Supports under the terrace attached to the house. Guide to the construction of a veranda of foam blocks
Terrace is a platform attached to the house or standing separately. Usually it resembles a large porch adjacent to the wall at the entrance to the house. In southern areas, terraces are usually open. In the middle lane - covered with marquises or awnings. The design of the terrace can be initially included in the construction plan of the house and built on the same foundation. But, if the house already exists, to attach a terrace to it is not difficult for any home master. Let's talk about what basic terrace structures exist and how to build them yourself.
Before proceeding with the construction of the terrace, it is necessary to carry out the design and decide which design option to give preference to.
The simplest constructions of terraces are carried out at ground level. These are platforms paved with paving slabs, paving stones or clinker. Paving is performed on a gravel-sand cushion laid in a pre-arranged excavation in the ground, 20-30 cm high.
On a gravel bed you can also build a wooden terrace with flooring from boards or composite decking. Wooden blocks or steel profiles, playing the role of a log, are laid on top of the dump. They mount wooden support beams. The floor boards are fixed on top.
Terraces more complicated in execution, elevated above ground level. Moreover, they can be raised, both by 15-20 cm, and by 2-3 m (level of the second floor). In this case, you can’t do without a foundation. Such a terrace rests on reinforced concrete slabs, blocks or piles, playing the role of a monolithic, columnar or pile foundation. An example of a raised terrace: a platform in the form of a reinforced concrete slab, lined with ceramic or porcelain stoneware. During the construction of a wooden raised terrace, wooden logs are fixed on the selected foundation (concrete columns, slabs, piles), which are sheathed on top with a trimmed or terrace board (decking).
We will provide you with several options for building a terrace, designed in the form of information workshops.
Option 1. Clinker paved terrace
This version of the terrace is built on a sandy rammed pillow, at ground level. Clinker tile, from which the flooring is laid out, allows you to form curves, curved lines of the site. To clearly indicate the boundaries of the terrace, fences are installed around its perimeter. For example, small wooden posts saturated with antiseptics.
The work is performed as follows:
1. Cleans the soil at the site of the paved terrace. They remove stones, driftwood, remove the top layer of soil, 20 cm thick.
2. Sand is poured into the resulting recess, with a layer of 15 cm.
3. A trench with a size of 70x70 cm (depth, width) is dug out along the intended border of the area. A layer of gravel or sand is poured at the bottom of the trench, with a height of 15-20 cm. It is necessary for better drainage of water at the installation site of the enclosing columns.
4. In the trench, on the drainage layer, two rows of wooden posts are installed (on the inside and outside). Their verticality is controlled by the building level. The columns installed at the ends of the fence are fastened with self-tapping screws. This solution provides a stronger grip of structural elements, does not allow them to shift and fall out of the row.
The fence has the form of a closed "pocket", which will later be used as a flower bed framing the terrace. If the arrangement of the flowerbed is not included in your plans, then the border can be made in one row by installing bricks, ready-made plastic fences, etc. in the trench.
5. In order to prevent soil from being washed out of a future flower bed, a layer of roofing material is laid inside the enclosing "pocket", turning it on the walls of the columns. Ruberoid is laid at the height of the planned level of backfill with soil. At several points, the waterproofing layer is fixed to the walls of the posts with self-tapping screws or nails.
6. Pegs are driven into the ground, from the wall of the house to the fence, with a step of 3 m and pulled on them cords with a slope of 2-3 cm per 1 meter Thus, the level of sand backfill is planned, which must necessarily form a slope for rainwater runoff from the terrace site.
7. Tamp the sand filling and level it according to the level of the tensioned cords, filling up, if necessary, the missing amount of sand.
8. Begin the installation of clinker tiles. Each tile is laid on a sand layer, pressed tightly and tapped on the surface with a rubber hammer.
9. The remaining free areas, between paving and fencing, are covered with large decorative gravel.
10. The joints between the tiles are filled with fine sand with a stiff brush.
11. Excess sand on the surface is washed off with a stream of water from under the hose. The pressure should be small so that the sand does not wash out of the seams.
12. So that rain moisture can flow freely from the paved area, drainage is performed. To do this, lay along the columns of the fence with a slope a drainage pipe with slots wrapped in a jute cloth (so that debris and soil do not get into the slots). To mask the surface of the pipe is covered with gravel.
The end of the laid drainage pipe is connected to the storm sewer pipe. Through a tee, a drainage outlet is also connected here. A gutter with a grate is installed in the right place.
Option # 2. Gravel-covered wooden terrace
The long-life and easy-to-use terrace, built on a gravel bed, can easily be made of steel profiles (logs), wooden bars and boards. Since they will practically lie at the ground level, for this version of the terrace it is allowed to use only wood from hard, not susceptible to rotting species: larch, oak, garapa, teak, merbau, etc. Before use, boards are treated with antiseptics that protect them from moisture, rot, insects, and UV rays.
Working process:
1. At the site of the future site, remove the topsoil, 20-30 cm thick.
2. Fall asleep pit gravel.
3. Steel profiles are laid on gravel, forming a slope of 2-3 cm per 1 running meter. The distance between the profiles is about 500-600 mm.
4. Bearing beams are attached to the profiles. The distance between the beams is about 600 mm, if the thickness of the terrace board is 27 mm. With a board thickness of 20 mm, the beam pitch will have to be reduced to 400 mm. For additional protection of the beams from moisture, in the places of their contact with the profiles, rubber gaskets are cut, cut across the width of the boards.
5. Support beams are covered with dark protective fabric (geotextile, for example) to prevent weed germination.
6. A flooring is assembled from the boards perpendicular to the beams with gaps of 2-3 m. Spacers are installed between the boards and the protective fabric to prevent moisture accumulation in the floor space. A compensation gap of 1-2 cm is left between the walls and the floor.
7. At the end of assembly, the boardwalk is covered with antiseptics, stained with impregnation or varnish.
Option # 3. Terrace on a columnar foundation
The wooden terrace on the columnar foundation is the traditional and most win-win option. The design is adjacent to the house and, in fact, is one with it. The columnar foundation is able to raise the area by 15-60 cm. At the same time, the blown-up space formed under the deck contributes to the effective ventilation of the terrace elements and minimizes the possibility of wood decay.
Step-by-step construction instructions:
1. To connect the future terrace area with the house, the first beam is fixed horizontally (at the terrace level) on the adjacent wall. Above the top edge of the beam, a galvanized steel drain is mounted.
2. In places of installation of concrete columns make excavation. Columns should be installed in increments of 1.5-2 m. Depths are performed taking into account the desired elevation of the terrace, the height of the columns and the mandatory layer of gravel bedding, 10-15 cm thick.
3. Gravel filling is poured into the recesses, then trapezoidal concrete columns are installed. A metal embedded part under square beams is attached to the upper platform of each column.
4. The support beams are embedded in embedded parts on the posts, fixed with screws.
5. On top of the support beams, perpendicular to them, mount the platform beams at a distance of 40-60 cm from each other.
6. Terrace boards are screwed to the platform beams with screws, observing 2-3 mm gaps between them. The gaps are used to prevent the accumulation of rainwater on the floor and its free flow into the underfloor.
7. If untreated trim boards are used for the terrace, at the end of the installation, the surface of the flooring may look uneven. Therefore, the floor is leveled with a grinder, bringing all points of the terrace to the same level. After polishing, wood dust is removed and the boards are treated with impregnation - antiseptic or staining. When using a special terrace board, additional grinding of the surface is not required.
The columnar foundation for the terrace can also be built from flat concrete blocks. A similar option for building a terrace is presented in the video:
Option # 4. WPC terrace on pile-screw foundation
Sometimes it is irrational to install a terrace on a columnar foundation. For example, with a high occurrence of groundwater on moist and unstable soils. In this case, the soil will swell and push concrete columns. Difficulties in the device column foundation can occur in areas with large level differences, on slopes. In all these cases, for light buildings, another type of foundation is more successful - pile-screw. Screw piles make it possible to raise the terrace area to the desired height (even by 2-3 m!), Perfectly hold the wooden flooring with all necessary furniture. In addition, screwing screw piles for the terrace occurs within 1 day.
Consider technology light construction WPC terraces on screw piles.
Working process:
1. Determine the installation points of piles. They are screwed in increments of 2-3 m, with mandatory installation in the corners of the future site.
2. Screwing in the piles is performed using a special technique or manually. When manually screwing into the slots on the upper end of the pile, metal scrap is inserted, which serves as a lever. In the process of scrolling this lever, the pile blades the soil with blades and falls to the required depth (below the level of freezing of the soil).
3. Twisted piles are cut to the level of the future supporting frame.
4. Inside each screw-in pile, cement mortar is poured to increase its strength and prevent corrosion of the internal cavity.
5. On top of the piles, a steel metal frame of profile pipes is mounted. The frame has the form of a frame with intermediate elements spaced 50-60 cm apart. The finished frame is coated with a primer, paying particular attention to the weld points.
6. Aluminum logs are laid on piles. Since when the aluminum comes into contact with the steel of the frame, the corrosion process starts, it is recommended to lay the logs only through rubber gaskets.
7. Mounting of the decking boards on aluminum logs is carried out using the terminals that are inserted into the slot of the log. The terminals allow you to mount the boards without the use of screws and the need to drill holes in them. If the aluminum profile used does not allow the installation of terminals, the mounting of the decking boards is traditionally carried out using self-tapping screws.
8. After assembling the composite flooring, an enclosing aluminum profile is mounted at the ends of the decking. Now the deck of composite decking is almost indistinguishable from an expensive wooden structure!
How the installation of the terrace on screw piles is performed is shown in the video plot:
A small country house can be expanded by attaching to it a veranda made of various materials. This can be a timber-frame structure or a more thorough extension of foam concrete blocks.
This is an inexpensive material, practical and convenient to use, construction is within the power of the home foreman and it will not require the involvement of specialists. Do-it-yourself veranda of foam blocks can be built in one summer season, and it will become a comfortable and convenient extension for many years to come.
The advantages of foam concrete for construction
A foam block veranda insulated with foam is an excellent solution for many reasons. Such an extension can be used in a variety of ways, as it will be reliably isolated from the cold, wind and rainfall. Warming will allow you to maintain a comfortable temperature in it all year round.
Why is it worth choosing foam concrete for construction? This is a material made on the basis of natural components: cement, sand and water, in addition, the mixture acquires special properties thanks to a special foam. Due to the porous structure, the foam concrete block has some very important advantages:
- Good heat and noise insulation qualities. Foam concrete will allow you to create a quiet and comfortable room in which it will be comfortable both in winter, and so in summer.
- The correct geometric dimensions. The foam block is larger than brick in size, in addition, it has a completely flat surface. This speeds up and simplifies the masonry, and even people who are far from the construction industry can cope with it.
- Strength combined with relatively light weight. Foam blocks have been used in low-rise construction for a long time, they have proven their effectiveness. With their help, you can build a reliable structure that will last for many years.
Knowing how to build a veranda from foam blocks, you can save on the work of professionals, and the materials themselves will be inexpensive. Often, construction is carried out from the remnants of the blocks after a large construction. One of the few disadvantages of this material is its low decorative qualities, so the veranda will have to be additionally trimmed.
Designing a veranda from foam blocks and building a foundation
The veranda of foam blocks with their own hands is most often built on a strip foundation, which must be correctly attached to an existing base. The choice of connection depends on whether the extension was originally planned, and when the main building was built. If the construction of the veranda was part of the project, both the house and the extension are erected on a common monolithic foundation, which is a single concrete strip along the perimeter of the structures. Perhaps the construction of a veranda on a strip foundation of foam blocks, such as brand D1200.
If at first the house was built, and then the question arose of creating a veranda, there are two options for fixing the foundations:
The foundation is built in the same way as a conventional tape base. A trench is dug around the perimeter of the building, into which special reinforcement with a diameter of at least 10 mm is installed, formwork is put, and the trench is poured with concrete.
So that there are no voids in the foundation, the space in the frame is pierced by sticks, or you can use a special construction vibrator to seal the solution. The poured concrete base must dry completely; this may take several weeks. The formwork is disassembled, after which you can proceed to the construction of the walls.
Masonry walls of the veranda of foam blocks
The veranda to the house with their own hands from foam blocks is built according to standard masonry technology. Foam concrete blocks, unlike bricks, they are not laid on a cement-sand mortar, but on a special glue, and the layer thickness is no more than 2 mm.
However, this is possible only if a high-quality building material with smooth edges and exact adherence to dimensions is acquired. It is necessary to pay attention to the quality of the foam blocks, otherwise the masonry will require large additional costs.
The foundation is closed with a layer of roofing material for waterproofing, after which the first row of foam blocks is laid out on the adhesive layer. Masonry is completely similar to working with bricks: the principle of dressing the seams must be observed, that is, the middle of each new side should be exactly above the junction of the blocks in the bottom row. This will allow you to build a solid wall and prevent cracks.
To create window and doorways, reinforced concrete lintels are used, they allow you to evenly distribute the load. Glazing of the veranda can be cold or warm, it depends on the chosen frames and double-glazed windows.
Cold aluminum frames will allow you to feel comfortable on the veranda in the warm season, but in winter it will not be protected from frost. Warm glazing allows you to create a full living room, especially if you take care of the complete insulation.
An important rule: a concrete slab is never laid directly on the foam blocks. Due to the uneven load distribution, the blocks will quickly begin to break down. In this case, a monolithic reinforcing belt is required.
Roofing on the veranda of foam concrete blocks
How to build a veranda for the house from foam blocks so that it is protected from rain and wind? To do this, you need to equip a full roof using the same material that is used for the house itself. There is another option: as a roofing, you can choose translucent polycarbonate.
The roof is often made single-pitch, it will allow for a gradual, uniform snow flow. However, there are gable options, and they can be much more aesthetic.
The roof can be a continuation of the roof of the house itself, in which case it will be necessary to partially disassemble it and lay longer rafters. But this option is not always possible, sometimes the veranda is attached to the side, and then she needs a separate roof.
Mauerlat is installed along the perimeter of the annex - this is a wooden beam, which will be a support for the installation of rafters. It is attached with anchor bolts, and on it is the "skeleton" of the roof. The second end of the rafters can be attached to a horizontal beam on the wall of the house.
On the rafters, a crate is installed, to which the roofing material is attached. The best option for the veranda is light roofing, such as metal tiles. It serves for a long time, is protected from corrosion, and at the same time, its light weight can easily withstand foam concrete blocks.
Floor, wall and ceiling finishes
An extension of the foam blocks will require a complete interior decoration, for which various materials can be used. Finishing the floor involves installing a lag, between which you can lay waterproofing layers and insulation, then the subfloor boards are laid. You can simply paint them, or you can lay the selected finishing coat on top.
The interior decoration of the walls can be done using plaster or drywall: these materials will align the walls and create a beautiful rough surface. In the future, on a closed veranda, you can put panels, stick wallpaper or choose a different finish. Plaster can only be installed on a layer of reinforcing mesh attached to the wall.
The outside of the wall also requires professional handling. It is protected with plaster or other types of roughing; you can also create a ventilated facade system with insulation and fine finishing with siding or other materials.
The space between the ceiling beams is insulated with mineral wool, other materials can be used. After that, the ceiling from below can be planked to create a finished interior on the veranda.
For glazing the veranda from foam blocks, you can order the manufacture of windows of the desired size, after which a complete installation is carried out using anchors and polyurethane foam. A window sill is installed inside the room, and an ebb tide that removes water from the house is installed outside.
Glazing of the veranda can be cold and warm: in the first case, aluminum frames are used, in the second - metal-plastic. You can install windows yourself, but it is important to strictly observe all stages of the technology, otherwise then the space of the veranda will be constantly blown.
Allows to increase usable area. One of the options is a veranda of foam blocks, which can be used as a dining area or a place to relax. Usually, exterior finish Annexes are in the same style as the main building.
Construction Features
Before you start building the veranda to the house, you need to determine the size of the structure and the type of foundation used. Particular attention should be paid to checking the condition of the soil, as well as the walls of the house and the roof, to which the veranda will adjoin.
Users often search:
An extension project will be required. For a simple design, a drawing is enough, but with detailed details.
At the design stage, you need to take into account the size of the structure and the number of building materials, and also answer the following questions:
- Will the dismantling of roof elements be required?
- What type of connection to the main building veranda to choose?
- Where will the entrance of the extension be located: separately or through the house?
Typically, the design of the veranda, especially the foam block version, does not differ in complex elements. Without special knowledge, the construction can be erected independently, without resorting to the help of professionals.
Foundation
After choosing a project, it's time to fill the foundation. But first you need to find out what foundation is under the main building. This will be needed by the owners of old houses or those who bought a plot with a finished construction. To study, make a shufr (undermining) 1x1 m. Depth - to the base. The main rule is to fill the same type of foundation that is under the main structure. If this is neglected, then a deformation seam will be needed. If in doubt, it is best to consult a specialist.
The purpose of the expansion joint is to reduce the load on the main foundation. It occurs due to temperature changes, subsidence of the soil and other natural phenomena. Used to connect the veranda to a wooden house.
- tape;
- columnar.
The first is created by continuous casting. The second - with the help of a brick, on separate supports. It is cheaper than tape. The depth of the pit is no deeper than the foundation of the house. After pouring, the base is covered with a waterproofing material.
An attached terrace is a separate issue. If there is a foundation under it of sufficient strength, you can build a veranda on the terrace. If there is no reason, you will have to fill it again.
Extension building
The main material for construction are foam blocks, which are advantageous to use because of their large size, low cost and low weight. Due to the large dimensions, construction is accelerated, and the small mass of blocks allows you to reduce the cost of the foundation and work with just one assistant.
Building walls
The main issue is the connection of the walls of the auxiliary and main structures. Fasten with metal brackets or fittings.
Wall construction starts from the corners. To connect the foam blocks, use a normal solution or special glue. To make the mixture better set with the blocks, they are moistened with water.
Features of the masonry:
- seam thickness - no more than 3 cm;
- leveling vertically by increasing / decreasing the thickness of the seam;
- block irregularities are cleaned with a grinder.
You cannot put a block on a block. Each new row of foam blocks needs to be shifted 15 cm to the side. This will increase the strength of the building at times.
Roofing and lintels for windows and doors
For jumpers use U-shaped blocks. Their advantages:
- a light weight;
- the ability to create an opening wider than 1.75 m.
The U-shaped block is placed together with the formwork or metal profile. You can use a bar made of wood. Fittings are mounted in the block groove and concrete is poured.
The design of the roof depends on the project:
- Sling is a logical continuation of the roof of the house above the veranda.
- Gable - requires more rafters and finances. In addition, with such a roof in the veranda it will be colder in winter. Only warming will save the situation. Rafters are used durable, from high-quality wood or metal profiles. Tile is laid upstairs.
In the roof attached to the house, water should not penetrate through the cracks.
Combining foam blocks with a wooden wall of a building
With this option, it is important to consider the following nuances:
- the correct combination of different wall materials;
- foundation wooden house always shrinks.
Wood is subject to deformations from differences in air temperature and humidity. Therefore, between the wooden structure and the veranda of foam blocks, a deformation seam is made - a flexible layer of mounting foam 1-1.5 cm thick.
As soon as the construction is completed, proceed to the external decoration and internal improvement of the veranda. Naked foam blocks can not boast of a presentable appearance, so it is better to veneer the walls from the outside and the inside with any material you like.
The veranda is an extension to the house, which has a common wall with it. The construction of the veranda is a great opportunity to expand living space in the country or in country house without completing full construction. By design, it can be absolutely anything, the main thing is to harmonize with the main building, be comfortable, functionally correspond to the tasks assigned to it, like the owners of the cottage and envy the neighbors.
The material for the construction of the gazebo must be treated with special insulating solutions before use, which will make the structure resistant to environmental influences.
As already mentioned, the design of the veranda can be absolutely any, but the design is quite different:
On a columnar, tape or pile foundation (monolith is expensive and difficult to do);
built-in or attached;
on a common foundation with a house or on a separate;
under a common roof or under a separate;
open or glazed;
insulated or summer version (without insulation, but with glazing);
with a frame made of different materials (wood, particleboard, aluminum, steel and so on);
with various types of roughing material;
with various types of front finishes.
Obviously, the choice is incredibly large. But the most common and simplest option for building a veranda can be considered an attached veranda under a separate roof without insulation on a columnar foundation. If you do not plan to spend the night in such an annex in the winter and are not going to build a bulky stove on it, this option is perfect for you. The type of internal and external cladding can be chosen at your own discretion: siding, lining, boards and so on.
Types of foundation.
Terms of construction of the veranda in-house
If the veranda is relatively small (it is customary to do the full length of the wall of the house where the door is) and with a low porch, then all the work can be done literally by the two of us in the shortest possible time. Most often, with a 4-6 hour working day, it takes only 4-5 days, plus some time for exterior and interior decoration. An assistant to the master will be required at the stage of laying heavy beams and at the stage of roof construction.
Calculation of the veranda for a country house
Veranda is a construction that requires approval and, accordingly, the preparation of design documentation. Only certified specialists can do this, so most likely it is they who, according to your sketch, will make you a project based on which you can calculate the necessary materials.
However, if you decide not to legitimize your extension, you can do the calculations yourself. Most home masters manage even with an approximate scheme and try to obtain more accurate data only for the number of beams and roofing material - both often have to be purchased and transported from afar, and everything else can usually be "obtained" somewhere nearby.
When designing the veranda, you need to consider that most often the beam, which will be used for the construction of vertical posts, for the lower and upper trim and for the logs, has a length of 6 meters. So, in order not to make extra cuts and not throw away unnecessary materials, it is worth choosing the appropriate dimensions of the veranda.
Sketch of the veranda.
Total we need
Cement;
sand and water for mortar;
brick (or prefabricated concrete blocks, which are sold in construction stores) for installing the foundation columns (every 1.5–2 meters);
timber 150 × 150 or 100 × 100;
edged board 40 × 100;
strong steel corners;
nails
bitumen for foundation processing;
waterproofing (roofing material or durable polyethylene);
roofing material;
materials for exterior and interior cladding.
Frameless glazing of the veranda.
DIY porch construction
After the preliminary calculations are made and the material is purchased, you can proceed to the next step - marking on the ground. It should be noted that the attached veranda will have a separate base with the main part of the cottage or cottage. And, since they have different bases and different weights, during freezing and thawing of soil, each of the structures will “float”, that is, rise and fall, completely according to its own physical laws. So, if we try to “link” the veranda and the house, then sooner or later they will move away from each other anyway. Accordingly, we leave between them a gap of 5-10 centimeters, which we then close with a special bar.
Veranda at the country house.
Stage 1. Building the foundation for the veranda
After we scored pegs along the wall in those places where the columns for the foundation will be installed, we can proceed directly to the excavation. Marking should be taken very seriously: subsequently, you will not have to level the defects with a complex fit of the upper harness and rafters. Marking pegs should be located on the outside of the walls of the veranda.
Under the columns we dig pits with a depth of approximately 50–70 centimeters and make a “pillow” for future foundation pillars: we fill the pit with sand for 15–20 centimeters, moisten and compact. After the sand dries, pour crushed stone to a height of about 10 centimeters. On top of it we pour liquid bitumen composition to provide the pillars with reliable waterproofing.
After the solidification of our waterproofing "pillow", you can proceed directly to laying the pillars of the foundation. They can be made from masonry or from concrete foundation blocks. We make sure that the columns are the same in height: subsequently we will not need to fight with the floor leveling on the veranda.
If there is a cavity inside the masonry, it must be filled with some construction waste - a brick fight, crushed stone - and filled with bitumen. Outside, both blocks and bricks are best also coated with bitumen - it will not be superfluous.
The height of the blocks or poles should be such that after laying the lower trim, lags and boards to the floor in the cottage or house, the vertical is 25-30 centimeters. This is necessary because the roof of the veranda is supposed to be lower than the roof of the house (if we want to combine them into a common structure), that is, the ceiling of the veranda will also be lower.
Important: after each stage, all new elements of the wooden structure must be treated with special antiseptics.
Veranda with outdoor fireplace.
Stage 2. We make the foundation of the veranda
Now that we have the foundation pillars, we cover each of them with a piece of roofing material for additional waterproofing. If you could not build the columns exactly horizontally, then later before laying the lags or the floor you will have to make special linings.
Now we put the bottom harness, which will put our design together. On top of our covered waterproofing pillars we put a beam, which is connected by an angled joint “in half a tree” - this is the easiest option. To give additional rigidity to the structure, you can connect the corners with nails, but it is optimal not to use metal, but to drill holes with a diameter of about 1.5 centimeters and drive spikes into them. Do not forget to smear the level of the lower binding with an antibacterial waterproofing agent for wood.
The frame of the veranda.Stage 3. We make a frame for the veranda
At the corners of our porch we hollow out or drill out grooves for installing angular vertical posts. We put the racks, carefully checking that they are perfectly vertical. The thorn-groove connection between the uprights and the lower harness is reinforced with strong metal corners or brackets. Further, according to the same principle, we put intermediate racks. Usually they are placed at a distance of approximately 60 centimeters from one another - everything here depends solely on the wishes of the master and on the length of the material that will be used for the construction and lining of the frame.
Important: do not forget to clearly verify the distance between the uprights in those places where the window and door frames will be located: the box should fit between two uprights.
Corner porch.
Mounting vertical racks, you can immediately make a window sill, which we will make of timber, connecting it with vertical racks with a spike connection. You can equip the window sill and later, fixing it with corners. After installing the vertical struts and tying them with a transverse (window sill) beam, we once again check the strict vertical structure.
On top of the resulting structure from the uprights sticking up, we install the upper harness - it will also be a Mauerlat, on which the roof structure will rest. It is done on the same principle as the lower harness.
Now we cut out the incomplete (half or a third) grooves for the floor logs in the lower harness, and the incomplete grooves for the rafters in the upper harness. First, put the long bars along the wall of the house - the lower and upper runs (the upper one is also called lying) - on the lower and upper strapping. In runs, we also cut down the grooves. Across the runs, we put the floor logs (below) and the rafters (above), fastening them with either a wooden spike (this is most reliable) or nails.
Veranda with wooden steps.
Stage 4. Staircase
Our design was supposed to be elevated above the ground, and in order to be able to get to the veranda, it is recommended to purchase or make a staircase yourself. It can be a simple welded metal staircase, wooden on the kosoura, made of bricks, filled with concrete. It is only important to remember that the staircase should be independent of the house - it should be united with the floor of the veranda only by the upper, preferably floating step. The staircase must be mounted at this stage, so that then all the flaws of the connection (ugly joints, etc.) can be covered with floor boards.
Floor covering for open areas.
Stage 5. Installation of the floor
The floor can be mounted at this stage or later, when the roof frame will be assembled, but it is more convenient to carry out construction work, treading not on the lags, but on a ready-made basis. So it is recommended right now to put an edged board across the lags and nail it to the bar with nails from a stainless steel. This may be the final version of the floorboard or draft. Later, rough boards can be covered with linoleum or other type of flooring.
Remark: how to make a warm floor in the veranda
If the veranda is not cold, but warm, then the order of construction of the floor will be slightly different:
1. We put a binding over the foundation pillars.
2. We put the run (if it is needed, but we need it if the length of the board is not enough, which we will stack with the next paragraph) so that the upper level of the run beam coincides with the upper level of the strapping beam (this can easily happen if you use the joining of the bars “in half a tree ").
3. On top of the run and strapping, we stuff the boards.
4. We put waterproofing material on top of them.
5. On top of the waterproofing we lay logs without any cutting. You can also cut down, and bend the waterproofing material into the resulting grooves and press down with lags. We connect the lags with the second lower harness (sometimes called the second crown).
6. We put heat-insulating material in the resulting niches. It can be expanded clay, slab or roll insulation.
7. We fill the boards over the lags - this will be the final or draft floor of our veranda.
Wooden porch.
Stage 6. Installation of the roof
We already have a Mauerlat or an upper harness and a central run (it is also lying). Now you need to install the racks on the side of the wall of the house, so that subsequently you get a pent roof. First we set up the corner posts, then the intermediate ones. From above we connect the racks with a ridge run, controlling that all racks are of the same height.
Now we put the rafters with support on one side on the wall racks, on the other hand on the Mauerlat (aka the upper harness). You can put rafters with a hollow "half a tree", or without it - just attach them with corners or brackets. Do not forget that our roof should have an overhang on the side of the entrance to the veranda, as well as a small allowance on the side of the wall of the house so that rain and melt water do not flow down the back wall of the veranda. In addition, do not forget that it would not be bad to make a visor over the stairs, at least over the upper several steps.
Important: this article describes a very simplified rafter system, which, however, is often used in the construction of cottages, verandas, arbors. However, during the work, especially if the veranda is very spacious, it may be necessary to install additional elements: struts (supports the angle between the rafter and the rack), intermediate racks (also called legs or chairs), runs and puffs (connect additional intermediate racks) and other elements, which will reduce the pressure of the roofing cake and rafters on the racks and piping, as well as maintain the clarity of the corners of the structure.
Polycarbonate porch roof.
On top of the rafters we fasten the waterproofing material, which we fasten with screws. On top of the rafters, we stuff the boards of the counter-lattice. They will play a double role: they will press the waterproofing stronger and form the space between the finishing roofing material and the insulator, eliminating the possibility of decay of the lathing and rafters.
This is followed by a layer of crate, which is placed across the rafters and, accordingly, counter-crate. The final stage is fixing the roofing material and covering the sides of the resulting gables with suitable material (most likely the same with which we will sheathe the walls of the veranda).
In the formation of the roof of the gazebo, you can use a wide range of materials.
Further, if you have a warm veranda, all work is carried out from the inside of the house. Between the rafters, you need to fix the insulation (you can nail it to the rafters), cover it with a vapor barrier (you can also nail it), and fill the crate of the ceiling system on top. It can be draft or immediately represent a finishing option for subsequent finishing.
Step 7. Installing doors and windows
If you have a sheathed porch, and not open, then now is the time to install the door and window frames. We fix the boxes using self-tapping screws or nails. We fill the voids with foam. During the external cladding of the walls of the sash, it is better to remove (unless, of course, you have double-glazed windows) so that they do not suffer from vibration when struck with a hammer or while the screwdriver is working.
Modern interior solutions let your imagination run wild.
Step 8. Sheathing outside the walls of the veranda
The material for the casing and, accordingly, the method of fastening it are chosen by the owners of the house of their own free will. The main thing when installing the outer cover is not to forget about the waterproofing layer, which is attached to the counter grill, fixed to the vertical posts. Thermal insulation and vapor barrier are installed from the inside by analogy with the roof. You can leave the veranda open, having built only a high fence.
Solar glazed porch.
Stage 9. Finish!
Now it remains only once again to make sure that all the wood is treated with antiseptic compounds and that we can proceed to the fine finish of the veranda. You can not comment on this part of the work, since there are simply countless options. Now, on their own veranda, home owners can enjoy morning or evening tea drinking, fresh air, peace and contemplation of nature.
Each owner of a private home ownership thinks about adding a veranda to his house. The front door to the house, equipped with a canopy or visor, looks uninteresting. Having built the veranda, you can decorate it with curtains, hang a flower pot with flowers or decorate it in the style you like. Being in such a structure, it is pleasant to sit over a cup of tea, not being afraid of hot sunshine or drizzling rain. The sunset will become more beautiful if you watch it from a convenient place. All this will create additional comfort.
The need for a veranda. Features, advantages and disadvantages
The construction of a structure such as a veranda is often an important condition to create a comfortable stay and organize functional zones in it. Designs are open and closed. Each of them has its advantages and disadvantages. The advantages should include the following points:
- the construction of an open type structure is not particularly difficult and does not require additional costs for installing windows and doors.
- there is no need to lay a deep foundation for these designs.
- in the closed veranda you can place a winter garden that is not afraid of frost, or organize a recreation area where you can be at any time of the year.
Speaking about the disadvantages of the types of verandas, it should be noted that:
- closed verandas, as a rule, are insulated, heating is installed in them, which entails the consumption of electricity and requires additional means of construction.
- furniture and other interior items on open verandas are quickly covered with dust or damp, so they should be made of moisture-resistant materials.
- an open veranda will not shelter from strong winds or low air temperatures.
The need for this extension is determined by the following criteria:
- First of all, it increases the useful area of \u200b\u200ba residential building, especially if it is very small.
- Arrangement of a stove or a summer kitchen in it during the warmer months of the year is more practical than inside a home. Additional heat and evaporation do not linger, which makes the cooking process more comfortable.
- The location of the dining room in it will move vacationers from the stuffy rooms of the house to fresh air.
- The veranda, with the appropriate design, will become an elegant architectural addition and give the house a beautiful view.
- The glazed structure will become an intermediate room between the house and the street. This will keep you warm in the cold season.
The functionality of this structure, depending on the type of construction, is as follows:
- thanks to its design, the veranda protects the house from various atmospheric phenomena;
- the existing fencing of the veranda will prevent the direct entry of garbage into the premises of the dwelling;
- constructions of closed verandas allow in winter the placement of a large number of plants and even trees in them;
- the sliding frame of this extension allows you to adjust the shading area and shelter from rain;
- extension makes it possible to be on fresh air even in adverse weather conditions.
Design Gallery of Options
This option will serve as a dining room and kitchen at the same time. A fireplace in the veranda will create a special atmosphere Adjustable roof allows you to stay in the shade throughout the day Thanks to a convenient sliding system, this design will break into an open veranda It won’t be cold even in the cold months Two verandas are attached to the apartment building: glazed and without roof The annex serves as an intermediate zone between housing and the street. Even in cold weather, this design will be warmed up by the sun. Tall plants in such a structure will be comfortable
How to attach a veranda to the house: preparation
Before proceeding with the construction of the frame of the veranda, you need to determine the type of future construction. Before the beginning construction work it is necessary to choose a place for its location, make the necessary measurements, prepare materials and install one of the suitable foundations. In order to accurately calculate the required amount of materials and the area of \u200b\u200bland occupied for this extension, you should carefully design it and draw up a drawing.
Types of suitable foundation
If you install a foundation of logs, you should pay special attention to the quality of wood. For supports, oak and larch species that were previously treated with a bitumen mixture or burned are suitable. For these purposes, logs with a diameter of at least 25 cm are used. The method of installing these supports is similar to the erection of a columnar foundation: the bottom of the pits is covered with sand and rammed, after which logs are placed there. For better stability, concrete is poured onto a layer of sand or a wooden cross is installed.
For installation tape base It will take a lot of concrete and reinforcing cage. This foundation is solid walls hidden in the ground. It is intended for heavier buildings. The lower part of this base has an extension, which creates additional stability throughout the building. In cases of unstable or loose soil, the strip foundation can be increased. When installing this base, you must leave holes for summing up the necessary communications.
Tape blocks are very popular. For this, ready-made concrete blocks are purchased, installed in a shallow (from 20 to 30 cm) trench, the bottom of which is tamped with sand. In this case, the block will be deepened into the ground by 2/3 of the slab. It will simultaneously play the role of the foundation and foundation for the floor of the veranda.
The column-pile foundation is a long column. To install it, you need to dig holes with the help of a construction drill. Their depth should be from 40 to 50 cm. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of rubble or gravel. Then they insert a sleeve with a roofing material rolled into a pipe. Concrete is poured into the cavity formed. The supporting column is built on top of the resulting base.
The screw foundation provides for the use of pile elements made of metal, to the ends of which blades of various sizes are welded. This type of foundation is most suitable for unstable soil. Piles are screwed into the ground using manual force or pile-drilling equipment. The strength of the base, in this case, depends on the material of manufacture and the diameter of the pipes. The screwing depth should be below the freezing point. Usually this value is from 70 to 12 cm. Installation of screw piles is convenient in that they can be installed in frozen ground.
Project drawings, dimensions
As an example, an open veranda with a pitched roof mounted on a columnar foundation is presented.
Materials for this design should be selected taking into account the design of the house
This design is a square shape, measuring 490x500 cm. The height to the ceiling beam is 230 cm. The angle of inclination of the roof is 20 °. The distance from the lower trim to the rafters adjacent to the wall of the house will be 420 cm. Since the width of the structure is more than 3 m, intermediate racks of beams with a cross section of 100x150 mm will be used to strengthen it. The distance between the first and second row from the wall of the house is 277 cm. From the second to the third row - 180 cm. From the front side of the rack, the racks are 166 cm apart. The distance between the longitudinal load-bearing beams should be from 80 to 110 cm. For the roof you need roofing material with a total area of \u200b\u200b24.5 m². The height of the foundation pillars, from the ground to the lower trim of the veranda frame, is 145 cm.
On the veranda with such parameters, you can put a couple of chairs with a table, and hang a garden swing.
1 - a supporting board; 2 - longitudinal load-bearing bars; 3 - transverse beam; 4 - racks; 5 - foundation pillars
Material selection and calculation
The most common material for building verandas is wood. It has a clear advantage over brick, metal and metal-plastic buildings. The material is easy to process, which is not characteristic of the metal structure. If during the construction of the veranda use profile pipes, channels or corners, then it is convenient to mount double-glazed windows to such a frame.
An extension of brick requires a deep foundation, and this additional expenses. In addition, much more time will be spent on its construction than on a wooden structure. For cladding verandas closed type mounted glass (double-glazed windows) or polycarbonate. For roofing, metal tiles, bitumen coatings, slate and polycarbonate alloys are used. However, for better sound insulation, you should pay attention to the soft tiles.
The following materials are required for the manufacture of wood frame verandas:
- For the lower and upper harness:
- four beams with a cross section of 100x200 mm, 500 cm long;
- ten bars with a similar section, 490 cm long.
For uprights you must:
- five bars with a cross section of 100x200 mm, 430 cm long (racks attached to the wall of a residential building), and the same amount - 285 cm each (intermediate racks);
- six bars with a section of 100x200 mm, a length of 230 cm (front racks).
- For longitudinal load-bearing elements (rafters) you need seven bars with a section of 100x150 mm, a length of 540 cm.
- For flooring, grooved boards with a section of 100x40 mm and a length of 490 cm are required, on total area in 24.5 m².
- For the roof sheathing, OSB boards are needed.
- For the railing, bars are necessary with a section of 100x100 mm, a total length of 15 m.
- For an x-shaped fence, similar bars are needed, with a total length of 40 m.
- Concrete M-300.
- Ruberoid or boards for formwork.
- Reinforcing rods with a diameter of 10 mm.
- Soft roof tiles are required for the roof to cover 26.5 m².
- Waterproofing material.
Necessary tools
To erect the design of the open veranda, you will need the following tools:
- Helical, bayonet and shovel.
- Concrete mixer.
- Capacity for water.
- Screwdriver.
- Jigsaw.
- Sanding machine.
- Power Planer.
- A hammer.
- Building level.
- Roulette.
- Big square.
- Stairs.
- Cord.
- Pencil.
Step-by-step instruction: how to build a summer terrace
To build a frame veranda, it is necessary to lay the foundation. When installing it, you should adhere to some construction nuances:
- pits and trenches for the veranda should be at the same depth as the foundation of the house to which it is attached;
- if there is unstable soil on the built-up territory or abundant ground water is observed in it, then the pile-screw foundation can cope with this problem;
- it is necessary to determine the ability of the soil to absorb moisture and the uniformity of the earth at the construction site.
Depending on the composition and quality of the soil, an appropriate basis for the frame is selected. In our case, this is a columnar foundation.
The base is a separate concrete pillars installed in the ground. A grillage or harness for walling is fixed on them.
- Make markings for the future veranda using a cord and wooden pegs.
1 - cast out of boards; 2 - cord; 3 - plumb line; 4 - level
- Using a screw shovel, dig holes with a diameter of 40 to 50 cm, to a depth of 60 cm.
- At the bottom of each hole fill in wet sand. It must be tamped to get a sand cushion 20 cm thick.
- To liquid concrete is not absorbed into the sand, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer. For these purposes, use roofing material.
- From the boards to make the formwork. The size of each wall should be 40x90 cm.
- Place reinforcing bars inside the formwork.
- Pour in there concrete mixso that its level rises above the ground by 40 cm.
Reinforcement frame reinforces concrete pillar
- Use the stops to hold the walls of the formwork.
- Leave concrete to harden.
- When the base is sufficiently hardened and pillars are formed, remove the formwork.
- Using the building level, check the vertical position of each pillar.
Optimum dimensions for the base under the veranda
- To process them with bituminous mastic.
- Tamp the soil around the pillars and set the pickup.
- Lay a waterproofing layer on the finished foundation. For this, it is necessary to collapse the roofing material twice.
- From above, install the lower trim of the structure. For this, bars with a section of 100x200 mm are needed. They need to cut out grooves for installing vertical supports.
- On wooden logs, install a floor from grooved boards with a section of 100x40 mm.
- In the grooves, install vertical supports from similar bars.
Grooves make the structure sturdy
- Long supports, using anchors and screws, attach to the wall of the house.
- Mount the upper trim of the structure. The joints of the wooden elements are similar to the bottom trim
- To the upper harness, on the one hand, and the wall of the house on the other, install the rafter system of the extension. Arrange its elements in increments of 50 cm. For this, bars with a section of 100x150 mm are needed.
The design is ready for insulation and decoration
- Fix the frame of the rafter system to the upper harness using metal corners or plates.
Metal connections will not be visible after finishing
- Install the side rails of the veranda.
- To fix the waterproofing on the rafter system, on top of which to fill the crate with a section of 20x40 mm, in increments of 40 cm. Attach OSB-plates to it using screws.
The soft tile is convenient in installation and repair
- Now you can proceed to the installation of roofing material. Laying soft tiles is carried out from the eaves from the center of the ramp. The first row of this coating must be laid 2 cm from the edge of the cornice. Lay layers of tiles with an overlap of 5 - 10 cm. Coat the joints with bituminous mastic. Tile on four sides with nails.
There are many colors and shades of soft roofs.
Final finish
The selected materials for the decoration of the veranda should have not only aesthetic value, but also practical. The open design is exposed to the environment. From this it follows that the finishing materials must be resistant to high humidity and temperature extremes.
The most common material that meets all the requirements of open structures is a wooden lining. It is an environmentally friendly coating that is ideal for wall cladding. The veranda with this finish has a pleasant woody smell. For better joining of wooden elements, their sides are equipped with grooves. To increase the life of this finishing material is pre-treated with antifungal impregnations.
Lining is easy to install, thanks to cutouts at the edges
As the finish finish of the walls of the veranda, MDF boards are used. This material is more suitable for enclosed structures. This is due to the fact that moisture has a detrimental effect on the plates, why they are deformed and lose quality.
Inexpensive and reliable material - MDF boards
The opposite of MDF boards are PVC panels that are moisture resistant. It is convenient to wash this coating, it is fireproof, is made with different texture and color. Installation of these plates is very simple.
Easy to process and install PVC panels
An affordable and practical material for decorating verandas is siding. Its texture usually resembles stone or wood. Available in the form of long panels of various colors and shades. The material is resistant to fire, rot, and has a long service life.
Siding reliably fastens thanks to convenient openings
Due to the variety of shades, it is easy to choose in accordance with the color scheme of buildings on your site. For this, vinyl siding is often used.
To make the exterior of the veranda you need:
How and how to insulate floors and ceiling
When warming the veranda, first of all, it is necessary to pay attention to the floor. This is especially important when the foundation is pile, columnar or without a continuous tape. In this case, from below, it is doused with penofol, after which all the cracks between the boards are putty. As a heater for the floor surface, a carpet or linoleum on a polypropylene basis is suitable.
If you make high-quality insulation, it is necessary to equip the subfloor, followed by filling and installing the final coated surface.
Floors on the veranda can be insulated with expanded clay granules. To do this, on the existing surface, wooden logs are installed from beams with a section of 40x150 mm, with a step of 60 cm. Expanded clay is poured between them, the height of which should not exceed the upper edge of the boards. OSB-plates, on which the final floor is installed, are fixed on top of the logs.
Granules must be evenly spaced
Floors and walls are also insulated with mineral wool. For ease of installation, it is sold in the form of rectangular plates of various thicknesses. To insulate the floor with cotton, you need to cover it with waterproofing material. For this, foamed foamed foam propylene is used. On top of this layer, wooden logs are installed with the same cross section and pitch. Between them tightly stacked slabs of mineral wool. If its thickness is insufficient, then the plates are laid on top of each other, with the condition that they do not rise above the wooden frame. Otherwise, the insulation will doubt and lose its thermal insulation properties. On top of it, to the lags, attach a vapor barrier material. Then the finish is installed.
The form of mineral wool in the form of plates is convenient for installation
As a heater foam foam and polystyrene have proven themselves well. These materials have the same basis, but the foam has a uniform structure, and the foam can crumble. This insulation is available in the form of plates of various thicknesses. As in previous versions, a waterproofing and vapor barrier layer is required for its installation. Plates are fastened in logs with plastic dowels. The joints of the plates are filled with polyurethane foam, which serves as an additional bonding material. OSB boards or tongue-and-groove boards are fixed on top. The ceiling is also insulated by the same principle.
Lightweight and durable material - foam
If the veranda is an open structure, walls of beams are lined around its perimeter. Then, according to the above methods, a heater is installed. Double-glazed windows are inserted into the walls.
Video: do-it-yourself porch
Thanks to a wide range of materials, the appearance of the veranda can be decorated in an original and beautiful way. Having insulated this building, you will enjoy the view not only of flowers, but also of the winter landscape. Lunches or evening tea parties will become more memorable due to natural freshness and soft light at sunset, and rainy weather will not spoil the party in the fresh air.