The connection of the strapping beam on screw piles. Screw pile tying
This page provides information about the technology of arranging different types of strapping. You will learn how to make a grillage from timber, channel and reinforced concrete with your own hands, and get acquainted with the video that reveals in detail the essence of the technology.
The timber grillage has a limited margin of safety, which does not allow it to be used for the construction of heavy brick buildings, however, when building light wooden 1-2-storey houses from utility rooms - baths, garages, verandas, in terms of economy and speed of installation, this is the preferred strapping option.
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The typical size of the strapping beam is 15x15 and 20x20 cm. It is recommended to use coniferous woods, due to their greater durability, in comparison with hardwoods.
Important: only a bar that has undergone chamber drying can be used for strapping, since the material having natural moisture will shrink, which can cause deformation of the walls of the house.
Before installation, the beam must be treated with an antiseptic agent that prevents wood decay and coated with bituminous insulation, which will protect the material from moisture.
Technology of tying screw piles with timber:
- After installation, the supports are leveled at the zero level by trimming with a grinder;
- Heads are welded to the pile shafts. The welded joint is covered with an anti-corrosion primer;
- The surface of the head plate is covered with a waterproofing material (roofing material, glass isol or glassine);
- The beam is adjusted in size according to the length of the walls of the house (one solid beam goes to the side of the building) and at the edges connecting at the corners of the house and at the intersections of the walls, groove joints are cut with a grinder;
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- The beam is installed on top of the pile heads, the final adjustment to size is performed. The joints between the elements of the grillage are sealed with jute;
- With the help of "wood grouses" - wood bolts with hexagonal caps, the beam is fixed on the pile heads (special holes are provided on the plates for mounting the bolt).
Tying with a steel grillage (I-beam, channel)
The strength and safety margin of the metal strapping exceed the similar parameters of the timber grillage, which allows it to be used not only for the construction of frame houses, but also for single-storey structures made of foam concrete blocks.Steel grillage according to the material used is classified into two types:
- I-beam;
- From a channel.
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Important: the choice of material must be made based on the mass of the building - a channel, due to its lower cost, is preferable for the construction of light houses, while an I-beam has better resistance to compressive loads and greater rigidity, which makes it the best choice for heavy buildings.
- I-beam tying is performed using a beam 20 cm high;
- Channel - section 30 or 40 mm.
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The technology of tying screw piles with a grillage from a channel:
- Upon completion of the installation of the foundation, the pillars are aligned at the zero level;
- The dimensions of the grillage parts are measured, the channel is marked and cut into sections of the required length;
- Rolled metal is treated with 1-2 layers of anti-corrosion primer;
- The channel is installed on piles and cut off with a grinder at the junction at an angle of 900;
- The grillage is fixed on piles by welding. Upon completion of the fasteners, the welds are coated with a primer.
Binding with reinforced concrete grillage
A tape grillage made of reinforced concrete is used for tying bored and driven piles. It is suitable for the construction of heavy brick and foam concrete buildings with a height of 1-3 floors. In terms of arrangement, this is the most time-consuming tying option, but its cost is lower than that of an I-beam grillage.Important: reinforced concrete grillage is subject to mandatory reinforcement, which is carried out by a spatial reinforcement cage, consisting of 2 longitudinal reinforcement belts connected by transverse and vertical jumpers. The step between the jumpers is 20-30 cm. These can be pieces of reinforcement welded with a rectangle or clamps curved into the appropriate shape.
Rice. 1.7: Scheme of reinforced concrete grillage
Corrugated rods with a diameter of 12 to 18 mm are used to assemble the frame. The grillage body is made of M300-M400 grade concrete with crushed granite filler.
Technology of binding with reinforced concrete grillage:
- The trunks of concrete piles are leveled at the zero level using a grinder with a diamond wheel, a hammer or a special hydraulic chipper - a pile cutter. Only the concrete of the piles is destroyed, while the protrusions are left intact;
- Along the perimeter of the piles, sand filling is arranged (up to the level of the trunks), on top of which the lower wall of the formwork is laid. Next, the side walls are installed, after which the structure is strengthened with stops and jumpers that tighten the walls along the upper contour;
- The formwork is lined with waterproofing from the inside;
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- The frame is being assembled - the reinforcement is joined by welding or wire. The finished frame on special fungus stands is installed inside the formwork and welded to the rods protruding from the piles;
- The grillage is concreted, after pouring the concrete is compacted by vibrating or bayoneting with reinforcing bars.
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It takes 25-30 days to set the design strength of the grillage, after which you can begin to raise the walls of the house.
Features of strapping
When tying piles, it is necessary to correctly choose the level of its placement, according to which reinforced concrete grillages are classified into:- hanging;
- Ground;
- In-depth.
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In conditions of stable soil, the easiest way to arrange the strapping will be a ground grillage, which is located on the surface of the soil. Piles with a ground grillage are classified as a pile-strip foundation - this is a reliable foundation with a high bearing capacity, which is achieved by increasing the bearing area of the foundation with a tape in contact with the ground.
However, in soil prone to heaving, this tying option is not applicable due to the risk of separation of the grillage from the pile shafts by pushing loads. Here it is necessary to equip a hanging grillage, raised above the ground to a height of 20-40 cm.
In-depth grillage - a structure that is placed in the thickness of the soil. Under the supporting sole of the grillage, the soil is replaced with a sand and gravel cushion that is not subject to heaving. Such a grillage is used in the construction of heavy multi-storey buildings, for which the safety margin of the hanging strapping is not enough.
Video of tying the pile foundation
Check out the video, which demonstrates the technology of tying piles with grillages of various types.Video #1: Tying piles with timber
Video #2: Piling of piles with a channel
Video #3: Tying piles with reinforced concrete grillage
We carry out work
Our company provides pile driving and sheet piling, to contact us about these services, use the form below.The reliability of a pile-screw foundation, as, indeed, of any other building foundation, depends on compliance with technological recommendations, as well as on the correctness of its geometric parameters. Today we will consider the main points regarding the arrangement of the wooden piping of the pile-screw foundation. We will learn about possible errors, as well as the rules that must be followed, from the experience of FORUMHOUSE users.
In this article, we will consider the following questions:
- What design of the wooden strapping is considered the grossest violation of the existing technology.
- From what it is better to mount the binding of screw piles - from solid or from stacked timber.
- How to properly join the timber on the pile heads.
- How to prepare a beam for installation on piles.
- In what sequence is the wooden strapping mounted.
Suppose that the pile part of the foundation is already ready for you: the piles are screwed into the ground, the heads are welded, and the deviation of the horizontal level of the screw piles corresponds to the permissible errors. We will not take responsibility, arguing about what distance should be between the piles, to what depth they should be screwed into the ground. Also, we will not give advice on the appropriate diameter of the piles. These questions can be reasonably answered only by professional designers, who should be contacted for appropriate calculations. To begin with, we want to warn you against a serious mistake that many non-professional developers are tempted to make.
Removal of load-bearing walls outside the pile foundation
Sometimes private developers try to find solutions that save on the purchase of building materials and the work of screwing in additional piles. At the same time, they forget about the strength of the building structure, which can be violated very recklessly.
Here is an example of a gross violation of construction technology, the photo shows the removal of the outer wall beyond the pile row.
What can you recommend to people who put dubious savings at the forefront? Most importantly - do not allow amateur performance, and then everything will work out for you. If building codes provide for the installation of piles under each corner or wall of the future premises, then so be it. There is no need to make any overhangs and indents that do not have support under them in the form of a pile firmly screwed into the ground. This will not lead to a cheaper design, but it will provide additional problems for the developer.
Guffych FORUMHOUSE user
If you make an overhang or indent, then this design will hang on the logs. In this case, you will have to make a double strapping from the inside and somehow connect it to the outer overhang (so that the structure does not completely disperse). Cheaper (due to savings on piles) will not work, since you will have to spend money on strengthening the lower floor, but this will add specific problems.
If it is planned to attach additional architectural elements to the house (a veranda or, for example, a porch), their corners should also be supported by metal piles.
landuser FORUMHOUSE user
In general, according to the technology of building a pile-screw foundation, piles must be placed under all cuts, corners and load-bearing walls. This is the most important rule.
Beam or board - which is better?
Let's talk about what material is better to use to create a wooden harness. Building codes allow the use of a solid wooden beam (150x150, 150x200 200x200) or a beam sewn from several boards (50x200). The type-setting beam qualitatively replaces the solid beam and even surpasses it in some characteristics. Three boards sewn together replace a 150x200 beam, while four boards are similar to a 200x200 beam.
A beam, one side of which is 200 mm, is laid on the heads with a smaller side. The height of the strapping in this case is equal to 200 mm.
Both options (both with a bar and with a board) are popular and both are correct. At the same time, having studied the advantages and disadvantages of each material, many developers make their choice in favor of a stitched board.
AlexSpb FORUMHOUSE user
Why would you use a 150*200 beam? Knock down instead of it 3 boards 50 * 200 and do not suffer with this log. This topic is constantly raised on the forum.
The word "log" was mentioned by the user for a reason. A solid bar is a relatively heavy building material and, in the conditions of a limited number of workers, it will be very difficult to move it from place to place (even in a small construction site). In addition, a solid beam does not resist bending well (worse, in any case, than boards placed on edge), which makes its use less practical.
Boards, unlike timber, must be firmly connected to each other before installation on piles. And this is an additional cost, and this, perhaps, is their main drawback.
builder FORUMHOUSE user
The boards are hammered together with nails in two rows with a step of 20 cm. On each head, they are fastened not with one capercaillie, but with four.
As for the length of the nails: for a composite beam of three boards (50x200), nails with a length of 90 - 120 mm are sufficient. They break through from two sides in a checkerboard pattern, as indicated by the builder user. The distance between the nails is 20 ... 45 cm. If the beam is made up of four boards, first 3 boards are knocked together, then the fourth is attached to them (with exactly the same nails).
Now let's talk about the "capercaillie" mentioned in the quote. "Capercaillie" is a fastener - a self-tapping screw, the head of which is made in the form of a hexagon (for a wrench or wrench).
With the help of a capercaillie, the beam is attached to the pile head (the capercaillie is screwed in from below).
The diameter of the capercaillie for fixing the strapping beam is 8…10 mm, its length is 100…150 mm.
To prevent the timber or composite beams from splitting while screwing capercaillie, it is necessary to pre-drill a hole in the wood.
A small table will help determine the diameter of the drill.
Technology of joining and building timber
The length of a wooden beam (both solid and composite) rarely corresponds to the distance between the pile heads. In order to fit the beams to the dimensions of the foundation, they have to be cut or sewn together. When building a beam, one important rule must be observed.
Any joints must have a fulcrum under them. This applies to stacked beams, and solid timber.
builder
The joints of the boards do not need to be made hanging. Dock the boards on the pile heads.
By splicing timber in this way, you will increase the consumption of wood, but ensure the strength of the pile strapping.
It is also necessary to splice the timber on the pile heads correctly. If a solid beam is spliced, then cuts are made on two adjacent beams. On one beam, the upper half of the timber is sawn, on the other - the lower. After that, both beams are connected to the castle. Such a join is called a "half-tree join".
At first glance, everything looks extremely simple. But there is an important rule for connecting two elements of one load-bearing beam: both adjacent beams, and not one, must rest on the pile head at the connection point of the load-bearing beams. Let's start with an example of an incorrect connection.
Dimc FORUMHOUSE user
The platform for supporting the beam on the head (at the junction of two runs) must have a length of at least 90 mm. In the figure, the beams are "cut" at the junction. One has the upper half “slaughtered”, the other has the lower half. If the beam rests on the pile head only with the "stabbed" part, then its working section should be taken as the section of only this part. If the beam rests on the head completely (at least 90 mm in length), then everything is correct: the strapping will work like a solid beam.
The run in this case is the carrier beam in the frame house piping.
This rule also applies to gusset corners. Here are examples of the correct adjunctions of the timber.
The main schemes for connecting the beam (top view).
In order for the beam to have a sufficient area of support, the pile heads must initially have dimensions corresponding to the cross section of the beam.
The question arises by itself: how to lay a beam at the junction of several beams (for example, if three beams are joined at once on one head)? Here's what the experience of our users suggests.
Dimc
Beam connections can be arranged in two ways. In the first case (when all beams are load-bearing), in order to provide sufficient support area, it is necessary to increase the head. In the second (when only one beam is the carrier) - we put the carrier beam on the head, and the auxiliary beam can be attached to the suspension - this is the part (in the fastener stores it is called the "beam holder").
The increase in the support area is carried out according to the following scheme:
With the correct placement of piles, even auxiliary beams will have several points of support, which will make the foundation structure strong enough.
If the design of the strapping is approached more rationally, if, where possible, beams of small width are used, then there should be no problems with building the correct junctions. Here is an example of tying a frame house.
Dimc
I designed the harness as follows: the girders (main beams), marked with green arrows, are load-bearing. The outer beams consist of 3 boards 50x200, the middle one - from 4 boards 50x200. And the beams marked with yellow arrows are auxiliary (non-bearing) and consist of 1 board 50x200. They serve to increase the overall rigidity of the structure.
Type-setting load-bearing beams (beams from boards) at the junctions must also have sufficient support area. We present to your attention examples of the correct connections of the type-setting beam in various sections of the strapping.
Preparation of timber for installation on piles
The preparation of the strapping for installation on piles consists in treating the wood with antiseptic compounds, as well as cutting the blanks of the required length. For antiseptic treatment, bioprotective compounds are best suited, which at the same time are capable of performing the functions of a primer. You can get acquainted with the recommendations of developers regarding the use of certain protective compounds here.
Some developers tend to dry the wood to the optimum moisture content before installing the strapping. What should be the humidity of the timber used for the construction of the strapping? Experienced FORUMHOUSE users believe that if the wood has a marketable appearance, if its moisture content does not differ from the extreme values, then it is better to use it for the construction of strapping in the form in which it was purchased. And drying a board or a bar at home will do more harm than good.
Kedruchu FORUMHOUSE user
It is necessary to dry the timber in a special chamber, and not behind a barn or under a film. They build a harness immediately after buying wood, and it dries already inside the building structure. Everything that had time to lie down before construction, then only good for firewood, alas.
This advice is for those who do not want to get a timber twisted in all possible directions after inept drying.
The sequence of construction and fastening of the strapping
First of all, the beam, impregnated with an antiseptic and cut in accordance with pre-designed markings, is laid out on pile heads. The cuts and grooves in the wood are also made in advance.
After that, you can proceed to the most crucial stage - to align the strapping along the diagonals and along the length of the beam.
Remember: errors made during screwing piles are normal. The pile heads can be offset by 1-2 cm away from a straight line, but the piping that is installed on them must have a perfectly even geometry.
If at the base of the house you have a rhombus (instead of a clear rectangle or square), then you will never be able to align the walls and roof of the house. It is for this reason that the focus should be on the geometry of the strapping, and not on the alignment of the heads.
The diagonals of the strapping, laid but not yet fixed on piles, must be checked and leveled several times. Only after that the beam can be fixed at the corner points of the pile foundation.
Having fixed the corners, you should check the geometry of the side and inner beams. To do this, use a rope stretched between the corners along each side of the harness.
Fully fasten the side and inner beams to the pile heads in turn, checking them for displacements away from the straight line.
Leo060147 FORUMHOUSE user
Do I need to put something between the heads and the beam during the construction of the harness? There is no point in such waterproofing. Unlike concrete or other porous materials, metal does not have capillaries. Therefore, capillary moisture from its surface can not get on the beam or any other material.
For those who wish to learn from people wise by experience, we recommend visiting the relevant topic, open for discussion on our portal. An article about how to help you save a lot on labor-intensive construction activities. And a video about how important functions pile piping is designed to perform will be interesting for everyone who plans to start building a wooden house in the near future.
Pile-screw foundations are quite popular among private developers. They are especially in demand during the construction of relatively lightweight frame houses or buildings made of timber. Such designs of the bases are chosen because of the affordable price, quick installation. And in some cases, due to the features of the relief or the characteristics of the soil at the construction site, they become the only possible solution.
The foundation of screw piles does not require preliminary heavy excavation, as they are screwed into the ground, to a certain depth, and with a step calculated in the project. These parameters depend on the massiveness of the future structure, the composition of the soil, the depth of its freezing and the level of groundwater. The convenience of this type of construction is that the creation of a pile field can be completed in a matter of days, after which you can immediately proceed to the next stage of work. And this stage necessarily becomes the binding of the foundation on screw piles.
This process should be carried out according to one of the existing technologies, since the strength of its walls and the duration of the operation of the house will depend on it. Therefore, this stage must be approached with all responsibility, having previously decided on the material that will be used to equip the strapping.
The pile foundation consists of several elements - these are screw or driven piles, which are the supports for the rest of the structure, and the piping, which already serves as the basis for further construction and installation work.
By themselves, screw piles have a very significant bearing capacity. They are screwed in so that the propeller blades rest against dense layers of soil. And the ability of such a support to withstand vertically directed loads depends and from technical characteristics of the pile itself, and on the characteristics of the soil at the construction site.
). A small consumption of building materials, minimal earthworks and the ability to do without special equipment can save a lot of money.
To give the structure strength and reliability, free-standing supports are combined into a single rigid system using a grillage (). This is the binding of the foundation, designed to evenly distribute the load from the building to the ground.
By location relative to ground level, the strapping can be:
- buried - immersed in the ground in such a way that its upper face is on the same level with the ground;
- elevated - lying on the ground;
- high (hanging) - raised above the ground by 150 mm or higher.
The latter option is used on heaving soils. The first - buried - is used extremely rarely and only on inactive soils.
Depending on the materials used, there are four types of tying pile foundations:
- channel;
- I-beam;
- reinforced concrete monolithic tape;
- bar.
The metal strapping is highly durable, but it is very difficult to mount it without a truck crane.
Reinforced concrete grillage is stronger than metal grillage. It can be built on your own, but the labor costs for its arrangement are high. In addition, the construction time is being delayed: work has to be suspended until the concrete gains the necessary strength.
When building private houses from light building materials, it is quite possible to get by with timber: wooden piping is cheaper than metal and reinforced concrete, it is quickly mounted and has sufficient strength.
Features of tying piles with timber
As a starting material, you can use a beam with a section of 150x200 mm or boards 50x200 mm, assembled into a composite beam. With a distance between supports not exceeding 2.5 meters, such a structure can easily withstand the weight of a two-story frame-type building.
The lower trim of the frame house on screw piles simultaneously plays the role of an intermediate link in fastening the walls of the structure to the foundation. Consequently, the responsibility for the uniform distribution of the load lies with it. Therefore, it is especially important to avoid uneven height of the screws.
If such an incident happened, and the beam hung in the void above one of the piles, the situation can be corrected by hammering a wooden gasket into the void through the waterproofing layer.
But it is better not to allow such a problem in the first place.
Video about the types of tying the foundation on screw piles.
The popularity of columnar and pile foundations is gaining momentum every year. And no wonder - their installation requires less effort, time and money compared to tape or slab bases. Any hardworking owner can build a columnar foundation, but there is one point that should be given special attention - tying the pile foundation. This is what will be discussed in our article.
Compared to installing the pillars or piles themselves, tying such a foundation is more time-consuming work, so why is it needed? To deal with this issue, it is necessary to understand the principle of operation of the pile foundation. As a rule, it is installed under light buildings like frame houses, baths, gazebos, verandas and terraces. At the same time, this type of foundation is quite cheap compared to the rest, and work on it takes several times less time. The pile foundation consists of several elements - piles. These are pillars made of metal or reinforced concrete, driven into the ground to a certain depth (usually it is just below the freezing level of the soil). The poles hold the box of the house above the ground, protecting the lower part of it from contact with the surface, moisture and destructive influences. However, the pillars themselves do not do a good job of evenly distributing the load from the house, which ultimately leads to distortions and destruction of the building. Strapping also prevents such a development of events. Strapping is called horizontal elements (beams, metal corners, channels), which connect all the pillars to each other into a single structure. The strapping simultaneously serves as the basis and support for laying wall material: timber, logs, SIP panels, etc. Tying a pile foundation with a bar is called a grillage, and it is one of the most reliable and durable. Types of harnessesThe purpose of the strapping is to combine the columnar foundation into a solid structure and distribute the load from the gravity of the building on the piles. In some cases, you can do without it, for example, if the height of the piles above the ground does not exceed 50 cm. But if this distance is more than 50-60 cm, the strapping is absolutely necessary, otherwise the house will not stand idle for a long time. Also, the connection of piles should certainly be done if the house is built from foam blocks, bricks or aerated concrete. Types of harnesses depending on the material used: ![]() Strapping methodsBefore proceeding with the piping of the pile foundation, it is necessary to clearly determine the installation method for yourself, as well as select the materials. Modern builders use the following methods for installing piping on piles:
I would also like to mention the fastening of beam beams during the construction of a wooden grillage. This can be done in two ways: connect with a direct joint or an oblique cut with overlapping of the joint with boards or install a Gerber lamellar hinge. In the latter case, the timber is spliced in height with screw studs, which makes the entire strapping less susceptible to soil movements and post subsidence. Do-it-yourself external piping of the pile foundation with a timber should be done double, which we will talk about a little later. For the manufacture of internal runs take a beam of 150 mm. The end connections of the girders and the attachment points with transverse piles are made with galvanized clamp plates or steel corners. Strapping technologyIn the old days, almost all houses were built from wood, and even the foundations were built from durable wood. In our time, this approach may seem at least strange and inefficient, but, nevertheless, some of the houses built in this way still stand to this day. The secret of durability is quite simple - a pillow made of a mixture of clay and sand was laid on the ground, and a starting crown made of oak logs was placed on it. It was carefully smeared with tar or tree resin. This crown simultaneously served as the foundation, and the strapping and the basis for the construction of walls. If you look at modern methods of installing strapping, you can find out the main stages of the old technology: strong thick wood is laid on an insulated base, covered with protective compounds, and walls are built on the resulting base. Strip foundationStrapping may be needed not only for pile, but also for strip foundations. In this case, the walls built of timber or rounded logs are quite problematic to attach to a concrete base. That is why the first crown is a thick wooden beam - a grillage. Anchor bolts or embedded studs are used to fasten the timber to the reinforced concrete tape. How to install the strapping on the strip foundation:
After installing the bottom strapping, you can proceed with the installation of the frame for the walls. The described technique is suitable not only for strip foundations, but also for other foundations with minor amendments and technical nuances. pile foundationProfessional builders in their practice of mounting a strapping from a bar to screw piles use two technologies: threaded fastening and clamps. Such a double fixation gives confidence that the beam will last as long as possible and will securely hold the box with all the pillars of the foundation. The only thing that should never be forgotten is the treatment of all wooden materials with antiseptics, and metal materials with anti-corrosion compounds. Moreover, it is recommended to do this once a year with the onset of warm and dry weather. How to tie a pile-screw foundation:
This method of fastening must be done with all piles, carefully making sure that not a single untreated area remains. It should be taken into account that if the piles are located in such a way that it is impossible to fix the bars between them at the bottom and on the sides (the piles are not located in the form of a flange), fixing with clamps is preferred to a threaded connection. To do this, bars are laid on the tops of the piles, fastening them with self-tapping screws or welding, if the pile foundation is tied with a channel. In the process of joining, make sure that the upper plane of the beam is perfectly even. If it is skewed, the walls will be uneven, so use a water or laser level regularly. Connect around the entire perimeter. Between the pile beams on the horizontal bars, put on wooden blocks in the shape of the letter "P". These bars are called collars, and they should be smaller in size than the main bars. Thus, you will provide additional fixation of the elements. The ends of the clamps must be facing down. Subsequently, they are fastened to adjacent pile pillars using threads or galvanized steel corners. If none of the fasteners stagger, then the work is done well. Finally, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with useful tips that will help you tie the pile foundation with a corner, channel or beam as efficiently and quickly as possible. First, before laying beams or metal beams on piles, make sure that they (piles) have the same height. Otherwise, the binding will not converge. Secondly, during the installation of the strapping, make sure that the screws are located strictly in the center of the beam, otherwise it may crack. The quality of the timber also plays an important role. It is necessary to buy unspoiled by pests and well-dried material with the least number of knots. The humidity level of the timber should not exceed 18%, otherwise it will deform during the drying process. Remember that the strapping should be twice as wide as the posts. Only then can the design be strong and durable. Video about tying a pile foundation with a bar and the advantage of this method:
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