We build a house ourselves with our own hands interesting projects. DIY frame house: photos of construction stages
For me, it was a matter of principle to choose exactly the option when, with the least labor and material costs, you can quickly and efficiently build a full-fledged residential building for a family.
Having studied several sources and many options, I decided to stay on the option, and took as a basis the typical project "Canadian - 1".
I really liked this compact two-storey house of 7x7.5 m, and after making the necessary calculations, I decided that such a project was quite within my power and resources.
In the presence of a sufficient number of living rooms and utility rooms, it looks relatively small, and the cost of construction is several times less than when building a brick house of the same dimensions.
A typical project involves the consumption of materials in the following sizes:
Edged boards 5x15 cm - 25m3;
Roofing board 2.5x15 cm - 3m3;
Expanded polystyrene for insulation - 25m3;
Rolled isolon for insulation - 5 rolls;
Polyurethane foam - 30 fl;
OSB - 200 sheets;
Roof waterproofer - 3 rolls;
Soft roof - area 70 m2;
cement, tar, solvent, antiseptic, anchor bolts.
According to the project, on the ground floor there is a living room with a kitchen and a large dining room, a bathroom and a small hall with a vestibule from the front door. The second floor consists of three living rooms, a small common hall and a fairly spacious bathroom. The project was also attracted by the fact that the garage has a common wall with the house, which saves materials and additional thermal insulation.
I chose a project, prepared the necessary materials for the first stage of work and began construction.
Before you build a house with your own hands, we put the foundation
A properly set foundation is a guarantee of how long the house will last, and how comfortable it will be to live in it. Since my site is on the bank of a river and the groundwater is high, in order to avoid dampness, I did not make a basement and decided to make a foundation according to TISE on concrete piles.
My task was to build a house with my own hands cheaply, and therefore the option on the pillars also came up to me because of its low cost.
For the piles, I used second-hand asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 250 mm., 2.5 m long. The pipes were deepened into the ground by one and a half meters, so that a column 1 meter high would emerge above the ground. He reinforced them with fiberglass reinforcement with a diameter of 16 mm, poured concrete mortar and reinforced anchor bolts No. 22 at the top of each column.
In a month, I put up 24 pillars with my own hands - the basis for the future home. The concrete in each column hardened for two weeks. This time was spent on the purchase and delivery of materials for strapping the foundation.
As soon as the concrete finally grabbed, I started strapping - I first chose the grooves for better strapping from the ends of the timber with a section of 15 cm, and deepened the sockets for fastening the anchor bolts at the joints.
According to my calculations, it took me a little more than 30,000 rubles to build one - the cost of the material.
In order to fix the frame as reliably as possible when assembling the strapping, I put a wide washer under each nut - this way I tightened the nuts all the way without the risk of unnecessarily damaging the bars. In the course of work, he simultaneously processed the entire structure with tar antiseptic and made waterproofing with construction tar.
In this form, the foundation easily survived the winter, and I was convinced that I made the right choice.
To build a wooden house with our own hands, we begin to erect the frame of the first floor and make its strapping
You can see from my step-by-step photos how to build a house with your own hands, without using heavy equipment, additional labor and unnecessary funds.
With the onset of the first fine spring days, I took up the installation of the walls of the first floor. The principle of erecting a frame dwelling is that the finished frame parts are installed in their proper place and fixed there.
I assembled the structural elements piece by piece on a flat area, and then lifted them to the foundation and fastened them one by one to the base and to each other. In addition, I assembled technical openings for windows and doors separately and also raised them to the walls for fastening.
Since the structures are relatively small, I practically did this work alone, I only resorted to the help of my wife to hold the structure while I was doing the fastenings.
Sheets of roofing material must be laid between the foundation and parts of the structure.
In a month, I managed to put three walls on the first floor.
When installing the structures, I adhered to the fact that the racks of the frames were at a distance of 60 cm from each other, since the standard width of the OSB sheet is 120 cm.
I adhered to the same principle when installing floor transfers.
It took me two more days off to bring out all the walls of the first floor - I really wanted to quickly build a house with my own hands.
Of course, thinking about how to build a beautiful house with my own hands, I studied a lot of reference material, including the book “Individual house“ platform ”- it inspired me to be creative!
Taking the "Canadian" project as a basis, during construction I made a frame in accordance with the provided assembly technology. And although I changed something in the course of the work at my own discretion, I did not change the basis of the project in order to avoid incorrect distribution of the load on the supporting structural elements.
As a result, I got such a frame of the first floor:
Simultaneously with raising the walls of the first floor, I began to assemble the frame of the future interfloor staircase.
The next step in solving the problem of how to build a frame house with your own hands is the process of strapping the first floor.
To do this, lay an isolon folded in two layers on all the upper edges of the structure and then lay a board 5 cm thick around the entire perimeter.
Our ceiling joists are also floor translations for the second floor. Therefore, we lay them apart from each other with an interval of 60 cm, fastening to the harness.
Good weather works well, and the results are obvious.
Now I know for sure that anyone can build a wooden house with their own hands. This is a job, the main thing in which is to comply with all the required standards and do everything with the utmost care - only then can you build a house correctly with your own hands.
For those who are interested in this issue, my step-by-step photos will help you build a frame house with your own hands.
In this photo of mine, you can see that the frame of the first floor and the floors are fully completed. This is such a beautiful "platform" I ended up with.
The work does not always go fast, and on the next weekend I was able to do little - the intense heat prevented. But the staircase, which I did install, served as an additional anchorage and added rigidity to the overall structure of the first floor.
A lot has been done in a relatively short period of time, considering that I worked practically alone.
By the way, since according to the project there should be a two-meter-wide balcony-terrace over the southern side of the house, I set the ceiling joists above this part of the first floor of the required length so that they protrude 2 meters beyond the boundary of the wall structure.
Wooden parts in the right places were additionally fastened together with metal corners. To screw in the screws, I used an electric drill with a special mount for self-tapping screws.
As a result, the translations of interfloor floors look like this:
Of course, it is difficult to calculate all the construction costs in advance - there are a lot of factors that affect the change in the final cost of the project. Moreover, you still need to solve the problem of how to build a beautiful house with your own hands, and not just put a wooden box.
When building the foundation, frame of the first floor and floors, I spent about 80,000 rubles on materials.
The approximate amount that I plan to meet in order to build a house out of wood with my own hands is 500 thousand rubles.
The next stage in completing the task of how to build a frame house with your own hands - we begin to build the second floor, and sheathe the structure with OSB sheets
It is very hard to work in hot weather, especially at altitude. Therefore, construction is progressing slowly. I assemble the wall frame on the ground, then lift it up and put it in place. With careful work during the assembly of structures, their docking at the place of fasteners does not present any difficulties.
The photo shows how the first wall of the second floor was installed:
On hot days it was impossible to work more than three to four hours, so in the very middle of summer work slowed down a little. But as soon as the intense heat subsided, work continued at the same pace. Simultaneously with the side walls of the second floor, I brought out the end walls "under the roof".
It was already difficult to work here alone to build a house of wood with your own hands, so he invited two assistants, and the heavy facade structures were lifted with a rope and inclined guides.
Together with the installation of facade structures, we made a screed for the ridge and starting rafters.
Having finished assembling the wooden structures of the walls and the ridge, I proceeded to paneling the walls - it went much more fun. First, I paneled the corners of the walls.
OSB tried to do the work on sheathing with sheets in a few days - he did not want to risk it and decided to protect the inside of the structures from the threat of getting wet during the rains. You can see from my photos how I managed to build a house with my own hands almost alone.
How to build a roof of a house with your own hands?
This was the very question I faced as soon as I finished building the walls.
Before that, I did almost all the main work myself, occasionally resorting to outside help when it was necessary to support part of the structure or raise heavy facade parts to the second floor.
And now, in order to solve the question of how to build a roof of a house with our own hands, when it came to the roof lathing, I had to call another assistant, since he is not very successful in working on the rafters alone. Together, the work went much more fun.
Just like the ceilings on the first floor, I put a 5 cm thick board onto the rafters, and installed the rafters also at intervals of 60 cm, so that then lay the OSB sheet on a base of three boards.
On top of the rafters, my assistant and I made the installation of a vapor barrier, using 3 rolls of a hydrotechnical membrane for the roof.
OSB sheets were laid on top of the vapor barrier material. They were lifted to the roof in the same way as the facade frames.
One side of the roof was already covered with OSB. There are small areas and one more slope. Since autumn is approaching and the rains are frequent, I dropped all other things and came to grips with the roof - to protect the frame from excessive wetting. The work is hard, but perseverance wins everything, and the assistant is very helpful.
At this stage, it took me to build 7 cubes of a 150x50 board; almost two - 200x50; and 65 sheets of OSB - for the outer cladding, without floor and partitions.
All the sawn timber has practically gone into business, only the smallest cuttings - no more than 20 cm, I put for further use as fuel - on a fire or in a smokehouse. If you use the material sparingly and carefully, then you can build a house relatively cheaply with your own hands.
But since this season I am physically unable to sheathe the house with siding, so that heavy and frequent rains do not spoil the material, I decided to process the slabs with tar diluted in a solvent.
The house has temporarily acquired a gloomy black appearance, but now it is reliably protected from moisture and destruction.
How to build a house made of wood with your own hands: insulation and sound insulation
When I finished the exterior work, during the rainy weather I did a little work on the interior as well - I insulated and at the same time made soundproofing of the floors with foam plates.
The cracks between the joints and the walls are propenylated with polyurethane foam using a pistol. From the bottom I hemmed OSB sheets with wood screws to the floor slabs of the first floor, having previously supported them with spacers. It is very important to properly build a house with your own hands - in this way, I not only protected the internal structures from a strong temperature drop, but also protected the foam from destruction by mice, who are very fond of settling in it.
The floor inside the room was covered separately in rooms, so as not to damage the foam in the ceilings.
On top of the log on the floor he laid an isolon and attached it with a construction stapler, and on top - sheets of OSB, which he laid on the floor in a checkerboard pattern. This is important because the floors will squeak heavily when stacking sheets that are joined at the four corners.
Gradually, the interior of the house is transformed and takes on an attractive appearance. Here you can already come to grips with internal work on wall insulation.
The work in the construction season was completed, I closed the window openings for the winter with OSB sheets and tightened it with a film, and mothballed the construction of the house until next spring.
So, I coped with the main work and my dream - to build a house out of wood with my own hands - is close to completion. In winter, weather permitting, I will take on the interior finishing work, and with the onset of spring, the work will boil with renewed vigor.
I hope I told in detail and proved with the help of a photo - you can build a frame house with your own hands!
Perhaps some of you, after reading my article, will be eager to build, and the photos given here will help him with this.
Recently, fewer and fewer people want to live in a cramped and stuffy city, preferring to move to their own country house. It would seem, what are the problems? You just need to sell an apartment and buy real estate outside the city. But this property is, alas, several times more expensive than the largest apartment.
Do not despair, there is a way out - to build a house on your own. If you figure it out, there is nothing difficult in building a house, the main thing is to draw up an action plan and strictly follow it.
The problem of cheap housing is becoming more and more urgent. Many scientists have worked on it, and some have achieved some success. Among them, it is worth noting Berok Khoshnevis, a professor from the United States who developed a 3D printer. This device is capable of building a house with a total area of 300 m² per day. Agree, not a single even the most experienced team is capable of investing in such a period.
But the cost of a 3D printer (in fact, like its operation) is very expensive, not everyone can afford it. Therefore, during construction, it is more expedient to use a less expensive way to save money - to use cheap building materials.
Do-it-yourself cheap house: where to start?
Let's make a reservation right away that an unauthorized building must be legalized and you need to register it as property. To do this as quickly as possible, follow all government standards. First of all, draw up a competent plan of the site and the future house (it is better to entrust this matter to a qualified architect). In this plan, engineering communications are distributed, the method of pouring the foundation and building materials are chosen. With a plan in hand, you can easily bring your low-cost home project to life.
In addition, during the preparatory work, determine the order of construction. It will look something like this:
- pouring the foundation;
- building a "box" at home;
- carrying out all the necessary communications;
- floor laying;
- roof construction (preferably in autumn or spring).
Following a simple technology, you can easily build a cozy, inexpensive home.
Stage one: foundation of the house
Step 1. First of all, decide what type of foundation is suitable for the soil in your area. Dig a meter-long hole, if the soil is sandy, clayey or stony, and there is no water at the bottom, then you can safely build a strip foundation about 70-80 cm deep. But if there is still water, then the depth of the base should exceed 1 m.
Step 2. Then remove the top layer of earth and mark the perimeter. Using the markings, dig a trench to the required depth and cover the bottom with a sand cushion.
Step 3. Build the formwork using boards or plywood. Then mix the foundation mortar using cement, crushed stone and coarse sand. In this case, the thicker the solution, the stronger the base (ideally, the consistency should be like thick sour cream). Make the width of the foundation 20 cm wider than the width of the walls. Be sure to reinforce it with metal reinforcement.
Step 4. Install a waterproofing layer - this will prevent the formation of cracks on the foundation and, therefore, increase its service life. Use roofing material for this, putting it in two layers at ground level. Then add the base to the required height.
Step 5. After the insulating layer, lay out the foundation with concrete blocks or bricks. Make ventilation holes in two opposite walls to prevent moisture build-up in the floor. Then give the structure a little time to dry and install the waterproofing (here you can use any available material).
Note! The final drying and shrinkage of the foundation will occur only a few months after the construction, so do not rush to build the walls.
Stage two: walls
There are two ways to build walls.
- A more reliable and, accordingly, expensive method consists in the construction of reinforced columns at the corners of the future house. Gather the reinforcement rods in a "bundle", set them in the corners and fill them with concrete. In this case, you first need to build wooden formwork and after that start pouring.
- If for one reason or another you cannot use the first method, then when building walls, simply reinforce them with reinforcement.
For walls, use one of the following materials:
- foam concrete;
- brick;
- shell rock;
- adobe;
- clay and glass bottles.
The cheapest of them is foam concrete, but it will not allow the walls to "breathe". Rakushnyak is more expensive, but it is it that experts recommend for the construction of inexpensive houses. In this case, window and door openings will need strengthening, so equip them with metal corners.
The already finished "box" needs to be insulated. Use glass wool and brick for this. Lay the brick on the outside of the "box" so that there is a small gap between it and the shell. Fill this gap with glass wool - this material will not only insulate the house, but also protect it from the penetration of insects and rodents.
Note! Not all partitions can be used with drywall or brick. In the central part of the house, there should always be load-bearing walls, erected taking into account the running communications (that is, with the places left under them).
For load-bearing partitions, use metal profiles - install them, sheathe them with drywall and plaster.
Stage three: communications
Any house, even the cheapest one, needs water supply, heating and other communications. In this case, all communications must be carried out, having previously coordinated them with specialists - this will be a guarantee of safety and correct installation.
Heating
Use a gas boiler as a heat generator. This will significantly reduce heating costs, especially in winter. And in view of the fact that the cold comes mainly from the ground, give preference to a "warm floor" - make it from plastic pipes and fill it with a concrete screed. This will heat the whole house, but if this does not seem enough, then install the main heating system.
Another heating option is an alternative, based on the use of solar and wind energy. Having built a solar panel with your own hands, you will not freeze in your house even in winter.
Plumbing, sewerage system
Lay both communications before finishing and pouring the floor. Decide in advance on the location of the rooms and household appliances that need drainage, and lay the pipes in accordance with the drawn up plan.
If the central sewerage and water supply is not available, it is worth considering building a small septic tank, for example, from euro cubes or concrete rings, as well as water supply. You can build a well or drill a well as a source of water. However, the second option will hit your pocket hard.
Stage four: gender
At the end of the installation of communications, fill the floor with a concrete screed. Then cover with any suitable material - linoleum, tiles, laminate flooring, etc. Nevertheless, it is recommended to use tiles, as the most practical and damage-resistant material. It is easy to clean and never cold when using underfloor heating. Moreover, you can pick up the cheapest tiles and cover them with cozy paths.
Stage five: roof and slab
At this point in the work, build a concrete belt around the walls to support the beams. Then, after laying the beams, fill the boards from below. When building a two-story house, it is better to use concrete slabs for overlapping.
For the roof, first assemble the facing grid - this is necessary in any case, regardless of the roofing material you choose. The lattices can only differ in the different pitch of the beams. It is recommended to use one of the following materials (for financial reasons):
- ondulin;
- metal tiles;
- corrugated board;
- slate.
From environmentally friendly materials, wood, straw, reeds are applicable.
Whatever material you choose, the roof must be insulated. Use glass wool for this - this is the most affordable and easy-to-install material.
Completion of construction. Internal arrangement
Roof construction is the last step in building a house. Then you can proceed with the interior decoration. There are a lot of technologies and methods of internal arrangement, almost all existing design projects can be implemented with your own hands at low cost.
In a word, everything depends only on the richness of your imagination. Stretch ceilings can be an excellent option - having a relatively low cost, they visually expand the free space with their glossy coating. They perfectly reflect light, while creating an extraordinary effect.
Arches and openings also look good in the interior (they are easy to mount from drywall and metal profiles, or use wood and clay). Cover the walls with textured wallpaper (paint-like wallpaper, as they are also called), which you can make yourself. Various plasters are quite cheap. Decorating the house with wood looks great.
If you approach the matter competently and with heart, then the construction and arrangement of your own family nest will be inexpensive. The main thing is to clearly know what you can save on and what it is better not to do.
What you can't save on
- Don't skimp on technical supervision. Read at least a thousand articles on construction, but without experience you still will not be able to control the quality and understand the essence of construction work. Hire an engineer or an experienced builder - in general, someone you would trust.
- Don't skimp on communications. Heating, water supply, driveways to the courtyard and so on are essential elements of a comfortable life. Don't neglect any of the systems!
- Do not skimp on the project - it must be drawn up by a specialist, taking into account the climatic conditions of your area. Be sure to tie the project to specific building conditions. So, it often happens that the developer did not want to pay the designers for anchoring the foundation, having listened to the advice of the contractor (for whom the more expensive, the better), as a result of which the foundation turned out to have an excessively large margin of safety. The binding will allow you to minimize the cost of building the base of the house.
We also note that construction and design should be carried out by different people with different opinions and interests. This will allow you to make the right decision and avoid unnecessary costs.
Video - How to build a house inexpensively
If you decide to build a house with your own hands, then at each stage you may have many questions, the answers to which you can find in our article. For a private developer who decides to carry out all the work with his own hands, it is important not only to understand the sequence of work and to know the intricacies of their implementation, but also to correctly determine the choice of materials, wall construction and type of foundation. If you are going to build your house yourself, then choose a simple project, a simple configuration in terms of plan and with a conventional gable roof. Such a building is much easier to build with your own hands, in addition to this, you can save on materials. From our article you will learn about building a house from A to Z.
Subtleties of choice of materials
If you decide to build a house on your own from foundation to roof, then before you decide on the layout, you should decide what you will make the walls from, as this may affect the planning decision and the project as a whole.
A residential building can be built from the following materials:
- The easiest way is to build a house alone using wood as a wall material. This environmentally friendly material is simple and easy to handle, easy to install and relatively inexpensive. A house made of wood has an optimal microclimate for human life. The material regulates the humidity in the room, saturates the air with useful phytoncides. You can make a wooden house from sheet materials using frame technology, from a bar or logs. The only drawback of such houses is the susceptibility of wood to burning, rot and damage by insects. To protect the material, it is treated with special impregnations.
- A house built of brick will turn out to be more durable and durable. Knowing the rules for performing brickwork, you can build such a building yourself. However, it should be borne in mind that brick has a higher thermal conductivity than wood, so the walls will be thicker and need additional insulation.
- Every private developer who has built at least some kind of brick structure can easily cope with the execution of masonry from aerated blocks. However, the speed of erection of such a building is much higher than the implementation of brickwork. In addition, aerated concrete has low thermal conductivity, so the thickness of the walls can be reduced by a third in comparison with brick. The soundproofing qualities of aerated concrete are also higher. The only drawback is the hygroscopicity of the material, so the facade needs finishing that protects it from moisture.
Important: if we build a house ourselves, then the weight of the wall material is very important. So, lighter gas blocks are much more profitable to use than heavy bricks. You will be able to save on material transportation and arrangement of a lighter foundation.
Even if we are building a house with our own hands, it is necessary to follow the construction stages, the first of which will be associated with the construction of the foundation. Before you independently choose the type, structure and material of the foundation, you need to study the geological features of the area, find out the level of groundwater and the mark of soil freezing. Depending on the material of the walls and the characteristics of the soil, you can use one of the following materials for arranging the foundation:
- ready-made reinforced concrete blocks;
- monolithic reinforced concrete;
- brick;
- screw piles;
- columnar bases made of pipes, logs, blocks or concrete.
Landing on the site
- The construction of a house should be carried out at a distance of at least 3 meters from the border with a neighboring site.
- Even if you are going to build a house for display, you should not place it closer than 5 m from the border of the site, which runs along the road or passage.
- If there is a building on neighboring sites, then it is necessary to observe the minimum fire gaps between houses, which are standardized depending on the degree of fire safety of the structure. So, between two brick, stone or concrete houses there must be a gap of at least 6 m, between a wooden building and a stone house (brick, gas-block or concrete) there must be at least 10 m, the largest gap must be maintained between two timber buildings, equal to 15 m.
Having decided on the landing on the site, choosing the optimal layout and choosing the materials, you can start construction, observing the order of work. Since there should be no problems with the implementation of brick or aerated concrete masonry, we will describe in stages how to build a frame house, because this type of structure is often used in private construction in every region of our country.
Erection of the foundation
It is quite profitable to build a frame house on your own, because thanks to lightweight wall material, you can save on arranging the foundation. In this case, you can use one of two constructs:
- A shallow strip foundation is also suitable for this structure. However, you will need significantly more materials and time to complete the work. The thing is that you will need to dig a trench under all the external and internal load-bearing walls, waterproof it, install the formwork, reinforcement cage and fill everything with concrete. After that, you need to wait 28 days before proceeding with further work.
Installation of the columnar base is carried out in the following sequence:
- After preparing the site and laying out on the ground, holes are dug under the pillars. The depth of the pit depends on the type of soil. On heaving soils, loam and sandy loam, it is better to do the bottom of the pillar no higher than the freezing point of the soil. In all other cases, a pit 40-70 cm deep is sufficient. The dimensions of the pit in the plan depend on the material of the pillars. The easiest way is to make columns from concrete blocks.
- At the bottom of the pit, a sand cushion 10 cm high is made. The sand, after being wetted with water, is rammed.
- Then the pillar is laid from blocks. The elements are laid on a cement mortar.
- To perform vertical waterproofing, the post is coated with two layers of bitumen.
- Horizontal waterproofing is made of two layers of roofing material.
Arrangement of the frame structure of the walls
Before you build a house out of wood, you yourself must treat all wooden structural elements with antiseptics and fire retardants in order to protect them from rot and mold, as well as fire.
To complete the frame of a wooden house, the following beams are used:
- For the lower strapping, it is worth taking an element with a section of 100x150 mm.
- For the upper strapping - timber 100x100 mm.
- For pediment racks - 50x100 mm.
- A bar with a section of 100x100 mm is used as side racks.
- Floor beams are made of 80x100 mm timber.
Installation of the wall frame is performed in the following sequence:
- A bar of the lower strapping is laid on the columnar base and attached to it with anchors.
- The bars of the crown are mounted on the support beams. They are laid along the perimeter of the foundation with a step of 60-70 cm. On the bar of the lower strapping, the elements are fixed by the insertion method or with the help of steel corners.
- After that, they begin to assemble the wall frame. The bars are fixed to the lower harness using powerful steel corners, which are able to securely hold the bar in an upright position.
- Vertical uprights are mounted along the edges of window and door openings.
- The upper harness bar is now fixed.
- After assembling the frame of the four walls, the side corner posts are fastened to each other by means of corners. These struts are additionally supported by diagonal struts on each side. This will give rigidity to the entire structure.
- Door and window openings are reinforced with additional pillars, since door or window structures will be fixed here.
- Now you can start covering the walls with sheet wood materials (OSB, chipboard or moisture-resistant plywood). The selected heat-insulating material is placed between the frame posts.
- Then the floor beams are laid. They are mounted on the upper strapping belt exactly above the installation site of the vertical frame struts. For tight laying, grooves are cut out in the beams. For additional fixation, nails, screws and steel corners are used.
- To make further work on the arrangement of the roof easier to carry out, a temporary boardwalk is made on the floor beams.
Roof installation
When installing the rafter system, you can use one of three sequences of actions:
- The outermost pairs of rafters are fastened to the ground, after which they rise and are installed on the harness at the place where the gable of the house is made. Between themselves, two pairs of rafter legs are connected by a ridge bar. After that, the remaining rafters are mounted on the ridge beam with an equal pitch.
- The second installation option begins with the central posts of the pediments. After installation, they are fastened to a ridge beam, to which the rafter legs will subsequently be fixed.
- Another installation method is carried out in such a way that the pairs of rafters in the upper part are connected by a ridge plate, and their lower part is attached to the harness that serves as a Mauerlat.
After completing the roof frame, the installation work is carried out in the following order:
- A vapor barrier film is laid on the slopes formed by the rafters, which is attached by means of brackets and pressed against the rafters by the slats of the counter-lattice. The film should be laid across the rafters, starting from the bottom. The overlap of adjacent strips is 20 cm.
- A crate is installed perpendicular to the counter battens. The step of installing the guides is usually 30-40 cm.If flexible roll material is used as a roof covering, then a continuous sheathing is made of OSB.
- The selected roofing material can then be laid.
- The roof is insulated from the inside. For this, an insulating material (mineral wool) is laid between the rafter legs.
- Then the insulation is covered with a layer of waterproofing, which is fastened with brackets to the rafters.
- After that, the roof can be hemmed with clapboard, chipboard, plywood or OSB.
- The eaves can be hemmed with a wooden or plastic clapboard. Instead, you can use special plastic soffits.
- A roof drainage system is installed on the wind board.
- The frame of the pediment is sewn up and insulated in the same way as the walls.
Floor installation
- First of all, cranial bars are attached to the frame beams. They are needed for laying sub-floor boards on them.
- After that, subfloor boards or plywood with a thickness of 8-10 mm are placed on the cranial blocks.
- Next, a waterproofing membrane is spread over the subfloor, bending around the beams. The material is overlapped (15-20 cm), the joints are glued with tape.
- After that, between the beams, put the selected heat-insulating material on the foil. Its thickness should be equal to the thickness of the beams.
- On top of the entire structure is covered with another layer of vapor barrier. It is attached to the supporting beams with brackets.
- After that, the floor is leveled with plywood or wooden floorboards.
- The chosen floor covering can be laid on top.
- Now you can announce the completion of construction to your family.
Without the financial resources to attract professional builders, you can build a house on your own, armed with special literature and patience. In practice, this is challenging but saves up to half the construction cost.
Many independent builders offer others to familiarize themselves with their projects and provide detailed reports, accompanying the process of building a house with detailed photographs.
Features of the layout of the house
Through the efforts of two men, a cheap house for permanent residence with an attached garage was built. Initially, a garage was not provided for in the project and was added after the completion of the house.
In general, the project changed as the discussion proceeded on the advice of other builders and the requests of the spouse. The original layout of the house included 6 rooms on two floors.
During construction, it was decided to equip two bathrooms, while on the first floor the toilet and bath should be separate. The area of the living room and the location of the stairs have also changed. The living room was too narrow and elongated in relation to the initial design. The staircase was also planned to be uncomfortable and steep. After the changes, these shortcomings were eliminated.
The cost of building a house with your own hands
In May 2010, the father of a small family planned to build a cheap house with his own hands in the amount of 300 thousand rubles. This amount included the costs not only for materials, but also for connecting gas and electricity. According to the estimate, the following expenses were incurred:
- Concrete - 20,700.
- Edged and unedged timber - 70,000.
- Styrofoam - 31,200.
- Plywood - 8023.
- Metal profile - 16 200.
- Siding - 22 052.
- Used windows - 4000.
- Nails, screws, etc. - 15,000.
- Delivery of material and excavator services - 5200.
- Septic tank - 10,000.
- Plumbing, radiators - 35 660.
- GKL and finishing costs - 21280.
- Gas pipeline design and installation, connection fee - 37,000.
- Gas equipment (stove, boiler) - 29,000.
- Electricity connection with materials - 3000.
- Water supply connection - 2000.
In the opinion of the builder himself, a certain number of points on the little things are missing in the estimate. However, this also requires additional costs. It should also be noted that some of the windows were obtained from friends and did not require financial costs. In total, 327,315 rubles were spent on building a house without trifles. This amount does not include the attached garage. It was added later according to a separate estimate. In addition, the construction of the garage required an amount of about 34,000 rubles. Taking into account unspecified expenses, the house did not cost more than 400 thousand rubles.
Installation of a shallow strip foundation
Pre-planned foundation 35 cm wide and 25 cm above the ground and 20 cm below the ground. As a reinforcing element, a cut-out section of 2.5x100 mm was chosen. Reinforcement of the tape was planned in 2 layers, top and bottom, with three connected sheets of cutting in each.
On the advice of experienced builders, vertical elements were added, and the number of sheets to be connected was increased to 5 pieces. Additionally, the height of the foundation above the ground increased and amounted to 45 cm.
die-cutting reinforcement - you can't do that!
After the foundation was poured into concrete, 20 anchor bolts were installed for the installation of the lower piping.
Construction of the first floor
Before the installation of the walls of the first floor, a platform was installed and insulated, and sewer pipes were laid. The bottom of the platform is left open, the insulation is fixed due to the fixed cuttings of the boards. The platform was insulated with 3 layers of foam, 15 cm thick. The subfloor was made of a 150x50 mm board.
The walls were installed horizontally. Foam plastic and 8 mm plywood protection are installed between the posts, windows are also installed. Windows in the project were used second-hand. The installation of the assembled wall in a vertical position was performed by two men. In the construction of the walls, it was decided to abandon the installation of jibs. The builder assumed that the rigidity of the frame would be sufficient due to the plywood sheathing.
After assembling the walls of the first floor, the installation of internal partitions was carried out. Styrofoam was also used as insulation.
Second floor assembly principle
After the installation of the piping, a temporary floor made of unedged boards was partially laid, and the walls were horizontally assembled and installed vertically. Second-floor windows were also used.
To increase sound insulation in the interfloor overlap, non-woven cloth was laid on the floor logs under the boards. This allows you to partially dampen vibration from steps.
Installation of rafters and roofs
At the end of the assembly of the walls of the attic floor, a rafter system was installed. The rafter overhangs did not lengthen. An inch board was used as a crate. The roof was covered with a profiled sheet 4 m long.
Exterior finishing of the building
Siding was used for the exterior decoration of the building. It was mounted with a 25 mm ventilation gap. Also, at the stage of external finishing, an extension of the vestibule was made. The foundation for the vestibule was not installed; the structure was installed on pieces of concrete and sidewalk curbs laid on the ground.
Features of the ladder and its installation
The location of the stairs in the project caused a lot of controversy. Initially, its location assumed an excessive emphasis on the attic ceiling. After changing the location and design of the staircase, it is made without a platform with small turns.
The staircase is made of boards 50x150 mm., The step width is 30 cm. The staircase was installed after the rough finishing of the first floor. There is a place for the toilet equipment there under the upper span. According to personal feelings, the staircase turned out to be comfortable and compact.
Interior decoration of the house
Before finishing the premises, the interfloor overlap was insulated and the floor was laid on the second floor. To increase the level of sound insulation, felt is nailed between the joists and the floorboards. After that, a rough finish was made for the interior of both floors of the cheap house.
The rough finish included three points:
- Installation of fiberboard as wind protection.
- Installation of GVL.
- Putty of joints and chips of GVL.
In the final finish, water-based paint was predominantly used. The living room, kitchen and bedrooms are painted in different colors. The floor in the rooms is covered with linoleum, the ceilings are finished with polystyrene tiles.