What is foundation drainage. Foundation drainage - main types and installation technologies
The work on the manufacture of this type of drainage is quite laborious, because it is required to select a large amount of soil and then fill it with rubble and sand in its place.
To properly make drainage around the house, you should start making it with markings. To do this, the perimeter is measured and a rope or construction cord is pulled along its edges. After that, you can start to soil sampling. Since the insulated slab foundation is a shallowly buried structure, the depth of soil sampling should not exceed 0.5 meters. As a rule, only the fertile soil layer is removed. Further, to the bottom of the pit geotextile is being laid and wrap around its edges. After that, they start backfilling and tamping. sand cushion. It is necessary to compact the sand using a mechanical vibrator. After a layer of sand, it is poured into the pit, leveled and rammed rubble.
Simultaneously with the laying of crushed stone, along the perimeter of the pit, drainage pipe with the required bias. Manholes are installed at the corners of the future foundation, which are necessary for servicing the system. The slope of the drainage pipe must be at least two degrees.
As a result, it should turn out that the drainage pipe is inside the rubble layer. If necessary, pipes can additionally be laid in several more places, this will enhance the protection of the foundation from moisture.
A receiving well is installed at the outlet of the pipes of the drainage system. This completes the work with the drainage system and you can proceed to further work on the construction of the foundation.
The main mistakes in the manufacture of drainage
To properly drain the foundation, you need to know the main mistakes made during its construction.
The most common mistake during the construction of the drainage system, it is combining it with water coming from the roof of the building. This cannot be done for the simple reason that in the autumn, with a large amount of precipitation, the drainage system may not be able to cope with the removal of a large amount of water and start working in reverse mode.
This will certainly affect soil moisture and it will turn out that all work on drainage and drainage of the site will be in vain.
The second common problem is failure to comply with the required drainage slope. As a result, blockages constantly occur in the system, and it cannot function normally.Third, this use of drainage pipes without additional filter winding, which also affects the timing of clogging of the system.
Output
Self-production of a drainage system is beneficial only in the case of deep annular drainage, manufactured along the outer perimeter of an already finished one, since work on its implementation does not require the use of special equipment.
In the case of reservoir drainage, all work is much more complicated and requires certain skills from the master, as well as the availability of special tools, such as a level and a vibrator.
Useful video
How to lay the groundwater drainage system and the roof drainage system:
In contact with
Starting work on building a house, you need to have an idea about all the stages of construction, including how to properly drain the foundation. The reliability of the entire structure depends on the quality of the foundation.
The drainage system is used to strengthen the foundation with an unfavorable type of soil, or in conditions of frequent precipitation and is of two types:
Wall drainage system
House foundation drainage
It is necessary to drain melt, ground and other waters and protect the structure from their harmful effects. With high-quality installation of drainage, the service life of the building is significantly increased, since it prevents the accumulation of moisture, the formation of mold and other adverse factors that lead to the destruction of the house.
Wall drainage is an angled system consisting of closed pipes. The corners of the structure are equipped with manholes. Wells are necessary to eliminate blockages that may occur during operation.
With the help of drainage, the hydrostatic and mechanical pressure of soil water on the foundation is removed.
Ring drainage system
Ring type drainage
This drainage system is not mounted at the surface of the walls, but at a certain distance from them (about 3m). This drainage is used in the absence of the possibility of using a wall type and an installed blind area.
In the absence of waterproofing of the walls, or the presence of a reinforced concrete base, it is worth making a choice in favor of wall drainage, otherwise you will not get the desired result.
Consequences of lack of drainage
The presence of a drainage system is simply necessary, otherwise the impact of moisture on the base of the house will lead to its destruction. The consequences will manifest themselves gradually in the form of skewed walls, roofs and the entire structure. That is, over time, the probability of falling at home is high.
Pipes for drainage
To create a drainage system, there are many materials that are sold in hardware stores. The most used are corrugated polyethylene pipes, which bend well. The walls of such pipes are equipped with holes (perforations) necessary for the passage of water into them and further into the catchment.
Pipe laying is carried out at a depth of up to 3 meters, and the service life exceeds half a century. They are mounted both before waterproofing and after. The diameter varies from 5 to 20 cm.
If there is a high possibility of penetration of foreign particles into the pipe, and, accordingly, there is a high probability of blockages, an additional winding from the geotextile is required.
Geotextile
Geotextile Geotextile in Lately rapidly gaining popularity in the construction industry. It is produced using a woven or non-woven method from polymer fibers. Since the raw materials are environmentally friendly, the final material is also environmentally friendly.
The geotextile has the following advantages:
- chemical resistance;
- no reaction resulting from thermal oxidation;
- not subject to rotting, mold and fungal diseases;
- due to its structure, the geotextile is protected from rodent attacks and plant germination.
This material is used when filtration, separation, drainage and protection of the drainage system is required.
Self-installation of the drainage system
Materials for work
ring drainage When thinking about building your own house, it is necessary to provide for a drainage system, otherwise the life of the structure will be minimal.
This task should be approached with maximum responsibility and it is advisable to entrust all work to specialists. However, having acquired the necessary theoretical base, you can cope on your own.
- A sand cushion is made at the bottom of the ditch;
- Installation of pipes is carried out at an angle of 1 cm per meter;
- The pipes are cut with a hacksaw, then the sections are connected using a press fit and the joints are sealed with glue, followed by tape wrapping;
- Having laid and formed the pipeline, the ditch must be covered with a 30 cm layer of fine gravel, then a layer of filtering geotextile spreads;
- A non-perforated collector is installed on top of the entire structure, which is attached to downpipes using fittings;
- The last step is the tamping of the upper soil layer covering the entire structure. If there is a possibility of abundant water flows, it is necessary to provide for a crushed stone embankment of large or medium fractions.
On this, drainage work is considered completed, and in the future you can not worry about the safety of your own home.
How to do foundation drainage
An important functional purpose of foundation drainage is the timely drainage of the foundation of the house, protection from damage caused by excessive dampness, mold, and freezing.
As well as preventing flooding of basements and cellars, the formation of puddles from precipitation, melt and groundwater on the footpaths around the building.
Drainage is able to reliably protect the foundation from flooding with groundwater.
An efficient modern drainage system along the perimeter of the foundation extends the life of residential buildings, commercial buildings and structures of various types.
What is drainage and why is it needed
Drainage is a closed system of drainage pipes located at a certain angle below the level of the base of the foundation. All pipes are interconnected by special wells for drains.
To install the foundation drainage, wear-resistant double-layer corrugated pipes with a diameter of up to 110 mm and external gutters for efficient water drainage are used.
High-quality drainage provides for the quick and safe removal of water from the plot and foundation. It protects the base of the building, basement and technical rooms from flooding caused by ground and melt water, precipitation and runoff.
Drains, properly laid in earthen trenches around the entire perimeter of the building, are able to divert excess water, prevent the appearance of dampness, fungus and the destruction of load-bearing walls.
The complexity of the installation of drainage directly depends on the type of soil and terrain on which the building is located, as well as the depth of groundwater flow.
What types are
According to the installation method modern system drainage is divided into two types: closed and open.
Closed drainage is installed in a traditional and combined way, which provides for the additional installation of drainage channels and pipes.
Open drainage is simpler and more affordable in terms of installation and maintenance, it requires the preparation of shallow earthen drainage trenches along the perimeter of the site, interconnected by protective gratings.
According to the method of entry of effluents, drainage can be divided into the following types:
- Perfect. The system provides for lateral and upper entry of wastewater into the drainage. Sprinkling of such drainage is carried out in the direction of groundwater intake;
- Imperfect. This type of system is installed above the water stop. This assumes top, bottom and side penetration of groundwater and runoff into the system, and drainage is sprinkled from all sides.
According to the functionality, foundation drainage can be of several types:
This type of drainage system is also known as a trench. The distance from the foundation to the drainage is 1–3.5 meters.
Suitable for areas located on clay soils and loams, as well as for buildings that do not have ground floors, basement, garage and other technical premises.
Between the ring (trench) drainage and the base of the house, a clay layer is laid, which prevents the building from flooding.
Distinctive characteristics of the ring drainage system:
- Such a drainage system is presented in the form of a semi-closed ring with a moisture-resistant interior;
- The installation of the system is carried out below the level of the base of the premises for which drainage is provided;
- The distance between the drains and the wall of the building is 3 meters. With highly permeable soils, the pipe laying depth is up to 100 cm, on weak soils - up to 200 cm.
This type of system is designed to protect buildings with basements, basements and technical rooms located on soils with a high content of clay and sand.
Laying a wall drainage system with your own hands is carried out at the stage of foundation construction. For buildings of any type, the foundation drainage is carried out along the perimeter of the base, in the outer corners the pipes are docked with manholes, and at the lowest point - with a well for pumping wastewater.
Additionally, a protective clay lock is installed to effectively remove excess moisture. The distance between it and the outer walls of the building is 100 cm.
Distinctive characteristics of the wall system:
- It is often used for a mixed type of groundwater source;
- Drainage is laid along the perimeter of the building at a distance that does not exceed the width of the foundation;
- The laying of the system is carried out not below the level of the base of the foundation;
Used in combination with ring and wall systems. It is used with a large number of underground sources on any soil, especially on clay and loam.
Formation drainage can be connected to the external drainage system using connecting pipes laid through the foundation of the building. This method of water disposal is especially effective for pile foundation which you can do by hand.
Drainage scheme
For all types of foundations, a classic drainage system scheme is used.
It provides for the laying of drainage pipes with a diameter of up to 110 mm along the perimeter of the base of the building. Each drain is mounted at an inclination of up to 8 degrees, and is connected to rotary wells at the outer corners of the perimeter.
At the outlet of the system there is a well equipped with a pump for pumping wastewater. Such a scheme is intended to equip the drainage of a strip foundation, pile, columnar, slab and other types of foundations.
The foundation drainage device consists of such elements as:
- Pipes for drainage with perforation;
- A layer of crushed stone;
- Geotextile;
- Gravel protective layer;
- Drainage wells.
Preparatory work
Before laying the foundation drainage with your own hands, it is necessary to perform a set of preparatory work. They are carried out according to the following algorithm:
- First you need to dig out the base of the building. The outer part of the foundation is cleared of the ground and the old waterproofing layer (if any) is left to dry.
- The outer part of the foundation is treated with a special primer based on bitumen and kerosene.
- After priming, the base is covered with bituminous mastic, resistant to groundwater.
- A special paint mesh with a mesh size of 2.5 × 2.5 mm is installed in the finished layer of mastic.
- A day after the mastic dries, an additional protective layer of coating should be made.
After the work on preparing the foundation is completed, you can start laying the drainage system.
Materials and tools for laying
To properly lay the drainage system with your own hands, you should prepare the main set of materials and tools:
- Perforated drainage pipes made of PVC, HDPE, PP, NDPE. They are produced with the necessary equipment. The degree of rigidity of the pipes is selected taking into account such parameters as the speed and volume of groundwater;
- gravel;
- Sand;
- Wells of rotary type;
- Plastic barrel with perforation for pumping wastewater;
- Pump;
- Pipe clamps;
- Geotextile;
- Shovel and bayonet shovels;
- Pick;
- Electric perforator;
- Trolley for transportation of bulk materials.
Self built
How is the do-it-yourself foundation drainage system laid? The whole process is carried out in several stages:
- Along the perimeter of the building at a distance of 1.5 meters from the foundation, it is necessary to make a trench at an angle of 8 degrees. Excavation are carried out taking into account the highest point. The width of the trench should be 35 cm greater than the width of the pipes. When choosing the depth of the trench, parameters such as the height of the finished foundation, the depth of its laying and the level of groundwater are taken into account.
- At the outer corners of the trench, special extensions are provided for the installation of rotary wells.
- A protective layer of sand up to 25 cm high is poured onto the bottom and is well compacted.
- Geotextile strips are laid out on the sand layer so that the edges of the cuts protrude beyond the trench.
- Next, a layer of coarse gravel is poured to a height of up to 20 cm.
- Drainage pipes can now be installed with a slight slope towards the lowest point of the system. At the turn, special bends are installed for the installation of rotary wells. Pipes are securely fixed with copper clamps.
- In the final part of the system, at a depth of up to 0.6 meters, such an important element as a well for pumping wastewater is installed. The bottom of the pit for the sewer well is lined with geotextiles, then a plastic container with perforated walls is installed and covered with rubble. A drainage pump is mounted in the prepared wastewater tank.
- All connecting pipes of the system are brought to the collection well at an angle.
- The installed drainage pipes are covered with crushed stone, after which the ends of the geotextile are connected and secured with reliable fasteners.
- Branches or small boards are laid out on top of the geotextile to provide additional rigidity. Next, the trench is covered with sand and soil in such a way that a barely noticeable hill is formed.
At this point, the do-it-yourself drainage installation process is considered complete, and the system is completely ready for operation.
Foundation drainage: device, types, do-it-yourself installation
Drainage is a closed system of drainage pipes located at a certain angle below the level of the base of the foundation. All pipes are interconnected by special wells for drains.
Do-it-yourself foundation drainage
Closely located groundwater or a large accumulation of moisture in the soil have a negative impact on any buildings, especially on the foundation. Therefore, to eliminate excessive moisture, it is necessary to carry out measures related to the installation of a drainage system. It is not so difficult to make foundation drainage if you know the features of its installation and the technology of work.
The need for drainage for the foundation and its function
Even the deep occurrence of groundwater in some cases requires the arrangement of drainage, in each case a large number of factors are considered. In some situations, drainage around the foundation is necessary anyway. Here are some of them:
- With a large depth of the basement, when it is below the groundwater level, or less than half a meter from the basement floor to them;
- If the basement is equipped in loamy or clay soil, the level of groundwater passage in this case is not taken into account;
- With a depth of underground premises of more than 1-1.5 meters in conditions of loamy or clayey soil;
- If the place where the building is located is a zone of capillary moisture.
Based on the foregoing, it can be concluded that drainage is necessary when groundwater is located in critical proximity to the building, or passes high enough, giving the impression of a swampy area with no vegetation. There is no need to equip such a system when the soil is dry, and even during the rainy season the groundwater level does not rise to critical levels.
The main functions of the drainage system include:
- Protection against flooding of the building located on the site;
- Ensuring reliable waterproofing of the foundation;
- Prevention of waterlogging of the territory;
- Timely removal of excess water;
- Reducing the degree of heaving of the soil;
- Reducing the pressure of the frozen soil layer on the foundation of the building in winter;
If the right choice of the type of drainage is made, and the design is made in compliance with the project, then the pipes and wells included in the drainage system will significantly reduce the likelihood of cracks and cracks in the foundation, improving its strength characteristics.
Types of drainage
Depending on the installation depth of the drainage system, wall drainage of the foundation is distinguished:
- Deep, mounted strictly below the level of soil freezing, taking into account the depth of the passage of groundwater, or taking into account the degree of drainage of soil layers;
- Surface drainage performs the function of collecting storm and waste water. This type of construction is most often used to protect against moisture. strip foundations, and its installation is carried out around the entire perimeter of the blind area. The system of such drainage involves the removal of raindrops that flow down the walls of the building, fall onto the blind area, and from there into the drainage system.
Each of these types of drainage can be either an annular type or a reservoir type.
The ring type scheme is a closed loop encircling the building along the perimeter. With a deep laying system, such a structure can also be laid in a radial way over the entire plane of the structure.
It is most expedient to build reservoir drainage in the case of the Foundation of the building of the "Swedish plate" type. It is laid at a level lower than the plane of the foundation. The peculiarity of the technology of its laying is that drainage pipes are laid on a sand and gravel cushion, on top of which they are covered with a foundation slab.
Necessary tools and materials
To make the drainage of the foundation with your own hands, you will need tools and materials such as:
- Pipes for drainage, usually with a diameter of 100 - 1120 mm, with transverse stiffeners that prevent punching and ensure proper load distribution;
- Wells, which can be either observation wells (most often made of plastic and installed at the corners of the foundation) or receiving wells (of which water gradually goes into the soil, and their location is the territory outside the site);
- Storm drains - designed to drain rainwater from the foundation, and have a semicircular shape;
- Geotextile - its function is to filter the water that enters the drainage system. It is a special canvas, the structure of which is made up of polypropylene threads, unique in their characteristics.
Work technology
Do-it-yourself foundation drainage is quite simple, for this you need to follow certain rules for its construction, depending on the type of foundation of the building.
slab foundation
The drainage of the slab foundation consists of the following stages:
- A drainage well is installed 20 meters from the building;
- The depth of laying the water intake pipe is estimated and the maximum allowable level of pipe laying is determined;
- Then the pipe is laid, which is gradually filled up, until tightly fixed, after which it is completely covered with backfill;
- The next step is backfilling with sand 10 cm thick, after which it is filled with water and rammed;
- Next, another layer of geotextile is placed to prevent mixing of layers, filtering water and preventing capillary suction of moisture;
- The layer of gravel poured on top is compacted, and on top it is covered with areas of unfilled geotextile;
- Two layers of XPS are laid, 50 mm each;
- Then the formwork structure is installed and covered with a film 6 mm thick;
- Then, to enhance the strength characteristics, reinforcement is installed and the concrete mixture is poured.
Columnar (pile) foundation
The drainage of the pile foundation is done in this way:
- A 20 cm layer of sand, crushed stone is laid in a ditch dug along the perimeter of the building, and a drainage pipe is placed on top;
- A layer of crushed stone of 30 cm is again poured from above, and geotextiles are laid;
- Everything is covered with earth.
Rules for the organization of the drainage system
After completing all the work, it is necessary to make wells into which excess water will flow. There are some rules for installing them:
- They are most often located in the corners of the building;
- For a medium-sized house, 4 viewing and 2 receiving wells are usually enough;
Installation of the drainage system is done at a distance of 1.5 - 3 meters from the foundation. The slope should be towards the main receiving well, its beginning should be from the far corner well.
To make your foundation protected from moisture and precipitation, groundwater, you should use the most suitable drainage system, choosing its type depending on the base and soil characteristics.
High-quality drainage, made according to the rules, can reliably protect the house from flooding, prevent the formation of excess moisture, mold and fungus on the walls of the basement or basement, and also extend the life of the entire house.
foundation drainage
Do-it-yourself foundation drainage Closely located groundwater or a large accumulation of moisture in the soil have a negative impact on any buildings, especially on the foundation. Therefore, for
Do-it-yourself foundation drainage: instructions for slab, strip and column bases
Frost on the walls of the bathhouse, mold and dampness inside are a sure sign that the drainage of the foundation and the drainage of storm water were not done in a timely manner. And this situation is especially dangerous when there is a high level of groundwater on the site - then dampness in the bath and destructive mold on the foundation are provided! Only high-quality drainage around the foundation can save from all this.
What is drainage?
The word "drainage" comes from "drain" - "pipe". In fact, wall drainage of the foundation is a closed system, which is sloping and located below the level of the base of its pouring. The drainage pipes themselves are interconnected at the corners of the bath with special "revision wells". Everything works like this: the excess water that accumulates over time in the soil enters the drainage pipes, and through them - into the collection well, and already from it by pumping out - into the ditch.
As for drainage pipes, it is better not to purchase corrugated flexible pipes for this purpose - they are good in some ways, but it is extremely difficult to maintain the required slope with them. Much better than ordinary orange sewer pipes, in which it is easy to drill as many holes as you like.
And the gutters are used to divert atmospheric water from the foundation - and they are protected with the help of cast-iron gratings.
How to properly design a drainage system?
How effective the foundation drainage device will turn out to be directly depends on the accuracy and literacy of its design, as well as on how high-quality materials were used for this. So, for starters, it is important to calculate the loads that the trays and drains will withstand. And for particularly significant loads, it is better not to take plastic pipes.
It is most rational to develop a drainage system even when designing a steam room. And before that, you need to know:
- Ground water level
- foundation level
- Soil composition
The last point is especially important - the correct drainage of the foundation must necessarily take into account the properties of the soil, and materials are selected according to them: sand, geotextiles, a fraction of crushed stone, and the diameter of the holes in the drainage pipe is calculated. The easiest way is to get all this from a company that did similar drainage in the neighborhood, namely what materials they use to work in this area, how much and why.
There is also no universal depth for the drainage system - it directly depends on the depth of the foundation. But usually the drainage system around the bath is made at a distance of one meter from the walls and at a depth just below the foundation itself.
There is another controversial point: many attendants, during the arrangement of drainage, by trial and error, connected the storm pipe to the drainage pipe - it seems to be more convenient. And how would such systems work normally. But, at the same time, according to building codes, this is not recommended - after all, storm pipes collect surface water, and drainage - only groundwater. Those. their tasks are different, and such experiments are fraught with consequences.
We arrange drainage in the slab foundation
But how to make a foundation-slab drainage? Such a base is often chosen for a bath due to the fact that thanks to it you can make a small technical underground and mount all communications there. The voids between them are covered with sand, insulation is put in and everything is covered with a finishing screed already on the floor. But there is an important point here: water must be diverted from the foundation, especially if the soil itself is saturated with moisture - and it is on this that a monolithic slab is most often built. Yes, and constant dampness in a Russian bath is completely useless ... But there is a way out: this is a good drainage system around the foundation.
Let's break down the whole process step by step:
Step 1. So, first you need to determine exactly where the water will be discharged. Usually this is a drainage well 20 meters from the house. It is necessary to assess the depth of passage of the water intake pipe in the catchment area, and already on this basis to determine the maximum allowable depth of laying pipes around the bath - namely, the laying depth in the corner of the foundation as the closest to the water discharge point. And the general slope of the entire drainage system will be from about 70 cm to 1 meter.
Step 2. Next, the drainage work itself begins - a pit is dug to a depth of 40 cm. The whole pie will be like this: 10 cm of a sand cushion, 20 cm of gravel and 10 cm of EPPS insulation. The stock should be taken 1-1.5 cm from the edges of the plate.
Step 3. Along the entire perimeter of the bath, it is necessary to dig trenches with a slope - 10 cm deeper than it is supposed to lay the drainage pipe. For the convenience of controlling the position of the pipes, you can pull a rope over the trench itself - with the slope that will be needed.
Step 4. Now the trenches are covered with geotextiles 2 meters wide, and a gravel pillow is poured and rammed on top of them.
Step 5. A pipe is laid in the trench, and gently falls asleep a little. As soon as it is fixed, the final backfill is made.
Step 6. Now the entire pit is filled with a ten-meter layer of sand with watering and tamping.
Step 7. Next, the pit is covered with geotextile - so that the gravel following it is not pressed into the sand, and the layers do not mix. Such a gravel layer will filter water well and lower it into drainage wells, and will also prevent the effect of the so-called capillary suction of moisture.
Step 8. Once the gravel is compacted with a vibrating plate, those parts of the geotextile that protrude at the edges also need to be wrapped again on the gravel. As a result, after tamping, the entire layer will turn out to be even and uniform, the uniformity of the surface will fluctuate + -2 cm.
Step 9. The next step is to lay the XPS - 50 mm each, in two layers. The first layer will extend beyond the borders of the plate by 30 cm, and the second - by a maximum of 5 cm.
Step 10. As soon as the XPS is embedded, the formwork is mounted and the bottom is covered with a film 6 meters wide. Reinforcement is knitted and mortar is poured.
The drainage pipe itself for these purposes can be purchased in geotextile or in coconut winding, which, of course, is more expensive, but more efficient.
How to make drainage of columnar and strip foundations?
Here is how the drainage system is arranged around other types of foundation:
Step 1. The ditch is deepened, and the following is placed on its bottom: sand - 20 cm, crushed stone and a drainage pipe.
The task of the filtration layer is to increase the efficiency of sediment water disposal through drainage. It is made from a filler that would have high water permeability - usually gravel. But it is possible to lay the filtration layer only after waterproofing the foundation walls.
Step 2. Crushed stone is again poured over the pipe, at least 30 cm, and wrapped in geotextiles.
For reference: geotextile is a thin non-woven fabric made of synthetic fibers. It was specially created for laying in the ground - the geotextile passes water well, but it retains small particles of the earth. For the drainage system, this is what you need.
Step 3. All this is covered with earth. By the way, the drainage itself can go into a ditch along the road - if it is well located. And for this, the same water can be pumped out of the wells forcibly - with the help of pumps.
If the drainage system is designed correctly, then the excess moisture that previously impregnated the foundation walls will be removed. And most importantly, the drainage system relieves hydrostatic and mechanical pressure on the foundation itself, and such a bath will last much longer than the one that was built "at random".
How to make wall drainage around the foundation with your own hands
All about the foundation drainage system: what it is designed for, which pipes are better to take and where to drain water, how to organize drainage from slab and strip foundations.
Let's make a reservation right away, drainage and waterproofing are different concepts and one of them does not exclude the other. Drainage around the house (drainage system) allows you to remove or reduce the level of water in the area.
The danger lies both from the outside (precipitation, flood waters) and from the inside (groundwater). Waterproofing protects the foundation of the building from water ingress.
But, even a foundation that is qualitatively isolated from water will not protect the foundation of a private house (basement) and the basement from water ingress for a long time. After all, if the water constantly pushes, it will find weaknesses in the waterproofing. And vice versa, if you take it away in time, your house or cottage will be safe.
When is a drainage system needed?
- site location. The lower it is, the more urgent problem drainage;
- soil quality - on clay and loamy soils, the water level decreases slowly;
- rainfall in your area;
- groundwater level;
- deepening of other buildings on the site. If the adjacent building has a heavily buried foundation, the water will have nowhere to go, and it will accumulate on the surface, increasing the risk of flooding;
- the presence of waterproof coatings - concrete paths, an asphalt yard - these are places inaccessible to water penetration.
Do-it-yourself drainage around the house will eliminate the problems caused by the factors listed above.
Types of drainage systems
Depending on the severity of the problem of flooding the site, there are several ways to make drainage around a private house.
Surface drainage
This type includes storm sewers (storm sewers). The advantage of such drainage is that its arrangement is simpler and accessible after most types of work on the site have been completed. Surface drainage systems allow you to divert only rain and melt water, they can not cope with groundwater.
There are two types of surface drainage devices: linear and point.
Linear drainage
It is focused on the removal of storm or melt water from the entire site and from the house, in particular. Water flows into channels dug in the ground and is discharged into a drainage well. As a rule, the channels have a straight linear shape and are closed with gratings.
Point drainage
Designed for quick drainage of water generated from local sources (eg under roof gutters, watering taps, etc.). Point drains are covered with decorative metal gratings to prevent clogging of the channel with debris and leaves. From each point, drainage pipes are laid, which are connected to the main main pipe leading to the drainage well.
Combined drainage combines the two systems mentioned above: point and line drainage.
According to the method of the device, the drainage can be open and closed.
open drainage
A system of trenches, gutters, drains or catchment trays.
Such a drainage is a trench, which is designed to drain storm and melt water from the house and from the site.
The principle of the open drainage system
A ditch up to half a meter wide and 50-60 cm deep is dug along all sides of the site and around the house. All these trenches are connected to a common drainage trench.
In order for the water to flow freely into the trench from the side of the house in the ditch, a bevel is made at an angle of 30 °, and the slope towards the main water intake trench (or drain well) will allow water to be drained by gravity in the right direction.
plus open system drainage can be called low cost and high speed of work. But, if you need to drain a large amount of melt and rainwater, then you will have to arrange a deep drainage line into which someone can fall. The unfinished walls of the ditches are collapsing. Such a system spoils the appearance of the site.
It is possible to increase the service life and increase the safety of such a system through the use of special trays (made of plastic or concrete), which are closed with bars from above.
Closed drainage
It has a more aesthetic appearance compared to the previous one, as it is equipped with a protective grill, but the receiving ditch is much narrower and smaller. Their views are shown in the photo.
Backfill drainage - a system of backfilled trenches
It is used in the case when the area of the site is small, and it is impossible or impractical to make open drainage. The disadvantage of this system is the inability to carry out maintenance of the trench after the arrangement without dismantling.
Proper drainage around this type of house is arranged in several stages.
- a trench is dug to a depth of about a meter with the obligatory observance of a slope towards the drain (drainage) well;
- geotextile is laid at the bottom of the trench;
- the trench is covered with gravel, crushed stone, etc.;
- a layer of turf is laid on top. This stage is optional, but allows you to give the site a more aesthetic appearance.
deep drainage
The disposal of a large amount of groundwater requires the construction of a solid system - deep drainage of the site. The device of a deep drainage system is used in areas with clay soil located in a lowland and characterized by a high level of groundwater.
The device process is laborious and consists in laying pipes (the diameter depends on the amount of water removed) from perforations into deep trenches (depending on the height of the soil water).
Closed drainage - pipe system
How to make drainage around the house with your own hands
Step-by-step instructions for a closed-type drainage device
- Determine the location of the closed drainage system, which can be implemented in two versions:
- pass only near the foundation, i.e. around the house (wall drainage), preventing the penetration of water directly into the house.
- located throughout the site, thus the basement of the cottage, as well as plantings and other outbuildings, will be protected.
The drainage scheme around the house is shown in the photo
- Mark the location of the drainage ditches on the site. Usually, devices such as a laser rangefinder and a level are used for this. But, you can make it easier, trace where the grooves of water remain after the rain - drainage trenches should be laid there.
- Dig trenches. When digging, be sure to observe the height difference. After all, water should flow to the drainage well, and not accumulate in the pipes.
Advice. To check the "workability" of the trench, it is better to wait for heavy rain and see if there are any places where there is a significant accumulation of water.
- Lay a layer of geotextile. Its role in drainage is to filter the water of impurities that can clog the perforation of the drainage pipe.
Advice. If you have clay soil - geofabric is required, if crushed stone or sand, then it is not necessary.
You can take any geotextile, the main thing is that it passes and filters water well. It is better not to take dense needle-punched geotextiles, because. it does not pass water well.
- Fill the bottom (bottom) of the trench with gravel.
Lay a perforated pipe - the basis of the drainage system. Pipes can be ceramic or plastic. But in any kind of pipes there must be perforation for receiving water (perforation can be done independently, using a drill). The pipes are connected to each other by means of a cross or a tee. The material was prepared for the site www.site
Advice. The pipe perforation should be smaller than the size of the smallest particle of gravel.
- Bring the ends of the pipe into the manholes. Such wells are installed at all turns in order to be able to take care of the system. For example, clean the pipe with water pressure or evaluate the change in water level.
Advice. Collecting pipes over a large area of the site must converge into a main pipe (with a diameter of more than 100 mm.), Which will carry the collected water to the drainage well.
Bring the ends of the pipe into the drainage well. This is the last component of a closed drainage system.
According to their functional purpose, drainage wells are divided into two types:
- accumulating. This well has a sealed bottom. Water accumulates in it and is then used for irrigation;
- absorbing. A well without a bottom, the water in it gradually sinks into the soil.
- Fill the geofabric with crushed stone without reaching the top level of the ground 200mm.
- Cover drainage pipes with crushed stone to a height of 300mm.
- Wrap the pipes with overlapping geotextile and fix the joints with a rope.
- Fill in sand, earth and/or lay sod.
Advice. On top of a closed system, you can install a surface drainage (storm system) and also lead it to a drainage well.
The finished drainage system in the section is shown in the photo
Conclusion
Which of the listed types of drainage is right for you can be determined only by knowing the features of the site. In general, you should choose the drainage around the house, the cost of the arrangement and operation of which is the lowest, and of course, which you can do yourself. At the same time, it must qualitatively and reliably perform the role of a drainage system. Indeed, according to experts, proper drainage around the house will extend its life by more than 50 years.
The stability of the structure and the long service life of any building directly depends on the quality of its foundation. The foundation is the support of the entire building structure and a reliable foundation that evenly transfers the load to the ground. Not surprisingly, the cost of founding houses sometimes reaches 40% of all construction costs.
The construction of the foundation begins after taking into account the type of soil (sandstone, clay soil, gravel, sandy loam, etc.), the freezing point of the soil in winter, the choice of the type of foundation and the exact calculation of its dimensions.
Importance of drainage
If the owners did not provide for the drainage system during the construction of the house, they will notice the consequences of their mistake very quickly. In the basement, after a year of operation, dampness will appear and fungus will spread due to seasonal flooding of the building. After another two or three years, the damp foundation will be covered with cracks that will move to the basement and walls.
All of the above signs are a strong argument in favor of immediate construction. storm sewer and arrangement of the drainage system of the foundation. Usually these two systems are built simultaneously for a comprehensive solution to problems with excess moisture. Creating a drainage system is as important as it is.
Drainage will help drain the foundation, prevent basement flooding in the spring, and avoid problems with building repairs in the near future.building codes
When starting to organize a drainage system, it is necessary to take into account important technical and construction points:
- Works are carried out only in the warm season. The period from the beginning of June to the end of August is considered optimal, when the air is warm enough, and heavy rains are very rare.
- The arrangement of a drainage system is a rather time-consuming process. For a person working alone, the work will take two to three months. A qualified team will cope on average in three to four weeks. For this reason, the owners hire special construction teams.
- If the work is carried out independently, additional installation around the building of a canopy made of polyethylene and boards is required. This precaution will help protect the already dug trenches and the building itself from moisture entering the basement in the event of heavy rain.
- During the rainy period of summer, the walls of the trenches are reinforced with gratings to prevent soil from crumbling into the structure.
- The yard is equipped with a system of ladders (blind area) made of wood, allowing you to transport soil and building materials without any fear. This measure is especially relevant if there are lawns or a flower bed.
- For the most accurate design of the drainage system, a preliminary digging of the foundation is carried out. At this stage, it is possible to accurately determine the depth of the foundation, its shape and dimensions.
- Along the way, information is collected about the points of maximum accumulation of moisture and the level of groundwater in a particular area.
- At the next stage, the depth of laying pipes and places for placing drainage wells are determined.
- And only after that the list and quantity of building materials becomes obvious.
The following requirements are put forward for the elements of the drainage system:
- The trench is dug at a distance of one meter from the house and 10-30 centimeters below its base (that is, the laying of pipes is carried out below the foundation). The width of the trench should not exceed 35-40 centimeters.
- A sand cushion must be laid at the bottom of the trench and a slope towards the water collectors is provided (approximately 1 cm per meter).
- Wells (water collectors) are prohibited to be placed at a distance closer than three meters to the house. The best option would be to use a plastic container with a drainage hole at the bottom.
- At the junction of pipes, it is recommended to place manholes. These facilities will assist in flushing the system during operation.
- If high soil moisture is recorded on the site, several water collectors are installed. They are placed side by side and connected to each other by pipes.
Work order
The device of the drainage system begins with the preparation of the foundation, which includes:
- digging out the entire base of the house (the excavated soil is located on a special construction site, it is used for backfilling);
- digging a trench below the foundation level;
- drying the foundation with a gas burner (but it is better if it dries for fresh air) and its cleaning from the earth and the remnants of the former waterproofing;
- processing the outer part of the base of the house with a primer (bitumen-kerosene mixture);
- applying bituminous mastic;
- laying reinforced mesh or geotextile fabric on fresh bitumen;
- re-applying the mastic (about a day after the first layer has completely dried).
Gravel is poured into the excavated trench. It's quite expensive, but good quality. construction material, which does not shrink and has excellent filtering properties. Each layer of gravel is compacted with a hand roller.
After the preparatory work and the arrangement of the gravel filter, you can proceed with the installation of the drainage system:
- a moat is dug around the building (the depth is below the level of the foundation, the width is not less than thirty centimeters, the distance from the building is one meter);
- sand is poured to the bottom with a slope towards the water collectors (pillow thickness from 5 to 10 centimeters);
- the bottom and walls are lined with geofabric, the edges of which are temporarily fixed with pins;
a layer of gravel ten centimeters thick is poured on top; - plastic pipes for drainage with perforation are laid (they are produced already wrapped with geofabric);
pipes are covered with a layer of gravel; - above the backfill, the edges of the geotextile are combined and sewn together;
- manholes are located at the corners of the building;
- water intakes are located 3-5 meters from the house below the foundation, but above groundwater (in not too
- wet soil, two water intakes-wells are enough);
- the bottom of all technical pits is lined with geotextiles;
- containers for collecting moisture are sprinkled with gravel, and covered with soil from above (at the bottom of the water collectors
- two or three holes are pre-drilled for water drainage);
- pumps are connected (if it is provided by the project);
- the entire system is backfilled with soil.
Tools and materials
For construction work you will need:
- bayonet and shovel;
- hammer and other small construction tools;
- drill for working with water collectors;
- perforated plastic pipes (diameter from 7.5 to 10 cm);
- fittings for assembling the pipeline and crosspieces for manholes;
- manholes with plastic hatches;
- plastic tanks for collecting water;
- geotextiles in rolls;
- bituminous mastic for foundation processing;
- gravel and sand.
Important Points
The device of manholes will help in regular cleaning of the pipeline from dirt accumulated inside. Enough four wells with hatches.
Increased soil moisture requires additional installation of overflow collectors, which serve as reserve tanks and are installed next to the main water collection tanks. The main drains are brought only to the main water collectors.
It is forbidden to sprinkle water collectors with soil. This may cause the container to deform or crack. Backfilling is carried out with fine gravel, which prevents the water collector from heaving.
The angle of inclination of the pipes is selected so that the lower point of the system is 20 cm above the base of the foundation, and the upper one is at the same distance below the floor level in the basement.
Exploitation
A well-designed drainage system does not require any additional maintenance other than cleaning or flushing pipes with. The procedure is performed depending on the degree of clogging of pipes (drains) once a year or less often with the involvement of specialists.
Everyone understands perfectly well that not one house will be able to stand for a long time without quality foundation. Also, not one foundation can do without good protection against moisture and water. Even when creating a project, architects propose to immediately provide for the drainage of the foundation of the house and draw a waterproofing system on the diagram.
The Russian proverb is widely known - "Water wears away the stone." Here it will come in handy, moreover, in its direct understanding. Even the strongest and most solid foundation of a house can easily be destroyed by water. With a high level of groundwater, external waterproofing alone (see) simply cannot protect the basement from water. In such cases, a whole underground system of channels is developed that will withstand the load and keep the foundation dry. There will be dry air in the house, and a fungus will never start in the basement or basement. The price for these works in specialized firms is high, but you can do everything cheaper yourself.
To install the drainage of the foundation with your own hands, use special types pipes. They must be suitable for
deep installation into the ground. Having made the drainage of the foundation with your own hands, the owner of the house will extend its life by several decades.
Before doing such work, the question arises, how to make the drainage of the foundation yourself? This can be done by reading our article to the end and watching the video with phased work. The attached diagrams will also help. Of course, not everyone makes such a system in their home, but in vain. There are a number of cases when the installation of drainage is simply necessary:
- if, according to the project, the building will have a basement or basement;
- if the geodesy of the area is characterized by increased soil knotting;
- if the groundwater level is equal to the bayonet of one or less than five shovels;
- if there is a system in the basement of the building that needs to be protected from flooding under any climatic conditions.
In the spring or autumn season, the earth saturated with moisture will have a lot of weight. Consequently, the pressure on the foundation will increase. In winter or early spring, frost often alternates with thaw, which greatly affects the foundation of the building. Water penetrates into the smallest cracks, blurring and increasing their size. This can be avoided by organizing a competent drainage system.
In such a situation, it is best to turn to specialists who can design a drainage system, but the price for this service is high. In the absence of extra material resources, this can be done by ourselves. It is important to understand that the diverted water should not accumulate in puddles on the site or paths. It is better if she leaves your territory altogether.
Types and types of drainage
Modern drainage can be of two types:
- Perfect drainage. It is made in aquifer. Water enters this type of drainage from above and from the side. This means that this type should be sprinkled from above and from the sides.
- Imperfect drainage. It is made above the level of the aquiclude. Water enters it from above and below and from the side, which means that the sprinkling of such a foundation should be from all sides.
Video by device:
Today, there are several types of drainage from the foundation of a detached building:
Foundation ring drainage.
It is used to prevent flooding in the basements of detached buildings built on sandy soil. Water easily penetrates through this type of soil, and only ring drainage can save. What is important to consider when choosing this type of drainage:- the action of such drainage implies a ring, the inner part of which will be isolated from water;
- if water comes from one specific side, then such drainage can be laid in the form of an open circle;
- such a system is mounted below the floor level of the basement, which must be protected from moisture;
- such a system should be laid at a distance of 5-8 meters from the wall itself. If this distance is less, then it is necessary to take care of the removal, weakening or settlement of the soil of the building itself.
Wall drainage. Such drainage is used to prevent flooding of basements and basements of buildings built on clay or loamy soil. It is quite difficult for water to penetrate through such soil. What is important to know when choosing this type:
- It is often used as a prophylaxis against water;
- Such a drainage system is often used with a mixed source of groundwater;
- Such drainage is laid outside the building. The distance from the wall to the drainage system is equal to the width of the foundation of the building itself.
- Such a system is laid not below the level of the sole of the foundation;
- If the depth of the foundation is too large, then the drainage may be slightly higher.
Reservoir drainage. This type of drainage is usually used in combination with annular or wall drainage. What is important to know when choosing such a system:
- it is advisable to use such a system with a large amount of groundwater on soil of any type;
- have for prevention in clay and loamy soil;
- for the interaction of such a system with external drainage, a special pipe is laid through the entire foundation of the building.
The main difference, of course, between the ring drainage and the wall drainage is that it is located directly next to the foundation itself. A roundabout —
at a distance from the foundation at a distance of up to 3 meters. Other than that, they are basically the same.
The device of a classical drainage system, what is it?
The drainage system is a system of pipes that are interconnected and have a closed device system. Lay the drainage system with your own hands below the lowest point of the building level. The entire device is laid at a certain angle of inclination so that the water drains.
At each corner section of such a system, a reservoir is made, which is called a well. These wells are installed so that you can visually assess the condition of the drainage and, if necessary, easily clean the system.
All excess water enters the pipe device, of which into wells. From such wells, water is discharged outside the site. The method of water drainage from the building depends on which drainage project will be chosen.
Such a system easily levels the mechanical load from groundwater. It is worth noting that even with the most correct drainage system it is difficult to avoid moisture in the basement, especially on the walls at 100%.
To completely exclude the ingress of water into the device, which is located below the ground level, it is necessary to waterproof the foundation itself.
The classic scheme of the drainage system
The classic do-it-yourself drainage system is the system around the foundation of the house. Drains are installed at an angle of 5-8 degrees. The entire structure is surrounded by such a system along the perimeter, starting from the highest point to the lowest. At the end is a drainage well in which the pump is located.
When building such a system with their own hands, pipes with a stiffness of SN6 or more are used, but by no means less!
The entire system around the perimeter is equipped with reserve wells. At each angle of 90 degrees, it is imperative to install such wells with silt collectors. Otherwise, the system will often silt up. Each type of foundation has its own characteristics of drainage.
How to do the installation of the system yourself?
Ground water level
Of course, before doing any construction work, make up her project. Having drawn up a project, it will be easier to calculate the material expended and calculate how much the work will cost. The price for such a project in firms is high. But you can greatly reduce the price by calculating everything yourself.
Then you need to find out the occurrence of groundwater in your area. To do this, you can use special equipment or call specialists. This can be done independently.
To determine the water level, dig a test hole in the area, approximately 2.5 meters deep. You can see the layers of soil. See their structure, and also learn their character. Only then can you start the main work.
Preparation of the foundation of the building
The foundation itself also needs careful preparation before making the drainage system. For this:
- Digging around old foundation and clean off all the remnants of waterproofing from it. If they exist of course.
- Drying the foundation. This can be done with a heat gun or on a sunny and warm day, then the foundation will dry out on its own (but it will be much longer and may take a day — two).
- Now we apply a new waterproofing:
- coating;
- penetrating;
- from polyethylene;
- pasting (bitumen)
For shallow foundation
For this type of foundation, it is best to do drainage at the initial stage of construction according to the scheme. You need to arrange the pipes around the perimeter on the outside of the foundation in a circle. Swarm a trench no deeper than the sole of your foundation. Wells are dug in the corners, which will contain water tanks.
Drainage of a monolithic foundation
Such a foundation is built from monolithic watered. The plate is able to move when the ground moves. With such movements, the structure itself can move. To prevent this, it is worth considering the drainage system at the design stage of the house. A slab can become a reliable foundation for your home, only with a high-quality drainage system.
When building such a drainage, a moat is dug around the house, into which the drainage system itself will be laid. The moat swarms at least 3 meters from the slab. The bottom of such a trench is covered with brick battle. Then install the drainage perforated pipes themselves. From above they are covered with geotextiles, which will act as waterproofing. At the same time, water diversions are made.
Strip foundation drainage
The system of such drainage practically does not differ from the system of all other types of foundation. Around the house, a ditch is dug along the perimeter of the foundation, the depth of which should exceed the depth of the foundation itself. Then a broken brick is also laid on the bottom. They make an overlap of branches, which will strengthen the main overlap. Further on everything general rules dismantling.
DIY drainage system
Equipment
You will need:
- from low pressure polyethylene (HDPE);
- from polyvinyl chloride (PVC);
- from polypropylene (PP);
- high density polyethylene (HDPE).
They are released with a complete set of them. They differ in rigidity and holes (full or partial perforation). You need to choose depending on the hardness of the groundwater flow.
The price for them varies depending on the manufacturer from 1000 to 3000. It all depends on the type and manufacturer of pipes.
If the price scares you, you can make pipes yourself from PVC pipes. Just drill holes in them around the perimeter.
- Rubble or brick fight. Crushed stone will cost more, but it will also last a long time.
- Sand. An ordinary river will do.
- Plastic barrel (for absorption well). The larger the barrel, the larger and deeper the final drain hole should be. This issue can be studied in more detail in.
- Rotary wells (Special accessories for drainage pipes or PVC pipes with a diameter of 30 cm or more);
- Copper clips for PVC pipes
- Geotextile
Step-by-step installation scheme
The work itself is done in several stages:
Your drainage system is ready. But do not forget that without waterproofing the main foundation during its laying, it is impossible to completely protect your building from moisture.