Which side to lay the brick. How to lay a brick wall
Brick has existed far from the first century. From it they built houses in different countries and even parts of the world, having invented many different ways and types of masonry. And although there are many secrets and features in the technology itself, you can figure it out. First you need to familiarize yourself with the main provisions and terminology, without which it will be impossible to understand what in question. Then, choose the masonry technique and the type of dressing, and after you begin the practical development of skills. Brickwork do it yourself can be done, at least, not worse than that of professionals. The only thing the amateur will definitely yield is speed. All other parameters, subject to technology, will certainly be no worse.
Key Terms
Start with common concepts. Everyone knows for sure what a brick looks like, that it is ceramic, but silicate - too. But not many people are aware of how the faces of this material are correctly called. And in the description of the masonry technology, they are very common.
The biggest facet is called " pastel", Middle - side -" spoons"And the smallest -" poke«.
The dimensions of the brick are, in principle, standardized (250 * 125 * 66 mm - single and 250 * 125 * 88 mm - one and a half), but the technology of its production is such that they can differ significantly from different manufacturers: by 2-3 mm in each of faces, and this is quite a significant difference when you consider the number of pieces in one row. Therefore, before ordering a batch, it is advisable to measure samples from several calcinations in order to determine how accurately the technology is maintained.
It is also important to pay attention to geometry: the faces should be located strictly under 90 °. Otherwise, bursting loads will occur and the wall may crumble.
Types of masonry
Brick walls can play a different role. In some cases, this is only decoration, in some - partitions, and sometimes - load-bearing walls. Based on the purpose, as well as the required thermal conductivity of the walls, the type of brickwork is selected:
- In half a brick. Most often, this is done by facing. The thickness of such a wall is 125 mm. To save money, you can put the material on a spoon, then you get a quarter brick wall. When such devices are installed (in 1/2 or 1/4), a reinforcing mesh is laid in each 4-5 row. It is necessary to increase the rigidity of the wall and create additional bonds that increase the strength of the masonry.
- Into the brick. It can already be partitions or two load-bearing walls of small buildings. Wall thickness - 250 mm.
- One and a half, two and two and a half bricks are already load-bearing walls.
Dressing and row names
Although the brick wall is made up of many small elements, it should work like a monolith. To provide increased strength, the seams, which are the weak point in this system, are made with offset. Specialists call this technique "dressing." It seems to connect different elements into a single whole, allowing you to redistribute the load on large surfaces.
To provide the necessary displacement of the seams, the bricks are placed in different ways:
- if they are turned to the front side with the smallest part - a jab, this row is called tychkovy;
- if rotated by the long side - with a spoon - the row is called spoonful.
Moreover, the first in the masonry - on the foundation - lies tychkovy, they also finish the masonry. And for him, the use of solid bricks is mandatory.
Single row dressing
Alternating alternation of such series gives a very good result. This method of dressing is called single-row or chain dressing. It is practiced on walls that are not planned to be finished: it looks neat. By such a system, both external and load-bearing walls can be folded.
Wall masonry schemes
Examples of single-row brick walls of 1.5 and 2 bricks are shown in the photo below.
Single-row dressing in the wall of 1.5 and 2 creeps
In the case of laying a wall in two bricks, two more terms appear. Two outer spoon rows are called versts - outdoor verst directed to the street inner verst - to the room. They use smooth, good material, especially carefully selecting those that are directed outward. The space between them is called clog. Since this element is closed on all sides, you can use a lower grade material, for example, used.
Please note that with this masonry, sawn bricks are also required: halves and three-quarters. Three-quarters in the diagram crossed out cross to cross, the halves in one diagonal strip. How to make the adjacency of partitions to walls made using this technique is shown in the photo below.
Angle diagrams
Corner laying in this case is very important. According to the technique, first the corners are expelled, a cord is pulled between them, and then the wall is laid according to the scheme. But the corners are the first to set, on how correctly and evenly they are driven out, how smooth the entire building will be. The scheme of laying a corner in 1 brick with a single-row dressing is located like. The masonry begins with the installation of two 3/4 pieces, then the whole ones go.
See the video for the sequence of actions. A very detailed explanation with a step-by-step demonstration of the procedure.
The same system, but the wall is 1.5 bricks. In addition to whole, 3/4 and quarter pieces are required. The spoon row alternately on the inner, then on the outer verst.
How this scheme is put into practice, see the video.
When laying an angle of 2 bricks in the first row, all the same two three-quarter pieces, and another 6 quarters or, as they say, chekuseks, are required. In the second one, one on 3/4 and two checks are already required.
Multi-row dressing
In multi-row dressing, several spoon rows - 6 (for a single brick) or 5 (for one and a half) - are interspersed with one poke. The first and last are also put with pokes. This method is also suitable for laying external and internal walls. Only they are usually planned for insulation or decoration.
Wall masonry schemes
To prevent free-standing columns from using such a system, the spoon rows inside are also tied up. To ensure the displacement of the joints, crushed bricks are used.
Do-it-yourself brickwork: multi-row dressing scheme in 2 and 2.5 bricks
The adjacency of the walls with this method also occurs with the pervyazka. This provides increased adhesion strength of the walls. Schemes - in the photo below.
Corner masonry schemes
And again about how to lay corners, but with multi-row dressing. If the wall is one brick, the even and odd rows (except the first) are the same.
You will see all this in the video.
If the wall is 1.5 bricks, in the first and second rows with bumps, but located either in the outer or the inner verst. The third and fourth rows - exclusively placed on a spoon.
The fifth row is laid similarly to the third, the sixth to the fourth. Next, the system repeats. At times, not a multi-row (with 5 spoonful poisons) is required, but a three-row system. Then from the fifth row the clack repeats.
Masonry mortar
The brick is laid on a cement-sand mortar. Cement is used no lower than M400, sand - clean, ravine. The proportions for the specified brand are 1 to 4 (for m500 - 1: 5). Kneading is done manually or using a concrete mixer, but the order does not change.
First sand is sieved, a binder is added to it, everything is mixed in a dry state until a uniform color is achieved. Then they add water. Its amount is 0.4-0.6 parts, but look at the plasticity of the solution. It is more convenient to work with a plastic mortar than with a hard one, but when laying hollow bricks in this case, the mortar consumption is greatly increased: it fills the voids. In this case, it is more practical to make a hard solution.
To improve ductility and more convenient work, lime, clay or a liquid detergent are added to the composition (hand soap can be used in large flasks). The amount of additives is quite small - no more than 0.1 part, but the characteristics of the solution improve significantly: it is easier to stack, it does not stratify for longer.
Immediately worth warning: do not immediately knead large volumes. Kneading must be used for two hours. And in the last half hour it can be difficult to work with it: water separation may begin, or it may begin to set. It depends on weather conditions and cement quality, on the thoroughness of the batch. If DIY bricklaying is your first experience in this area, it will turn out slowly. Therefore, it is better to make portions of the solution small.
Approximate flow rate solution
Often, for beginners planning to lay a brick on their own, the question arises: at what temperature can I work. Without special additives, you can work at plus temperatures. IN best option - not lower than + 7 ° C. This is the threshold at which cement sets normally. At lower temperatures, the hardening process practically stops, as a result, the solution may crumble, and the strength of the wall will be low. To lower the bar there are special anti-frost additives, but the cost of such a solution is already high: the price of these additives is considerable.
Before use, the solution is mixed, as heavy particles can sink down and water rise up. The mixed solution is placed in buckets and transferred to the place of masonry, where it is distributed. Immediately lay a strip of solution - a bed - for one row. Under the ridge row, the width of the bed is 200-220 mm, for the spoon - 80-100 mm. If the seam is filled completely, about 10-15 mm recede from the edge, the height of the mortar is 20-25 mm, which, when laying, provides a seam of 10-12 mm. Before installing the brick, the mortar is leveled with a trowel.
There are three bricklaying techniques. On a rigid, non-plastic solution, the “hold-down” technique is used. In this case, the seams are filled completely. If the solution is plastic, use the “end-to-end” technique.
The technique of “masonry” brickwork
As already mentioned, this method of bricklaying is used with plastic mortar. It must be mobile, easy to apply and displace. This is achieved by the addition of additives. You can spread the solution immediately on the entire surface of the wall: additives allow you to extend the time before setting.
The bed is laid with a thickness of about 20 mm, an indent of about 15-20 mm remains from the edge. This indentation avoids extruding the mortar onto the front surface, but at the same time, the edges of the seams often remain unfilled. This significantly reduces the strength of the wall, because in regions with seismic activity the laying of verst rows (external and internal) is prohibited by this method.
When laying a spoon row, take a brick, holding it with a slight slope. Leading to the already laid, at a distance of 8-10 cm they begin to rake the solution with the edge (poke). When joining, it turns out that the seam is already partially filled. The brick is pressed down a bit (settles down), pressing it to the bed. The excess is removed with a trowel and sent either to a bucket or to a wall.
The technique of bricklaying "end-to-end"
With this technique, it often turns out that the vertical seams are only partially filled. Therefore, this method is also called "wasteland." They are filled when laying the bed for the next row. If the technique is not very well developed yet, it is better to fill the seams before laying the next row: voids reduce the strength and thermal insulation characteristics.
When laying a tychkovy row, everything is exactly the same, only they rake up the solution with a spoonful face. The crap fits into, like the rows of rows, and then is pressed with the palm of your hand. It is necessary to ensure that all stones are on the same level. They do this with the help of a building level, and the verticality of the wall is checked with a plumb line every 3-4 rows.
Appliance technique
When working with hollow bricks, hard solutions are used, as a rule. In this case, the brick is used with the “hold” technique. In this case, you also have to work with a trowel.
The bed is placed at a distance of 10 mm from the edge, the thickness is still about 20 mm. Since such a composition does not stretch well, it is raked to the edge of the laid brick with the edge of the tool. With their left hand they take a brick and press it to the trowel, while pulling it up. At the same time, they continue to press with a brick, achieving the required thickness of the seam (10-12 mm).
Back-to-back technique
Excess solution is selected with a trowel. Having laid a few fragments, take a level by checking the horizontalness of the row, tapping the handle of the trowel to straighten the position. The solution which extruded out is selected. It turns out a dense masonry, but the process takes longer: more movements are required.
Trimming with pruning
The average performance method is end-to-end with trimming seams. With this method, the bed is laid out close to the edge (10 mm), as when laying in place, and the laying method is end-to-end: the solution was raked with a brick, put, crushed, removed the excess. If the wall is not subsequently planned to be finished with anything, after several rows it is necessary to take the joint - a special tool and give the seams the desired shape (convex, concave, flat).
As you can see, this is a kind of symbiosis. To work more conveniently, the solution is also made with "intermediate" ductility. If it is too liquid, it will flow down the wall, leaving streaks, so it needs to be kneaded a little denser than when laying end-to-end.
Do-it-yourself brickwork: tools, order and features
Now, how to lay a brick with your own hands you have an idea, you need to talk about the procedure and also some technical nuances.
Let's start with the tool. Will be needed:
- mason's trowels - apply and level the mortar on bricks;
- concrete mixer or container for mixing mortar;
- mortar shovel - for kneading and periodic mixing;
- two or three buckets for mortar;
- plumb - check the verticality of the walls and corners,
- building level - to check the horizontal laying of the row;
- mooring cord - for beating rows;
- stitching (for molding seams);
- a pickaxe hammer for beating incomplete bricks (halves, 3/4 and chekusok - 1/4);
- the rule is a metal or wooden flat bar to check the plane of the wall.
Next, we discuss the features of the technology. First: it is advisable to soak the brick before use. This is especially true in hot, dry weather. Then it will less “pull” moisture from the solution. If moisture is not enough, cement will not be able to gain the required strength, which will affect the strength of the building.
Second: corners are kicked out first. First two first. They are connected by 2-3 rows of bricks according to the selected masonry scheme. Then the third corner is kicked out. The second and third are also connected by several full rows. After the fourth corner is set and the perimeter is closed. So it is necessary to build walls, bypassing them around the perimeter, and do not expel the walls in turn. This is one of the most common mistakes.
Third: there are two row control technologies. The first - nails are inserted into the seams of the corners, to which shoelaces are attached. It must be pulled so that it marks the upper edge of the brick, and also limits the outer (and if necessary the inner) surface of the wall.
The second way is to use wooden or metal orders. This is a flat bar or corner on which marks are applied every 77 mm - risks on wood or cuts on metal. They mark the required row thickness: brick height + seam. They are installed using flat mounting brackets, which are inserted into the seam. If necessary, they are then simply removed and rearranged higher.
There is another way - a mason's corner. It has a slot on one side into which a mooring is made. "Sits" at an angle to the solution.
The disadvantage of this method is the same as just a nail in the seam: the row height should be controlled “manually” when deriving angles. With a lack of experience (and where to get it, if the brickwork is done with your own hands for the first time) it is difficult. Having (making yourself) the order is all the easier.
Fourth: preparation of incomplete bricks. As you saw, when laying, they use halves, three-quarter bricks and checks - 1/4 parts. So that the work does not slow down, before starting the masonry, you need to prepare them. This is done with a pickaxe. When preparing, high precision in size is required, otherwise the dressing will fail. To make it easier to control the length, marks on the handle are made of the corresponding length. Putting a pen on a brick, make marks on both sides of the spoon on it. Then, having attached a pickaxe blade to the mark, they beat on the reverse side with a hammer, making nicks. After making notches on both spoons, with a strong blow, the picks break the brick.
Brick has long been one of the most popular artificial building materials in our country. Many buildings and structures are made with its help, so almost every self-respecting builder must know how to lay a brick. This material is in demand not only as the main one, but also used to decorate certain elements.
Brick Tools
At a construction site, they put a brick in overalls and using construction tools. It is recommended to use thick clothes with a long sleeve so that particles of the solution do not fall on the body. They can have a negative effect on the skin. Eyes protect with glasses, and it is easy to protect your hands with tight gloves / gloves on a rubberized base.
Masonry at a height of more than one and a half meters without a special site or scaffolding will not work, therefore, their construction must be taken care of in advance. They are made of wooden beams and boards.
It is strictly forbidden to build brickwork with the help of a ladder or step-ladder!
The minimum set of devices and tools will be required:
- trowel / trowel triangular or quadrangular;
- level, it is desirable to have one short to half a meter and one long at least a meter;
- a cord not less than the length of the wall;
- device for joint seam;
- a brick pick;
- plumb line;
- roulette;
- gon.
Many operations involve trowel. It is convenient for applying cement mortar and for removing its excess. The back of her hand knocked out bricks in a wet solution.
Cement slurry preparation
Proper brick laying is not possible without the preparation of a high-quality aqueous solution of sand and cement. It is customary to take the ratio of solids from 1: 4 to 1: 6. If there is an inscription 400 on the cement package, then no more than 4 servings of sand are added per serving. In the "five hundredth" brand it is customary to mix 5 servings.
With manual mixing, it will be more convenient to mix them in a dry form, and then, pouring a few liters of water, form a slurry from the whole mass. The result is a mixture that can be held in the form of a cake on the trowel, which is relatively easily subjected to plastic deformation when pressed.
When working with hollow material, the penetration of the solution into the cavity of the brick is not allowed. This can reduce the thermal insulation properties of the building. One specialist should not knead more than 40-50 liters of solution once, since at an average flow rate, a large mass can quickly dehydrate and solidify in a prepared container.
If several people will be laying a brick wall, then a concrete mixer will help them accelerate. Its volume is selected in accordance with the professional capabilities of the involved specialists.
A variety of devices for bricklaying
Most often, even walls are laid out of brick with their own hands, less often it is used to form figured structures. Therefore, its most demanded form is a bar of standard sizes with smooth edges and right angles. Manufacturers offer two large groups of products that differ in composition:
- silicate brick group (based on lime with sand);
- ceramic group (they use burnt clay).
Clay-based material is divided into the following types:
- facing (front) brick;
- ordinary (building) material;
- special (heat resistant).
It is customary to display walls on ordinary blocks, on which it is subsequently supposed to be applied. finishing materialfor example, a layer of plaster or decorative cladding. The facing type is prefabricated in a uniform color with a high-quality surface. The material has a higher cost and does not imply the presence of additional outer skin.
For facing bricks prepare a solution with the addition of color so that the wall looks homogeneous
It is customary to lay chimneys, stoves or fireplaces with special blocks. Refractory properties make it possible to form a furnace in one brick, isolating it from external surfaces.
Several types of dimensions are used. The most popular are the single format (250x120x65 mm) and one and a half dimensions (250x120x88 mm). In construction, both solid and hollow blocks are used. The second type works better for thermal insulation.
For reference! How to insulate a brick chimney? For non-residential buildings, asbestos-cement sheets are used. Compared to conventional plaster, this material has 2.5 times higher thermal insulation properties, no condensation is collected on them and the sheets do not burn. The disadvantage of this method is the release of carcinogens when heated. For residential buildings, it is recommended to use metal sheets, which also prevent fire. To increase thermal insulation, a non-combustible insulation will be needed.
VIDEO: Beginner Masons Mistakes in Masonry
Varieties of masonry
There are several ways to lay a brick. The thickness of the wall or room partition will depend on this.
Brickwork is a structure made of brick laid in a certain order and fastened together with a mortar.
Traditionally, several techniques are used:
- a quarter of a brick - a beam is installed horizontally with an axis along the wall, resting on a smaller side, while the width of the wall or partition will be at least 65 or 88 mm, depending on the type of material;
- half-brick will provide the wall with a width of 120 mm, which is enough for summer buildings or as a decor to the wall of cinder block;
- masonry in one brick is used for external walls, it will be 250 mm;
- a wall width of one and a half bricks will provide better thermal insulation, as it has 340 mm;
- for two-story building we put a wall with a width of at least 510 mm in two bricks.
Laying brickwork is necessary at temperatures above 5 ° C, since at a lower value the mortar may not provide a good adhesion.
Direct masonry procedure
Before you lay the brick correctly, you must wait until the foundation solidifies. This will allow not to sag the walls in separate areas, which can lead to destruction of the structure. Under the first layer, waterproofing is displayed in the form of a double linen from roofing material. It will create a barrier to moisture and will not allow the walls to get wet, absorbing water from the ground.
In the process of erecting a building, you yourself need to control the horizontal line for laying and the verticality of the corners. In the first case, a stretched lace along the entire wall and level helps, and in the second, a plumb line is used.
The initial row, laid on the foundation, sets the tone for the entire wall, so it is important to lay it responsibly, avoiding distortions. A solution is placed between the bricks, which should provide a gap of 5-6 mm. The rows have the same seam of 7-8 mm. It is advisable to control the first rows after each block using a level. It is necessary to apply a small amount of solution on the sides of the stacked bars.
Before you make a wall, you need to identify the corners, bringing them to a height of three to four levels. Vertical seams should not be through, for this, each bar is displaced along the axis relative to the previous row. To eliminate the bulge (the protrusion of the masonry section relative to the entire wall) or the cavity can be done in advance by applying a level vertically to the front of the wall.
In place for laying with a trowel or trowel, put the solution. It forms a "bed", and when laying brick on it with your own hands, a gap of several millimeters will remain. Tap the trowel with a pen on the upper surface until the block sits at a level measured by the height of the stretched lace. The protruding solution is collected with a trowel from all sides.
It is more convenient to gain weight from a bucket, and have a brick supply nearby. It saves time and effort. Every 4-5 rows we recommend laying a metal mesh to reinforce the layer. This approach minimizes the possibility of shrinkage cracks.
To lay corners from a brick after the fifth row use a metal corner. It is fixed on the outside, and then the angle of the brick is brought from inside to touch. This ensures verticality.
Before working in dry weather, bricks are often soaked in water so that they become saturated with moisture.
The soaking process takes about an hour and allows you to not quickly draw moisture from the solution. The solidification of the seam will take place under normal conditions. If there is no time to wait, then it is enough to pour the material with water from a watering can.
VIDEO: How to get a corner out of a brick
Seam selection
There are several types of seams that are selected based on possible further work with the wall.
- Undercut
The mass of the solution is distributed evenly, occupying the entire space between adjacent levels. A smooth and even surface is ensured over the entire area. The technique is in demand in the construction of the inner surface of stoves and fireplaces. The lack of relief on the inner surface does not allow soot to accumulate in the seams. Designers rarely use this type for decoration.
- Convex / concave
It is used exclusively for decorative purposes. A device made using a short tube cut off along the axis of a diameter of 8-12 mm helps to provide such a relief. Depending on which side to use it, we get a U-shaped seam.
- Wasteland
The solution is placed on the site so that it does not protrude beyond the boundaries of the brick, providing a technological gap of small depth. A similar relief is necessary for surfaces left under the plaster. Clinging to the texture, the finish will hold on better.
The required amount of brick is calculated according to the table. It is advisable to harvest 10-12% more for the formation of complex angles and joints.
Before proceeding with the masonry, you need to lay out the first two rows without a solution in order to determine the size. When building walls, do not use trimmings or leftovers for window and door openings. And the last thing to remember is that before the mortar the brick has to dry.
VIDEO: How to lay a brick. How to make perfect seams
Masonry is not tricky at first glance, and not everyone knows how to do it. Learning this case is better to start with theory, and only then begin to practice. Professional builders, too, once started from scratch. They also didn’t succeed right away, and there were mistakes, but since they have an education in this area, they quickly corrected them and improved their skills.
Brickwork
- it’s time consuming. The lifetime depends on the quality of laying on a straight line.
Anyone can learn how to lay a brick and, having knowledge and skills, you can build a solid building!
There are several varieties of masonry:
- Masonry of simple brick - solid;
- Masonry of ordinary brick in the form.
- Masonry of ordinary brick with horizontal ties in the form of stitch rows (concrete-brick).
- Ceramic masonry brickwork.
Masonry is carried out in rows, bricks are laid on a sand-cement mortar. The next row is slightly shifted to the side, this is done so that the wall is strong. By the way, sand-cement mortar, too, must be able to do. To prepare it, you need to calculate the ingredients, otherwise the solution may not be the consistency that is needed.
Styling technology
The first row of bricks is laid on, while the irregularities of the latter are leveled with a solution. You need to know that before laying brick, you need to do g. For this purpose materials such as bitumen mastic, fiberglass and other suitable materials are suitable.
Then we need to mark the walls, this is done using a special cord and level. In the corners they put bricks - beacons, they are installed at the intersection of walls and in the nodes and window openings. If the walls are long, then put intermediate beacons, to which the cord will be attached. How much the brick is laid exactly is checked with the help of a level and a bar, which is laid on the bricks.
Working professionals first lay out the corners. In the designated places, brickwork is done in 3-4 rows and directly to the foundation. Such actions allow you to relocate the cord to the next row. In the event that the wall is thicker than half the brick, then the laying of the first row is done perpendicular to the wall.
Different brick laying methods
An inexperienced worker will find it difficult to comply. To do this, you need a simple device that you can make yourself. To adapt, you will need a wooden block with a piece nailed to it, the thickness of which is one cm. This piece of plywood should look like the letter "P". The inside of the plywood should be equal to the length and width of the brick, and the height of the “legs” should be equal to the thickness of the seam.
Laying the solution is carried out in the internal opening and the excess solution is removed with a trowel. To simplify the work, take a special device. It is made of a couple of rails, the length of which is from one to one and a half meters, holes are made in them. Reiki should be at a distance of the height of the brick and the width of the masonry seam. When using this device, it is easier to transfer the cord for marking and the brickwork is better.
To find out whether the brick was laid correctly, use a wooden or metal square in the corners.
When checking walls, use a plumb line. The solution is usually laid with a trowel or trowel. Bricks are usually leveled with a mallet.
Preparing a solution
Solution Requirements:
- Plastic;
- The lack of small pebbles.
Composition:
- water,
- sand.
The cement grade M300, sieved sand of medium grain size, is used for the mortar. Ingredients should be taken in proportions of 1: 4, where one part is cement, and four parts are sand.
Clay is added to the solution to improve viscosity and ductility. With a small amount of work for the solution, ready-made dry mixtures are taken. Such mixtures contain all the necessary ingredients in the right amount.
It is necessary to add water to the finished mixture and mix well so that there are no lumps.
The readiness of the solution is checked as follows: in the container where the solution is located, throw the trowel with the blade down, and if the trowel enters the solution to the handle itself, then the solution is prepared correctly.
Brick laying process
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Brick was and remains the most popular building material due to such qualities as: strength, fire resistance, low thermal conductivity, frost resistance, environmental friendliness.
It is possible to enumerate its advantages indefinitely, but the fact is a fact - the most solid buildings are erected from brick, which will last for more than a decade.
Is it possible to make brick walls yourself? This is possible if you adhere to some rules. SNiP on various conditions of design, architecture and structures give certain recommendations for the construction of brick houses.
And how much does bricklaying cost for specialists? They will answer the same way: prices fluctuate depending on the time of year, complexity and speed of installation. But it has always been like this - the price of one brick will be equal to the price of working with it. That is, if a brick costs 100 rubles, then a bricklayer will take 100 rubles / piece for the work (provided that the whole construction material and the tools you provide).
Types of brickwork
Since bricks are not laid “anyhow,” but in a certain sequence, the types of brickwork also have their own names.
Material masonry
- Brick (classical) - is made from ordinary (ceramic) or silicate brick;
- Small and large block - from blocks of various sizes (cinder blocks, aerated concrete, foam concrete, ceramic or cement bricks. Here you should choose more carefully, since the weight of the brickwork will have a significant impact on the foundation of the house);
- Tesovaya - from processed stone of a certain geometric shape;
- Butovaya - It is made from stones of irregular shape, incorporating a boot with cement.
Masonry, depending on the styling
- Solid - is a monolithic structure, the width of which is half a brick. In this case, the bricks are located longitudinally with respect to the outer side of the wall;
- Lightweight and reinforced - the first is used for the construction of structures of low-rise buildings (usually 1-2 floors), consists of two parallel walls, erected in half a brick. The cavity between the walls is filled with insulation. The second is used when the construction of reinforced structures is required - for the construction of walls experiencing increased load. In this case, the walls are reinforced laterally, laying a metal mesh every three masonry rows.
- Decorative - this type of brickwork is used almost everywhere, because with its help make out facades of walls, arches, columns. When decorative masonry can be combined different types brick (for example, silicate and ceramic), however, additional reinforcement is performed.
Important! It is not recommended to erect a completely hollow wall, in order to avoid subsidence and shedding of the structure.
Brickwork of a corner in 1 brick: "Multi-row dressing system", video:
1.5 bricks: “Multi-row dressing system”, video:
In 2 bricks: “Chain dressing system”, video:
Brickwork Patterns
- chain - the yoke and spoon rows alternate, while the vertical seams of the spoon match;
- cross - horizontal spoon seams should go with a dressing;
- dutch - the poke and mixed piles alternate (in this case the spoon and poke bricks are stacked in turn - this gives a mixed row);
- gothic - only mixed rows of seams;
- english - consists of 1 tychkovy and 2 spoonfuls (with dressing in half a brick);
- multirow - consists of 1 pumkin and 4 spoonfuls nearby (with dressing in half a brick);
- multirow without dressing horizontal masonry joints.
Butt dressing
- chain;
- spoon;
- cross.
The first involves sequential sequential dressing of vertical joints. At the same time, it is advisable to alternate the yoke and spoon rows, covering the lower joints at half the length of the brick.
The second is an asymmetric closure of the joints at half the length of the brick.
The third is the asymmetric closure of the joints.
Masonry tools
- Trowel for applying the solution;
- Construction level (to check horizontal and vertical), rule (rail to control the smoothness of the front surface of the masonry);
- A skein of thread for marking (the thread is pulled to plumb), plumb (to check verticality);
- Stitching tool - used to design a seam (concave or convex);
- Pickaxe hammer;
- Shovel for mixing the solution;
How to prepare a solution
You will need:
- Sand
- Cement
- Lime
The solution is prepared at a rate of 1: 4 (cement consumption for brickwork according to the "cement-sand" scheme). The powder mixture is poured with water, stirring gradually until a creamy consistency is obtained. You can add lime for the plasticity of the solution.
Advice! If masonry is performed in a quarter of the width, then instead of preparing a cement mortar, you can use ordinary tile glue. In this case, the seams will be much smaller and thinner.
The distribution of the mortar on the surface should be made evenly, then the bricks will be on the same level without protruding beyond the wall.
Important! If the bricks are used a second time, then they should be properly moistened. This is necessary because dry bricks “draw” all the water from the solution, quickly drying it, and this reduces the quality of the solution and affects the masonry itself.
Brick Laying Technology
For those who take up such work for the first time, we can recommend putting a trial (“sighting”) row without applying mortar to the bricks. So you can clearly see the calculation of the brickwork, how much material is spent on one row and how it is located in a row.
Advice! Bricks should be laid whole, paying particular attention to vertical joints. The seam between them can be done using a wooden block of small thickness: brick - block - brick. In this case, the distance between the bricks will be the same, and if necessary (already during masonry for the mortar), you can adjust the thickness of the seam. Another bar will allow you to adjust the thickness of the horizontal seam.
We assume that the foundation of the house is perfectly flat. A brick is placed in the first row, whetstones (two to the “poke”) are applied to its faces (see photo). Then a cement mortar is placed in the middle of the brick and distributed throughout the face of the “bed”. For a more solid setting of the mortar with the edge of the brick, you can tap the masonry.
Excess solution will "come out" through the open sides, it can be collected with a trowel. After that, the bars are removed and transferred to the next brick. If the level and rule are applied, then the seams on the front side will look more than perfect.
Angles
After laying the first row follows the design of the corners.
Important! At this stage, the brick should be laid especially carefully and carefully, since the following fences will be erected with a reference to the corners.
For laying out the corners, you will need a level, a plumb line and a wooden rail - very strong and even, which will serve as a "beacon".
One end of the lighthouse is vertically mounted in the ground, the second is fixed at the beginning of a future corner. So you should fix all four beacons, be sure to control the plumb line verticality. If all the beacons are installed perfectly straight, you can safely lay out the corners.
Brickwork corner in 1x1 / 2 bricks Video:
How to join bricks
If the butt joints are made of poor quality, the result will be poor sealing of the joints and large heat loss. In addition, a lot of grout will be required, and this additional expense cement and sand. What can be done to get neat little seams?
Use the bars again. With their help, the brickwork of the outer walls will come out not only perfectly smooth, but will have the same gaps. It is advisable to tap masonry bricks with a hammer after applying the mortar.
Walls
After marking the joint angles, you can proceed to the construction of the walls. To control the verticality of the plane of the enclosing surfaces, you can use a cord. Drive a nail into the seam of the uppermost row of the corner, onto which to tie the end of the cord, then pull the rope with a slight sag to the adjacent corner.
Advice! Sagging will be necessary so that the cord wraps around each nail fixed in the seam. By fastening the rope with a step as often as possible, you can often control the evenness of the plane of the wall being erected and spend less time and energy on leveling the bricks.
After several rows have been laid, it is necessary to make the seams with the help of a special tool - this must be done immediately, until the cement mortar has finally hardened. Correctly done jointing will help give a complete look to your structure, and reinforcing brickwork will strengthen the structure.
In conclusion, I would like to add that it is good to lay masonry when the air temperature does not drop below +10 C. At the same time, it is recommended to perform work in dry weather and only in the warm season. Experienced masons advise kneading the solution exactly on the amount of material that is able to "overpower" at a time. Otherwise, the structure of the sand-cement mixture will be disrupted by the addition of water and lose its binding properties.
The rest should adhere to the tips and recommendations given above.