25 kilograms each. Terms of use are indicated on the packaging of the goods. Price - 700 to 2 thousand rubles, one of the best manufacturers - Silka, Maxssil, Mapey.
The base of the extension should be strong and stable, so for the foundation, choose high-quality cement, not a cheap mixture
Wooden boards will be needed first to create the foundation formwork. Then they can be covered with a cement-flooded floor to insulate and soften it. For such purposes, spruce, pine, oak are best suited. The thickness of the board is at least 5 millimeters. Choose the length depending on the area of \u200b\u200bthe frame extension to the house.
Choose OSB with a thickness of at least 7 millimeters with dimensions of 100 × 100 centimeters. The plate itself should be smooth and monophonic. This indicates a high quality product.
As a heater, you can use mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. The first option is cheap, but the material quickly becomes unusable. Expanded polystyrene has a long service life (up to 20 years). It is implemented in the form of plates, the size of one is 200 × 100 centimeters.
Choose products from 10 millimeters thick from companies: Penoplex, Extrol, and TechnoNikol.
Expanded polystyrene for warming an extension to the house is preferable to mineral wool. It does not absorb liquid, is not afraid of temperature changes
Waterproofing is required. As such, a polymer roll material can be used. Thickness - at least 5 millimeters.
The price per square meter is about 500 rubles. Among firms, users recommend giving preference to the following: Bolars, Penetron, Polyethylene, Bison.
Putty and paint are needed for exterior and interior decoration. You can learn more about choosing a paint.
On the roof you can put metal. This material, durable and steady against weather cataclysms, which will serve for a long time, besides it looks stylishly, is inexpensive.
You will pay 200-400 rubles per square meter. The thickness of the tiles should be at least 5 millimeters.
Important: the easiest way to create a frame extension to the house with the help of OSB. Such a room will be warm and durable, if properly insulated. Of course, you can build walls from bricks, foam blocks or wooden beams. But it is much more expensive and energy consuming.
The drawings presented below will help determine the type of premises:
Using this drawing, you can create a simple extension to the house with a pitched roof. Use custom sizes
Such a drawing of an extension to the house will help to simply and quickly build an additional room or, for example, a pantry
By stages: construction stage of the building
The process of building a frame extension to a wooden house can be divided into several stages:
- foundation building;
- filling the floor;
- the construction of the frame for the extension;
- wall production;
- roof laying;
- installation of windows, doors;
- exterior finish;
- interior decoration.
Work must be performed sequentially, observing the instructions and safety precautions. For some "events" (installing windows, roofing), it is advisable to attract an assistant.
Strong foundation: fill the foundation
To create a frame extension to the house, it is necessary to fill in the strip foundation. But if the site has a high level of groundwater, then it is more correct to make a pile or columnar base.
The instruction for the construction of a strip foundation is as follows:
- Mark and dig a trench 30 cm deep and 20 cm wide. The result should be a rectangle or square.
- Fill the trench first with sand, then with stones exactly half for strength.
- Insert metal pipes at the corners of the trench. They will serve as the basis for the future framework.
- Build the basement formwork from the boards and fill the trench with cement mortar, prepared strictly according to the instructions.
- Leave the structure for 24 hours until completely dry.
- Then fill the floor with cement mortar. It will completely dry in a day or two, depending on weather conditions. The warmer it is in the street, the faster the cement hardens.
You will learn how to make a strip foundation from the video.
If you need a columnar or pile foundation, watch the following videos. They will talk about the rules for the construction of such grounds.
Strong "skeleton": put the frame
The future building already has iron pipes in the corners. Between them horizontally from the floor to the end of the pipe, other metal pipes are welded. The distance between the parallel parts is at least 70 centimeters. “Connect” the corner iron parts with each other using wooden boards. They will also serve as a framework.
Important: if the distance between the corner tubes is more than 1 meter, then in the middle you can put another vertical pipe or board to give the frame strength and reliability.
See how to make a frame for an extension to the house in the video.
Construction "sandwich": building walls
Now, in the process of erecting an extension from the frame to a wooden house with your own hands, the most difficult and interesting begins: the erection of walls. One camp is already there - it is part of the house. It remains to do three more:
- attach the OSB to the frame using nails. Between them there should not be large gaps of more than 3 millimeters.
- On the inside of the OSB plate, fix the waterproofing with a construction stapler. The material should cover the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe walls - from top to bottom.
- Fasten the insulation with waterproofing foam to the waterproofing. The work is not complicated. It is quite possible to deal with it alone. Do not apply too thick a layer of foam and firmly press the insulation plate against the OSB wall.
- Put OSB-plates on the insulation. Attach them with self-tapping screws.
- Attach the waterproofing to the existing wall of the house, and OSB on top.
- If cracks have formed between the slabs or the floor itself, fill them with foam.
Builders call this design a “sandwich”. It is built quickly and easily, but it is practical in operation, reliable and durable.
If you need to install windows and doors, consider them before you even install the walls. In OSB-plates, it will be necessary to pre-cut holes of the desired size.
You will learn more about the plates themselves from the video:
Serious protection: no roof - no way
The roof for the frame extension to the house can be made shed or. In any case, its creation involves the following stages:
- We build the base of wooden boards.
- We lay the insulation on top.
- We put waterproofing on the insulation.
- From above we fasten the metal tile with an overlap. In this case, moisture from precipitation will not accumulate under the tiles.
The shed roof of the extension to the house, as it were, continues the existing roof. Building it is pretty simple. It is enough to put the wooden rails of the required length on the main roof
To make it beautiful: interior and exterior decoration
The construction of the frame extension to the house is not completed until the internal and external decoration.
The best option for OSB boards is painting.
First, the surface is prepared:
- skinning is done;
- antiseptics are applied (Tikso, Drevolak good quality);
- priming (“Body”, “Tex”).
Then the plate is painted. Use alkyd, oil, water-based, acrylic, latex paints. For external and internal work, different products are used. Information on which surfaces a particular coloring agent can be used is indicated on the packaging.
You can find out more about painting OSB.
The interior decoration also includes floor treatment. They put waterproofing on the cement screed, then insulation and wooden boards (this step can be skipped if you put laminate, linoleum or ceramic tile on the insulation).
What's next?
It would seem that the frame extension to the house is ready. But putting it into operation is not yet possible - first you need to conduct electrical wiring in the room, install heating radiators and connect them to the common heating system of a private house.
You will learn how to post.
Read about the heating system.
To make it comfortable in the annex to the house at any time of the year, conduct wiring inside, install heating radiators
Finally
In order for the frame extension to the house to be durable and safe, clearly follow the basic rules when building private houses in general and creating outbuildings in particular. Do not forget about the basic safety requirements at a construction site. Protect hands and eyes, work in special clothing and sturdy shoes.
The easiest option to create an extension from the frame for the house is an OSB plate. It is quite light, but fully copes with its "professional duties."
It is believed that it is unsafe to use OSB - products are impregnated with a mixture of phenol for strength. However, when painting and priming, phenol stops and does not stand out, so OSB does not harm health.
Time passes, and it turns out that the private house no longer satisfies the owners with its size and amenities. A decision is made to expand its area with an extension. We will talk about how to accomplish this efficiently and without unnecessary costs in an article.
Save without compromising quality - room requirements and materials
Poorly thought-out design of the extension over time will force something to remodel or finish, to attach to the country house. In order not to fall into such a situation, we think through all the nuances, weigh the advantages and disadvantages of our ideas. We start by choosing a place and size.
Each type of additional room has its own specific features in connection with use, requirements for insulation, waterproofing and others. If you decide to build an additional living room in the country, then this is tantamount to the construction of a small house. It is required to reliably insulate, prevent the appearance of dampness. If you plan to stay in cold weather, you need to think about heating.
Another common type of outbuildings are kitchens and bathrooms. The requirements for them are practically no different. First of all, we think about utilities and bring them before the start of construction. Sewer pipes, water pipes are much more convenient to lay before pouring the foundation than then break through under it. Special attention is required to waterproof the flooring. We are thinking about warming, but if the kitchen is planned to be summer, then this can be saved.
Extend the house and the extension of the veranda. The structure is light, serves for summer holidays, protects the entrance from wind, snow and rain. It is carried out in many versions: from the simplest in the form of a wooden flooring, low walls with a roof on pillars, to complex with walls, a door, windows. No insulation is required, otherwise it will no longer be a veranda, but waterproofing the foundation is necessary.
The extension to the house should be in harmony with the main structure. If the house has external decoration, then it will not be difficult to repeat it on the attached building. With all materials, wood blends well, which looks great even without additional decoration. The best option would be a frame structure:
- erected quickly, in just a few months;
- does not require a capital foundation, because the lung;
- without special knowledge and skills is available for erection with their own hands;
- will cost less.
The base for the extension is done on the same level as the foundation of the house. Attaching the structure to the house, we do not do it tightly - over time it will shrink - and leave a compensatory seam. In this regard, frame structures that do not give vertical shrinkage are favorably distinguished.
If the structure is attached to the frontal wall, the roof continues the main roof and is shed. We select the slope so that the snow does not linger and the rain flows. If this is an extension to the side wall, then the roof repeats the configuration of the main one. The material of the roof is the same as on the roof of the house, if another - it is important that they are combined.
Column base - fast, cheap, reliable
For the columnar foundation of the extension to the house, concrete, brick or a combination of them is used. It is made mainly for a living room or porch. If applied to a kitchen or bathroom, thermal insulation is required to enter the utilities into the house. Since the protection concerns an average of half a meter of pipes, you can go for such costs, it will still come out cheaper than the strip foundation. The floor is made of boards, for concrete you will need a lot of material for backfilling, a fence around the perimeter.
We start with the layout of the site, the installation sites of the pillars are one and a half meters from each other. A separate pit 50 × 50 cm is dug under each pillar, with a depth greater than freezing of the soil. At the top of the pits, we expand a little: on each side about 10 cm. We fill the bottom with a layer of sand of 10 cm, carefully ram, then crushed stone or broken brick, which is also rammed.
We spread the film for waterproofing, we bring the ends to the surface. If we plan to build pillars of brick, pour a little concrete mortar for the foundation into each pit and wait for it to set. When columns of concrete are planned, we connect the reinforcement at the top along the entire height, lower it into the pits. We provide an equal distance between the walls. Under the bottom we lay pieces of brick to raise the reinforcement by about 4 cm.
We make the formwork for the base, inside which we launch the film. We pour concrete in layers, we pierce each layer several times with a bar so that air bubbles come out. It is important not to rush, it is better to wait until it grasps, then continue pouring. We carefully align the top of the column and wait about two weeks until the concrete hardens. All this time we pour heavily with water, cover with burlap or film.
When the foundation gains the necessary strength, the formwork is removed. We heat bituminous mastic, apply it on poles and immediately glue pieces of roofing material for waterproofing. Between the posts there is a space that it is advisable to fill in to insulate the floor. We use ordinary earth mixed with crushed stone or pieces of brick. We fall asleep in layers of 10 cm, ram. The technology of erecting a strip foundation is practically no different, but unlike a columnar foundation, it is solid.
Getting started - lower harness and extension floor
So, we settled on the wireframe version as the fastest and cheapest. In order for a tree to serve for a long time, it is necessary to adhere to two rules: make reliable waterproofing and conduct antiseptic treatment. Of course, the wood must be well dried. For waterproofing, the most reliable means is bitumen mastic. It is possible to use several layers of roofing material, but it is short-lived.
Then do the bottom harness. Typically, a beam of 150 × 150 mm is used, but it is possible to use boards of 150 × 50 mm. We lay them horizontally around the entire perimeter, leveling with the outer edges of the foundation. Boards of the first row are not interconnected. The second row is laid on top, overlapping the joints in the first.
In the boards laid in such a way on the foundation, we make through holes for the studs and connect them. If it is tape, we drill and connect it on the ground, and then we lay it. To get the effect of a single beam, knock down with nails in a checkerboard pattern after 20 cm. It turns out tying the desired thickness, which also has additional advantages:
- much cheaper than the bars;
- it is very simple to connect with each other, with bars it is more difficult.
We fasten the lower harness from the same planks of the same boards 150 × 50 mm installed on top of the rib along the outer edge. We fasten them with nails of 90 mm between each other and with the beds. Next, we expose the logs from the same material mounted on the rib. The distance between them is 60–80 cm, but it all depends on the size of the frame extension: the longer the logs, the more we install them. They are attached to the strapping board with nails, 2 on each side.
Now we begin to warm the floor. The cheapest, though not very environmentally friendly option is tiled polystyrene foam with a density of at least 15 kg / m 3. Its advantage is that it is the only one of the heaters that is not afraid of moisture. Nail the 50 × 50 mm bars to the bottom edges of the lag, which will hold the polystyrene foam. Thickness of 15 cm is required: we use sheets of 10 and 5 cm. We lay so that the seams of the lower and upper rows overlap.
The base is ready. We lay the rough floor on top. To prevent it from distorting over time, we stack it, alternating the direction of the annual rings. We look into the cut: we put one board with the arc up, the other - down. We make a fair floor from plywood, joints apart. The roughing base is not necessary in the presence of edged tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of 30 mm or plywood 15 mm. We lay right on the lags.
Wall mounting - two assembly technologies
There are two technologies for assembling frame structures. The first is called frame-shield, when the entire assembly is carried out on the ground, then the finished structures are installed in place and fastened together. Sometimes the carcass is immediately trimmed, which makes it even stronger. Another method involves the gradual installation on site. Which is more convenient - everyone decides for himself. The shield assembled on the ground cannot be raised alone; helpers will be required.
The construction of the frame begins with corner posts. For them and intermediate racks we use a beam of 150 × 150 mm or even 100 × 100 mm. The distance between the racks is determined by the width of the insulation, which we recognize in advance. We position the posts so that the gap between them is 3 cm narrower than the width of the insulation. So we save on waste-free use of the material and improve the quality of insulation without leaving cracks.
The fastening can be simply and reliably carried out by metal angles mounted on both sides of the racks and secured with stainless screws. Before finally fixing the rack, we carefully check its verticality, this is especially important for corners. One incorrectly exposed beam will lead to the fact that the entire extension is curved.
Maintain the correct shape of the frame is helped by temporary cuts that are installed from the inside and serve until the outer skin is attached. If the casing is made of hard and durable material like plywood, OSB, GVK, it is able to independently strengthen the base, which will stand reliably after removing temporary cuts. When soft material is planned for sheathing: siding, lining, then you can not do without constant braces. It is better to install them two at the bottom and on top of each rack.
In the places of installation of windows and doors we fix the cross-beams. We make double stands next to them: they experience increased loads and should be stronger. The final fastening of the frame is carried out by installing the upper harness. In order not to invent anything, it can be similar to the bottom: a bed of two boards fastened together and actually a strapping of the same boards mounted on a rib. To it in the same way as the sex lags were attached, we nail the floor beams from the boards 150 × 50 onto the rib with nails.
We constantly check the geometry of the entire structure, as well as the correct installation of the uprights and cross members: the upright stands vertically, the cross members horizontally.
Sloping roof - design and execution technology
The roof of the house with an annex consists of two parts, which should be harmoniously combined into one. If the extension is built on the side, the roof will be a continuation of the main one, it remains only to repeat its design in order to lengthen. When the annexed building is located in length, its roof is sloping. The slope is provided due to the difference in height of the front and rear struts. The height of the rear should ensure the entry roof of the extension under the main visor.
The roof supports are rafters, which are laid on beams. They are made of thick boards to ensure fixation, we make special grooves. We cut them on the ground according to the pattern so that they are all the same. Then after installation in place you do not need to align horizontally. We process the grooves with mastic, install and fasten to the walls with brackets, metal corners on hairpins. If the length exceeds 4 m, install additional vertical supports.
On top of the rafters, we lay the crate. Depending on the roofing material, we make it continuous or in increments of 0.3-0.6 m. The need for a solid wooden flooring arises in the case of using soft material, we do rarefied for all other types of roofing. Mounting is done depending on the type of roof. We fasten the profiled sheets and metal tiles with special self-tapping screws having sealing washers, ondulin - with wide-nailed nails. We provide an overlap of waves. Do not forget about the final design: the wind bars not only protect the roof, but also give it a complete look.
Warming - a mandatory operation for the extension
Mineral wool and polystyrene are mainly used for building insulation. Minerals resist fire, low thermal conductivity. They have a small weight, a convenient form of release for consumers: rolls, mats. Another popular insulation is polystyrene. Its advantages: it is inexpensive, not afraid of fungus, moisture, rot. But there are two big drawbacks: rodents are very fond of it, it emits toxic gases in a fire.
We carry out warming from the inside in the following sequence:
- 1. We install waterproofing, having previously cut the strips of the required sizes. We fasten with brackets, using a construction stapler, so as to provide an overlap. We sheathe the frame completely, driving in the staples after 10 cm.
- 2. We put a heater between racks. We provide a snug fit to wooden structures, we close the seams between the individual elements of the insulating material, overlapping the next layer.
- 3. We fix the vapor barrier, even if we use foam. The fact is that it is necessary to protect not only the insulation, but also the wood. Mounting is similar to waterproofing.
- 4. Sheathed walls from the inside. We use drywall on a perfectly flat frame or OSB, if there are bumps. It is more rigid and smooths out flaws.
Remained interior and exterior decoration, which provides scope for the imagination of the owner. The frame extension is being built quickly, cheaply, it has been used for more than a decade, and it can be built with virtually no outside help.