Underground garage with your own hands and technology. How to build a house underground How to build an underground house
The owner of a small plot of land is especially interested in its rational use. The construction of a detached or attached "motor house" in such conditions is an unforgivable waste, because you will have to sacrifice at least 30 sq.m. precious space. This is where the useful experience of foreign neighbors comes to the rescue, who have long been practicing the construction of underground garages, both for low-rise and high-rise buildings. The benefit is obvious: the "car stable" is the ground floor of the main building, thereby significantly saving space on the site.
But, despite the attractiveness of such a garage design, many car owners have quite logical doubts:
- How much more expensive will the "subway" cost?
- How to ensure comfortable conditions for the machine and the person in it?
- How to build an underground garage so that they are not afraid to use the premises in bad weather conditions (snow, ice, rain)?
The questions are serious and require detailed familiarization with the topic. We hasten to reassure you: a solid individual underground garage built by yourself is not a dream, but a completely feasible project. Of course, if you approach it from the position of strict implementation of all prescribed building canons.
We think and choose: a house project with an underground garage
If you are looking for a suitable project for a private house with an underground garage, then most likely you have already reviewed a lot of photos of finished samples on the Internet. In order not to be distracted by design "tricks" and architectural "gadgets", we will help you summarize the search results. There are two ways of arranging the "car subway":
- Underground garage located completely underground
- The underground garage is partially “drowned” into the ground (usually 1/2 or 2/3 of its height)
The second option is more popular among the people, as it is cheaper and more practical in terms of the execution of the plan. The main problem of underground premises is the fight against dampness. The deeper the garage is hidden, the more “barriers”: increased soil pressure and the negative impact of groundwater (especially considering that the average depth of the aquifer for our region is 1.5-2 m).
ATTENTION!
Where can I find all the necessary requirements for the planned construction? In SNiP, underground garages are described in detail: all the key conditions under which their normal operation is guaranteed are indicated. Recommendations for the wiring of all engineering networks are also documented here (SNiP 21-02-99 “Parking lots”).
We want to draw your attention to an important aspect of the CORRECT project of a house with an underground garage:
- The room located above the underground "motor house" should be fenced with a thicker and additionally reinforced floor slab. It cannot be equipped as a LIVING ROOM
Unfortunately, a large proportion of virtual projects posted on the Internet for everyone to see ignore this norm. Bedrooms are placed above the "subway", which is grossly contrary to safety standards. The garage belongs to the category of explosive premises, therefore, a residential building with such a technical zone is planned so that in the event of an emergency, people will not be injured in any way.
As for the possibility of arranging a combined dwelling of a person and a machine, there is a clear rule under which such a neighborhood is impossible:
- LPG vehicles cannot be stored in public buildings, including individual underground garages
As can be seen from the two specified norms, much attention is paid to the fire safety of the technical room in the rules. The SNiP indicates the fire resistance levels for the walls and gates of the underground garage: І 90 and І 60, respectively.
The next rule for the normal operation of the "subway" is the correct entry into its interior. If in a virtual picture everything can look compact and very beautiful, then in practice the car owner will feel all the inconveniences of an erroneously designed road path.
What should be the entrance to the underground garage?
The main decoration of a private house is a beautifully landscaped garden plot. By building an underground garage, the car owner is trying to save free space for the landscape, so he decides to equip a steep short entrance to the parking lot. If in summer and dry weather the car calmly copes with an obstacle, then in a snowy winter or rainy autumn the “barrier” may not be taken. Snow will quickly fill up the “hole”, and streams of water will flow into such a tempting “reservoir”.
Here are a number of requirements for entering the "subway", following which you will not encounter any difficulties during its year-round operation:
- The slope of the entrance road should not exceed a certain value
- The deeper the underground garage is in the ground, the longer the driveway.
- The entrance is a broken path
- The road path is made of non-slip materials
- Be sure to provide a footpath with a handrail along the wall
- At the gates of the underground garage, it is necessary to provide a storm sewer
- Retaining walls are built on the sides of the entrance
It is clear that the steeper down, the less space the technical zone will take. Don't overdo it! The maximum slope of the entrance road for the underground garage is 140-150 (or as a percentage - 25%). An increase in the angle will lead to problems during its operation in the autumn-winter-spring period.
A sufficient length of the "finish" will help to avoid all weather troubles. Almost no one adheres to the ideal parameters of the entrance, because the bar is high: for example, for an underground garage lowered by 1.30 m, the entrance should be 14.4 m long! A clear calculation allows you to shorten it by almost half (up to 8.4 m, of which 3 m is the “starting” horizontal zone).
The minimum length of the entrance garage road is divided into three mandatory sections:
- "starting" zone: 3 meters with a slope of 00-20
- zone "X": part of the road with a maximum slope of 140-150 (50% of the total length of the entrance)
- "red" zone: obligatory 1.20 m of horizontal section in front of the garage door
All changes should be smooth, without sharp boundaries.
For an ideal entrance to the "subway" before and after the section with a maximum slope, sections of the path with an average slope (70-80) should be equipped. In their length, they should be slightly shorter than the "X" zone (≈75-80% of it).
It is advisable to supplement it with special serifs that help to overcome the route when the track is iced. Special braking strips for wheels are popular.
The footpath will help the driver get to the "surface" quickly and without injury, even with an icy road.
The sewer grate, into which water flows, should be located in front of the gate on a direct section of the entrance (it should be at least 0.5 m of a straight section of the path), which will protect the garage from falling into the middle of rain streams. Storm sewage with a siphon is equipped with a heating cable that prevents it from freezing.
They protect the entrance road from destruction and collapse of the soil. According to the rules of SNiP, a ground drop of more than 80 requires such a protective structure.
In order to effectively solve the problem of icing on the road, it is desirable to install a system that prevents the formation of ice on the road section. Do not forget to provide entrance lighting for convenience.
How to build an entrance road for an underground garage?
The construction process is divided into the following stages:
To avoid failure of the pavement, the geometry of the road is formed without adding soil. To do this, each "step" is carefully cut to the desired level, guided by the prepared mark (stretched fishing line).
The prepared and “cut out” area is covered with crushed stone with a layer of 15 cm and carefully tamped
The bearing layer is made of concrete grade B10 with a thickness of 12-15 cm. The solution is kneaded thick and viscous. After the first setting, the surface is constantly moistened and protected from the sun.
Then comes any finish
We figured out the entrance in detail, now we will move on to arranging the underground garage itself, namely protecting it from a water “attack”.
How to effectively protect the "underground" from dampness?
STEP #1: WATERPROOFING THE UNDERGROUND GARAGE
The construction of the built-in "subway" implies an additional load on the foundation of the house. Usually the owner prefers to lower the entire floor, rather than part of the building, by dividing the entire space into several technical zones (parking, workshop, gym, etc.).
Most often, the project provides for a slab ribbed foundation, which increases the stability of the building. But it all depends on the main building material and the design calculations of the architect (we once again insist that the design should be carried out by a specialized specialist).
When building an underground garage with their own hands, the car owner must take care of comfortable living conditions for his iron friend. It is necessary to protect the room from the slightest water "assaults", because excessive moisture is detrimental to the car.
How to waterproof an underground garage?
The walls of the "subway" are designed by analogy with retaining walls: a drainage system is equipped along the outer contour of the room, and the entire outer surface is waterproofed with built-up waterproofing (for example, roofing material or its modern counterparts). Additionally, a massive filter pad is formed under the floor and on the sides of the "subway".
The complexity of the drainage system is determined by the results of survey work that determines the type of soil and the level of the aquifer. Geological exploration will tell you whether it is rational to build a “subway”, because if the groundwater is too high, then you will have to drain the site and complicate the drainage scheme. And this is a significant additional cost.
ATTENTION!
Liquid waterproofing for interiors is not a panacea for all problems. With its help it is impossible to equip an effective water barrier. It only plays the role of an aid. If, after the construction of an underground garage, water appeared in it, then no putty will correct the situation.
STEP #2: VENTILATE THE UNDERGROUND GARAGE
You can often hear complaints that due to the presence of a built-in underground "motor house", the unpleasant smell of gasoline and other chemicals penetrates into the residential area. So that the garage does not "poison" your life, you should take care of a constant air vortex for this technical room.
The norms for the intensity of air exchange in the "autohouse" are prescribed in SNiP: 180 cubic meters. m per hour per car. Abroad, the requirements are even higher - 360 cubic meters. m per hour. Only the well-coordinated work of supply and exhaust ventilation can provide such a “wind”. Brief ventilation under the gate opener will not solve the problem.
Ventilation not only protects against exhaust gases, but also removes excess moisture from the room. This is especially true for heated garages, where the temperature difference between a cold car and a relatively warm room (no more than +50C) will inevitably cause condensation on the body. A stable supply of fresh air will quickly remove dampness and save the car from premature corrosion.
Since the level of the underground garage is below the ground, forced mechanisms are necessary for effective ventilation. There are two options for its arrangement:
1. Monoblock
In this device, two blocks are connected, responsible for the inflow and exhaust of air. The monoblock is distinguished by its compact dimensions and ease of installation, but the cost is expensive (from 2000 USD). But the atmosphere inside the room is perfect.
2. Modular design
Consists of two separate blocks responsible for air supply and exhaust. Their joint work is established with the help of sensors that monitor the microclimate of the technical room.
ATTENTION!
All cables in the underground "car house" must be covered with a special layer of insulation that prevents combustion. Also, the car owner is obliged to install a fire alarm.
The construction of an underground garage is sometimes a rather topical issue. For example, among the owners of small plots, the issue of saving space is relevant. How an underground garage is built and what should be taken into account - we will consider today.
Often there is not much space in the areas. At the same time, there is clearly a need to build a garage. Of course, it will immediately catch the eye, it is not so easy to fit it into the landscape. And most importantly, that it will take up additional space. There is a good solution - to build an underground garage.
This is how some motorists managed to solve two problems at once: to get an excellent garage space at full disposal and save space on the site. The space above remains free, aesthetic, and below is a modern underground garage.
How to build an underground garage
Making a reliable, safe, durable underground garage is not easy. There are many important points to be taken into account. Today we will consider in detail how to build an underground garage with our own hands, learn specific work algorithms and useful tips from experienced garage workers.
Advantages and disadvantages of an underground garage
First of all, we will try to evaluate the pros and cons of building an underground garage on the site. You must be 100% sure that you want to have an underground garage for working with a car and storing a car. Therefore, we will focus not only on the advantages, but also on the disadvantages.
Here are the key downsides:
- You will have to think about the construction budget. Of course, at the stage of building an underground garage, and also later, in the process of arranging it, you will have to invest more money than when building a standard room.
- Much will depend on the specific characteristics of your site. It is desirable to conduct special geological surveys. Of course, this will also require some investment. But you will accurately find out the level of occurrence of groundwater, the condition of the soil. If the groundwater is too high, it will make it much more difficult or even impossible to build an underground garage.
- To build a garage directly under the house, this should be done already at the stage of building a cottage, and not later. Near a private house, it is quite possible to lay, build and equip an underground garage at almost any time.
Despite the existing shortcomings, it is underground garages that are now in growing demand. Increasingly, responsible garage workers decide to build such a structure with their own hands.
Benefits of underground garages
Of course, houses with underground garages have many advantages. Consider the most significant advantages of such a solution.
- Only when building an underground garage can maximum space savings be achieved. You do not have to look for a place on the site, think about the problem of general landscape design. No need to count every meter. In the process of building an underground garage, it is just more convenient to make it larger, to provide special places for a workshop, a cellar.
- Almost everyone who decided to build an underground garage on their site notes that such a room is very convenient during operation. You can practically equip the entrance, make the garage more spacious, work calmly in it.
- Another significant plus is the increased level of security. It is believed that underground garages are better protected from intruders than the usual above-ground buildings.
Of course, every motorist must decide for himself whether he is ready for such a responsible job. It is extremely important to insulate the underground garage space with the highest quality, ensure adequate waterproofing, ventilation of the room, and make a reliable drainage system.
We are preparing an underground garage project
When you decide to build an underground garage in a private house, the first thing you need to do is prepare the project. There are two key questions to be addressed here. How to prepare a competent project of an underground structure in order to successfully fit into the appropriate construction site. Then, during construction, it will be necessary to carefully control the markings on the ground in order to ideally enter the designed site. Filigree work.
Let us denote what is most important during the preparation of the project.
First you need to depict the area in a certain scale. Designate buildings, green spaces, and also be sure to pay special attention to access roads.
Then you need to allocate free space, which is suitable for arranging the entrance to the garage. By car, you need to move in reverse, forward, and make turns with a smaller radius. Then all the results are also plotted on the plan.
A good option is to depict the garage on a transparent tracing paper, and then move it around the base plan, choosing the best site.
Carefully draw a site for an inclined entrance, take into account the specific dimensions of the car. At the same time, experienced garage workers advise doing everything with a margin: after all, you may well buy a larger car later. Remember that the slope of the entrance should not exceed 25 degrees. Otherwise, it will be extremely difficult to leave the underground garage, especially in winter.
Then you need to bind the project to the area. Here you can’t do without clarifications: it’s important to know what materials you will build a garage from, what its design will be.
You need to know the exact thickness of the walls in order to determine the specific parameters of the garage space outside and inside. Such garages are most often built from concrete and expanded clay, brick and metal.
It is important to determine the depth of immersion of the structure. Sometimes garages are buried only by 50-60%, and part of the structure is carried out above the ground.
When everything has already been clarified, you can begin to prepare a working draft, with the determination of the amount of materials and specific parameters.
Choosing material for the garage
Let's briefly consider what materials an underground garage can be built from.
- It is easier and faster to make a metal frame using a welding machine. If the structure is treated with an anti-corrosion compound in several layers, it will last for many years.
- Red brick is easy to use. A garage from such material will be able to build one person. The box is erected, and then the floors are installed. Of course, waterproofing is also necessary here.
- Monolithic concrete blocks have the greatest strength. And here you will need to use specialized equipment, resort to the help of experienced craftsmen. Do not build a concrete garage with your own hands.
If you still want to build an underground garage with your own hands, it is most reasonable to choose a brick. It is more reliable and durable.
Features of construction, construction of an underground garage
During the construction process, one significant problem may arise: it will be difficult to dig a pit, manually remove soil, carry bags of cement and building materials. It is important to foresee this in advance so as not to turn the garage into a long-term construction and not go beyond the planned budget.
There are a few other important points that need to be taken into account.
- The site may be flooded from time to time. It is important to know exactly how high the groundwater is.
- Be sure to put special emphasis on waterproofing. If it is not done with sufficient quality, it will be damp in the garage, moisture will begin to accumulate, and condensation will form. And this is a direct threat to the car. Metal corrosion must not be allowed. In addition, in dampness, the garage itself will begin to collapse. Even being in an underground room with high humidity is harmful.
- Take care of the density of the soil. It must be carefully sealed: in the garage itself, under the driveways. Then it is worth additionally protecting it from external influences by covering it with paving slabs.
- It is important to ensure good ventilation of the room. This will create a comfortable, safe environment, quickly get rid of harmful toxic compounds and excess moisture.
Be extremely careful to build an underground garage efficiently.
Entrance to the underground garage
Properly equip the entrance to the underground garage. It should be borne in mind that the entire entrance route consists of three main parts.
- The horizontal section is located in front of the gate.
- The main entrance goes downhill. Don't forget that it shouldn't be too big.
- Then comes the starting area, which is already inside the garage.
It is desirable to make all transitions smooth. Additional zones with slight slopes will help here. Their length should be approximately 70% of the total length of the entry way.
Remember some important nuances. The recommendations will come in handy when building the entrance to the garage.
- It is better to make the entrance way longer, but more convenient. Then even in the cold and rain it will be comfortable to move around.
- The length is also calculated relative to the depth of the garage. Since we need to make a smaller angle of inclination, the entrance will be longer for a deeper garage.
- It is advisable to use non-slip materials, as well as supplement the entrance with braking serifs.
- A storm sewer with a grate is needed next to the gate.
- On the side of the entrance, it is worth equipping a walking path with a handrail, a staircase.
- Retaining walls on the sides of the entrance will prevent soil shedding. Remember that it will be subject to a significant mechanical impact.
Ventilation, heating and waterproofing
Be sure to provide effective ventilation in the underground garage. This is necessary for the safety, comfort, safety of the car. Hoods will eliminate excess moisture, harmful fumes, get rid of dampness and prevent metal corrosion.The waterproofing of the underground garage space is carried out especially carefully. published
If you have any questions on this topic, ask them to specialists and readers of our project.
How to build an underground garage?
In the end, the idea came up - to build an underground garage, or rather buried, like a basement. But not the kind that exists under every house and which it would be more correct to call the underground, but similar to those that have survived in some places in our villages: a building buried in the ground and bunded on top, in which, like in a cellar, the villagers stored supplies, and even lived in the summer - hiding from the midday heat, night coolness or morning dew - the temperature in it at any time of the day and even the year was quite comfortable.
The design of a recessed garage-workshop:
1 - sandy sub-foundation cushion; 2-- foundation; 3 -- side (left wall); 4 -- underlying sandy layer; 5 - ramp; 6 - track (cast iron plates); 7 - bevel (monolithic concrete, 2 pcs.); 8 -- short floor slab of the corner; 9 -- right side wall (with a ledge); 10 - floor; 11 -- wide floor slab; 12 -- narrow slab
Conditions: Relief, geo- and hydrological for the construction of an underground garage were suitable. The runoff of rain and melt water from the site was provided by a slight natural slope. The base soil is dry loam, groundwater was not found at a depth of up to 2.5 m (there was a cellar nearby).
He shared his thoughts on the construction of the garage with a familiar civil engineer and received a number of useful tips: what should not be neglected to ensure the reliability of the structure in an effort to save money. For example: the obligatory laying of the base of the foundation (or at least the sandy underlying layer) below the maximum freezing depth of the base soil; categorical rejection of substandard floor slabs, etc.
In my thoughts, I often imagined a garage-workshop for a future car, the design of which I also saw, as if in reality. However, he nevertheless completed the necessary sketches on paper. As it turned out later, the drawings of the plan and facades were necessary to obtain a building permit from the local architecture authorities. And since the buried garage practically does not change the surrounding landscape and the general architecture of the existing building, the permit was issued without any problems. And I needed the drawings to a greater extent to calculate the volume of building materials, and according to them - to estimate their cost and identify their financial support for the construction of the garage.
Plan of a buried garage-workshop at ground level (higher structures are shown in sections):
1 - base (natural soil - loam); 2 - floor (monolithic concrete); 3 - pillow (sand); 4 - foundation (concrete block 1000x600x400, as needed); 5 -- wall (concrete block 400x200x200, as needed); 6 - hydraulic lock (clay); 7 - inclined ramp, 8 - track (cast iron plates); 9 - overlap (reinforced concrete slab), 10 - waterproofing (roofing material on bituminous mastic); 11 - embankment (soil); 12 - cover (soil and vegetation layer); 13 -- lintel-lintel (reinforced concrete beam)
There were doubts about the location of the ramp (inclined exit-exit): outside the premises or inside it. In the end, I chose the latter option and, as it turned out, did not lose. In winter, it does not have to be cleared of snow and ice (the outer ramp would require careful winter maintenance, and in the summer it would be necessary to somehow remove the rainwater that fell on it.
The construction of the garage-workshop began with the marking of its plan on the selected site (or, as the builders say, with the breakdown of the structure in kind).
First, I determined the location of the outer corners (intersections of the projections of the outer surfaces of the walls) of the future garage, driving in small pegs here. The squareness was checked using the method of equal diagonals. Then, on the continuation of the lines of the walls, about 2.5 meters from the corner pegs, I dug up columns of "impressive". He marked the more accurate position of the lines with “two hundred” nails, driving them halfway into the ends of the posts, and pulled nylon cords over the nails.
The development of the pit was carried out in a mechanized way - he hired a bulldozer-excavator based on the Belarus tractor. It should be noted that the excavator worked on it very carefully: he moved the vegetation layer in three directions, dug a foundation pit with partial loading of clay soil for export to a dump truck; planned the bottom of the pit and the ramp. True, in some places it was necessary to refine it manually: to level the walls, to deepen the trench under the foundation blocks almost along the perimeter - but this is better than if it were necessary to pour and compact the soil in the place unnecessarily chosen by the excavator.
Foundation plan (material - FB1 concrete blocks with dimensions 1000x600x400 mm - length x height x width, 35 pcs); A, B, C, 1, 2 - building axes
The foundation of the garage is made of concrete blocks measuring 1000x600x400 mm in just one row on a sandy underlying layer 200 mm thick. Under the part of the outer wall associated with the ramp, or rather, under the lid-gate, I did not lay foundation blocks at all, and the wall here is lined with ledges with a gradual rise to the surface of the earth. He also laid the foundation blocks under the partition, since the nook formed by it and the outer walls was also blocked with reinforced concrete slabs of considerable mass.
Walls with a thickness of “half a brick” (with the long side along the wall) were laid out from lightweight concrete blocks (stones) measuring 400x200x200 mm with slit-like voids. The laying was carried out on a cement-sand mortar with a seam height of about 20 mm, the most common method being a chain method, in which each vertical seam between adjacent blocks is covered by an overlying block.
A pin was inserted into the slots of each block - a segment of a thin pipe or reinforcing bar, which also pierced the underlying stone, and sometimes the stone of the next row. Within the limits of the opening, he laid out the outer wall and the partition in ledges, with a gradual decrease to the surface of the earth. The ledges were leveled to the inclined edge with monolithic concrete. On the edges along their inner edge, I laid and secured with anchor pins corners 70x70 mm - lodgements for the gate. In the back wall (diagonally from the entrance) he left an arched opening for the door. Subsequently, outside he arranged a pit with a ladder, and above on the racks - a visor-canopy.
The garage door (they can also be called a manhole cover) is made of steel sheet two millimeters thick. But since the area of the gate-cover is quite significant (the length is over 5 m, and the width is about 3 m), they also required a power frame in the form of a lattice, which was welded from round steel pipes with an outer diameter of 60 mm. The dimensions of the strapping of the lattice are along the entrance opening to the garage.
The house is considered the protective fortress of every person. Within the framework of this conditional concept, many began to think about more reliable buildings. The question arises of how to build a bunker. It is located underground, nothing better to invent. If a person is afraid of natural disasters and simply tries to be in a protective place, there are special projects for such a structure.
You can erect it on your site, often this is done in the country. There are a number of advantages to this shelter, although it does not always save. If a decision is made to build, you will have to take useful instructions as a basis and implement the project according to it. There are no difficulties, only all the tools and material are being prepared, because the underground house has its own construction features. What exactly are the features, we will consider further.
There will be no paperwork
Thinking about how to build a bunker, many take into account this issue. Should there be any paperwork? The first plus, according to experts, is that it is not required to prepare documentation, to obtain permission for such a structure. But this is provided that everything is done on a personal site. Although there is an exception. If there are communications of central importance under the soil, it is more difficult to make a bunker. During the construction, damage can be inflicted, and this is a serious violation.
Before you build a bunker, all these questions should be clarified. This is the first step towards building protective housing. One cannot do it alone, so an assistant must be present, and preferably not one. Only after that the main work begins. It is important to take into account the proximity of groundwater during construction.
proximity to groundwater
Before you build a bunker, you will have to understand at what level the groundwater is. If this is overlooked, then you will get not a living space, but a large pool. To do this, it is important to know at what depth the waters are. But is it possible to perform such procedures on your own? According to experts, the process is not so complicated: attention is directed to the nearest wells, any reservoirs. The difference between the level of land and water will become the principle of the occurrence of groundwater flows. It is not difficult to make accurate calculations, it is important not to rush at this stage. The instructions for performing the work are elementary - everyone who creates their own in-depth dwelling must come to this goal with certain knowledge.
Opinion of architects with experience
Another assistant is deep water wells. In the process of their creation, it is more clear at what level the ground flows go.
The house underground must form above the streams, the minimum distance is 50 centimeters. The bigger, the better. Here is the calculation: if the groundwater is at the level of 5 meters, then the foundation pit for the new building is 4.5 meters. Although when groundwater is above 4 meters, it will not work to create a full-fledged house underground. Because attention is paid to comfort, protection, convenience of existence for a long time. Reliability is not in last place, so every little thing will have to be calculated.
How to choose a place?
Many people think about how to choose the base and calculate the depth of the bunker. Sometimes there are ideas of building a shelter under the house, in the basement. Architects believe that this idea is bad and should not be implemented. And all because there are cataclysms - a hurricane, winds, flooding. The main structure will collapse, and the entrance to the underground shelter will be thrown by fragments. Will have to look for something more suitable. If the size of the site allows, construction begins.
Although such a structure is allowed, if there is an additional entrance to the bunker, at a distance of up to 10 meters from the house. Communication is essential for a fulfilling life. If they are standalone, this is the best solution. Communications should not have a connection with the house; in the event of a collapse, there will be no electricity supply to the bunker. This is emphasized by all architects and specialists in the construction of residential premises.
In addition, you will have to hide the entrance. It is located in the place of outbuildings on the site. Often the construction of a do-it-yourself bunker is carried out precisely from the entrance. Let him be in the garden among the trees and shrubs. It will not be visible to anyone - only the owners will know how to get into their
What is the area?
An important point of each dwelling is to verify the dimensions. It is based on the fact that people will stay in it for a short period of time. For the period of a natural disaster, a hurricane, such a calculation of the area is made - 4 m 2 per resident. Under these conditions, it will be comfortable to wait out adverse conditions on the surface of the earth.
If there are three people in the family, then it turns out 12 m 2, it is not difficult to implement such a project. The calculation is carried out by multiplication. If the territory at the house is large, then the area increases, but not to the detriment of comfort. Bunkers build temporary and long-term residence. This depends on the choice of some parameters.
small period
Architects believe that in order to be inside the shelter for a short period of time, a septic tank made of durable material may well be suitable. What is being done:
- A durable container is purchased.
- Buried in the ground, at a certain distance.
- The size is calculated taking into account arrivals.
You can wait out a hurricane and a tornado in it, and additional care is not required for many years. There is no need to invest in this building, install ventilation and heating. For air extraction, two natural ventilation pipes leading to the surface are enough. It is not necessary to supplement the structure with special cleaning devices.
You will need to install a standard cleaning filter. Sometimes it is done by hand. Gauze, glass wool are purchased - they are fixed on pipes. Electricity is connected to the main system. It is worth making batteries so that the supply is for a long period.
Heating
This is an open question. Because the earth does not freeze more than one and a half meters. For a temporary stay, maximum heat is not required. Experts advise having a stock:
- Warm things.
- Blankets.
- Plaidov.
- Thermal underwear.
The price of such a shelter is within 400 thousand rubles. The required volume of the septic tank is 19 m 3, the preparation of the pit will not be long, and everyone will cope with it quickly. It is easy to hire workers, for about 30 thousand rubles.
For a long stay inside
Before building a long-term underground bunker, it is worth considering each room. Its total area is not less than 15 m 2. A separate room is provided for the location of generators and other necessary components.
For such a structure, drainage is done under the foundation. It should be at least 25 centimeters, and the wall - 27. To prevent the soil from creeping, reinforcement is made using affordable, inexpensive material. The bottom of the pit, before starting construction, is leveled. After the foundation has dried, after 30 days they begin to build walls. For reliability, reinforcement should be fixed every three rows. The size of the drainage under the foundation is created arbitrary.
The roof must be secure. Durable metal is used. We must not forget about heat and waterproofing. A ladder for descent and a tightly closing door are mounted. In order not to call such a shelter a trap, an emergency exit is made. Before you start interior decoration, it is worth creating a strong, high-quality waterproofing for the walls. There are many materials for this. Next, a partition is made between the main housing and the engine room. The cost will be within 150 thousand, if you do it yourself.
In order to stay in such a protective shelter for several days, it is worth considering:
- Autonomous electricity. A generator that runs on diesel or gasoline is suitable. Two-tier installations are made for fuel storage.
- Ventilation with air filtration.
- Conditioning. Due to this, air is supplied with cleaning, the installation cost is high.
Stocks
If the stay involves several days, then you can’t do without supplies. One of the important components is water (at least 300 liters). The number of people matters. It is important to have canned food, cereals, other products packaged and with a long shelf life.
You can't do without a first aid kit. It consists of:
- Bandage, adhesive tape.
- Cotton wool.
- Thermometer, tonometer.
- Scissors, tourniquet.
- Masks, heating pad.
A set of tablets is inserted individually. Be sure to have painkillers and antipyretics. In the presence of chronic deviations from health, you need to put more auxiliary drugs. Since nutrition will deviate from the norm, digestion tablets are required.
What else counts?
In addition to food, first aid kit, it is required to create conditions for comfortable rest and sleep. Clothes are interchangeable, but the main thing is that you can go out into the light. If chemical exposure is implied, then personal protective equipment is indispensable - gas masks, protective clothing, a flashlight. The last item on the list of important things will come in handy for indoor moving to save electricity.
Conclusion
To fully be in the bunker, you need to create conditions for yourself on an individual basis. Each person gets used to his own - food, warmth, general atmosphere. Today, such buildings are in great demand. It is not difficult to build them, even without experience. But if you do everything alone, this process will drag on for a long time.
If you're looking for a home with energy-efficient features that provide a comfortable, quiet, weather-resistant home, a buried underground home may be for you. How to make an underground house?
There are two main types of recessed design - underground and bulk house.
Underground
When the whole house is built below ground level in whole or in part with an appropriate modern structure. The design of the central part of the dwelling and the courtyard can accommodate an underground home and still provide an open feeling while using modern ones.
Such a house is built entirely underground on a flat site, with the main living quarters surrounding a central open courtyard. Windows and glass doors that sit on open walls overlooking the central area provide light, solar heat, views, and access via stairs from ground level.
The design is visible from ground level and creates a private outdoor space and provides good protection from winter winds. This design is ideal for construction sites in harsh areas.
Passive sunlight is received plausibly through the windows as in a conventional residential building, and the amount is thought out by design.
Bulk
A mound house can be built partly below ground level, covering more of the building's walls. The design involves covering the sides and sometimes a roof with earth to protect and insulate the bulk house.
The open front of the house, usually facing south, allows the sun to illuminate and heat the interior. The floor plan is arranged so that the common areas and bedrooms share light and warmth with a southern exposure.This may be the least expensive and easiest way to build a ground protected structure. Strategically placed skylights can provide adequate ventilation and daylight in the northern parts of an earthen home.
The main disadvantages of underground houses are the initial construction costs, which can be up to 20% more than conventional ones, and the increased level of professionalism required to prevent moisture problems during design and construction.
What to consider when building an underground house
About the most specific factors for the design of a house protected by the earth.
Before deciding to design and build a secure, energy-efficient underground home, the climate, topography, soil, and water table will need to be considered.
Climate
Research shows that earth-sheltered homes are more cost effective in climates that have large temperature swings and low humidity, such as rocky areas and black earth plains.
Ground temperature changes more slowly than air temperature in our areas, and can absorb extreme heat in hot weather or insulate an underground home to keep warm in cold weather.
Relief and microclimate
The topography and microclimate of a site determine how easily a building can be surrounded by land. A modest slope requires more excavation than a steep one, and a flat area is the most demanding, needing extensive excavation. A south-facing slope in a region with moderate and long winters is ideal for a sheltered building.
South-facing windows can let in sunlight for direct heating while the rest of the house returns to the slope. In regions with mild winters and hot summers, a slope to the north may be ideal. Careful planning by the designer will bring out the full advantage of the conditions at a given site.
The soil
Another critical point is the type of soil on the site. Grainy soils, such as sand and gravel, are best suited for building such houses. These soils are compact, well-worked with structural materials and permeable enough to allow water to drain quickly. The poorest soils are lumpy like clay, which can expand when wet and has poor permeability.
Professional soil tests can determine the bearing capacity of the soil on the site. Soil radon levels are another factor to consider when building an underground home because high concentrations of radon can be dangerous. However, there are methods to reduce the accumulation of radon in both conventional and earth-sheltered dwellings.
Radon is a chemically inert natural radioactive gas, odorless, colorless and tasteless. Radon is formed due to the natural decay of uranium from rocks and soil.
Ground water level
The groundwater level at the construction site is also important. Natural drainage away from the building is the best way to avoid water pressure against underground walls. An installed wastewater collection system is required, which must be designed when laying the structure of the future building.
Building materials and considerations for underground houses
Construction materials for each earthwork will vary depending on the characteristics of the site and the type of structure. The materials must, however, provide a good surface to be waterproof and insulating in order to withstand the pressure and moisture of the surrounding earth.
Concrete is the most common building construction solution because it is strong, durable and fire resistant. Concrete blocks reinforced with steel bars placed in the main masonry can also be used and usually cost less than in-situ concrete.
Wood can only be used for light structural work. Steel can be used to reinforce screeds, columns and concrete reinforcements, but must be protected against corrosion if exposed to groundwater. Metal is also expensive, so it must be used efficiently in order to be economical as a structural material.
Other design considerations
Waterproofing
Waterproofing can be a problem for such structures. Keep these methods in mind to reduce the risk of water damage to your building:
- choose the area carefully
- plan drainage both on and below the surface of the underground house for watertightness.
Waterproofing systems should apply:
- Rubberized Asphalt - Combines a small amount of synthetic rubber with asphalt and is coated with a layer of polyethylene to form sheets. It can be applied directly to walls and roofs and has a long service life.
- Plastic and vulcanized sheets are among the most common types of underground waterproofing. Plastic sheets include high density polyethylene, chlorinated polyethylene, polyvinyl chloride and chlorosulfonated polyethylene. Suitable vulcanized membranes or synthetic rubber include isobutylene isoprene, ethylene diene monomer, polychloroprene (neoprene), and polyisobutylene. For all these materials, the seams must be properly sealed to protect against leaks.
- Liquid polyurethane is often used in places where it is inconvenient to apply a membrane and is sometimes used as a coating over insulation on underground structures. Please note that weather conditions must be dry and relatively warm during their application.
- Bentonite is natural clay assembled into panels that are nailed to walls or applied as a liquid spray. When bentonite comes into contact with moisture, it expands and seals the moisture.
Humidity
Humidity levels can increase in earth-sheltered homes during the summer, which can cause condensation on interior walls. Installing insulation on the outside of the walls will prevent the walls from cooling and improve the cooling effect of the walls. Careful planning by the designer of an underground home is important to eliminate future problems.
Insulation
Although the insulation in an underground building does not have to be as thick as in an ordinary house, it is necessary to make an earthen house comfortable. Insulation is usually applied to the exterior of the house after the application of the waterproofing material to preserve the interior of the building. If boards are used, then the protective layer of the board must keep the insulation from contact with a wet surface.
Designing and building a new energy efficient home or renovating an existing one requires careful planning and attention to detail. A comprehensive systems approach helps homeowners, architects and builders develop successful strategies to optimize their home's energy efficiency.
This approach sees the house as an energy system with interdependent parts, each of which affects the performance of the entire system. It also strongly influences the location and the local climate for the main consideration.
To take full advantage of the systems approach, whole house computer simulations are needed that compare multiple combinations of variables in order to design the most cost effective and most energy efficient solution.
Important variables when designing an underground house:
- Location conditions
- local climate
- Appliances and household appliances
- Insulation and air convection
- Lighting and daylight
- Heating and cooling
- Water heating
- Windows, doors and skylights.
Some benefits of using an integrated systems approach include:
- Reduced utility and operating costs
- Increased comfort
- Noise reduction
- Healthier and safer indoor environment
- Improved building durability.
You can use the systems approach with any home design. Once your energy needs have decreased you need to consider adding systems that generate electricity and thermal water.