Wooden buildings in the country. What can be built on a summer cottage? Picnic table in the country
Since you are reading this article, a vacation outside the city on your site is attractive to you. A country house for this, of course, is necessary. It is highly desirable to build it simple, cheap and. For the sake of saving not only money and labor, but also the land area. In this publication you will find information on how to build a country house with your own hands is as simple as possible, rather, easier and cheaper. It is also desirable that the ergonomics of the house make it possible to wait out a long bad weather in it without experiencing discomfort, and the structure of the building makes it possible to use various design solutions for its external and internal design.
Where to start
The first question that needs to be solved when planning to build a country house is what to build it from? Where - it is already known, the site cannot be transported anywhere. According to the material, soil at the construction site and weather conditions, the structure of the house is selected, a finished project is developed or selected for it, and then an estimate, purchases, and for business. We will start with the choice of material.
What to build from?
Since we are interested in the simple-to-implement options, log houses are also excluded from consideration: it is very difficult to build them on our own. In addition, such houses are sensitive to seasonal ground movements and therefore require a foundation that is no less reliable than a full-depth belt (from 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth of the NGL, counting along the bottom of the belt). The foundation of full penetration must withstand in order to give its own shrinkage, at least from the end of summer to full spring heat next year. Insulated slab foundations require the same exposure, for example. Swedish plate. There is, however, a type of foundation for wooden houses that does not require a technological break (see below), but the most squared or log structure must withstand shrinkage for a year before it is ready for finishing. That's why a log or log cabin dacha will turn out to be disproportionately expensive (from about 12,000 rubles / sq. m) and difficult to build on its own.
The same situation occurs with brick houses and. Ultimately, the construction of a small country house made of brick, foam block or timber turns out to be advisable only in very small areas, when an extremely compact structure is required. In this case, the house is built with 2 floors; brick and timber technologies allow an unprepared, but attentive and neat builder to build a house on 2 floors. Examples of the layout of compact 2-storey brick and log houses are given in Fig.:
Note: It is easier for a novice builder to build a foam block house than a brick, log or log house. The construction of a country house from foam / gas blocks makes sense if the cottage is visited all year round - no additional insulation is needed and there will be less heating costs.
The easiest and fastest ways to build a small house is to assemble from a ready-made panel house kit or structurally insulated panels (SIP). A 20x20 foot (6x6 m) prefabricated panel house is put in a week by a pair of chimpanzees of average intelligence trained according to the instructions for the kit. No joke, there were such experiences. But, alas - the cost of construction. At current prices, somewhere from 18,000 rubles / sq. m. Without a foundation.
A house made of self-supporting insulated wire will cost less, approx. from 15,000 rubles / sq. m with a foundation on geo-screws (see below). However, self-supporting insulated wire structures are held by locks between the panels. In order for a self-supporting insulated wire house to be completely reliable, it must have a lot of internal partitions from the same self-supporting insulated wire with locks. Since there are few or no partitions in a compact house, we also do not touch SIP as a material for it.
So, we come to the conclusion: to build a country house, so that it is fast, simple and inexpensive you need from wood. With one small but significant exception, see below.
Project
It is better to build an inexpensive garden and / or compact country house according to a standard project; for the essential details of the construction, see below. A ready-made free project of a country house is quite easy to find using any search engine. Or for a fee - a detailed typical project of a garden house for 300 rubles. find really on the relevant sites.
How to choose easier and cheaper
However, when looking through projects, you need to take into account some significant circumstances, namely, the cost, duration and complexity of the zero cycle, i.e. earthworks and foundation laying. The point is the frost heaving of the soil. With seasonal movements, the ground under the house does not shake and does not roll over in waves. Summer cottages are cut on various soils, but they have one common property - their own sufficient cohesion, otherwise no one needs such a summer cottage. Therefore, within a certain space on the surface, frosty heaving of the soil is reduced mainly to the uplift / reverse subsidence of its surface with a slight roll.On the other hand, a small country house has excessive rigidity and elasticity. Here the law of the square-cube, well-known in technology (and stubbornly overlooked by amateurs), operates. It is simple to test it experimentally: glue cubes with sides of 2 and 10 cm from ordinary writing paper and try to crumple both. The third factor is the intrinsic cohesion of the soil is inextricably linked with its mechanical properties.
Without going into further details, let us immediately report the conclusion: if a small wooden country house in the plan fits into a circle of a certain diameter, then on ordinary soils of garden plots it can be built on an unburied foundation, which is much faster, simpler and cheaper. In which circle the project of a wooden house in the plan should fit in, so that it can be built on an unburied foundation on soils up to medium-porous, inclusive, is shown in Fig. It all depends, as we can see, on the proportions of the structure: the more “square” the house is, the better it plays out the seasonal movements of the ground. Therefore, it is better to build houses-"trams" for narrow sections, without looking closely, on the foundation of normal deepening. But if the ratio of the "stick" of the T-shaped house lies within 1 Note: a veranda / terrace is included in the projection of the house if it is rigidly connected with its structure. Verandas that do not have a mechanical connection with the house or are hinged with it are excluded from the projection of the house in the plan. We will assume that we have decided on the foundation. We will only remind that under a brick, timber or log house on all soils, except for non-porous ones, it is necessary to lay a normally buried tape or TISE foundation. A slab foundation with insulation "settles" on the ground for 2-3 years; this is enough for a log or log house to begin to split. Under a house made of timber or foam blocks on a slightly heaving soil, you can lay a foundation on geoscrews (see below) with a steel grillage. An shallow foundation for a compact country house is easier and cheaper to assemble a columnar from ready-made concrete blocks 200x200x400. Blocks are laid out on a cement-sand mortar from M150, two in a row; the upper ones cross the lower ones. Thus, the column is obtained in terms of 400x400 mm. Pits for posts are dug to a depth of 0.5 m; of which 15 + 15 cm falls on the anti-debris sand and crushed stone pillow. It makes no sense to deepen the pillars of blocks by more than 20 cm: the dressing of the seams is weak, and the horizontal components of the frost heaving forces will tear the pillars. The number of rows of blocks in the pillar is made more than 2, if the house needs to be raised more than 20 cm above the ground. The technical break after the installation of the columnar foundation from the blocks requires a minimum, for the hardening of the masonry mortar, this is approx. a week. The deep foundation of a compact house is often, modeled on large buildings, piled on bored piles in soft formwork made of roofing material. If the house is on a slope, asbestos-cement pipes are taken on the pile shell, which makes it possible to compensate for the difference in heights along the slope of up to 1.7 m or more. With regard to fast small-sized construction, the disadvantage of these foundations is the same as that of the tape - it must withstand and settle at least from autumn to spring. Note: It makes no sense to lay the foundation of TISE for a light compact house - the "caps" of TISE piles normally work in the ground only under a sufficient weight load from the building. Of small-sized houses, only a 2-storey brick or concrete one can create one. The best option for a buried foundation for a compact house is on geo-screws. Geoscrews are a type of shortened screw piles especially for light structures. Unlike conventional ones, geoscrews are not designed for muddy, loose and floating soils. A foundation on geoscrews for a large house will cost significantly more than a tape homemade one, because Geoscrews are not cheap by themselves, but for a small house it is not so scary as few screws are required. Geoscrew for soils of low and medium density, according to the principle of keeping it in the ground, is somewhat similar to a furniture screw-confirm and outwardly also looks like it, see fig.: The smooth head of geo-screws for dense soils is uniformly cylindrical. Those and other geoscrews can be used on soils up to excessively heaving. On the heads of the geoscrews, you can both lay the wooden lower strapping of the structure, and mount the steel grillage. How to build a wooden house on screw piles, see, for example. track. video: The advantages of geoscrews for fast construction on a small site in cramped conditions are enormous: Note: if you are building according to a ready-made project, which indicates the type and characteristics of the foundation, then you need to follow the recommendations of the designers, or consult with them on the subject - is such and such a foundation suitable for such and such soil. Let's get to the very bottom: what kind of simple country house will be cheaper and most likely to build? In ascending order of cost, complexity and time of construction, as well as potentially aesthetic qualities (suitability for design and decoration), the options are located next. way: KUNG is an abbreviation for Unified Body of Normal (Zero) Dimension. In the USSR, unified closed bodies for cars appeared after the Second World War, and thanks to their convenience, the name kung soon became a household name. A country house from a kung, most importantly, is very cheap: a decommissioned kung-shed from ZIL-131 can be found for 30,000 rubles. And the construction boils down to bringing it and putting it on poles, concrete supports of grape trellises, etc., laid on a crushed stone pillow (so that weeds do not germinate and annoying living creatures do not start). The foundation for the box is not needed on any ground in any climate - the box is designed for off-road driving and overturning of the carrier vehicle. The drawback of a kung as a country house is only one: a utilitarian appearance, which any design attempts only stick out. But there are a lot of advantages: It is better to look for a kung for a country house from the ZIL-131 or GAZ-66 cars (see fig.): They have a flat floor and it is easier to put them on posts due to the small or lack of recesses for the wheel arches. Columns (brick can be folded dry) need 6: in the corners in the middle of the long sides. Among other things, kungs from ZIL-131 and GAZ-66 are cheaper and are easier to convert for housing than Ural and KAMAZ trucks. Note: do not take non-standardized "booths" from the ancient ZiS and GAZ-51 -53, their frames are highly susceptible to corrosion and insulation is no good. The width of the box is standard for zero dimensions (2.4 m), and the length can be in the range of 3.5-8.5 m. laying a buried foundation. For a country house, it is preferable to look for a two-grid (two-compartment) kung, on the left in Fig. But any other empty one turns out to be surprisingly spacious, in the center. The kung shed (top left and right in the figure) already provides normal habitability for 3-4 people, but it would be even better to look for a kung from old communication equipment. There, too, there are berths for a crew of 3-4 people, and after some hands-on from such a kung, not a house is obtained, but a candy, at the bottom right in Fig. It is better to remove the right (looking from the entrance to the inside) compartment for the self-contained power supply unit (BEA): a mini-toilet with a shower is placed in its place. Removing half of the shelves above the left BEA compartment, we get a place for a gas stove for 1-2 burners and a small cutting table. The BEA compartment itself is purposely intended for gardening equipment, planting material, etc., and with access also from the outside, through a wide hatch. In addition, there are side windows in the kungs of communication equipment, which cannot be said about all kungs - military cabins. Chalet means hut, but what changes the meaning of this word has undergone with the development of architecture is another matter. A country house-hut is almost as strong as a kung, because its supporting trusses are triangular. A small hut (approx. Up to 4x6 m) can be placed on an unburied foundation on any soil, except for excessively heaving. Materials for a hut house are required 1.5-2 times less than for a bungalow or frame house, and it is easier to build it without experience and with a minimum set of tools. The hut has one more advantage inherited from the ancestors: it fits perfectly with almost any decoration into any landscape, see fig.: There are few disadvantages to the chalet. The hut house retains all its advantages up to approx. 6x9 m, then it becomes more complex and material-intensive than traditional ones. Even in a small hut, one of the sleeping places has to be equipped in the attic, where you have to climb a vertical staircase, that's all. In America and Canada, single huts are quite widespread - shelters for hunters, fishermen, beekeepers, seasonal tenants-sharecroppers (this is the same as a Soviet hectare, who remembers), on the left and in the center in the figure: Arrangement of a single domiac-hut - a shelter and a 3-seater summer cottage But the hut is only 3x3 m in plan and can be a summer cottage for 2-3 people, on the right. In both cases, heating costs are low, because the relative area of the heat loss of the hut is less and it heats up faster due to more active air circulation. If your dacha is commercial inhabited from the first spring warmth to winter cold weather, then the hut is optimal for you. After the kung, if you manage to buy it, who knows, they know the real price of the kung. The construction of a hut house with dimensions up to 6x4 m in plan is carried out step by step. way (this is the so-called airship technology developed by the Germans for the construction of their zeppelins): The hut house will be strong enough and durable only if the work on its construction is carried out in the specified sequence. Probably, this is the reason that few houses build huts - it is easier to work according to the principle “take more, throw further”. Drawings of a house-hut 3x3 m for two or three are given in Fig.: The inset at the top left shows the construction of facade frames for a house up to 4x6 m. The material, as well as intermediate frames, is a 150x75 timber. Firstly, on the front frames, 2 ties are added to the tightening (intermediate frames without them). Secondly, instead of a ridge run, a ridge beam of the same section is used. Thirdly, the frames, except at the corners, are fastened by the middle and upper straps (longitudinal stiffening ties) from the same timber. Longitudinal and transverse ties are connected by a cut-in half-tree. Those. on the example of a 4x6 m house, it is already clear how the complexity of construction and the material consumption of a hut house grow with an increase in its size. Note: on the lower screed, 2 more ends of the 100x75 timber are visible on the sides of the window. Internal partitions rest on them. The door frame on the other facade extends upwards until tightened and is made of 75x150 timber; the bottom screed of this facade is split. If this house is without a basement, the window frame is performed in a similar way. In general, a bungalow is an unheated one-room country house with an extensive covered veranda, which is structurally integral to it. For a summer cottage of a weekend in a rather warm area, the "generally accepted" bungalow house is optimal, because spacious, well ventilated, not overheated by the Sun, and in construction it is not more difficult than a frame house, but less material intensive. However, it is not well known to construction professionals outside the tropics these days that bungalows are also a form of construction technology. Bungalow huts built on it (another name is hakale) can still be found in the forest wilds of Russia, the north of the United States and all of Canada. Some are over 200 years old, but most are still habitable. A house built using bungalow technology is easily recognizable by its 2-layer sheathing of vertical planks; the outer row is discontinuous, see fig. on right. Bungalow as a technology of wooden construction combines elements of half-timbered construction and frame with working cladding. Compared to both, the bungalow technology has a trace. advantages: The disadvantages of construction using bungalow technology are, firstly, increased requirements for the experience and accuracy of the employee (see below). Secondly, there is some complexity in the design of the openings: the outer sheathing boards must be cut in place to fit the platbands, otherwise pockets will form - trapping moisture. Bungalows are generally more popular as shelter houses due to better habitability. Bungalows don't have to go upstairs to sleep and lean out to dine. The structure of a bungalow-type refuge house is shown in the figure: Drawings of a mini bungalow house - shelters The foundation, of course, is not necessarily a strip foundation (in this case, an unburied strip foundation, NZLF), but any that is suitable for local conditions. If columnar or pile, then you need 12 supports: 3 on the sides along the veranda and 4 (under each vertical post) on the others. This house can be extended in length up to 3-3.5 m. Then, if you do not lengthen the acc. veranda, you can fence off the toilet, and the attic in any case remains free for property and supplies. A "real" bungalow for outdoor recreation with dimensions of 4x5.875 m in plan is, of course, more complicated (see next figure), just like a frame house (see below). There is no attic (this is a characteristic feature of "real" recreational bungalows). The requirements for the foundation are the same, but for soils up to medium porous inclusive; prev. the option is also well worth it on highly heaving soils. The main features of a bungalow as a building technology are listed above. In addition: the power frame is assembled from a bar from 150x150 without jibs. Yes Yes! The rigidity of the structure is given by the sheathing of vertical boards. Plywood and OSB are of little use because for each joint of sheets, backing racks and extensions are needed. Bungalow construction schemes are given in the figure: Rafter floor structures are not shown conventionally, they are ordinary. Pay attention, on the left in the figure: the triple corners of the frame are assembled by a cut in half a tree and into a thorn, and the spikes of the struts are located on the inner side of the corners. This is an indispensable condition for the strength of the structure: the elements of the load-bearing frame must cling to each other at the corners and without steel fasteners. Although it is necessary, see the center in fig. It is unacceptable to use steel corners, linings, etc. innovations in this case! For the Old Testament "oakiness" you have to pay with labor. The planking boards must be oriented with "humps" (bulges of annual layers) as shown on the right in the figure: inner inward, outer outward. The outer boards should be slightly narrower than the inner ones, then in the process of warping the wood, the sheathing will be compacted and squeeze the frame. With any other arrangement, the "humpbacks" will split and the whole house will weaken. All boards are attached to the frame along short (end) edges in threes (not in pairs!) Of nails or self-tapping screws. Edge boards are also attached along the long edges to the corner posts with the same fasteners in a row or with a snake (zigzag) with a pitch of 100-120 mm. Outer boards are attached to the inner boards along short edges by pairs of fasteners; along long ones - in a row with the same step. Bungalow power frame assembly is a very important stage of work. And laborious, tk. staples with a carpenter's hammer cannot be hammered in, and self-tapping screws 12x300 cannot be tightened with a screwdriver. In old structures, instead of self-tapping screws, oak pins were placed in wedging. The frame of the house using the bungalow technology is assembled on the trail. order: A frame mini-house does not have any features in comparison with a large residential one; a diagram of its device is given in Fig.: The construction procedure is described in detail and with illustrations in many sources. You can also watch a video about the construction of a "classic" frame house 6x4 m:
The complexity and cost of building a frame house is higher than all those described above. The attention, knowledge and accuracy required for the construction of a hut and bungalow do not count: they do not require costs and do not take time. But the frame mini-house also has an undeniable advantage: a simple shape with vertical walls and smooth paneling make it suitable for a wide variety of design delights, see fig. Also, the structure of the frame house is very plastic. On the one hand, she forgives the rather gross mistakes of novice builders. On the other hand, it gives creative amateurs a certain scope for experimentation. See, for example, the video about the construction of a small frame shelter house:
It is only necessary to add to this plot that the comments of the audience about the insulation are fair. Since it is impossible to "drive" the dew point outward once and for all, and there are no massive walls where it could "walk", insulating materials in such structures must be used to prevent condensation from falling out in the insulation layer and further inside: EPS or cellulose insulation (ecowool) ... The roof rail (all, as it is, its supporting structure) of a small house also has a special feature. It is determined by its small size, and, as a consequence of the excessive rigidity of the structure, as well as the absence of a load-bearing partition (internal capital wall) in it (forgive clericalism). To hold the latter, a fully connected foundation is required; at least - a tape of normal depth. Rafter structures (in this case, this is the same roof girder) are, as you know, hanging (item 1a in the figure) and layered (item 1b): In the first, the rack of the truss truss rests on the transverse beam-tie, and in the layered one on the load-bearing partition; split screed. It is technically possible to make a load-bearing partition in a small house, but it is not justified in any sense, including ergonomic - habitability. Therefore, the trusses of small houses are made only hanging. As for the methods of assembling the truss structure of a small house, they can be any of the known, pos. 3 and 4. Choose whichever you like according to skill, availability of materials and desire. The minimum standard size of boards for a house up to 6x6 m is 40x130, a ridge bar - 100x75 and a Mauerlat - from 150x75. In a bungalow house and a frame Mauerlat, the upper strapping beam can directly serve. The pleasure of owning your own suburban area is tripled if there is a country house on it. Indeed, in this case, you can not be limited only to seasonal work and cooking barbecue outdoors in the warm season. Today the construction of summer cottages is gaining momentum. Moreover, houses "dacha construction" are erected from a variety of materials: from stone to timber frames and panels from chipboard and fiberboard. And in our material, we will consider how to build a country house with our own hands and at the same time perform all the work with maximum productivity and economic benefit. The construction of summer cottages is a task no less important than the construction of a residential capital house. Indeed, the durability and strength of the building will depend on how well the installation will be performed (even if it is a frame technology). Let's consider some types of materials that are most often used for the installation of country houses, and we will understand what is better to build a temporary hut in the country from: In order to facilitate the construction of a country house did not bring unpleasant surprises later, it is necessary to comply with some requirements and recommendations regarding the installation of the house. So, we are building a dacha with our own hands, taking into account the following rules / recommendations: Important: for a country house with your own hands, it is better to choose the highest point on the site. Thus, melt and rainwater will not cause trouble for the new summer cottage which we are building. But if the plot is very small, and you want to build a good house, then in this case they prefer a two-story house with bedrooms located in the upper part. The kitchen and living room are being assembled on the ground floor. To simplify the construction process as much as possible, we recommend building a one-story house in a country house with a gable roof and a small veranda. And below is attached step-by-step instructions for performing the work. Advice: if there is absolutely no desire to tinker with construction, then a novice master can simply order a ready-made modular house, which is simply assembled already on the site according to the prepared foundation. For those who do not know how to build a summer cottage, our step-by-step instructions with a detailed description of all the points will be useful. It will start with the preparation of the foundation. But first, we will prepare all the necessary materials for the construction of summer cottages. So, we need: So, in the recommendation "where to start building a summer cottage", the first item is the installation of the foundation. A lightweight type of basis - columnar is suitable for a frame house. This version of the foundation device will not only significantly save your money, but also serve as a reliable support for the construction. Important: the strip foundation is mounted using the same technology, only in this case it is not necessary to dig holes, but a trench along the perimeter of the house, the summer house of which we are building. As soon as the pillars of the foundation dry out, you can start building the frame of the house. Namely, its lower platform. It is she who will become the launching pad for the walls and roof. Therefore, for the platform, you can take a bar of a larger section - 100x150 mm. Important: when doing work in the country with our own hands, do not forget to treat the tree with antiseptics and fire retardants. This will increase the resistance of the wood to burning or decay. It will also scare away rodents. Important: the width of the film overlap must be at least 20 cm. It remains to mount windows and doors to the made house. They are installed on special props made of wood, adjusting and controlling the level of the blocks. All gaps between the frame and frames are foamed with polyurethane foam. After a day, the excess foam is cut off, and the remaining space is sheathed with plasterboard or any other building material for subsequent finishing. Important: the doors are best installed completely with a frame and sashes. Thus, it will be possible to align the bearing opening for the block as much as possible. The interior decoration of the house can be done using drywall and then pasting it with wallpaper. Also on the gypsum board, you can perform plastering, painting or cladding. And the water supplied to the house will make your stay in it even more comfortable. It will be pleasant and comfortable to be here at any time of the year. A house built using this technology will last for 30 years or more. Now it remains to notify relatives and friends of the invitation to a fragrant barbecue. By the way, if you do not know how much it costs to build a frame house, then we hasten to inform you that such a construction, taking into account the purchase of all materials, will cost about 10 thousand cu. If you don't know what to build from, and want to make a house from scrap materials that remain on the site, then such a house will cost 1.5 times cheaper.
Perhaps it is difficult to imagine a home environment without various interior items, including upholstered furniture that create coziness in the house. After a long winter, we are all looking forward to the opening of the summer cottage season. Seedling boxes are an indispensable attribute of this event. How to make a wood stove from a pair of old car rims for your summer kitchen in a couple of hours? If you need an extra bed in the country, then just make a bed with your own hands. The crop must not only be collected and stored for as long as possible, but also so that it is convenient to get and use your fruits. Comfort in the country depends on many factors: the availability of light, water, necessary buildings. But what if there is no toilet and shower at the dacha? Staying on such a site becomes uncomfortable and this problem must be solved. If you are looking for an original bench option for your patio, a secluded corner of the garden or terrace, then this DIY bench for two with a small table is just what you need. Easy to manufacture and does not require expensive materials. Drawings, photos, videos and 3D models to help you. Just a necessary thing in the dacha economy. Don't want your back to hurt after working in the garden? Then make a simple and comfortable bench, which will become your indispensable assistant in any summer cottage business from the garden to renovation. This time I want to offer you one more craft for giving, namely to make a simple garden chair. In the article you will find instructions with drawings, as well as photos of similar chairs already made. No special tools or expensive components - everything is done quickly and easily. If you need a bench in the garden that is simple, light and simple to perform, and also does not require large material costs, then you will certainly like this solution. Sometimes, during a hot day, you want to sit in the shade and take a break from endless work in the garden, and of course it is best to do this on a comfortable bench. Summer is the time for outdoor activities and a picnic in the country is a common thing. But, often there is not enough space for a large company. And here is such a dacha building - a large table specially for a picnic, now you no longer have to figure out where to organize a feast at the dacha in the summer and place guests in the open air. We live in the Altai foothills. We arrived in a small village near Belokurikha and bought a plot. We really liked it here - clean air, beautiful generous nature. On the site of the buildings - a shed for tools and a toilet. I really wanted to have a place to rest, protection from the summer heat and rain, and where you can rest. It is very easy to make simple and functional crafts and structures from plastic pipes and pipeline fittings, which can be bought at any plumbing store. Low cost, ease of assembly and durability distinguish PVC pipes from metal or wooden materials. Let's take a look at some of them. Bamboo supports or climbing trellises are available at specialist gardening stores. But it's not cheap, especially when you need several. We all want to eat "clean" food, grown without the use of poisons and chemical fertilizers. But what should be done? Either the Colorado potato beetle eats potatoes, or aphids overpower the plants, or other “harmful” insects “eat” what is meant for our loved ones. There is a way to attract pest exterminators to your site - to build houses for such insects. The majority of residents of cities and megalopolises have a summer cottage - a calm atmosphere and closeness to nature make it a desirable place to relax during weekends or vacations. However, before you can spend time at your country residence, the site needs to be landscaped. Without a roof over your head and a minimum of amenities, resting on bare ground would be a rather dubious pleasure. If you decide to quickly prepare a summer cottage for the vacation season, while spending a minimum of financial and physical resources, then temporary lightweight buildings will be an ideal option for you. In this article, you will be provided with step-by-step instructions on how to build a country house and outbuildings in the country with your own hands. As mentioned above, the construction of a country house is best carried out according to a simplified scheme in order to facilitate construction work as much as possible. Below we will look at the main stages of building a building with a lightweight structure. Do-it-yourself buildings for summer cottages, it is best to build on a shallow one. The low weight of the structure makes it possible not to go deep into the ground, thereby significantly reducing the consumption of concrete. The order of work is as follows: After the foundation has completely dried, you can start building the walls. The construction of a country house with your own hands is most often carried out from light materials - foam concrete, polystyrene concrete or expanded clay concrete blocks, which have a relatively small mass and good thermal insulation properties. As a mixture for laying blocks, you can use both a special glue for masonry and a homemade cement compound. In the first case, a thin seam is formed, but the price of this product is not always acceptable. The cement mixture, at a lower cost, creates a thicker joint, since its structure is less plastic. The blocks are laid according to the following principle: Note! Note! The formation of the roof begins with the installation of load-bearing beams for the ceiling, which are spaced one meter apart. After laying the carriers, a black ceiling is formed - boards or plywood are stuffed, on which insulation is covered or poured. Boards are laid along the entire perimeter of the building, which will serve as fasteners for the rafters. Rafters are installed in increments of no more than one meter. Then, transverse strips are mounted, which will serve as the basis for the roof - the gap between them is determined based on the type of material. After that, you can start laying slate, ondulin, tin, etc. (See also article After acquiring a suburban area for a summer residence, the question of how to build a country house with your own hands necessarily becomes relevant. Well, to build it yourself is quite possible, unless, of course, a huge "palace" is conceived, requiring the involvement of construction equipment and a team of professionals. Usually compact buildings are chosen for giving, but, nevertheless, the house should have everything you need to rest - rooms, kitchen, veranda. The latter will become a favorite place for the evening pastime all family. It is very important to make the country house cozy and comfortable, so you need to think over all the nuances of its arrangement. The optimal material for a summer cottage is wood, and the principle of construction is a frame structure. Of course, the first thing that needs to be done is to determine the place and size of the building, draw up a project, and plan further work. The size of the future house largely depends on the area of the summer cottage, the number of family members and the material capabilities of the owners. If you correctly plan, draw up a successful project and choose an inexpensive but high-quality material for construction, you can save space, money and time. Most often, a country house has a size of 5.0 × 6.0 or 4.0 × 6.0 m. Buildings of a larger area are erected much less often, and, mainly, in those cases when they are planned to be operated all year round. But this will, rather, not be a country house, but a full-fledged country house. The layout of the location of the house may have to be carried out on the basis of the requirements that can be established by the board of the gardening partnership, therefore, when purchasing, you need to find out about such nuances in advance. Most often, the following distances are required: Usually, the highest is chosen for the installation of a country house. place on the site in which water will not collect when snow melts or from heavy rains. The increased humidity under the house will never benefit any building material, but it will always have a negative impact on the overall strength and durability of the structure. Most often, the following technologies for its construction are chosen for the construction of country houses: frame-panel construction, log cabins, walls made of blocks or bricks. For summer cottages, projects of one-story houses with closed or open verandas or terraces are predominantly chosen. Often the building has an attic space used for storing garden tools and other things that are seemingly unnecessary in everyday use, but which can always come in handy in the country. However, it also happens that in some projects the attic floor beams are absent altogether, and then the roof slopes also play the role of a ceiling. If the family is large, and the area of the plot is not as large as we would like, then you can plan a two-story house that occupies very little space at the base. In this case, the first floor can be used as a living room, terrace and kitchen, and on the second floor, cozy sleeping places for the whole family can be arranged. Not at all necessary to build a full-fledged second floor in a dacha structure, since the attic superstructure can also perfectly fulfill its role. Having finished it with natural materials, you can create a wonderful healthy dacha atmosphere there. Country houses are mainly used during the warm season, from the arrival of spring to autumn. Therefore, they do not require reinforced insulation of walls and roofs, but devices for heating rooms should still be provided - in case of cold nights or a drop in temperature in unstable weather. Usually, electrical appliances are used as heaters, for example, convectors or infrared film radiators, but sometimes the owners even prefer to install fireplaces or cast iron heating and cooking stoves. By the way, if the construction of a real fireplace or brick stove is planned, then they must be included in the project being prepared. There are also ready-made options for country houses, sold in complete disassembled form, which you just need to deliver to the site and assemble. Any such set of parts must be accompanied by detailed instructions, which set out the procedure for carrying out work, the main technological methods and connection diagrams of individual elements and assemblies. For the landlord who has basic construction skills, it will not be difficult to assemble such a country house on your own. The main advantage of this option can be called the fact that often the kit already includes everything necessary for the electrical network of the building, for its ventilation system, and even for the installation of a water supply system.
Having decided on the approximate plan of the future house, you need to choose the material for its construction. This choice will determine not only the appearance of the building itself, but also the comfort of staying in it, as well as the costs of its construction. However, wooden houses have always been built, and many of them have stood for centuries. Today, there are special fire retardant impregnations on sale that significantly reduce the risk of fire in wooden buildings. And in general - the most important thing here is not the material, but the human factor - it is the people's neglect of the elementary requirements of fire safety in the overwhelming majority of cases that causes a fire. This option can be called optimal, since a foundation made of moisture-resistant materials will create optimal conditions for the construction of walls made of wood, thus it will become a reliable foundation for the house. It is this last option that is worth considering, since it is the most popular of all types of country houses. If there is no desire to mess around with calculations, then it is better to purchase a prefabricated ready-made model of a house that has a certain area, for which you will only need to prepare a place. In all other cases, you will need to purchase building materials. Their type, size, volume, total number - all depending on the size of the planned building, which is determined by the project. Foundation material For any type of foundation, you will need the following materials: - sand, crushed stone, cement; - third-rate board and timber for formwork; - brick or concrete blocks; - waterproofing material (roofing material); - expanded clay of the middle fraction. Material for walls and roof Since wood was chosen for the construction of the walls, then, starting from this, other materials will be selected: - bars and boards of different sizes, depending on the design parameters; - fasteners - nails, screws, bolts, studs; - corners of various configurations, metal plates - for fastening knots; - vapor barrier film; - insulation - mineral wool, ecowool or expanded clay; - to cover the roof, it is better to choose a light material - ondulin or corrugated board. After the installation site of the future house is determined, the materials are purchased, you can proceed to the arrangement of the foundation. True, to begin with, you still have to decide on its type. Even with the construction of such a small and light building as a wooden country house, one cannot do without a foundation. In this case, one of two types is ideal for these purposes - this is a columnar and strip foundation. Which one to choose depends on the preferences of the builder. How to build it correctly, you can find out with all the details by following this link to the corresponding page of our portal. However, strip foundations are still very popular with individual developers. This option is convenient in that it allows you to make a basement under the house, however, for this, the walls of the foundation will have to be raised above the soil surface by 700 ÷ 800 mm. described in detail in the article, which can be found on our portal by following the link offered. If a columnar foundation is chosen, it is recommended to remove the topsoil by 150-200 mm from the site, which will be located under the house and around it by 500 ÷ 600 mm. Then fill the resulting pit with a layer of sand of 30 ÷ 40 mm, which should be tamped. A layer is laid on top of the sand cushion medium fraction crushed stone and also compacted, and the remaining space must be covered with expanded clay of the middle fraction. All these procedures are done so that small rodents cannot get close to the house. They do not tolerate expanded clay (especially fine), since it contains a large amount of dust and has a loose surface. To protect the house from the penetration of large rodents or other uninvited guests from the animal world, it is advisable to close the space under the house with a metal mesh with cells no larger than 10 mm. The frame house can be placed both on a columnar and on a strip foundation. Erection always starts from the base, which must be reliable waterproofed two or three layers of laid roofing material. In order for the floor to be reliable, it is necessary to take high-quality beams of the desired section for the frame. If funds allow, it is better to choose wooden elements not according to the "lower limit" of sizes, but by laying a certain margin in their section. The table shows the optimal dimensions of the timber for a frame house: Another option is to lift the frame directly into place. For example, if the house is being erected independently, without assistants, then it will be very difficult to lift the finished frame from the shade to the height of the strapping alone, install it evenly and temporarily fix it until it is finally fixed. This means that you will have to expose each of the bars separately. The bars are fixed to the lower harness using powerful corners that are able to keep them in an upright position. It is best to use not nails for fastening, but a self-tapping screw - the difference in price is not so significant, but the quality and reliability of the assembly is incomparably higher. Then, when the upper strapping bar is installed and fixed on all other vertical posts, the section with the window opening is fixed in the space left for it. The installation of the floor can be carried out immediately after the outer wall cladding, but only if the roof is covered with a roof on the same day. It is highly undesirable for a freshly laid floor covering to get wet if it suddenly rains at night. Therefore, it is better to first resolve the issue with the roof, and then calmly engage in all other construction activities inside the house. A few words need to be said about the types of rafter systems, since, moving on to the construction of a roof, you need to have a general idea of this, to know which structure is better to choose. There are two types of rafter systems - hanging and layered. Hanging system
The hanging rafter system differs in that it is arranged only on external load-bearing walls and has no other supports. It is perfect for erection over a small suburban building. In order to relieve the load on the wooden walls and on the foundation, the hanging rafters are tightened with a tightening. The hanging structure itself consists of a transverse beam, which also performs an overlapping function, and can at the same time be a frame for hemming the ceiling, as well as rafter legs that form roof slopes. Nasal system
The overhead system is installed if the house, in addition to the external walls, has internal capital partitions, which will become additional points of support. Such a scheme can also be used in the construction of the roof of a country house, if it has a large area and its rooms are separated by walls built on the foundation. By installing this system, the load on the load-bearing side walls becomes weaker, so that fewer retaining elements can be used. It is great for roof structures that will be used as living quarters. The beams are laid exactly above the vertical posts of the wall frame. In order for them to fit snugly on the upper strapping belt, grooves are cut out at their edges. The size of the grooves can be calculated using the formula shown in the figure. Beams are fixed to the frame structure of the walls with the help of nails or self-tapping screws, and in addition they are sometimes fixed on both sides with metal corners. After completing the installation of the overlapping beams, you can proceed to building the roof truss system. For safety reasons, a temporary boardwalk is laid on the floor beams to ensure comfortable movement along the plane of the attic during the installation of rafters. The roof rafter system can be mounted using a different sequence of fixing its elements: The cross-section of the beams or logs used for rafter legs must be strictly observed - depending on the the length of the rafter between the two support points, and depending on the steps between adjacent pairs of rafters It should be noted that the attachment point of the rafters in its lower part will depend on the angle at which they are fastened on the ridge, and how long they have. If the rafter is long enough and protrudes beyond the bearing walls, then a cut is cut on it, with which it will be installed on the strapping bar (). An example of such a cut is shown in the picture: If the rafter ends at the edge of the load-bearing wall, then its lower edge is cut at right angles to the Mauerlat, and the leg itself can be fixed on it using a special fastening plate, sliding support, angle, bracket, nails or long screws. If the house is very small, then after fixing the rafters to the harness, tying them with a ridge bar or board, you will most likely not have to install additional supporting elements. Detailed information about the exact one can be obtained from a special publication of our portal by following the recommended link: For the installation of additional, reinforcing elements of the rafter system, the material can be selected in accordance with the recommendations indicated in the table: Fasteners for rafters After the rafters and additional elements form the roof slopes, you can proceed to the installation of the roofing subsystem. The film is laid perpendicular to the rafters, starting from the lower, eaves of the roof. The overlap between two adjacent strips must be at least 200 mm. If a soft roof is chosen to cover the roof, then instead of lathing slats, the slopes are covered with solid plywood, and then with waterproofing sheets of roofing material, which is overlapped by 150 ÷ 200 mm and glued together with bituminous mastic. Another option is to use soft bituminous decorative tiles, which are laid using a similar technology. Some types of roofing materials have a strictly specified installation pattern in the direction, which cannot be changed. This must be indicated in the instructions attached to them. Also, for any of the types of sheet roofing materials, the amount of overlap in the direction of the slope (usually 150 ÷ 200 mm) and the number of waves (embossed protrusions) in the horizontal direction, along the roof, are determined. For the lining, a special profile is fixed along the perimeter of the pediment triangle, into which the panels prepared and cut at the desired angle will be installed. Installation is usually done symmetrically - from the middle rack to one side and then the other side - then the sheathing will turn out to be even and neat. By the way, mount the lining, Besides, you can horizontally, herringbone, or come up with a more complex pattern. Detailed information about the technology can be found in the article posted on our website by going through link.
Now, having finished with the external finishing of the roof and being sure that the rain will no longer fall inside the country house, you can proceed to the installation of windows and doors, insulation, flooring and wall cladding. Then, after checking the correct installation, the frames are attached to the wall frame with metal strips. The remaining gaps between the frame and the frame beams are filled with polyurethane foam. After it dries, the excess is cut off, and platbands are installed around the windows on the outside of the wall, which will close the unsightly appearance of the gaps and give neatness to the overall appearance of the house. Exposing the door frame, if necessary, to achieve a clear vertical position, put wedges (inserts) from wooden slats. The door frame is fixed to the frame in the same way as the window frames, using metal strips, and the gap is filled with foam. Having installed windows and doors in all, you can proceed to the installation of the floor. To begin with, the temporary flooring from the boards (if any) is removed from the lower frame, and then the sub-floor needs to be installed. Heat insulating materials When the floor is completely ready, the walls of the house are insulated and sheathed from the inside. If the building will be used only in the warm season, then the insulation will still not hurt - it will work as an insulator of premises from heating in extreme heat. Therefore, it is recommended to lay the thermal insulation layer not only in the walls, but also in the ceiling, and if it is absent, place the insulation along the inner slopes of the roof. That is why mineral wool is most often used as a heater - after tight laying between the racks, it will straighten out, completely filling the entire space. The material is usually selected so that the thickness of the mats and the thickness of the frame posts are the same. If the ceiling is sheathed from the side of the house with plasterboard or clapboard, then we must not forget that you cannot step on it, since the sheathing will not withstand the weight of a person. It is necessary to move carefully along the floor beams. The last stages of arranging a country house are installation work on the veranda and on the porch. If a place has been left for the veranda on the frame lying on the foundation, then a board is laid on this space to cover the floor (material for open areas is used), a fence is installed and a canopy is mounted. If the foundation is raised high enough above the ground, then a porch is also attached to it. Building a country house with your own hands is a completely doable task, but it will be quite difficult to do without helpers. Therefore, it is best to seek help from a knowledgeable master who has experience in such work, will always give useful advice and show how certain nodes are correctly mounted in the structure of the house. You can "mobilize" relatives and friends - it is possible that a knowledgeable person will be among them.
Foundation
Not buried
Recessed
Geoscrews
Video: installing a frame house
What kind of house to build?
When not up to frills
Chalet
How to build a chalet
Bungalow and ... bungalow
Bungalow like bungalow
Bungalow as technology
Wireframes
Video: country house 4 × 6 using frame technology
Video: DIY mini-frame house
In conclusion about the roof
Choosing a building material
A few rules for quality construction
We build a summer cottage: the stages of installation
Frame installation
The roof of the frame house
Final finishing of the house
How to make a soft ottoman
These include, for example, soft ottomans, which are used both as additional seating and as an element of decor in a room or hallway.Seedling table
How to simplify and facilitate the work with plants at their summer cottage? You just need to make a small and light table for working with seedlings. Drawings and 3D model to help you.Autodisk wood stove
You will need a welding machine and a grinder.
Reading the details ...We make a double bed 2.0 by 1.6 meters
In this article you will find a detailed description of the assembly of the bed frame, dimensional drawings, photo and 3D model.Storage box for vegetables
In this article, we offer you instructions on how to make a convenient box for storing a harvest of vegetables and fruits with your own hands. Dimensional drawings and photographs to help you.DIY toilet and shower in the country
Bench with a table
Utility bench
Chair for your garden
In this article you will find clear assembly instructions, drawings, 3D model and photos of finished versions of this bench.Brutal garden bench
Today I want to tell you how I built a simple garden bench from the materials left over from the construction of the house.Picnic table in the country
Wicker gazebo
Therefore, it is much more pleasant and profitable to make such a support in the form of a trellis lattice for vine plants with your own hands.Summer cottage construction
Preparation of the base
Walling
When preparing a homemade mortar for masonry, sand must be sieved through a fine mesh to remove stones, otherwise building a country house with your own hands can be very complicated.
In one day, you can lay out no more than five rows of masonry, since, with a larger amount, there is a risk of collapse.Roof deck
Proe kt of a small country house
In any case, the first steps are drafting
Video: a small neat country house that lives up to its name
What type of house should you choose?
Stages of building a country house
Materials for building a country house
Prices for various types of timber
The foundation of the country house
Small fraction expanded clay is an excellent remedy for rodents
Erection of a frame structure
For a country house, the best choice is a frame structure
Roof construction and roofing
Types of truss systems
Floor beams
An important structural element - floor beams
Installation of the rafter system
Maximum permissible rafter leg length (in mm) The pitch of the rafters (in mm)
1100
1400
1750
2100
Rafter leg section (in mm)
cross-section bars logs Ø cross-section bars logs Ø cross-section bars logs Ø cross-section bars logs Ø
up to 3000 80 × 100 100
80 × 100 130
90 × 100 150
90 × 160 160
up to 3600 80 × 130 130
80 × 160 160
80 × 180 180
90 × 180 180
up to 4300 80 × 160 160
80 × 180 180
90 × 180 180
100 × 200 200
up to 5000 80 × 180 180
80 × 200 200
100 × 200 200
-
-
up to 5800 80 × 200 200
100 × 200 200
-
-
-
-
up to 6500 100 × 200 200
120 × 220 240
-
-
-
-
Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters
Roofing system
Installation of windows and doors
The door is best installed in a block - together with the frame and door leaf
Installation and floor insulation
With the floor - finished!
Prices for thermal insulation materials
Additional thermal insulation measures
House extensions
Video: construction of a country house using frame technology