A few details about the laying of brick fence posts. Brick columns: calculation
Mankind has been using such a building material as brick for a long time, perhaps exactly as much as he can remember. Brick is called a universal and unified stone, artificially produced for use in construction. You can build anything you want out of bricks.
Brick is the most versatile and sought-after building material.
The popularity of brick does not weaken - to this day it is one of the most sought-after materials for construction.
Brick posts are very often used as a support for a gate or fence.
Surely it is impossible to find such a summer resident who would not use bricks when constructing buildings on his site, when landscaping the house. Therefore, it will not be superfluous to get acquainted with some of the nuances. Pillars and piers made of bricks can be elements of building frames inside or outside. In this case, their role is to serve as a support for the elements located above them. Since the load falling on them is quite large, the requirements for them are also increased. For example, laying on a multi-row system is prohibited for execution - in this case, it is impossible to ensure the solidity of the elements and the required strength. For the same reason, "waste" masonry will not work either.
Waste masonry is unsuitable for a multi-row system.
Most often, an element such as a brick column is used as a support for a fence, gate posts, gates, as part of a fence. In this case, the material of the fence itself can be anything. It can be pillars made of silicate bricks, as well as from any other - at the request of the owner. Laying brick columns must certainly be a bricklayer who has experience in such work. Pillars made of brick, plain or facing, are laid out in a rectangular or square shape.
Mortar for masonry
Method for preparing a mortar for brickwork: a dry mixture of cement and sand is closed with water.
For use a simple sand-cement mortar - the ratio of cement and sand is 1: 4-6. Its main purpose is to prevent the displacement of one brick relative to another. When laying, he will experience a load of displacement, compression, but not rupture. For this reason, an overly thick solution should not be made. For greater plasticity, sometimes a part of clay or lime is added to it. Thanks to this additive, the fluidity of the solution increases. We put the mixture carefully, trying not to put too much. Lime can be replaced with liquid soap or washing powder, but such a composition should not be used if a hollow brick is chosen for masonry - too much mortar flows into the cracks of the brick, due to which the thermal insulation properties deteriorate significantly.
It does not make sense to make a lot of the solution, as it will be consumed in small portions.
Prepare, as a rule, in this way: a dry mixture is made from cement and sand, which is closed with water. The solution will be consumed in small portions, so it makes no sense to immediately prepare it in a larger volume than 20-50 liters. Experienced builders do this: they take a small amount of dry mix and knead it with water, and after spending it, they prepare the next batch. But with a large upcoming volume of masonry, which is also performed by several people, a concrete mixer can also be used to prepare the mortar.
Main tools:
- trowel - with its help, a solution will be applied or its excess, which was squeezed out when fitting the brick, is selected. At the same time, the laid brick itself is adjusted by the back of the handle;
- kirochka - a hammer with a sharpened striker. It is used to chip or hew a brick;
- grinder - it has recently begun to be used more and more often. Using a stone disc, you can cut or cut a brick much more accurately;
- plumb;
- building level;
- cords and other auxiliary tools, if necessary.
Problems that arise when laying
The main problems with bricklaying are laying bricks at the same level and in a straight line and removing vertical right angles.
Basically, novice masons have the following problems when laying posts: laying bricks at the same level and in a straight line, as well as drawing vertical right angles. With the main thing - the correct laying of the first row. In order to get a straight row, laying is done using a long rule, a stretched cord or a flat rail. At the same time, the brick should not reach 2-3 mm to the guide, so that the mortar cannot press on it. To ensure that the laying is horizontal, each of the bricks must be checked with a level. Bricks are also checked in pairs with neighboring ones. If the masonry is front, this will be especially important for her.
Preliminary work with the foundation
Pits for the foundation for brick pillars should be 1 m deep and with sufficient width.
Brick columns should not be erected without a foundation. Their weight is quite significant, and the soil will not be able to withstand it for a long time - it will certainly begin to wash out, settle, the support will quickly collapse. But a properly prepared foundation will help the pillars stand quietly for more than a decade. To begin with, dig holes 1 m deep and with sufficient width. The bottom of the foundation should be made wider than the top - this will help the structure become more stable. Particular attention should be paid to the pillars near the openings - it is there that the heaviest loads are. A layer of rubble or stones is poured at the bottom of the pit, a metal pipe is installed, aligned vertically and poured with concrete. The foundation is left to stand - it will take at least a week, and preferably a month. If the foundation has not stood enough, it may crack during masonry, which will subsequently lead to premature destruction of the structure.
Laying brick columns
Brick pillars are a column, freestanding or standing on a base such as a strip foundation.
A brick column is a column that stands alone or stands on a base such as a strip foundation. Finishing material, that is, lining, anything can be chosen: from natural or artificial stone to tiles. But in most cases, the columns are simply constructed from facing bricks, choosing the most suitable texture and color scheme for the design of the fence. A brick column is laid out around the supporting base. Usually it is a steel pipe with a square or rectangular section or a channel. Metal structures are treated with an anti-corrosion protective agent and painted with enamel. Bricks should be laid around this base, checking the correctness of the masonry using a level and plumb line.
Brickwork for columns is usually made with a thickness of . The material, as a rule, is chosen hollow, made as a facing or, as it is also called, facial. Such columns have an excellent presentable appearance, do not need plastering and are quite practical for operation. The solution with which the columns of the facing material are laid should only be of a high grade of strength.
There are quite a few types of brickwork. Together with the method of jointing, you can get different textures in order to emphasize the grandeur and splendor of structures with these elements and turn brick columns into a wonderful architectural creation.
For the construction of fences, poles should be placed at intervals of no more than 3 meters. If necessary, structural elements are attached to the poles - for this, at a calculated distance, metal T-shaped parts must be laid in the masonry of the poles. But the most reliable and correct way to attach the log to the pillars is considered to be welding the log through a certain number of rows of brickwork. Where the logs should go inside the posts, the brick is cut with a diamond blade. The first mortgage is embedded at a height of 15 cm from the level of the base. Next, the brick is laid to the desired height, after which the middle of the side to which the fence will be attached is determined. In this place, a pencil mark must be made on the brick and a groove must be cut with a grinder for the entire width of the brick. The brick is sawn in width only by a third. After that, a mortgage plate is inserted into the groove in such a way that only a small part protrudes outward, and in the internal cavity of the column the plate would reach the pipe.
The next row - one of the bricks is sawn in the same way and covers the mortgage. The second is done exactly in the middle of the pillar, the top one is placed 15 cm lower than the top row of bricks. Sawing must be done carefully, in exact accordance with the dimensions, so that the mortgages can fit into the grooves as tightly as possible.
When squeezing out the excess solution, it must be immediately removed with a trowel before it has time to dry. The upper part of the masonry is covered with a special cap - to protect the concrete from washing out. Now the brick column is almost ready. The last thing to do is to process the masonry seams.
A three-row bricklaying system is used for piers with a width of up to 1 meter.
- Each brick laid in place is certainly checked vertically and horizontally - this is done using a level and a plumb line. The reinforcing mesh should cover all the bricks, but should not go beyond the masonry.
- If the walls are adjacent to the pillars, they must be connected with the help of a shtraba released from the pillar or steel rods laid inside. - masonry is carried out in half a brick because it does not carry any load other than its own weight. The only requirement that is presented to her is external attractiveness.
- Walls with a width of up to 1 meter should be laid out according to a three-row binding system, and with a width of more than 4 bricks, they can be laid out according to a multi-row system. With a three-row system, in order for quarters to form in the piers, quarters must be laid in the first of the butt rows, and halves in the spoon rows.
Bricklaying
Jointing is needed so that the masonry seams look smoother, and the columns themselves are neater.
The posts should look attractive and neat, and for this it is necessary that the masonry joints look as even as possible. The stitching helps a lot for this. Before starting work, with a wire brush or a simple broom, sweep away the dried-up remains of the solution, rinse with water, after which you can start the jointing. The solution is kneaded like this, one part lime and cement per ten parts sand. After mixing, the solution should be used as soon as possible, literally within a couple of hours, until it hardens. Before applying the jointing mortar, the surface of the posts should be thoroughly wetted. The most common seam processing methods:
- wasteland;
- under plaster;
- processing of seams on a par with masonry;
- stitching processing.
The first way - the solution does not completely fill the space between the bricks; 1-1.5 cm remains on the front side. However, it is used much less frequently than others - this type of finish, such as plastering, is rarely used for poles. Basically, the cladding is carried out with the help of decorative finishing stone, tiles and other similar materials.
The second way - the application of the solution is carried out flush with the masonry, and in case of excess, they must be cut with a trowel. The surface is thus smooth, and the appearance is neat. For the third method, you will need a special tool, that is, stitching. The sharp edge of this tool cuts off excess mortar, and the concave or convex end helps to give the seams a relief shape. Thanks to this jointing, not only the decorative properties of the masonry increase, but the seams are also more compacted. The mortar should not just be applied, but rubbed into the seams with some effort - this way it better connects with the mortar in the masonry.
First you need to process the vertical seams, then those that are horizontal. The pillars after such a procedure as jointing should stand for at least three weeks, and only after that you can start installing the fence. If it is decided to carry out such work as laying columns on your own, and you have little experience, you should not despair. Careful attention to all stages of the process will help here the most. It is better to start laying poles from the farthest. If the first one does not work out very well, gradually the masonry will look more and more accurate.
What convinces us most of all in construction is, of course, time, this wizard who is used to putting everything in its place.
These brick columns have earned universal recognition and use even in the old "bad" Roman era, and, in fact, they still stand and continue to delight us and teach us to conscience the work done.
Almost according to Griboyedov - “would learn from the elders looking”
Surprisingly, the technology for creating brick columns has not changed at all since then. Yes, new materials have appeared, the range of bricks on the market is simply huge, but the technologies are still the same.
New is definitely a calculation
In the era of the pharaohs, it is believed that even the pyramids were largely built on a whim, simply based on vast experience and intuition. No, there was another calculation - the buildings of the Egyptians were strictly aligned to the cardinal points, all the thousand-ton stones were fitted to each other to the millimeter, but there was not much strict mathematics. What can we say about the columns, but they built, and what else, for centuries.
Calculation for everyone
The calculation of a brick column consists of a series of successive steps.
First, we define the initial data:
- size,
- brand of brick (strength).
Then, at the first step, we calculate the strength of the column, which to some extent depends on the construction area. This calculation is made if the column is not being erected on its own, but it will carry a load, in particular snow. But winter is one thing in Naryan-Mar and quite another thing in Adler.
Therefore, as additional data we define:
- roof load (snow) - P;
- the weight of the roof itself is W.
The formula for calculating the load on the column from the side of the roof is:
- Nk = 5 x 8 x (1.25 x P + W) / 4,
where numbers are standard coefficients.
If it is assumed that the column should also carry a terrace, the load per square meter of which is averaged in kilograms as Ws, then the formula for calculating the load from the side of the terrace takes the form:
- Nt = 5 x 8 x Ws / 4.
Determine the weight of the column itself:
- Nd = 1500 x 0.38 x 0.38 x D,
where D is the length of the column.
Thus, we calculate the total load on the column in the section near the foundation:
- N = 0.9 x (Nk + Nt + Nd),
where 0.9 is the reduction factor due to the temporary spread of loads in summer and winter.
Useful advice!
This calculation is given for the main column of the entire structure - if there are three of them, then for the middle one.
Usually, the load on the extreme is 2 times less.
Recall also that the brand of brick indicates the load in kilograms per square centimeter that the brick can withstand.
If M75, then 75 kg per sq. cm.
An important step in the calculation is the determination of the strength of brickwork
It must be borne in mind that the strength of the masonry depends on the strength of the mortar used.
Thus, having:
- tables SNiP II-22-81 of 1995,
- sectional area of the column - S,
- working conditions coefficient (recommended 0.8 if the cross-sectional area is less than 0.3 sq.m),
we obtain the calculated resistance of the column:
- Nr = 0.8xT,
where T is tabular data.
Based on the previously obtained value N, we obtain the maximum compressive stress:
- Nmax = N / (10000 x S).
If Nr is less than Nmax, then it is necessary:
- use brick more strength, or,
- increase the section of the column, or,
- use transverse masonry reinforcement.
To begin with, accurately imagine the layout of the masonry - from the very foundation of the foundation to the cap
Determination of the stability of a brick column
- N ≤ m x φ x R x F,
where:
- m is the load duration factor. For ordinary columns without load, this factor is 1, although, if the load is present, it requires very careful attention and referral to directories.
- φ is the buckling coefficient.
This coefficient depends on the flexibility of the column, which in turn depends on its height and is calculated by the formula:
- L = H/h
where:
- h is the actual height of the column,
- H is the reduced height, based on operating conditions, if the column is not under load, then H is equal to h and L, therefore, is equal to 1.
- R - tabular characteristic, taking into account operating conditions;
- F is the cross-sectional area in sq.cm.
If the resulting value is less than N, then the column requires reinforcement.
The nuances of working with the foundation
The success of the whole business of building any vertical structure is the foundation.
The quality of the foundation is especially important for columns, which are characterized by an increased load per unit area of the foundation.
- First, it is necessary to determine the nature of the soil. If the soil is prone to moisture accumulation, the so-called heaving, then the best way out when creating the foundation of the column is to completely remove the soil and replace it with fine gravel or a mixture of gravel with sand.
Whether you use a double silicate brick M 150 or any other, it must exactly match the design of all the buildings in your house. In the photo - carefully monitor the foundation
- Secondly, to help you line up the ideal vertical line of the column, you can concrete a steel pipe into its base. In the future, it will be the core of the entire column.
- Thirdly, pay special attention to the foundation of the structure.. The base should always be a pyramidal structure of 3-4 "layers".
Each subsequent layer is an approximation to the dimensions of the column itself. The outermost one is 20-30% larger than the column size.
- Fourthly, lay the mortar very carefully - its thickness must be at least a tenth of the thickness of the brick. Before use, the bricks must be kept in water for some time until the air bubbles finally come out of them.
- Fifth. Saving the total weight of the column, or considering using its internal cavity for wiring, you can make the column hollow. At the same time, in no case should moisture get inside - in the winter season, moisture will simply “break” the entire structure.
As a conclusion - be sure to carefully concrete the upper surface of the column, make it sloping or, best of all, use a cap on top.
- Sixth, in order to strengthen and level the structure, it is very useful to alternate vertical rows of bricks with continuous layers of wooden or metal "plates".
conclusions
The nature of the construction of a brick column, its characteristics depend on its purpose - whether it is a component of the fence and, thus, will carry practically no vertical load, or the column will serve to support a canopy or even an attic (Read also the article). In the second case, there are also significant design and design nuances.
The price of an error in calculations and construction is quite high. Therefore, pay close attention to the calculations. When constructing the structure itself, if we are talking about strength, then it is better to play it safe and do more than is necessary than to be too lazy and not include something in the work.
Recently, brick fences have been especially popular. Such a building not only looks luxurious, but says a lot about the financial condition of the owners.
Of course, a fence built entirely of brick is a very costly undertaking. But there is always an opportunity to reduce costs if you approach this process creatively.
Such an exit is a combined fence, in which only the columns are laid out with brick, and the inserts (filling) can be any - profiled sheets, wooden spans or forged metal.
Fence posts are most often made of facing bricks and in this case, in addition to the aesthetic function, they also carry a supporting one. Such combined fences using brick pillars are strong and durable structures.
Construction steps and tools
Brick columns from a brick for a fence are carried out in several stages:
- Markup. This is the first and important step. All construction depends on its quality implementation. It is necessary to decide where the fence will be located, its length, where will the gate and gate be, what will be the distance between the brick pillars of the fence? The distance between the columns should be the same, and the installation line should be straight.
- Choosing a brickwork method. This will depend on your financial capabilities and the main function of the column. Most often, for the construction of a brick column for a fence, laying one and a half or two bricks is used.
- Calculation of the required amount of materials and tools, their acquisition. To calculate the need for materials, you need to determine what the height of the columns should be and the method of laying. When choosing materials, special attention should be paid to quality. In no case should you save on materials. This directly affects its service life. Pay attention to the shade of the brick. Even within the same batch, it may differ slightly.
- Post and fence construction. This stage includes the preparation of the foundation for a brick fence and the erection of the columns itself.
To build brick pillars for a fence, you need special tools that you can’t do without:
- Shovel. It is used to mix the solution.
- A bathtub, bucket or some other container is used to prepare a solution in it and deliver it to the place of work.
- A trowel used for applying cement.
- Trowel, with its help perform bricklaying.
- Level and plumb, used to check the level of verticality and horizontality of the performed columns.
- Metal rod or wire 10x10 mm. With their help, they monitor the uniformity of the distribution of the solution so that the masonry seams are the same.
- Scaffolding is used when the brick columns for the fence are very high. They lay out tools and materials for laying out the upper rows of the structure.
Installation technology of brick columns and pillars
Technology for installing brick pillars - diagram
Very often, when performing construction work on the construction of brick columns for a fence, gross mistakes are made by amateurs and experienced builders. They are based on a special technology for the construction of fence structures.
Brick fence posts are subjected mainly to lateral loads. Variable loads, rather than vertical ones, are of the greatest importance for such structures. Therefore, it is more important to reinforce the post along the entire length (especially the supports for gates and gates) than the binding of bricks, which ensures an even distribution of the vertical load.
Considering the laying method from the point of view of brick fence construction technology is not entirely correct. It is necessary, first of all, to study the laying of brick structures, in accordance with their purpose.
There are two fundamentally different methods:
- Laying columns for load-bearing (supporting) structures;
- Fencing structures.
The first method is used if the pillar will serve as a support, which bears the main weight of the structure. With a relatively small surface area, such a column, resting on the foundation, will have to withstand huge vertical loads.
The second method has a special purpose. Basically, these are brick posts for various sections in a combined type of fence, as well as a support for gates and wickets.
Visually, they are absolutely no different. However, the foundation for them is performed differently, and there are also structural differences. The very same bricklaying technology and its scheme will be the same.
Some features of the construction of brick pillars
During the construction of brick supports, special attention is paid to the foundation. The degree of load on brick columns directly depends on its reliability and quality.
A hole under the posts is dug up to a depth of 1.2 m (to the depth of soil freezing). But if they serve as a support for the gate, then the optimal depth of the foundation will be equal to ½ the height of the pillar.
The width at the bottom of the base should be twice the size of the support itself, and at the level of the ground surface it should correspond to its dimensions. When building such a foundation, any distortions and subsidence of the earth are excluded.
To protect the masonry of columns from destruction, caps are usually installed on top. They are made of metal, tiles or concrete. A column with a cap looks much more aesthetically pleasing.
To increase the strength of the pillars, to prevent them from collapsing under loads, they are erected around a metal pipe. This is especially true for posts that support a gate or gate.
The distance between the pillars of a brick fence can be anything from 2 to 8 meters. It depends on many circumstances and conditions:
- the amount of financial resources intended for the construction of the fence;
- the dimensions of the filler material (length of the span of a profiled sheet or wooden picket fence) during the construction of a combined fence;
- degree of load on the pillars.
It is not necessary to build columns very rarely, as this will greatly affect the quality of the fence and its service life. And besides, it looks less attractive. The most optimal distance between the supports is 2.5 - 4 m.
The distance between the supports for the gate and the gate is calculated very carefully so that later you do not have to adjust anything. Ideally, when the dimensions of the gate and gate are known before the construction of a brick fence. This will avoid a lot of unnecessary problems associated with adjusting the distance.
The filler is attached to the posts only after they have settled for some time. This usually takes 2-3 weeks.
Pillars made of facing bricks must be treated with a special impregnation, which will cover it with a film and will serve as protection against the appearance of efflorescence (whitish stains), and subsequent destruction.
Brick laying sequence
Brick laying technology depends on the type of fence. It is important whether it will be completely brick or with some kind of filler.
According to the method of laying, the columns are divided into structures with a laying of one and a half or two bricks. These are the most common methods. Brick for fence posts must be of high quality and intact, without chips. The foundation must be covered with a layer of insulating material. This will affect the quality and durability of the entire structure.
Accurate and most importantly, durable brickwork for fence posts is obtained only if all the rules are fully observed.
Let us consider in detail how to technologically correctly make poles for a brick fence with your own hands:
- along the perimeter of the column, on top of the insulating layer, we lay out metal rods or wire. They are used to ensure that the masonry seams are the same in thickness. You can lay out the rod only on the front side.
- We evenly lay the solution on top, but so that it is not higher than the rods.
- Now lay out a row of bricks around the perimeter. In each next row, it must be shifted by half the length. Thus, ligation of seams is obtained. The brick is gently tapped with a trowel if it is necessary to trim it, and then the wire or rods are pulled out. Excess solution is removed with a trowel. Experienced craftsmen do not recommend completely filling the seams with mortar. Some advise gently rubbing the solution into the seams before jointing. Excess is removed with a brush or a regular broom.
- Every three or four rows, the correctness of the horizontal masonry line is checked with a level.
- Crushed stone is poured inside the column and poured with a solution. It shouldn't be too liquid. With the help of a reinforcing bar, they help him penetrate between the rubble. This operation is done after about 6-8 rows.
In general, the masonry does not differ in any particular complexity. If there is not enough experience in performing such work, then it is best to start from the farthest column. So that the quality increases as you approach the gate and gate.
Rules for laying brick columns
To increase strength and extend the service life, it is better to build brick fence posts around reinforcement, a metal profile or a pipe. Moreover, it should be located along the entire height of the column. If this is a support post, then the reinforcement must be solid. In other cases, it can be welded from separate pieces.
To prevent damage to the pillars, the structure should be strengthened. This can be done with internal or external reinforcement.
Internal reinforcement is achieved through a combination of concreting and reinforcement. It is best to concrete a metal pipe or channel into the foundation. The interior space is filled with mortar. It turns out a very strong structure that is difficult to break.
External reinforcement of the columns can be done by arranging a metal clip. To do this, metal corners are put on the corners of the column and firmly tightened with reinforcement.
You can make a reinforced concrete frame. A metal reinforced mesh is put on the column, pulled together and concreted with a layer of at least 4-5 cm.
The heavier the fence, the deeper and stronger the foundation should be. Its depth also depends on the height of the entire structure.
It is possible to strengthen the strength of the structure by using a four-row dressing of the seams. With such a system, only a whole brick is used, with overlapping joints once in four rows. That will allow you to perform the design of the required strength.
For the lower three to four rows of the column structure, it is imperative to use a solid brick. This will also increase strength. The remaining rows can be laid out of brick with slotted holes. The main thing is that the consistency of the solution should not be too liquid. To speed up the laying process, the mortar is usually laid out immediately under the entire row.
So that the support can reliably withstand any weight of the fence insert web, it is better to make metal mortgages. Then the transverse logs can be welded to them, which will only further strengthen the structure.
On the second and third rows of masonry, a gap is made at the top and bottom of the pole at the attachment point of the canvas. In a brick, a hole is sawn with a grinder to ½ the height of the mortgage plate. It will be located between two rows of bricks. Its length should be such that it reaches the pipe located in the middle of the column. If the fence is not very high (2-2.5 m), then two such plates are enough. If higher, then you can place another plate in the middle of the column.
Any columned structure, whether it be a canopy or a fence, must first be built in such a way that the finished structure can withstand the increased load in the future. It is possible to obtain the desired effect only if, when choosing masonry products, give preference to high-quality building material, sufficient strength and reliability.
Taking into account the opinion of experts, it is best to build columns from solid facing bricks, without damage to the surface and visible defects. You can also use halves of bricks, but only if all kinds of destruction are also not noticeable on the surface of the building material.
The laying of brick columns is carried out without tying a multi-row value. It is not at all necessary to perform the analyzed type of strapping, since the structure in question is not monolithic.
Preparatory stage
In order for a brick column to serve a long service life, in strict order, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the technology during its construction.
Compliance with the rules is mandatory for any structures, since even a slight violation can cause a newly erected structure to subside or even completely destroy it.
For the construction of brick columns, regardless of whether the structure is built in one and a half bricks or one, a three-row garter is used. This is explained quite simply - a single-row version requires more labor, and a multi-row one does not help create a strong and reliable structure.
As soon as a linear meter of the base is laid on a quality cement mortar, the level of masonry is checked, both in a vertical position and in a horizontal one. To do this, use the usual building level and any type of plumb line. To enhance the strength of the future structure, experts recommend using a special mesh for reinforcement. If the mesh will be used for masonry, it is imperative to check that the edges of the material are recessed inside the structure.
Before you start laying the column, you should prepare the necessary material and construction tools:
- brick base and cement-sand mortar;
- reinforcing mesh;
- building level and plumb;
- a container in which it will be possible to knead the cement and spatula.
Before erecting the column, a foundation base is prepared, the size of which must correspond to the dimensions of the future structure. In the foundation, you need to install metal reinforcement or a pillar around which the column will be built.
Before you start making a brick column with your own hands, you should decide which method is better to use for the construction - 2 × 2, 2 × 1.5, 2 × 2.5 solid bricks. According to experts, both the first and second masonry options can be used for the construction of the intake column. The finished design will turn out in reliable performance and without problems cope with the load that will fall on it in the future.
The laying of a column of one and a half bricks is carried out in the following sequence:
- For the first row, 6 bricks are required, which must be laid out with the back side to each other.
- When laying the second row, two outer solid bricks and two halves of the base should be placed perpendicular to the first laid row. And lay the remaining 3 bricks in a parallel arrangement to each other.
- 4 bricks of the third row in a perpendicular position are laid to the bricks involved in creating the first row, in the so-called spoon. The remaining two bricks, located poking to each other, are used to fill the resulting space.
- To create 4 rows, the technology used in the third row is repeated, but only in mirror image. To do this, it is simply enough to visually turn the structure 380 °.
Having chosen the technology of laying columns 2 × 2, you should adhere to the following rules:
- For laying the first row, you need 3 pcs. facing bricks laid using the "poke in poke" technology.
- When laying the second row of bricks, the masonry is rotated horizontally by 90 °.
- Raising the 3rd row, repeat the technology of the first and so on.
If massive columns are being erected, according to experts, it is necessary to fill in the space that forms between the steel reinforcement and the laid bricks.
When erecting several columns located close to each other, it is recommended to erect all columns simultaneously and sequentially. That is, first of all, lay out the first row of bricks on each column and check the evenness of the masonry using a building
level and plumb. If you do not need to align anything, you can safely proceed to the construction of the second row and so on. If the column construction technology is violated, this will lead both to a violation of the symmetry parameters and to an unevenly distributed load, which will later be placed on nearby columns.
Following the recommendations and advice previously analyzed in the article, building columns in stages from high-quality building material, every home craftsman will be able to cope with the task and will certainly enjoy the result.
A fence on brick pillars is an immortal classic, but few succeed in achieving perfectly even seams and edges. In this article, we will not only tell you how to properly lay out brick pillars, but also share some secrets regarding durability and aesthetics.
What should be the basis
Poles will quickly lose their neat appearance without a solid and solid base. Only two types of foundation should be seriously considered: tape and screw piles.
The width of the foundation should not be more than that of the pillar, it looks very ugly. An exception is if you plan to bring the entire yard to the level of the foundation or arrange a blind area-path close to the fence on both sides. In other cases, the foundation should not be wider than the pillar by more than 20 mm, and ideally, be flush with it.
For high pillars, the foundation should be built up in depth, which is not always economical. The depth is approximately 30-35 cm for poles 2-2.2 m high, and for poles above 3 m it is already about 45-50 cm.
At the same time, the foundation profile is constant along the entire contour, that is, more massive pedestals for pillars connected by a less deepened belt are a deliberately bad decision. The height difference will make the concrete more susceptible to bending, which, in principle, can lead to a rupture of the brickwork and is guaranteed to lead to a decrease in its strength.
For these and other reasons, it is better to arrange the foundation for the pillars of a brick fence on screw piles. So the whole structure will evenly rest on the deep layer of soil with high stability. A bunch of pillars with a reinforced belt, however, is needed, it eliminates vibrations in the installation plane. But for the bundle, a much smaller belt is needed, only 40% of the side section of the pedestal under the pole. It deepens only 20 cm, another 10 cm remains above the ground. That is, a standard reinforced belt will have dimensions of only 13-16 cm by 30 cm, it can be placed on the edge for laying a parapet, or turned horizontally and hidden under a layer of soil for laying paving slabs in a single contour.
The reinforced belt connecting the screw piles experiences practically no bending load. It is reinforced with four 14 mm rods, installing them along the edges of a concrete parallelogram with a protective layer of 30 mm and a dressing of 160 mm. 4 pieces of the same reinforcement 3/4 of the column width are welded to the pile pipe. They are placed perpendicular to the reinforcement of the belt at the same level and tied with wire. Another advantage of screw piles is that their pipes can serve as reinforcing rods for pillars.
Pole reinforcement options
If you are not using screw piles, pay attention to the proper reinforcement of the posts. For these purposes, one reinforcing bar is not enough. When laying the column, a cavity is formed, it is filled with cement residues, the layer thickness of which cannot be more than 100 mm, otherwise it will simply tear during hydration.
The first way to avoid this is to reduce the volume of the filler with a 50 mm round or square pipe. If you are using a square profile, orient its edges along the plane of the fence, this will help align the textured brickwork.
The second way is to strengthen the backfill with a square-section frame with a side of 7-9 cm, made of 10 mm reinforcement. Install transverse strapping in increments of 25-30 cm.
The height of both the frame and the pipe should be 15% more than the height of the column. It is this rule that determines the depth of the foundation: it is built up not because of the increased mass of the column, but for a reliable connection between the masonry and the base.
Pillar laying technique
The very technique of laying the pillars is extremely simple and is carried out according to seam patterns - bars 8 mm thick with a square profile, the length of which is 10-15 cm longer than the width of the pillar. The bars are laid strictly along the outer perimeter of the pillar, releasing the edges towards the poke of the brick being laid.
It is convenient to lay out the first row along the square cut of the rolled waterproofing. The side of this square is equal to the length and width of the brick, plus 8 mm of the seam. Bars are placed along the perimeter of the waterproofing, and a layer of M150 cement mortar on M400 cement is laid inside this “formwork”. Then a brick is laid at the corner, a piece of 8 mm square rod 10 cm long is attached to the outer edge of the poke and the end is smeared with cement mortar, fixing the template. The second brick is adjacent to the first in a perpendicular direction, its end is also greased under the bar, then the third brick and the fourth are laid.
The bars from the vertical seams are removed first, pressing down the seam with a trowel from above and pulling the bar vertically. The removed bar immediately measures the seam on the reverse side, making sure of its uniform thickness, and hence the correct geometry of the entire masonry. It remains only to align the horizontal plane of the masonry with a rack level and you can proceed to the next row.
Horizontal bars under the first row are not pulled out immediately, but left for 2-3 hours, for subsequent rows the second set is used. It is advisable not to lay out more than 3-4 rows at a time and move from one column to another as it dries. Pull the bars only in the direction in which they are laid. That is why it is so important to first place them correctly: if you pull the spoon to the side, the outermost brick will certainly move.
In order for the masonry to be truly monolithic, after applying the mortar, two 80 mm galvanized nails are sunk into it perpendicularly in the center of each seam. They cost a penny, but the masonry is guaranteed not to loosen even after 30 years.
How to level a brick
Masters without masonry experience think that leveling textured bricks is more difficult than usual, but in reality, everything is just the opposite. The so-called torn brick does not have strict edges, so all that can give out crooked masonry is a mismatch of vertical seams. And they are very easy to align in one vertical line along a plumb line. The question arises: how to align the first two rows of bricks, because only on the third row do two matching vertical seams appear?
The first row of textured bricks is difficult to align with the waterproofing square, as the torn edge does not have a smooth edge. Therefore, alignment is carried out along the inner, flat edge: the size of the internal cavity of the column is easy to calculate, you can also make a template from the corners.
Brick with straight edges is more difficult to align, any mistake will be visible to the naked eye. Firstly, the eye clings to three geometric landmarks at once: the horizontal plane, the edge of the fence and the vertical seams. Secondly, two bricks from the same batch can have a difference in length and width of up to 0.5%, which results in a difference of more than 1 mm on one side, and this discrepancy will also be striking. Eliminating such a defect is quite simple: if the brick is light, it is leveled, strictly observing the thickness of the seam. If the brick is of a dark tone, it is aligned along the outer edge of the pillar.
After laying out the pillars, they are wrapped in black plastic wrap for 2 days, then the tops are installed. After another week, you need to sweep the seams with a brush and rinse the masonry with a stream of water to remove gray cement stains.