A foundation of the savage. How to make a rubble, rubble concrete foundation with your own hands
The rubble foundation has been known to mankind for a very long time. Today, such a foundation for construction is budgetary and beautiful. Its service life reaches 150 years; even fortresses were once built from this stone.
In addition, such a foundation is the most resistant to groundwater and soil freezing among other foundations. Developers choose it also for environmental friendliness. It is quite simple to build such a structure on your own, while you will not have to use any special construction equipment.
Description
If we consider a standard rubble foundation, then it can be noted that its tape variety usually has a height within 1.6 m. A reinforced belt is laid on top. If the base is to be prepared from sand and drainage, then the height can be reduced, as in the case of a reinforced belt.
The laying is carried out below the soil freezing line, while using concrete of the M100 grade or higher. The base should be about 30 cm above ground level, then the basement goes. During the dismantling of buildings of the last century, it became clear that the described type of foundation was then laid to a depth of 2 m, the reinforcement was not used, and the fixing was carried out with a simple solution.
At the same time, waterproofing or brick was not laid between the wall and the foundation. Despite this, the buildings continued to stand. This allows us to assert that rubble stone in such a foundation replaces the metal frame. The main role in this case is played by buty, the content of which can reach 90% of the total volume. There are no requirements for the size and shape of the stones.
Features:
The material can be chipped or tiled, with the strength of the material being the main condition. It is better to use bed or slab rock during the work. It has straight edges, which allows you to get an advantage when laying, because even stones are easier to lay down than those with irregular edges.
The masonry technology of this material is often compared to the technique that describes the construction of brick walls. The principle remains the same here. The elements are stacked on top of each other and bonded with a solution. The only difference is the building blocks and the composition of the solution. The brick is laid on a cement-sand mortar with a large volume of sand, while rubble stone is mounted on a more durable concrete.
Positive reviews
Before building a rubble foundation, you should familiarize yourself with its advantages and disadvantages. You can find out about them by reading the reviews. Among the advantages, consumers distinguish:
- ecological cleanliness;
- durability;
- aesthetic indicators;
- high moisture resistance.
Consumers especially emphasize another useful property: the construction process can be made cheaper by adding other building materials. For example, the recessed part, which will be in the ground, can be formed from pure rubble, while the surface in this case is laid out from brick.
Negative reviews
If you plan to lay the rubble foundation yourself, then you should read the negative reviews. Thus, home craftsmen note that it is not worthwhile to harbor illusions about the speed and simplicity of building such a foundation, because these assumptions do not correspond to reality. So, for the device of the described base, a deep trench is required. And the bottom is deepened 20 cm below the freezing of the soil. In some regions, this figure reaches 2 m, but most often it is in the range from 150 to 180 cm.
In addition, trenching and measurements are time consuming. Consumers emphasize that even heavy earthmoving equipment may be required in this case. Developers are advised to choose stones very carefully, because after them they will have to be laid out over the entire volume of the foundation as evenly as possible. If you plan to build a foundation from rubble stone with your own hands, then you should familiarize yourself with the disadvantages of building materials. Among them, home craftsmen distinguish:
- high cost of materials;
- the need for complex calculations;
- difficulties associated with the delivery of material to the construction site;
- there is a high probability that specialists will have to be involved in the work.
Construction technology: preparation of tools
Before starting work, you need to stock up on tools and materials, among them should be highlighted:
- fine crushed stone;
- sand;
- cement;
- rubble stone;
- bayonet shovels;
- capacious container for solution;
- trowels;
- roulette;
- building level;
- plumb line;
- ramming.
Crushed stone will be needed to fill the voids that are formed during the masonry process. But the sand will be used to prepare the solution and the pillow. When purchasing cement, you must choose one that has the M400 brand. The volume of rubble stone will be less compared to the volume of the trench. The smaller the stone, the more you will need it. It also depends on the evenness of the edges.
The construction of rubble foundations provides for the use of rubble with high frost and water resistance. The stone must be strong. It is also important to take care of the presence of roofing material or other waterproofing material.
Construction of the first layer
The foundation is laid at a depth below the freezing of the soil. Much also depends on the looseness, as well as the composition of the soil. On the ground, trenching is carried out using ropes and pegs. The width must be planned so that it is 15 cm larger than the walls.
If the soil crumbles during the digging process, then it is necessary to build a formwork from boards and other materials. They are usually removed after pouring and hardening of concrete. A sand cushion is placed in the trench. It is done in several stages. Each next layer of sand is rammed and moistened.
At the final stage earthworks it is necessary to lay the waterproofing on top of the pillow. For this, roofing material or its analogue is used. It is necessary to lay the canvases with an overlap so that moisture from the concrete is not lost.
Having chosen the most even and flat cobblestones with a horizontal surface, they are laid on the bottom - this will create a base for the buta. Smooth stones are pressed into the sand. In order to get rid of recesses and openings, you should use a tamper. The voids are filled with pebbles and small rubble. The layer is compacted, and then pressed with a sledgehammer. Pouring of this layer can be done with concrete, which is prepared in classical proportions: one to three.
Laying the remaining rows and reinforcement
So, you have chosen a rubble stone foundation as the base. The first steps have been taken, then you can start laying the next rows. The first layer can be poured at a height of 40 cm from the bottom. Laying and pouring of the remaining rows is carried out according to the same principle. The only difference is in the bandaging of the seams, as in the usual brickwork.
The stones of the subsequent rows are placed in an uncured solution. Strengthening the rubble foundation is required if the foundation is planned to be made high enough. Additional stabilization is expressed in the placement of reinforcement or wire. The last four layers of the structure should also be formed. It is important to systematically tamp the moving mass in a new layer, which will guarantee the strength of the future foundation.
Method of work
In order to accelerate the supply of stones and mortar into a deep trench, gentle slopes should be made in the walls. This will make it possible to equip a comfortable platform between the bottom and the walls. To solve the problem of steep slopes, you can use a wooden scaffold.
If the trench is rather shallow and narrow, then the container for the solution can be installed on the sides, and stones can be laid between them. Openings for ventilation and communication should be planned and laid immediately. This will shorten the construction time and reduce labor costs.
The material is wetted before laying to ensure better adhesion to concrete. The stones are stacked with a gap ranging from 3 to 5 cm. The long side of the butt is called a spoon, the short side is called a poke. In each row, the jab should alternate with a spoon.
For masonry, it is convenient to use a hammer-cam and similar tools. The thickness of the masonry is about 70 cm. For plasticity, clay is often added to the solution, but you should not be zealous.
Rubble stone under the foundation can be laid according to one of two technologies:
- under the shoulder blade;
- under the bay.
In the first case it comes about the technology, which provides for the preparation of the base, as well as laying the bonded row on it dry. The stone is well compacted, and the voids are filled with small stones. At the next stage, you can start filling the space with a liquid solution.
The next step will be laying the spoon row. The thickness of the first and second rows should not exceed 30 cm. The stones are selected in such a way that the height of the row is almost the same. For checking, you can use beacons with a cord. It is important to ensure that the stones do not touch each other without mortar.
As a result, a rubble strip foundation can turn out to be perfectly smooth; for this, formwork is usually installed. In this case, the walls are subsequently finished with one of the many materials on the market.
Despite the large selection of types of foundations, some developers prefer to build them according to the "old-fashioned" methods. For example, fold the base under vacation home from buta. Thus - to get a reliable stone foundation, which attracts increased attention with its original appearance. This is the construct chosen by the user of the portal with the nickname jonic61,building unusual house from wood concrete.
- How to prepare a subgrade for foundation construction.
- How to drain a foundation.
- How to fold a foundation from rubble stone.
Stages of building a stone foundation for a wood concrete house
The history of the construction of a country house jonic61, which he named in the topic on the portal "Arbolit in stone", began with the purchase of the "correct" site. According to the user, he had been looking for a suitable building plot for about two years. The reason is the increased requirements for comfort. We need accessible communications, like in the city, good roads for heavy trucks with building materials, the proximity of highways to travel to the city, etc. Finally, desired site an area of \u200b\u200b6 acres found in snt.
jonic61 FORUMHOUSE user
I was won over by the proximity of the sea. The garden partnership has electricity, and the supply of energy goes without interruption, there is a main gas, a year-round central water supply with drinking water and well developed infrastructure... A bonus of 5 acres is attached to the northern part of the site - the exclusion zone from railroad, on which you can build non-capital structures, i.e. - buildings without a foundation. Total: total area territory was 11 acres.
In addition to the plot, there was a 5x5 m house, “molded” from a steel container and what the previous owner had at hand.
Looking ahead, let's say that the house was eventually dismantled, and the container was turned into an anti-vandal pantry for storing tools.
In 2017 jonic6,armed with the knowledge gleaned on the portal, he started building a house, and without a project, with the introduction of changes to the construct during the construction of the cottage. Having studied the market for wall building materials, the user settled on an arbolite.
In the production of wood concrete, the technology of non-instantaneous stripping is used, which has a positive effect on the properties and geometry of the material.
Blocks, in total, 1000 pieces were ordered, angular 50x30x20 cm and wall 40x30x20 cm, already plastered from the front side.
While waiting for a batch of wood concrete, the user switched to the so-called. the zero stage of building a house - the construction of the foundation.
Preparation of soil base and arrangement of drainage for rubble foundation
We have already said above that the house is being built practically without a project, and at first the user planned to fill the slab, but in the end he “played” it on a rubble foundation, which we will discuss further. But when building a foundation of any type, the first place comes out of thorough preparation of the soil base, because the foundation only transfers and redistributes the load from the structure. Therefore, we first determine the composition of the soil.
To do this, on the building spot of the house jonic61dug pits and studied the layers of the soil. It:
- black soil - 30 cm;
- sandy loam - 10 cm;
- loam - 10 cm;
- then there is a thick layer of clay.
GWL is high. The difference in height on the perimeter of the foundation is 4 cm.
Having retreated 5 m from the red line and 3 m from the neighbor, the user, having rented a tractor and a truck, proceeded to excavate a foundation pit, adding another 1 meter to the dimensions of the house (9x9 m).
Total: the dimensions of the pit are 11x11 m.
Where the house used to stand, they immediately dug a hole for the installation of a septic tank from concrete rings.
At a depth of 2.4 meters, groundwater began to flow.
The excavator removed the soil on the spot under the foundation with a grading bucket that does not have teeth (steel "teeth").
This increased the quality of work, because, removing layer by layer, the excavator operator, which is important, did not loosen the continental soil.
jonic61
I stood with the level and the truck driver helped with the measuring stick. As a result, the height difference after digging the pit did not exceed 1-2 cm.
Having finished digging the foundation pit, the excavator immediately made a "ramp" for heavy trucks.
Having cleaned up small irregularities with a shovel, the user covered the bottom of the pit with geotextile with a density of 200 g / sq. m.
Along the perimeter, I laid a drainage pipe with a diameter of 110 mm, withstanding a slope of 2-3 cm per 1 running meter.
The geotextile was laid with an overlap of canvases of 15 cm and leading outward, beyond the perimeter of the foundation, 0.5 m.
This article describes in detail about the arrangement of storm sewers.
They brought in sand and scattered it over the foundation pit.
The sand was carefully leveled at the base.
The bottom of the base is brought out to 0 according to the level.
The sudden rain played into the hands, the moisture-saturated sand compacted itself.
At the same time, a septic tank was equipped, delivering and installing concrete rings.
jonic61
The quality of access roads is very important in construction. Trucks must be able to enter, unload and leave without hindrance. This will save a lot of nerves and money.
Drainage pipes are led into a drainage well made from car tires by the former owner of the site.
From the drainage well, water is discharged into the SNT drainage network.
Drainage pipes are covered with slag.
Additionally jonic61filled the sand with slag and hired a team of workers with a gasoline vibrating plate.
Before the foundation was tamped, communications were dug and laid - mortgages for water inlet and sewer pipes.
The final prepared base, on which 2 sand machines and 8 slag machines are poured and thoroughly poured with water.
Construction of rubble foundation
So, at this stage, everything is ready to install the formwork and pour the slab foundation. But jonic61took a time-out and decided to think about whether he could do it with the forces of the new brigade, and whether the workers had enough experience for this. I was also worried about the safety of building materials on the site, which must be immediately put into operation.
jonic61
Once I went to my friend, who is engaged in excavations and restoration of an ancient settlement, and along the way, on the advice of a friend, stopped by the military history museum, erected in the form of a stone fortress. The most interesting thing is that the same workers from the team hired by me build it. I love natural stone very much, and the structure, made of beautiful gray-blue stone, hooked me.
Having estimated the costs of pouring a slab and laying rubble, the user decided to make a stone foundation. He ordered a car with a boot and hired a proven team of 6 people to work.
Because the concept of the foundation has completely changed on the fly, jonic61additionally ordered 20 tons of sand, a truck of slag and 2.5 tons of cement.
Laying rubble stone requires a large amount of mortar.
Along the way, instead of a foundation, the user bought a profiled geomembrane, which will additionally cut off moisture from the bottom from the foundation.
In total, 3 rolls were bought, 2 m wide and 20 m long.
The workers broke the foundation axes, spread the geomembrane and brought in the corners of the rubble foundation.
- the width of the "tape" of the foundation - 50 cm;
- height - 1 m.
There is a load-bearing wall inside the perimeter. The sinuses of the foundation are then clogged with clay, slag with layer-by-layer ramming, and then the floor slab of the first floor is cast. The user believes that a foundation made of natural stone is a beautiful and strong foundation for a home that does not require finishing and special care.
The foundation grew before our eyes and swallowed up trucks with rubble one after another.
From the inside of the basement, along the entire perimeter, a “step” was made with dimensions of 150x150 mm for the support - a concrete slab, which would tie together the entire structure.
They also spread a geomembrane from the inside and started laying the load-bearing inner wall.
A beautiful and budgetary rubble foundation has been known to the world since 2000 BC - and some buildings on such a foundation have stood for more than one century! That is why they say about him "forever". Its service life really exceeds 150 years - for a reason, even fortresses were once built from stone. And the rubble foundation of all existing ones is the most resistant to freezing and ground water. It is also environmentally friendly. And you can actually build it with your own hands without any additional construction equipment! So, together with the portal, we understand the site - where to look for a stone and how to build an effective foundation for a bath from it.
Features of laying the rubble base
As a standard, a strip rubble foundation is erected 1.6 meters high with a reinforced belt on top. If you make a good sand cushion with drainage or a more solid reinforced belt, the height can be reduced.
A rubble foundation is usually laid below the freezing depth, with a concrete grade of at least 100. It must be at least 30 centimeters above the ground level, after which the basement is already in progress.
Interestingly, during the dismantling of buildings of the last century, it turned out that the foundation of rubble stone in those days was laid up to two meters deep, the reinforcement was not used, but everything was fixed with a simple mortar. Even without waterproofing between the foundation and the wall and any brickwork. And still the buildings stood! We can say that the rubble stone in the rubble concrete foundation simply replaces the metal frame.
How to choose a quality stone?
Sandstone, cobblestone, tuff, shell rock and limestone are suitable as natural stones for building a foundation. Those of them that have an irregular shape with almost parallel surfaces are but.
Traditionally, a rubble foundation is laid out of a large stone of a similar size and shape. For this purpose, choose flat-cut stones, which are tightly stacked on top of each other and fastened with cement mortar. How to recognize the quality of rubble stone? If during a split it does not crumble and does not become dusty, it means that good material was found for building the foundation. The second parameter: if you hit the stone hard with a hammer, the sound will be clear and clear. And the stone will not break!
You can collect rubble stone even in the fields. But, if there is an opportunity to order it, it is better not to spare money. Indeed, many do not even imagine how much this stone is needed to build the foundation of a small bath - a few tones!
But there is another problem of building such a foundation - it is cleaning them. Washing them is not so easy, it takes time and patience. And if you do not wash, then there will be no bond with concrete - needless to say, what will this turn into for the foundation?
Skirting: preparing a stone for construction
Skirting also helps to make stones smaller - up to 30 kg. And here's how a rubble stone is split:
- Using a soft pencil and or a line, mark the desired size.
- Stretch the cord evenly and press it into the notched piece of chalk. Next, pull the same cord along two points on the stone and release it. When hitting a stone, the chalk will leave the desired mark.
- We put a chisel in the marked mark and drive it three or four centimeters into the stone - using a hammer-cam. At the same time, we carefully do elbow strikes.
- At risk, we split the stone: we set the chisel at an angle and make a strong shoulder blow on it.
It is even easier to split the rubble stone along the seam, which was formed naturally: for this, you need to insert a chisel into the seam itself and use a hammer to push it along the crack. How do you know where the crack is? It will have a depression or a darker color at the break.
This is how they achieve two parallel sides, beds of rubble stone, which are needed for laying.
Buta masonry technology: three common options
Here's how to build a foundation from rubble stone correctly:
- Step 1. Dig a trench and set up the formwork.
- Step 2. We arrange a pillow of 30 cm of pure concrete and reinforcement.
- Step 3. On the pillow - the foundation itself is made of rubble.
Before laying the stones, be sure to wet them so that they better adhere to the concrete and retain their moisture. Laying the rubble stone must be correct - with a gap of 3 to 5 cm, and in no case close to each other.
The long side of such a stone is called a spoon, the short side is called a poke. And in each row of such masonry, the poke should alternate with a spoon - that's the whole technology.
For laying rubble stone, a sledgehammer, a hammer-cam and similar tools are used. The standard thickness of the masonry is 50-70 cm. Clay also does not hurt - it is often added for the plasticity of the solution. But just a little bit!
So, the laying of rubble stone also has its own special technology. So, you can put it "under the bracket", "under the shoulder blade" and "under the bay".
Put it under the shoulder blade like this:
- Step 1. Lay the bonded row dry on the base prepared in advance.
- Step 2. We tamp the stone well and fill the voids with smaller stones. Fill with liquid solution.
- Step 3. Now we put the spoon row - long side. The thickness of both the first and the second row is up to 30 cm, and when laying stones, you need to select such that the height of the row is almost the same (for checking, we put beacons with a cord).
It is extremely important to ensure that the stones do not touch each other anywhere without mortar.
To put the formwork for such a foundation or not depends on whether you need perfectly smooth foundation walls for subsequent finishing or not.
But the laying under the bay is always carried out in the formwork. The strength of such a foundation is very low - only a light frame bath can be built on it. Therefore, for such masonry, use a vibration compactor: this will increase its strength by up to 40%. Stones for him are also not particularly selected. The order of work is as follows:
- Step 1. Prepare the trench and the base, which we cover with coarse sand and tamp.
- Step 2. We put the butt row, grind and fill with a liquid solution.
- Step 3. Put the second row of spoons, split again, compact and ram the stone.
Here, work is already underway, as usual, but after that a plastic solution is spread with a cone draft of up to 6 cm in a layer of 40-60 cm and everything is compacted with a vibrator - until the solution stops penetrating into the masonry row.
But for masonry "under the bracket" stones are selected of the same height - according to a template, and the verticality and horizontalness of the surfaces and corners of the masonry itself is constantly checked.
An important point: it is necessary to ensure that the stones do not stagger when laying and that the dressing of the seams is observed. The ideal stone for such a foundation is 20x30 cm. As for its area, it is calculated according to the following formula: the width of the rubble stone \u003d 1/3 of the width of the foundation.
Is such a base suitable for every bath?
Some experts note that the heaviest buildings have long been built on the buta. After all, rubble tape is much more mobile and less rigid than a regular foundation. And therefore, if it is not good to "press down" it with brick walls and the presence of a second floor, the bathhouse may, unfortunately, not last long. But wooden steam rooms, although they are light, can be safely placed on such a basis: after all, a tree, due to its fibrous structure, works well "in tension" and it is not scary for it if the foundation under it slightly "leads", while brick and concrete the wall, if it could not sufficiently press down and "pacify" the rubble foundation, will surely crack. What a paradox!
Reclaimed concrete foundation: easier and stronger
The main rule for the construction of a concrete foundation is this: it should consist of concrete mortar and rubble stone in a one-to-one ratio. In general, the proportion of the stone in relation to the total volume of the foundation can be reduced only to 40%, no less. A filler is also taken into the solution for such a foundation: small rubble stones, gravel, crushed stone, broken and burnt bricks. And as a binder is a cement and cement-lime mortar - it already depends on how wet the soil is.
It is necessary to spread the rubble concrete mass into the wooden formwork, gradually filling the entire volume. But the walls of the trench must be covered in advance with roofing or roofing material canvases. The first filler is placed in the prepared trench - with a layer of up to 15 cm. It is carefully compacted with a heavy tamping and filled with mortar. Then again sand and again mortar. And the concrete solution for such a foundation is prepared from heavy cement of the M-400 or M-500 brand. Crushed stone - up to 30 mm, sand - large or medium. Mix them in a ratio of one to three. As a result, the mixture should turn out to be dense and liquid enough so that all the voids in the masonry are filled.
The foundation turns out to be very strong, although not as beautiful as rubble. Still, the most important thing is that a novice amateur can also build a rubble and rubble concrete foundation - here the technology is much simpler than the construction of complex reinforced tapes.
When building massive houses, an extra strong solid foundation is required. A similar strength can be provided by rubble - massive pieces of rock. When building a foundation from it, you can significantly reduce material costs - after all, the cost of this material is minimal.
Types of rubble masonry
Buta masonry has been known for a long time: 2000 years ago, most of the massive medieval fortresses and houses for wealthy landowners were built from it. Butt was also used as a foundation in the construction of buildings in St. Petersburg.High-strength foundations made of this stone are widely used in modern construction. There are several types of such masonry:
"Under the shoulder blade": in horizontal rows, while all stones are selected by size;
"For filling": without laying out rows and selecting stones, the quarry is simply covered in layers, with each layer being filled with a solution; however, the margin of safety of such a foundation is small, therefore this method is used only on dense, non-subsiding soils;
"Under the bracket": it is not used in the foundation, so only partitions and pillars are erected; a kind of the "under the shoulder blade" method, in this case the stones are selected exactly according to the template;
with vibration compaction: the stones are pressed until the solution ceases to penetrate into the masonry, this method increases the strength of the future foundation to 25-40%.
a) "under the shoulder blade"; b) "bracket"; c) pouring into the formwork; d) laying by surprise
Since the rock of rocks does not absorb water, practically does not collapse in water and does not exfoliate, the foundation made of it can last a long time. In construction, it is better to use high-strength diorite, granite or basalt stone with a high bearing capacity (at least 100 kg / cm2). Loose sandstone or limestone quarry on moist soils is not recommended.
Buta layout
1. To prevent the foundation from being squeezed up during frosty heaving, it is laid to the depth, slightly greater (at least 20 cm) depth of soil freezing. For example, if in Moscow it freezes by 140 cm, then the foundation is laid at (140 + 20) \u003d 160 cm.If the house and the basement are heated throughout the winter season, without interruption, the foundation can be laid and to a shallower depth (from 50 cm) from the ground or basement floor. With a non-pressing basement (but constant heating of the house), it can be equal to half the depth of soil freezing.
Diagram of the depth of soil freezing in the Russian Federation
2. To relieve voltage and protect against voltage drop heaving soils the foundation is made slightly beveled, trapezoidal, wide part down. The gap between the bevels of such a trapezoid is subsequently filled with soil or sand and compacted.
Trapezoidal foundation for heaving soils
3. Minimum width the foundation when laying the rubble must be at least 50 cm.When using large rubble-slabs, it is allowed to reduce its width to 30 cm.
4. At the bottom of the foundation, " pillow"- a layer of sand and gravel spilled with water and carefully compacted, 12-25 cm deep.
5. To prepare the solution, use cement grades M-400-500 and dry sand without clay impurities. First, dry components (cement and sand) are thoroughly mixed, and only then water is added. Too liquid solution will not adhere well. However, it must be sufficiently mobile and freely penetrate between stones.
6. It is difficult to calculate the exact amount of solution required. Since this figure depends on the size (fraction) of the buta and the fit of the stones to each other, it may fluctuate.
7. When laying under the "shoulder" in the corners of the foundation and every 4-5 m spread on the mortar lighthouse stones... To control the horizontality of the masonry on both sides of them are tightly pulled moorings (twine). The next row also begins with beacon stones.
8. Put the first row of rubble in the previously prepared formwork dry, without mortar. All stones are stacked flat side down. The solution is added only after filling the voids with gravel and compacting.
9. For the foundation, it is better to use flagstone (flat stone) without cracks and delamination marks strength not less than 100... Before starting work, it is cleaned of dirt and moistened with water.
10. After laying the stones, they should be pressed as tightly as possible to each other (upset). This is done hammer-cam (a tool with a rounded head).
Cam hammer
11. Laying any row begins with versts (side faces of the wall). Then spread zabutku (inner layer, between two versts).
12. With proper installation fittings not required to use. If desired, the lower and upper row can be tied with an armored belt of 4 bars.
13. The stones are selected in size so that the height of the entire row along the entire length of the foundation is the same. Allowed presentation of 1-2 thin stones with a bunch of them with cement mortar and careful fitting. Large stones can occupy 2 rows.
Buta masonry
14. When laying it is recommended to use stones up to 30 kg. More massive boot smash (plinth) using a large sledgehammer and a cleaver. Too sharp corners should also be cleaved with a hammer-cam so that the shape of the stone is closer to a rectangle.
15. Installation is carried out strictly horizontal rows (the height of each of them is 25 cm) so that the free space between the stones is minimal. The stones are pressed into the concrete 1/2 or more height.
16. One of the important points is laying out corners... It is conducted by the method dressings so that each vertical seam is covered by the top stone.
Laying out corners
Laying rows
Important!The contact of stones with each other without strengthening with cement mortar is not allowed.
17. Stones with short sides are called poke... Booth with long sides - spoon... They are put alternately. First, a row of poke stones, and then spoon stones.
Bandaging seams a) in ordinary masonry; b) at the junction of the walls; 1 - bonded; 2 - spoon bottle
Important! The stones should be positioned so that the seams are not over the seams.
18. The formed voids are filled up gravel followed by tamping.
19. Each subsequent row is poured with a solution of 3-4 cm in height. Laying is done on uncured concrete mixture. To prevent it from grabbing, you should lay the bottle within 1.5 hours after pouring it. In the hot season, to protect it from drying out, it is better to periodically moisten the masonry with cold water or cover it with shields, roofing felt or film.
20. After passing each row, the concrete is compacted and leveled.
Important! Work breaks are allowed only after all stones have been sunk into the concrete mix and compacted.
21. At the end of the work, for uniform drying of the foundation, covered with a film or roofing material and dried in this state for 2-4 weeks. You can additionally cover it with varnish or bitumen.
22. After the concrete has completely hardened and the formwork has been removed, the foundation is checked for presence of defects... To do this, using a steel brush and a chisel, all problem areas are cleaned from it and they are sealed again with a solution consisting of cement and sand (1: 2), and after setting, they are rubbed.
23. During long breaks in work, the masonry is cleaned of cement film and moistened. To increase adhesion on a frozen solution, it is better to make notches with an ax or a chisel.
Ready-made foundation from rubble
From time immemorial, rubble stone has been used for the construction of the foundation and the basement, and in some cases the walls. This was due to its strength, as well as availability on a par with such building materials natural origin like clay and wood. Booth is synonymous not only with reliability, but also with aesthetics. The article will discuss how to make a foundation from rubble stone with your own hands.
- ecological cleanliness;
- high moisture resistance;
- durability (rubble structures will last for several centuries);
- resistance to sudden temperature fluctuations, as well as resistance to vertical and horizontal loads;
- non-susceptibility to destruction by the action of fungus, mold and insects;
- small financial investments, but taking into account the proximity to the stone quarry;
- beautiful appearance.
Quarry stone photo
Well, of the negative aspects, it should be noted:
- the difficulty of adjusting stones for tighter placement;
- high time costs, including the selection of the optimal shape of the rubble, mixing and pouring of concrete solution.
Rubble stone
- Booth is a stone with jagged edges. It can be obtained both by natural destruction of rocks, and by blasting in quarry areas. The rock of the stone can be absolutely any: dolomite, shell rock, sandstone, etc.
- The most convenient stone for arranging the foundation and the basement is the flagstone quarry. Such material has a flat shape and has relatively flat planes on opposite sides. Bed type buta reduces labor costs by reducing the fit of the masonry element.
- When choosing a stone, a visual inspection should be carried out: it should not show cracks, delamination or other defects. The quality can be determined by a strong blow with a hammer on the buta surface - a sonorous sound in tone, as well as the absence of any damage speaks of the strength of the material.
How to make a foundation from rubble stone
Mortar for rubble stone masonry
- The solution is mixed with cement M300, M400 or M500. With the use of such brands, the mixture will get a denser consistency. The sand should be clean with a minimum content of foreign impurities, their presence will reduce the strength of the concrete even when using high-quality Portland cement.
- For 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand are taken. If a concrete foundation is being built, then it makes sense to add 3 parts of crushed stone of a fraction no larger than 5x20 mm. A portion of the water must ensure the fluidity of the solution so that it can fill the voids between the stones.
- It is important to keep the proportions when mixing. The mixture should not be too thick, otherwise air bubbles may form during pouring, which over time will lead to the destruction of the supporting structure. But at the same time, the solution should not spread without residue between the masonry elements.
- For work, you can use ready-made concrete mixture. However, it is supplied in concrete mixers in rather large quantities, which is not very convenient. After all, it takes a lot of time to select stones of a suitable configuration and it is highly doubtful that the equipment will wait until the next row of rubble masonry is ready.
Highlights
- Maximum strength of rubble strip foundation achieved through careful selection of material and adherence to masonry technology.
- To increase the adhesion between the solution and the rubble, the stone is cleaned and moistened immediately before laying.
- Voids between stones are minimized. In addition to the solution, they are additionally filled with small stones or crushed stone of various fractions (mainly 40x70 mm).
- The thickness of the mortar layer should not exceed 15 mm; with a higher indicator, there is a possibility of subsidence of the structure with subsequent destruction.
- For the initial and final layer, a large bed quarry with the most even planes is used. In the first case, the lower row will serve as a reliable support for the entire masonry, and the grillage will subsequently be installed on the upper one.
- When laying, the dressing must be observed, as when using blocks or bricks.
- Particular attention is paid to the corners of the foundation. The material should be free from cracks and heterogeneous inclusions, since they will be subject to a high load-bearing load.
- During work, take care in advance of all technological openings (ventilation, vents, sewerage, etc.). Otherwise, after hardening, it will be very problematic to make them.
For work you will need:
- a sledgehammer, which is necessary for plinting large stones weighing up to 30 kg;
- a hammer. With its help, sharp corners are chipped, as well as sediment of buta during the masonry process;
- shovel for mixing the solution;
- master OK;
- building level for measuring operations;
- twine, plumb line and tape measure.
Training
- Before work are carried out geological survey, on the basis of which the type of soil is determined. It is not recommended to use a boot for a foundation under construction on heaving, clay, peat and sandy soils.
- First, the site is cleared: garbage is removed, stumps are uprooted. For the construction of light structures, it is enough to remove the soft soil layer (approximately at a depth of 5-10 cm). With the help of hammered pegs and a stretched twine, lines are marked for the future foundation.
- When preparing, it is important to pay attention to the horizontal relief. If the height difference is minimal, then the leveling is done by uneven removal of the soil layer. In case of significant irregularities, the body of the foundation is adjusted to the horizon during construction, by "lifting" at the necessary points.
- If you plan to build a solid house of wood or brick, then the depth of the trench can be from 50 to 100 cm, this indicator depends more on the type of soil. Availability weak soils implies a deep ditch. If necessary, formwork is equipped, which will prevent the earthen walls from crumbling. As for the width, it should exceed the actual width of the walls by 10-15 cm on each side, but the minimum figure is 35 cm.
- Compacted sand acts as a sealing layer, the height of the pillow should be at least 15 cm. It will be useful to have waterproofing, here you can take ordinary sheets of roofing material that are overlapped. This material prevents moisture leakage from the poured concrete mixture.
Laying rubble stone
- Rubble material is laid in rows of the same height, while the presence of a large stone overlapping 2 rows in height is allowed in the masonry. The work is carried out according to the principle brickwork, that is, the dressing must be observed. Of course, it is impossible to achieve the ideal, but, nevertheless, the stones must be selected with great care in terms of width and height.
- It is allowed to lay the boot alternately with the short and long sides (with a poke and a spoon). Then, later on, spoon rows are laid on the butt rows and vice versa. If necessary, the voids formed due to the irregular shapes of the stones are filled with rubble. Pebbles can be used as a kind of wedges, they are knocked down with a hammer at the desired point.
- The laying of each row begins with the installation of lighthouse and corner stones, which will set the height of the entire strip. Twine is pulled along them, serving as a guide and maintaining straightness during masonry work.
- The lowest row is made of bedded buta. Large and relatively flat stones are laid dry. The smoothest side should face down. The voids are filled with rubble or torn stones.
- Adjusting stones for a stable position in the masonry is first carried out dry, taking into account the standard row height (25-30 cm). After pinning, the bottle rises and part of the solution is fed. The material is set in place with a sledgehammer or hammer. The sand-cement mixture should be so much that, when pressed on the material, it can fill the vertical joints. Thus, the foundation will gradually acquire the desired height.
- It is possible to make the foundation more durable and reliable by means of a "stepped" structure. For this, the trench is made 2 times wider than the bearing wall. Rubble stone is laid according to the previous technology. The difference lies in the gradual tapering of the supporting base. Concessions are made at least every 2 rows. Two or three steps are enough to increase the bearing capacity several times.
- Masonry work is necessarily accompanied by regular measurements of horizontal and verticality using a level or laser. Until the solution has frozen, the location of the individual elements is adjusted.
- At the end of the work, the upper part of the foundation is waterproofed and a blind area is built, which will protect the structure from the adverse effects of rain, dew and melt water flowing from the roof. Mandatory equips drainage system, which will ensure the removal of excess moisture from the structure.
Concrete masonry
- This technology can significantly reduce both the time and effort for the construction of the foundation. It should be noted that the method "for pouring" is suitable only for non-subsiding soils, for buildings erected no higher than 2 floors. It is better to build a foundation in one go, that is, without allowing interruptions.
- In this case, the depth of the trench must be increased with the calculation of laying a sand cushion (10-15 cm) and a layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 20x40 mm (10-15 cm) on the bottom. Fixed formwork must be performed, the walls of which must be carefully strengthened and provided with spacers, especially in the corners.
- This technology makes it possible to additionally use broken bricks, gravel and crushed stone of a coarse fraction. A distance of about 5 cm is left between the stones and the walls of the formwork.This is necessary in order for the material to be covered concrete mix, forming a monolithic structure.
- Despite the simplicity of the process, you cannot throw stones into the trench and then fill it with a sand-cement mixture. A chaotic arrangement will reduce the strength of the structure, and hence its bearing capacity.
- As in conventional masonry, the bottle is used only in a clean and moist form. A layer of mortar is poured onto the bottom of the trench, after it dries, bedding material is laid out, forming an almost even and stable base. The bottom layer is covered with a sand-cement mixture, into which the next row of stones is pressed. The laid material must "sink" at least 2/3 of its height.
- Ideally, each layer is processed with vibrating equipment. Pressing allows not only to compact the bottle, but also to prevent the formation of air bubbles. If it is not possible to apply the technique, then the work is done manually. To do this, the largest stones are slightly lifted with a bayonet shovel or crowbar. Each row is laid with wire, metal rods or reinforcing mesh.
- Although this method involves the use of stones of arbitrary shape, their width (diagonal) should not be more than 2/3 of the width of the structure under construction.
- If for any reason it is necessary to interrupt construction works, it is recommended to fill only vertical joints with mortar. When pouring the entire row after resuming work, large notches are made in the solidified mass, fragments and dust should be removed.
Rubble stone foundation video
- The masonry is covered with wood flooring or any roll materials to protect it from premature drying. This method is especially relevant in windy or sunny weather. If possible, the first few days the unfinished foundation is moistened with water.
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