What is foundation drainage. Foundation drainage - the main types and technologies of installation

The work on the manufacture of this type of drainage is quite laborious, because it is required to select a large amount of soil and then to fill in rubble and sand in its place.

To properly make a drainage around the house, start its production should be with marking. For this, the perimeter is measured and a rope or building cord is pulled along its edges. After that you can proceed to soil sampling. Since the insulated slab foundation is a finely buried structure, the depth of the soil should not exceed 0.5 meters. As a rule, only the fertile soil layer is removed. Further, to the bottom of the pit geotextiles laid   and wraps around its edges. After that, they start backfilling and tamping.   sand cushions. Sand must be rammed with a mechanical vibrator. After a layer of sand, it is poured into the pit, leveled and rammed. crushed stone.

Along with the laying of crushed stone, it is laid along the perimeter of the pit drain pipe   with observance of the necessary bias. At the corners of the future foundation, inspection wells are installed to maintain the system. The slope of the drainage pipe must be at least two degrees.

As a result, it should turn out that the drainage pipe is inside the crushed stone layer. If necessary, pipes can additionally be laid in several more places, this will strengthen the protection of the foundation from moisture.

At the outlet of the pipes of the drainage system, a receiving well is installed. This completes the work with the drainage system and you can proceed with further work on the foundation.

The main mistakes in the manufacture of drainage

In order to properly make the foundation drainage, it is necessary to know the basic mistakes made when installing it.

The most common mistake when building a drainage system is its combination with drainsgoing from the roof of the building. This cannot be done for the simple reason that in the autumn period, with a large amount of precipitation, the drainage system may not be able to cope with the removal of a large amount of water and begin to work in the reverse mode.

This will certainly affect the soil moisture and it turns out that all work on the drainage and drainage of the site will be in vain.

The second common problem is failure to comply with required drainage slope. As a result of this, blockages constantly occur in the system, and it cannot function normally.

Third is the use of drainage pipes without an additional filter winding, which also affects the timing of clogging of the system.

Output

Independent manufacture of a drainage system is advantageous only in the case of deep ring drainage made along the outer perimeter of a finished one, since the work on it does not require the use of special equipment.
  In the case of reservoir drainage, all work is much more complicated and requires certain skills from the master, as well as the presence of special tools, such as a level and a vibrator.

Useful video

How to install a drainage system for groundwater and a roof drainage system:

In contact with

Starting work on building a house, you need to have an idea about all the stages of the construction, including how to properly make the foundation drainage. The reliability of the entire structure depends on the quality of the foundation.

The drainage system is used to strengthen the base in case of an adverse type of soil, or in conditions of frequent rainfall, and there are two types:

Wall drainage system

House drainage

It is necessary to drain melt, groundwater and other waters and protect the structure from their harmful effects. With high-quality installation of drainage, the service life of the building is significantly increased, since it prevents the accumulation of moisture, the formation of mold and other adverse factors that lead to the destruction of the house.

Wall drainage is an angled system consisting of closed pipes. The corners of the structure are equipped with inspection wells. Wells are necessary to eliminate blockages that may occur during operation.

With the help of drainage, the hydrostatic and mechanical pressure of soil water on the foundation is removed.

Ring drainage system

Ring type drainage

This drainage system is not mounted near the surface of the walls, but at a certain distance from them (about 3m). This drainage is used in the absence of the possibility of using a wall type and an installed blind area.

In the absence of waterproofing the walls, or the presence of a reinforced concrete base, it is worth making a choice in favor of wall drainage, otherwise you will not get the desired result.

The consequences of lack of drainage

The presence of a drainage system is simply necessary, otherwise the effect of moisture on the base of the house will lead to its destruction. The consequences will manifest themselves gradually in the form of a skew of the walls, the roof and the entire structure. That is, over time, the probability of a house fall is high.

Drainage pipes

To create a drainage system, there are many materials that are sold in hardware stores. The most used are corrugated polyethylene pipes that bend well. The walls of such pipes are equipped with holes (perforations) necessary for the passage of water into them and further entry into the catchment.

Pipe laying is carried out at a depth of up to 3 meters, and the service life exceeds half a century. They are mounted both before waterproofing and after. Diameter varies from 5 to 20 cm.

If there is a great possibility of penetration of foreign particles into the pipe, and, accordingly, there is a high probability of clogging, an additional winding from the geo sheet is required.

Geopolit

Geotextile   Geotexil has recently been rapidly gaining popularity in the construction industry. It is produced using a woven or non-woven method from polymer fibers. Since the raw material is environmentally friendly, the final material is also environmentally friendly.

Geopolotny has a number of the following advantages:

• resistance to chemical attack;
• lack of reaction resulting from thermal oxidation;
• not subject to rotting, mold and fungal diseases;
• due to its structure, it is geo-protected from attacks by rodents and plant sprouting.

This material is used in cases where filtration, separation, drainage and protection of the drainage system are necessary.

Self-assembly of the drainage system

Materials for work

Ring drainage   Thinking about building your own house, it is necessary to provide a drainage system, otherwise the life of the structure will be minimal.

It is worth approaching this task with maximum responsibility and it is advisable to entrust all work to specialists. However, having acquired the necessary theoretical base, you can cope on your own.

1. A sand cushion is made at the bottom of the ditch;
2. Pipe installation is carried out at an angle of 1 cm per meter;
3. Pipe cutting is carried out with a hacksaw for metal, then the sections are connected by means of a press fit and the joints are sealed with glue, followed by winding with electrical tape;
4. Having laid and formed the pipeline, the ditch must be covered with 30 cm of a layer of fine gravel, then a layer of filtering geo-canvas spreads;
5. An unperforated collector is installed on top of the entire structure, which is attached to the drainpipes using fittings;
6. The last step is the tamping of the upper soil layer covering the entire structure. If there is a likelihood of abundant water flows, it is necessary to provide a crushed stone mound of large or medium fractions.

On this, the drainage work is considered completed, and in the future you can not worry about the safety of your own home.

How to make the foundation drainage

An important functional purpose of the foundation drainage is the timely drainage of the foundation of the house, protection from damage caused by excessive dampness, mold, freezing.

As well as preventing flooding of basements and cellars, the formation of puddles from precipitation, melt and groundwater on footpaths around the building.

Drainage is able to reliably protect the foundation from flooding by groundwater.

An effective modern drainage system along the perimeter of the foundation extends the life of residential buildings, commercial buildings and structures of various types.

What is drainage and why is it needed

Drainage is a closed drainage system located at a certain angle below the level of the base of the foundation. All pipes are interconnected by special wells for the discharge of effluents.

To install the foundation drainage, wear-resistant double-layer corrugated pipes with a diameter of up to 110 mm and external gutters for effective water drainage are used.

High-quality drainage provides for fast and safe drainage of water from the infield and the foundation. It protects the base of the building, basement and technical rooms from flooding caused by groundwater and meltwater, rainfall and runoff.

Drains correctly laid in earthen trenches around the perimeter of the building are able to divert excess water, prevent the appearance of damp, fungus and the destruction of load-bearing walls.

The complexity of the installation of drainage directly depends on the type of soil and the terrain on which the building is located, as well as the depth of the flow of groundwater.

What types are

According to the installation method, the modern drainage system is divided into two types: indoor and outdoor.

Closed drainage is installed in a traditional and combined way, which provides for the additional installation of drainage channels and pipes.

Outdoor drainage is simpler and more accessible with respect to installation and maintenance, requires the preparation of shallow earthen drainage trenches along the perimeter of the site, interconnected by protective gratings.

According to the method of draining, the drainage can be divided into the following types:

• Perfect. The system provides lateral and upper discharge of sewage into the drainage. Sprinkling of such drainage is carried out in the direction of groundwater intake;
• Imperfect. This type of system is installed above the level of the water stop. This implies upper, lower and lateral entry of groundwater and sewage into the system, and drainage is sprinkled from all sides.

In terms of functionality, the foundation drainage can be of several types:

This type of drainage system is also known as a trench. The distance from the foundation to the drainage is 1-3.5 meters.

Suitable for sites located on clay soils and loams, as well as for buildings that do not have basement floors, basements, garages and other technical rooms.

A clay layer is laid between the annular (trench) drainage and the base of the house, which prevents flooding of the structure.

Distinctive features of the ring drainage system:

• A similar drainage system is presented in the form of a semi-enclosed ring with a moisture-resistant inner part;
• The installation of the system is carried out below the level of the base of the premises for which drainage is provided;
• The distance between the drains and the wall of the building is 3 meters. With highly permeable soils, the depth of the pipe laying is up to 100 cm, on weak soils - up to 200 cm.

This type of system is designed to protect buildings with basement floors, basement and technical rooms located on soils with a high content of clay and sand.

Do-it-yourself laying of the wall drainage system is carried out at the stage of foundation construction. For buildings of any type, fundamental drainage is carried out along the perimeter of the base, in the outer corners of the pipe they are connected to the inspection wells, and at the lowest point - with a well for pumping waste water.

Additionally, a protective clay lock is installed to effectively remove excess moisture. The distance between it and the outer walls of the building is 100 cm.

Distinctive characteristics of the wall system:

• It is often used with a mixed type of underground water source;
• Drainage is carried out along the perimeter of the building at a distance that does not exceed the width of the foundation;
• The system is laid down not lower than the level of the foundation foundation;

It is used in combination with a ring and wall system. It is used for a large number of underground sources on any soil, especially clay and loam.

Reservoir drainage can be connected to the external drainage system using connecting pipes laid through the foundation of the building. Especially effective is such a method of drainage for a pile foundation, which can be done with your own hands.

Drainage pattern

For all types of foundations, the classical scheme of the drainage system is used.

It provides for the laying of drainage pipes with a diameter of up to 110 mm along the perimeter of the base of the building. Each drain is mounted at an angle of up to 8 degrees, and at the outer corners of the perimeter it is connected to rotary wells.

At the output of the system is a well equipped with a pump for pumping effluents. A similar scheme is intended to equip the drainage of the strip foundation, pile, columnar, slab and other types of foundations.

The foundation drainage device consists of elements such as:

• Pipes for drainage with perforation;
• A layer of crushed stone;
• Geotextile;
• Protective layer of gravel;
• Drainage wells.

Preparatory work

Before you do the laying of the foundation drainage with your own hands, you need to perform a set of preparatory work. They are carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. First you need to dig the base of the building. The outer part of the foundation is cleaned of the earth and the old waterproofing layer (if any), left to dry.
2. The outer part of the foundation is treated with a special primer based on bitumen and kerosene.
3. After priming, the base is covered with bitumen mastic, resistant to groundwater.
4. A special masking net with mesh sizes of 2.5 × 2.5 mm is installed in the finished layer of mastic.
5. A day after the mastic dries, an additional protective coating should be done.

After the work on the preparation of the foundation is completed, you can begin to lay the drainage system.

Materials and tools for laying

To properly make the laying of the drainage system with your own hands, you should prepare the main set of materials and tools:

• Perforated drainage pipes made of PVC, PND, PP, NDPE. They are available with the necessary equipment. The degree of pipe stiffness is selected taking into account parameters such as speed and volume of groundwater;
• Crushed stone;
• Sand;
• Wells of rotary type;
• Plastic barrel with perforation for pumping drains;
• Pump;
• Clamps for pipes;
• Geotextile;
• Scoop and bayonet shovels;
• Pickaxe
• Electric rotary hammer;
• Cart for transportation of bulk materials.

Self build

How to do the installation of a foundation drainage system with your own hands? The whole process is carried out in several stages:

1. Along the perimeter of the building at a distance of 1.5 meters from the foundation, it is necessary to make a trench at an angle of 8 degrees. Earthwork is carried out taking into account the highest point. The width of the trench should be 35 cm greater than the width of the pipes. When choosing the depth of the trench, parameters such as: the height of the finished foundation, the depth of its laying and the groundwater level are taken into account.
2. At the outer corners of the trench, special extensions are provided for the installation of rotary wells.
3. A protective layer of sand is poured to the bottom up to 25 cm high and is well compacted.
4. Geotextile strips are laid out on the sand layer so that the edges of the sections protrude beyond the trench.
5. Then a layer of gravel of a large fraction is filled up to a height of 20 cm.
6. Now you can install drainage pipes with a slight slope in relation to the lowest point of the system. In bends, special bends are installed for the installation of rotary wells. Pipes are securely fixed with copper clamps.
7. In the final part of the system, up to a depth of 0.6 meters, such an important element as a well for pumping sewage is installed. The bottom of the pit for the sewage well is lined with geotextiles, then a plastic container with perforated walls is installed and covered with gravel. A drainage pump is mounted in the prepared waste tank.
8. All connecting pipes of the system are led to the collection well at an angle.
9. The installed drainage pipes are covered with crushed stone, after which the ends of the geotextile are connected and secured with reliable fasteners.
10. Branches or small boards are laid on top of the geotextile to provide additional rigidity. Further, the trench is covered with sand and soil so that a subtle hill is formed.

On this, the process of installing the drainage with one's own hands is considered completed, and the system is completely ready for operation.

Foundation drainage: device, types, do-it-yourself installation

  Drainage is a closed drainage system located at a certain angle below the level of the base of the foundation. All pipes are interconnected by special wells for the discharge of effluents.

DIY foundation drainage

Close groundwater or a large accumulation of moisture in the soil have a negative effect on any building, especially on the foundation. Therefore, to eliminate excess moisture, it is necessary to carry out activities related to the installation of a drainage system. It is not so difficult to make the foundation drainage if you know the features of its installation and the technology of the work.

The need for drainage for the foundation and its function

Even the deep occurrence of groundwater in some cases requires the arrangement of drainage, in each case a large number of factors are considered. In some situations, drainage around the foundation is necessary in any case. Here is some of them:

• With a large depth of the basement, when it is below the groundwater level, or from the basement floor to them less than half a meter;
• If the basement is equipped in loamy or clay soil, the level of groundwater passage in this case is not taken into account;
• With a depth of underground rooms of more than 1-1.5 meters in a loamy or clay soil;
• If the place where the building is located is a capillary humidification zone.

Based on the foregoing, it can be concluded that drainage is necessary when groundwater is located in a critical proximity to the building, or pass high enough, giving the impression of a marshland, on which there is no vegetation. There is no need to equip such a system when the soil is dry, and even in the rainy season, the groundwater level does not rise to critical levels.

The main functions of the drainage system include:

• Protection against flooding of the building located on the site;

• Providing reliable waterproofing of the foundation;
• Prevention of waterlogging of the territory;
• Timely removal of excess water;
• Reducing the degree of heaving of the soil;
• Reducing the pressure of the frozen soil layer on the foundation of the building in winter;

If the right choice of type of drainage is made, and the design is carried out in accordance with the design, then pipes and wells included in the drainage system will significantly reduce the likelihood of crevices and cracks in the foundation, improving its strength characteristics.

Types of drainage

Depending on the installation depth of the drainage system, there are wall drainage of the foundation:

• Deep, mounted strictly below the level of soil freezing, taking into account the depth of groundwater, or taking into account the degree of drainage of the soil layers;

• Surface drainage has the function of collecting storm and sewage. This type of design is most often used to protect the tape foundations from moisture, and its installation is carried out along the entire perimeter of the blind area. The system of such a water disposal involves the removal of raindrops that flow down the walls of the building, fall onto the blind area, and from there into the drainage system.

Each of these types of drainage can be either ring type or reservoir type.

The ring type scheme is a closed loop encircling the building around the perimeter. With a deep installation system, such a structure can also be laid radially along the entire plane of the structure.

It is most expedient to build reservoir drainage in the case of the Foundation for construction of the "Swedish plate" type. It is laid at a level lower than the foundation plane. A feature of the technology of its laying is that drainage pipes are laid on a sand-gravel cushion, on top of which are covered with a foundation slab.

Necessary tools and materials

To make the foundation drainage with your own hands, you will need such tools and materials as:

• Pipes for drainage, usually with a diameter of 100 - 1120 mm, with transverse stiffeners that prevent bursting and ensure proper load distribution;
• Wells, which can be either viewing (most often made of plastic and installed at the corners of the foundation) or receiving (of which the water gradually goes into the soil, and their location is the territory outside the site);
• Stormwater - designed to divert rainwater from the foundation, and have a semicircular shape;

• Geotextile is its function of filtering water, which enters the drainage system. It is a special fabric, the structure of which is made up of polypropylene yarns, unique in their characteristics.

Work technology

It is quite simple to make the foundation drainage with your own hands, for this you need to adhere to certain rules of its construction, depending on the type of building foundation.

Slab foundation

Slab foundation drainage consists of the following stages:

• A drainage well is installed 20 meters from the building;

• The depth of laying the intake pipe is estimated and the maximum permissible level of laying the pipes is determined;

• Then the pipe is laid, which gradually falls asleep, until it is firmly fixed, after which it is completely covered with backfill;
• The next step is backfilling of sand 10 cm thick, after which it is filled with water and rammed;
• Next is another layer of geotextile, to prevent mixing of layers, filtering water and prevent capillary suction of moisture;
• A layer of gravel poured on top is compacted, and on top it is covered with areas of not covered geotextile;
• Two layers of EPSS are laid, 50 mm each;
• Then the formwork structure is mounted and coated with a 6 mm thick film;
• Then, to strengthen the strength characteristics, reinforcement is installed and concrete pouring is performed.

Column (pile) foundation

Pile foundation drainage is done in this way:

• A 20 cm layer of sand, gravel is laid in a ditch dug around the perimeter of the building, and a drainage pipe is placed on top;
• A layer of crushed stone of 30 cm is again poured from above, and geotextiles are laid;
• Everything is covered with earth.

Rules for organizing a drainage system

After completing all the work, it is necessary to make wells into which excess water will flow. There are some rules for their installation:

• They are most often located in places of construction angles;
• For a medium-sized house, usually 4 viewing and 2 reception wells are sufficient;

Installation of the drainage system is done at a distance of 1.5 - 3 meters from the foundation. The slope should be in the direction of the main receiving well, its beginning should be from the far corner well.

To make your foundation protected from moisture and precipitation, groundwater, you should use the most suitable drainage system, choosing its type depending on the base and soil characteristics.

High-quality drainage, made according to the rules, can reliably protect the house from flooding, prevent the formation of excess moisture, mold and mildew on the walls of the basement or basement, and also extend the life of the entire house.

Foundation drainage

  Do-it-yourself foundation drainage Nearby groundwater or a large accumulation of moisture in the soil will negatively affect any building, especially the foundation. Therefore for

Do-it-yourself foundation drainage: instructions for slab, strip, and columnar foundations

Hoarfrost on the walls of the baths, mold and damp inside - this is a sure sign that the foundation drainage and stormwater drainage were not done in a timely manner. And this situation is especially dangerous when there is a high level of groundwater on the site - then the dampness in the bathhouse and destructive mold on the foundation are provided! It can be saved from everything only by high-quality drainage around the foundation.

What is drainage?

The word "drainage" comes from "drain" - "pipe". In fact, the wall drainage of the foundation is a closed system, which is inclined and located below the level of the base of its filling. The drainage pipes themselves are interconnected at the corners of the bath with special “inspection wells”. It works like this: the excess water that accumulates over time in the soil falls into the drainage pipes, and through them into the collection well, and already from it, by pumping it into the ditch.

As for drainage pipes, it is better not to get corrugated flexible pipes for this purpose - in some ways they are good, but it is extremely difficult to maintain the required slope. Much better than ordinary orange sewer pipes, in which it is easy to drill as many holes as you like.

And the gutters are used to divert atmospheric water from the foundation - and they are protected with the help of cast-iron gratings.

How to design a drainage system?

How effective the foundation drainage device will turn out to depend on the accuracy and literacy of its design, as well as on how high-quality materials were used for this. So, for starters, it is important to calculate the loads that the trays and drains will withstand. And for particularly significant loads, it is better not to take plastic pipes.

It is most rational to develop a drainage system even when designing a steam room. And before that you need to find out:

• Ground water level
• Foundation level
• Soil composition

The last point is especially important - the correct drainage of the foundation must take into account the properties of the soil, and accordingly they select the materials: sand, geotextile, crushed stone fraction and calculate the diameter of the holes in the drainage pipe. The easiest way is to find out all this from a company that has done similar drainage in the neighborhood, namely, what materials they use to work in this area, in what quantity and why.

There is also no universal depth for the drainage system - it directly depends on the depth of the foundation. But usually the drainage system around the bath is done at a distance of one meter from the walls and at a depth just below the foundation itself.

There is one more controversial point: during the arrangement of the drainage by trial and error, many attendants connected the storm pipe to the drainage pipe - it seems to be more convenient. And how would such systems work normally. But, at the same time, it is not recommended to do this according to building standards - after all, storm pipes collect surface water, and drainage - only groundwater. Those. they have different tasks, and such experiments are fraught with consequences.

We arrange drainage in the slab foundation

But how to make the drainage of the foundation plate? Such a foundation is often chosen for a bath due to the fact that thanks to it, you can make a small technical underground and mount all communications there. The voids between them are covered with sand, insulation is laid and everything is covered with a finish screed already on the floor. But there is an important point: water must be diverted from the foundation, especially if the soil itself is water-saturated - and it is on this basis that they most often build a monolithic slab. Yes, and constant dampness in a Russian bathhouse is completely useless ... But there is a way out: this is a good drainage system around the foundation.

Let's take a look at the whole process in steps:

Step 1. So, first you need to determine exactly where the water will be discharged. Usually this is a drainage well 20 meters from the house. It is necessary to evaluate the depth of passage of the water intake pipe in the catchment, and based on this, determine the maximum permissible depth of the pipes around the bathhouse - namely, the depth of laying in the corner of the foundation as the closest to the drainage point. And the total slope of the entire drainage system will be from about 70 cm to 1 meter.

Step 2. Next, the drainage work itself begins - a foundation pit is dug to a depth of 40 cm. The whole cake will be like this: 10 cm of a sand cushion, 20 cm of gravel and 10 cm of insulation of EPS. The stock should be taken 1-1.5 cm from the edges of the plate.

Step 3. Along the entire perimeter of the bathhouse, you need to dig trenches with a slope - 10 cm deeper than it is supposed to lay a drainage pipe. For the convenience of controlling the position of the pipes, you can pull a rope over the trench itself - with the slope that will be needed.

Step 4. Now the trenches are covered with 2 meters wide geotextiles, and a gravel pillow is dumped and rammed over them.

Step 5. A pipe is placed in the trench, and gently it is filled up a little. As soon as it is fixed, the final filling is carried out.

Step 6. Now the entire pit is filled with a ten-meter layer of sand with watering and tamping.

Step 7. Next, the foundation pit is covered with geotextiles - so that the gravel following it does not press into the sand and the layers do not mix. Such a gravel layer will well filter the water and lower it into the drainage wells, and also prevent the effect of the so-called capillary suction of moisture.

Step 8. As soon as the gravel is compacted with a vibrating plate, those parts of the geotextile that protrude along the edges also need to be wrapped again on the gravel. As a result, after tamping, the entire layer will be smooth and homogeneous, the uniformity of the surface will fluctuate + -2 cm.

Step 9. The next step is fit EPSP - 50 mm, in two layers. The first layer will extend beyond the borders of the slab by 30 cm, and the second - a maximum of 5 cm.

Step 10. As soon as the EPS is inserted, the formwork is mounted and the bottom is covered with a 6 meter wide film. The fittings are knitted and the solution is filled.

The drainage pipe itself for these purposes can be purchased in geotextiles or in a coconut winding, which, of course, is more expensive, but more efficient.

How to drain the columnar and strip foundations?

Here's how the drainage system is arranged around other types of foundation:

Step 1. The ditch deepens, and at its bottom is laid: sand - 20 cm, crushed stone and drainage pipe.

The task of the filtration layer is to increase the efficiency of sedimentary water discharge through drainage. They make it from such a filler that would have high water permeability - usually gravel. But to lay the filter layer is possible only after waterproofing the walls of the foundation.

Step 2. Rubble is poured over the pipe again, at least 30 cm, and wrapped in geotextile.

For reference: geotextile is a thin non-woven fabric made of synthetic fibers. It was specially created for laying in the ground - the geotextile passes water well, but it retains small particles of the earth. For the drainage system, this is what is needed.

Step 3. All this is covered with earth. By the way, the drainage itself can go into the ditch along the road - if it is well located. And for this, the same water can be pumped out of the wells forcibly - using pumps.

If the drainage system is designed correctly, then excess moisture that has soaked before the foundation wall will be removed. And most importantly - the drainage system relieves hydrostatic and mechanical pressure on the foundation itself, and such a bath will last much longer than the one that was built “at random”.

How to make do-it-yourself wall drainage around the foundation

Everything about the foundation drainage system: why it is designed, which pipes are better to take and where to divert water, how to organize drainage at the slab and strip foundation.

We will make a reservation right away, drainage and waterproofing are different concepts and one of them does not exclude the other. Drainage around the house (drainage system) allows you to remove or reduce the water level on the site.

The danger lies both outside (rainfall, flood waters) and inside (groundwater). Waterproofing protects the foundation of the building from the ingress of water.

But, even a foundation that is qualitatively isolated from water will not protect the foundation of a private house (basement) and the basement from water ingress for a long time. After all, if the water will push constantly, it will find weaknesses in the waterproofing. And on the contrary, if you take it in time, your house or cottage will be safe.

When you need a drainage system:

• site location. The lower it is, the more urgent the drainage problem;
• soil quality - on clay and loamy soils, the water level decreases slowly;
• rainfall in your area;
• groundwater level;
• deepening of the remaining buildings on the site. If the building next to it has a very deep foundation - the water will have nowhere to go, and it will accumulate on the surface, increasing the risk of flooding;
• the presence of waterproof coatings - concrete walkways, an asphalt yard - these are places inaccessible to water penetration.

Do-it-yourself drainage around the house will eliminate the problems caused by the factors listed above.

Types of drainage systems

Depending on the severity of the problem of flooding the site, there are several ways to make drainage around a private house.

Surface drainage

This type can include storm sewers (stormwater). The advantage of such drainage is that its arrangement is simpler and more accessible after most types of work are completed on the site. Surface drainage systems allow you to divert only rain and melt water, they can not cope with groundwater.

There are two types of surface drainage devices: linear and point.

Linear drainage

It is focused on the removal of storm or melt water from the entire site and from the house, in particular. Water flows into canals dug in the ground and is discharged into a drainage well. As a rule, the channels have a straight linear shape and are closed by gratings.

Spot drainage

It is focused on the fast drainage of water generated from local sources (for example, under roof drains, watering taps, etc.). Point drains are covered with decorative metal gratings to prevent clogging of the channel with debris and leaves. From each point drainage pipes are laid, which are connected to the main main pipe leading to the drainage well.

Combined drainage combines the two aforementioned systems: spot and linear drainage.

According to the method of the device, the drainage can be open and closed.

Outdoor drainage

A system of trenches, gutters, gutters, or catchments.

Such drainage is a trench, which is designed to drain storm and melt water from the house and from the site.

The principle of the open drainage system

A ditch half a meter wide and 50-60 cm deep is dug along all sides of the plot and around the house. All these trenches are connected to a common drainage trench.

In order for the water to flow freely into the trench from the side of the house, a bevel is made in a ditch at an angle of 30 °, and a slope towards the main intake trench (or drain well) will allow gravity to divert water in the desired direction.

The advantage of an open drainage system can be called low cost and high speed of work. But, if you need to drain a large amount of melt and rainwater, you will have to arrange a deep drainage line into which someone can fall. The unfinished walls of the ditches are destroyed. Such a system spoils the appearance of the site.

It is possible to increase the service life and increase the safety of such a system through the use of special trays (made of plastic or concrete), which are covered with grills on top.

Indoor drainage

It has a more aesthetic appearance compared to the previous one, as it is equipped with a protective grill, but the receiving ditch is much narrower and smaller. Their views are presented in the photo.

Backfill - a system of backfilled trenches

It is used when the area of \u200b\u200bthe plot is small and it is impossible or impractical to make open drainage. The disadvantage of this system is the inability to conduct maintenance of the trench after installation without dismantling.

Proper drainage around this type of house is arranged in several stages.

• a trench is dug up to a depth of about a meter with the obligatory observance of a slope towards the drain (drainage) well;

• geotextiles are laid at the bottom of the trench;

• the trench is covered with gravel, rubble, etc .;

• a layer of turf is laid on top. This step is optional, but allows you to give the site a more aesthetic appearance.

Deep drainage

The removal of a large amount of groundwater requires the installation of a thorough system - deep drainage of the site. The device of a deep drainage system is used in areas with clay soil located in a lowland and characterized by a high level of groundwater.

The process of the device is time-consuming and consists in laying pipes (the diameter depends on the amount of water discharged) from perforations into deep trenches (depends on the height of the soil water).

Closed drainage - pipe system

How to make do-it-yourself drainage around the house

Step-by-step instruction for a closed drainage device

• Determine the location of the closed drainage system, which can be implemented in two versions:

1. pass only near the foundation, i.e. around the house (wall drainage), preventing the penetration of water directly into the house.
2. located throughout the site, this will protect the basement of the cottage, as well as plantings and other outbuildings.

The drainage scheme around the house is shown in the photo.

• Mark the location of the drainage ditches in the area. Typically, such devices as a laser rangefinder and a level are used for this. But, you can make it easier to trace where after the rain there are grooves of water - there should be laid drainage trenches.

• Dig trenches. When digging, be sure to observe the height difference. After all, water should drain to the drainage well, and not accumulate in the pipes.

Tip. To check the “operability” of the trench, it is better to wait for heavy rain and see if there are any places of significant accumulation of water.

• Lay geotextile layer. Its role in drainage is to filter water from impurities that can clog the perforation of the drainage pipe.

Tip. If you have clay soil - geotextile is mandatory, if gravel or sand, then it is not necessary.

You can take any geotexil, the main thing is that it passes and filters the water well. It is better not to take dense needle-punched geotextiles, as it does not pass water well.

• Fill the bottom (bottom) of the trench with gravel.

Lay the perforated pipe - the foundation of the drainage system. Pipes can be ceramic or plastic. But in any type of pipe there must be perforation for receiving water (perforation can be done independently, using a drill). Pipes are connected together by means of a cross or a tee. Material prepared for the website www.site

Tip. The perforation of the pipe should be smaller than the size of the smallest gravel particle.

• Bring the ends of the pipe into the inspection wells. Such wells are installed at all turns in order to care for the system. For example, clean the pipe with water pressure or evaluate the change in water level.

Tip. Collecting pipes over a large area of \u200b\u200bthe site should converge into a main pipe (with a diameter of more than 100 mm.), Which will carry the collected water to a drainage well.

Bring the ends of the pipe into the drainage well. This is the last component of a closed drainage system.

According to the functional purpose, drainage wells are divided into two types:

1. accumulating. Such a well has a sealed bottom. Water is accumulated in it and then used for irrigation;
2. absorbing. A well without a bottom, the water in it gradually goes into the soil.

• To fill the geotextile with crushed stone without reaching the upper ground level of 200mm.
• Fill the drainage pipes with crushed stone to a height of 300 mm.
• Wrap the pipes with a geotex overlap and fix the joints with a rope.
• Fill sand, earth and / or lay sod.

Tip. On top of a closed system, you can install surface drainage (storm system) and also bring it to the drainage well.

The sectional drainage system is shown in the photo.

Conclusion

Which of the following types of drainage is suitable for you - you can determine only knowing the features of the site. In general, you should choose the drainage around the house, the cost of the arrangement and operation of which is the lowest, and of course, which you can do yourself. At the same time, it should qualitatively and reliably fulfill the role of a drainage system. Indeed, according to the calculations of experts, proper drainage around the house will extend its life by more than 50 years.

The stability of the structure and the long life of any building directly depends on the quality of its foundation. The foundation is the support of the entire building structure and a reliable foundation that evenly transfers the load on the ground. Not surprisingly, the cost of founding houses sometimes reaches 40% of all construction costs.

The foundation construction begins after taking into account the type of soil (sandstone, clay soil, gravel, sandy loam, etc.), the freezing point of the soil in winter, the choice of the type of foundation and the exact calculation of its size.

The importance of drainage

If the owners did not provide a drainage system during the construction of the house, they will notice the consequences of their mistake very quickly. After a year of operation, dampness will appear in the basement and fungus will spread due to seasonal flooding of the building. After another two or three years, the damp foundation will be covered with cracks that will move to the base and walls.

All these signs are a strong argument in favor of the immediate construction of storm sewers and the installation of a drainage system for the foundation. Typically, these two systems are built simultaneously for a comprehensive solution to problems with excess moisture. Creating a drainage system is as important as.

Drainage will help to drain the foundation, prevent flooding of the basement in the spring and will avoid problems with the repair of the building in the near future.

Building codes

Starting to organize a drainage system, it is necessary to take into account important technical and construction aspects:

• Work is carried out exclusively in the warm season. The optimum period is considered to be from the beginning of June to the end of August, when the air is warm enough, and heavy rains are very rare.
• Arrangement of a drainage system is a rather laborious process. A person working alone will take two to three months to work. A qualified team will cope on average in three to four weeks. For this reason, the owners hire special construction crews.
• If the work is carried out independently, an additional installation of a canopy of polyethylene and boards around the building is required. This precaution will help protect the already dug trenches and the building itself from moisture penetrating the basement in the event of heavy rain.
• In the rainy summer period, the walls of the trenches are reinforced with grids to prevent soil from crumbling into the structure.
• The yard is equipped with a system of gangways (blind area) made of wood, which allows transporting soil and building materials without any fear. This measure is especially relevant if there are lawns or a flower bed.
• For the most accurate design of the drainage system, a preliminary excavation of the foundation is carried out. At this stage, you can accurately determine the depth of the foundation, its shape and size.
• Along the way, information is collected on the points of maximum moisture accumulation and the level of groundwater in a particular area.
• At the next stage, the depth of the laying of pipes and the place for the placement of drainage wells is determined.
• And only after that the list and quantity of building materials becomes apparent.

The following requirements are put forward to the elements of the drainage system:

• The trench delves one meter from the house and 10-30 centimeters below its base (that is, the laying of pipes is below the foundation). The width of the trench should not exceed 35-40 centimeters.
• A sand cushion is necessarily laid at the bottom of the trench and there is a bias towards the catchment areas (about 1 cm per meter).
• Wells (water collectors) are not allowed to be placed at a distance closer than three meters to the house. The best option would be to use a plastic container with a drainage hole at the bottom.
• At the junction of the pipes, it is recommended to place inspection wells. These facilities will assist in flushing the system during operation.
• If a high soil moisture is recorded in the area, several water collectors are installed. They are placed next to each other and connected by pipes.

Work order

The device of the drainage system begins with the preparation of the foundation, which includes:

• digging out the entire base of the house (excavated soil is located on a special construction site, it is used for backfilling);
• digging trenches below the level of the foundation;
• drying the foundation with a gas burner (but it is better if it dries in the fresh air) and cleaning it from the ground and the remnants of the previous waterproofing;
• priming the exterior of the base of the house (bitumen-kerosene mixture);
• applying bitumen mastic;
• laying on fresh bitumen reinforced mesh or geotextile fabric;
• repeated application of mastic (approximately one day after the first layer has completely dried).

Gravel pours out into the dug trench. This is a rather expensive, but high-quality building material that does not shrink and has excellent filtering properties. Each layer of gravel is rammed with a hand roller.

After preparatory work and the arrangement of the gravel filter, you can proceed with the installation of the drainage system:

• a moat is dug around the building (depth below the foundation level, at least thirty centimeters wide, one meter indent from the building);
• sand is filled to the bottom with a slope towards the water collectors (cushion thickness from 5 to 10 centimeters);
• the bottom and walls are lined with geotissue, the edges of which are fixed for a while with pins;
    a layer of gravel ten centimeters thick is poured on top;
• plastic pipes are laid for drainage with perforation (produced already wrapped with geotextile);
    the pipes are covered with a layer of gravel;
• above the filling, the edges of the geotextile combine and stitch them together;
• viewing corners are located in the corners of the building;
• water receivers are located 3-5 meters from the house below the foundation, but above groundwater (in not too
• in wet ground, two water intake wells are sufficient);
• the bottom of all technical pits is lined with geotextiles;
• containers for collecting moisture are sprinkled with gravel, and covered with soil from above (at the bottom of the water collectors
• pre-drilled for two or three holes for water flow);
• connection of pumps is made (if it is provided by the project);
• backfill the entire system with soil.

Tools and materials

For construction work you will need:

• bayonet and shovel;
• hammer and other small construction tools;
• drill for working with water collectors;
• perforated plastic pipes (diameter from 7.5 to 10 cm);
• fittings for assembly of the pipeline and crosspiece for manholes;
• manholes with plastic hatches;
• plastic tanks for collecting water;
• geotextiles in rolls;
• bituminous mastic for foundation processing;
• gravel and sand.

Important points

The device of inspection wells will help in regular cleaning of the pipeline from dirt accumulated inside. Enough four wells with hatches.

Increased soil moisture requires the additional installation of overflow tanks, which serve as reserve tanks and are installed next to the main tanks for collecting water. Main drains are supplied only to the main catchment areas.

It is forbidden to sprinkle water reservoirs with soil. This can lead to deformation of the container or its cracking. Backfill is carried out with fine gravel, which prevents the catchment from soil heaving.

The angle of inclination of the pipes is selected so that the bottom point of the system is 20 cm above the base of the foundation, and the top is the same distance below the floor level in the basement.

Exploitation

A properly constructed drainage system does not require any additional maintenance other than cleaning or flushing pipes with. The procedure is performed depending on the degree of clogging of pipes (drains) once a year or less often with the involvement of specialists.

Everyone understands that not one house can not survive for a long time without a quality foundation. Also, not one foundation can do without good protection against moisture and water. Architects, even when creating the project, propose immediately to provide for the drainage of the foundation of the house and draw a waterproofing system on the diagram.

The Russian proverb is widely known - "Water sharpens a stone." Here it will be by the way, moreover, in its direct understanding. Even the strongest and most solid foundation of a house can easily be destroyed by water. With a high level of groundwater, one external waterproofing (see) simply can not protect the basement from water. In such cases, a whole underground canal system is developed that can withstand the load and keep the foundation dry. The house will have dry air, and a fungus will never start in the basement or basement. The price of this work in specialized firms is high, but you can do everything cheaper on your own.

For installing the foundation drainage with your own hands, special types of pipes are used. They should be suitable for
deep installation in the ground. Having done the foundation drainage with his own hands, the owner of the house will extend its service life by several tens of years.

Before doing this work, the question arises, how to make the foundation drain yourself? This can be done by reading our article to the end and watching a video with step-by-step works. The attached circuits will also help. Of course, not everyone makes such a system in their home, but in vain. There are a number of cases where the installation of drainage is simply necessary:

• if, according to the project, the building will have a basement or basement;
• if the geodesy of the area is characterized by increased soil contraction;
• if the groundwater level is equal to the bayonet of one or less than five shovels;
• if there is a system in the basement of the building that needs to be protected from flooding in any climate.

In the spring or autumn season, the earth saturated with moisture will have a lot of weight. Consequently, the pressure on the foundation will increase. In winter or early spring often frost alternates with a thaw, this greatly affects the foundation of the structure. Water penetrates the smallest cracks, eroding and increasing their size. This can be avoided by organizing a competent drainage system.

In this situation, it is best to turn to specialists who can design a drainage system, but the price for this service is high. In the absence of unnecessary material resources, this can be done by ourselves. It is important to understand that the diverted water should not accumulate in puddles on the site or paths. It is better if she will completely leave your territory.

Types and types of drainage

Modern drainage can be of two types:

1. Perfect drainage. It is made on the waterproof. Water gets into this type of drainage from above and from the side. This means that this type should be sprinkled from above and from the sides.
2. Imperfect drainage. It is made above the level of waterproofing. Water enters into it both from above and from below and from the side, which means that the sprinkling of such a foundation should be on all sides.

Video on the device:

Today, there are several types of drainage from the foundation of a separate building:

Ring foundation drainage.   It is used to prevent flooding of basements of detached buildings built on sandy soil. Water easily penetrates through this type of soil, and only ring drainage can save. What is important to consider when choosing this type of drainage:

• the effect of such drainage implies a ring, the inner part of which will be isolated from water;
• if water comes from one specific side, then it is possible to lay such a drainage in the form of an open circle;
• such a system is mounted below the floor level of that basement which must be protected from moisture;
• to lay such a system should be at a distance of 5-8 meters from the wall itself. If this distance is less, then it is necessary to take care of the removal, weakening or subsidence of the soil of the building itself.

Wall drainage. Such drainage is used to prevent flooding of basement floors and basements of buildings built on clay or loamy soil. Water penetrates through such soil is quite difficult. What is important to know when choosing this type:

• It is often used as a prophylaxis against water;
• Such a drainage system is often used with a mixed source of groundwater;
• Lay such drainage outside the building. The distance from the wall to the drainage system is equal to the width of the foundation of the building itself.
• Such a system is laid not lower than the level of the sole of the foundation;
• If the depth of the foundation is too large, then the drainage may be slightly higher.

Reservoir drainage.   This type of drainage is usually used in combination with a ring or wall. What is important to know when choosing such a system:

• it is advisable to use such a system with a large amount of groundwater on any type of soil;
• have during prevention in clay and loamy soil;
• for the interaction of such a system with external drainage, a special pipe is laid through the entire foundation of the structure.

The main difference, of course, in ring drainage from wall drainage is that it is located directly near the foundation itself. A roundabout —   to a distance of 3 meters from the foundation. Otherwise, in principle, they are similar.

What is a classic drainage system?

The drainage system is a system of pipes that are interconnected and have a closed device system. They lay the drainage system with their own hands below the lowest point of the building level. The entire device is laid at a certain angle so that the water drains.

At each corner section of such a system, a reservoir is made, which is called a well. These wells are installed in order to visually assess the state of drainage and if there is a need to easily clean the system.

All excess water falls into the pipe structure, of which into the wells. From such wells, water is discharged outside the site. The method of water drainage from the building depends on which drainage project will be selected.

Such a system easily eliminates the mechanical load from groundwater. It is worth noting that even with the most proper drainage system, it is difficult to avoid humidity in the basement, especially on the walls at 100%.

To completely eliminate the ingress of water into the device, which is below the ground level, waterproofing the foundation itself is necessary.

Classic drainage system

The classic scheme of the drainage system with your own hands is the system around the foundation of the house. Drains are set at an angle of 5-8 degrees. The entire structure along the perimeter is surrounded by such a system, starting from the highest point to the lowest. At the end there is a drainage well in which the pump is located.

When constructing such a system with their own hands, pipes with a stiffness of SN6 or more are used, but by no means less!

The entire system around the perimeter is equipped with backup wells. At each angle of 90 degrees, it is necessary to install such wells with sludge collectors. Otherwise, the system will often get silted up. Each type of foundation has its own drainage features.

How to do the installation of the system yourself?

Ground water level

Of course, before doing any construction work, make up its project. Having drawn up a project, it will be easier to calculate the material spent and calculate how much the work will cost. The price of such a project in firms is high. But you can greatly reduce the price by calculating everything yourself.

Then you need to find out the occurrence of groundwater in your area. To do this, you can use special equipment or call specialists. This can be done independently.

To determine the water level, dig a test hole in the area, approximately 2.5 meters deep. You will be able to see the soil layers. See their structure, as well as their character. Only then can you start your main job.

Building foundation preparation

The foundation itself also needs careful preparation before creating a drainage system. For this:

1. We dig around the old foundation and clean off all the remains of waterproofing from it. If they certainly are.
2. Dry the foundation. This can be done using a heat gun or on a sunny and warm day, then the foundation will dry on its own (but it will be much longer and may take a day — two).
3. Now apply a new waterproofing:

• smear;
• penetrating;
• from polyethylene;
• okleechnoy (bitumen)

For a shallow foundation

For this type of foundation, it is best to do drainage at the initial stage of construction according to the scheme. You need to arrange the pipes around the perimeter from the outside from the foundation in a circle. Swarming a trench no deeper than the bottom of your foundation. Wells are being dug in the corners, which will contain water tanks.

Monolithic foundation drainage

Such a foundation is built from monolithic watered. The plate is able to move when the soil moves. With such movements, the structure itself can also move. To prevent this, it is worth considering a drainage system at the design stage of the house. The stove can become a reliable foundation for your home, only with a high-quality drainage system.
  When constructing such drainage, a moat is dug around the house, into which the drainage system itself will be laid. The moat swarm at least 3 meters from the stove. The bottom of such a trench is covered with a brick battle. Then install the perforated drainage pipes themselves. From above they are covered with geotextiles, which will fulfill the role of waterproofing. At the same time they make water outlets.

Strip foundation drainage

The system of such drainage practically does not differ from the system of all other types of foundation. A moat is dug around the house around the perimeter of the foundation, the depth of which should exceed the depth of the foundation itself. Then a broken brick is also laid at the bottom. Make an overlap of the branches, which will strengthen the main overlap. Then everything is according to the general rules for dismantling.

DIY drainage system

Equipment

You will need:

• from low pressure polyethylene (HDPE);
• from polyvinyl chloride (PVC);
• from polypropylene (PP);
• high density polyethylene (NDPE).

They are released with a complete set for them. They differ in rigidity and holes (full or partial perforation). You need to choose depending on the rigidity of the flow of groundwater.
  The price of them varies depending on the manufacturer from 1000 to 3000. It all depends on the type and manufacturer of pipes.
  If the price scares you, you can make pipes yourself from PVC pipes. Just drilled holes in them around the perimeter.

1. Crushed stone or brick fight. Crushed stone will cost more, but will also last a long time.
2. Sand. Suitable ordinary river.
3. Plastic barrel (for an absorption well). The larger the barrel, the larger and deeper the final hole for the drain should be. This question can be studied in more detail in.
4. Swivel wells (Special accessories for drainage pipes or PVC pipes with a diameter of 30 cm and more);
5. Copper clamps for PVC pipes
6. Geotextile

Phased installation

The work itself is done in several stages:

Your drainage system is ready. But do not forget that without waterproofing the main foundation during its laying, it is impossible to completely protect your structure from moisture.