How to make a fence in the country on the foundation. The foundation for the fence: how not to bury extra money
Before starting the construction of strip foundations, it is necessary to understand their features so as not to make mistakes that cannot be corrected later.
When building foundations, it is necessary to adhere to the following sequence:
Before starting the calculation of volumes and costs building materials for the construction of strip foundations, read the basic requirements for them. Strip foundations are built for capital structures with a large load on the foundation. In order to properly fill a rubble or concrete strip foundation for a fence with your own hands, you must first check the bearing capacity of the soil, make a calculation of materials, and find out the depth of the foundation.
fence plan
In order to draw up a work plan, it is necessary to measure the length of the proposed fence with a tape measure with an accuracy of 1 centimeter. Such accuracy is needed in order to be able to calculate not only the amount of building materials, but also to correctly place the pillars on the plan.
How to calculate the depth and width of the trench under the foundation
What do you need to know before starting construction? The main questions to be addressed are:
- the magnitude of vertical and horizontal loads;
- soil type;
- the presence of underground aquifers;
- find out the depth of soil freezing in the construction area.
Vertical load is the weight from building structures and materials located on the foundation. The calculation is made in tons / m2 based on the volumetric weight of the materials. For a brick fence, the weight of one brick (approximately 4.5 kg) is taken into account and multiplied by their number. The vertical load is directly related to the bearing capacity of the soil and is measured in kg/cm2. Having a total load on the foundation, in tons per square meter, it is easy to find out how many kg / cm2 falls in each case. To do this, it is necessary to divide the load by the area in cm2.
Horizontal load can be generated by a strong side wind or by hanging heavy metal gates.
To determine the type of soil, it is necessary to dig a hole to the depth of freezing and look at its structure. The pit will give a general idea of the presence of aquifers on the site and the level of occurrence of groundwater.
Find out the amount of soil freezing in any construction organization leading construction works in your area. How to calculate the freezing depth, see SNiP 23-01-99 *.
If groundwater reaches high to the surface, a drainage layer of crushed stone or gravel 200 mm thick must be made at the bottom of the trench.
Under what fences do you need solid foundations
Solid strip foundations are built if some part of the foundation rises above the ground. The upper part is lined with:
- decorative tiles;
- stone;
- plaster.
On strip foundations, solid fences made of corrugated board, brick, rubble stone can be arranged. For these types of fences, you need to make a solid concrete base. This is especially true for fences with brick pillars. For them, the geometric dimensions of the brick are taken into account. masonry brick pillars make in 1.5 bricks or 380 mm. This size will be the width for the entire strip foundation. In order to save material, the gap between the posts is reduced in width to 200 mm. A fence body with a width of 0.5 bricks or 125 mm is laid on it.
In order to reduce the width of the foundation to 125 mm, it is necessary to apply concrete reinforcement. Such measures lead to higher construction costs. However, modern industry has found a way out. For reinforcement, use fiberglass reinforcement. It is several times cheaper than metal fittings.
What brand of concrete to choose
For the installation of strip foundations for fences, it is recommended to use the concrete grade M200. Concrete with a brand below M200 is used for lightweight structures or preparation for the base. To calculate the grade of concrete, you do not need to reinvent the wheel. This issue has long been studied and it is necessary to adhere to the recommendations of cement manufacturers.
When preparing the mixture yourself, it is necessary to pay attention to the water-cement ratio and strictly adhere to it. If desired, a rubble-concrete strip foundation can be made in the ground using river or quarry stone. The use of rubble stone significantly reduces the consumption of cement, and generally reduces the cost of construction while maintaining the specified strength characteristics. concrete foundations will last for hundreds of years.
Try to drown the stones in the solution so that they do not touch each other. Between the stones there must be a concrete layer of at least 20 mm.
Rules for the preparation of concrete mix
When self-manufacturing a concrete mix, it is necessary to strictly follow the established rules:
- First, prepare the water in the required amount.
- Pour a measured amount of cement into the water and mix.
- Add sand to cement water.
- Lastly, add crushed stone, gravel, pebbles.
During preparation, the solution is either too thick or too liquid. Add some sand and cement to it in the required proportion.
Very often, cement manufacturers give recommendations for preparing mortar in kilograms, as if everyone had a scale at home capable of weighing materials in tons. Therefore, convert the weight ratios to volumetric ratios. And pour the materials into the concrete mixer with buckets. This is the most convenient way keep a record of the consumption of ingredients.
We build a strip foundation step by step
When building a foundation, consider some of the nuances. If the soils are clayey and the walls of the trench hold well and do not crumble, it is possible to concrete in the ground without formwork. After pouring concrete in the ground, formwork is constructed on it to the required dimensions. But it should be remembered that a freshly dug trench can crumble over time or under the influence of precipitation. Therefore, it is necessary to pour the concrete mixture quickly, without waiting for the destruction of the walls of the trench.
If the soils are sandy or sandy, then formwork will have to be done both in the ground and above the ground. The width of the trench should be such that the worker can stand freely in it at least on one side. For the strength and rigidity of the formwork, wooden stakes are driven into the ground. Shields are pulled together with metal wire ties. In order for the foundation to be of the same thickness, wooden spacers of the same size are installed between the shields. During the pouring of the mixture, they are pulled out.
If there is a need to reinforce the base, the mixture must be compacted with vibrators. If there is no vibrator, replace them with steel peaks from reinforcement. The concrete mixture during pouring is “bayoneted” in layers of approximately 200 mm.
The formwork is allowed to be removed on the third day. And to do laying not earlier than in 2-3 weeks. The concrete mixture fully hardens after 30 days, and gains maximum strength after 21 days.
Step-by-step instructions for building a strip foundation in 14 steps:
- Mark the boundaries of the site with pegs and stretch a rope or steel wire along the outer border of the foundation. This will be the markup.
- Dig a trench to the depth of soil freezing along the calculated width. If necessary, backfill with crushed stone or gravel with tamping for drainage. This is done to drain groundwater.
- Make a markup for the pillars and install them.
- If the soils are clayey and there is a risk of subsidence of the foundation body, install several bars of reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm or more at the very bottom.
- Place small stones under the reinforcement. It must be completely absorbed by the concrete.
- Drive stakes into the sides of the excavated trench to the width of the foundation.
- Install the formwork from boards with a minimum thickness of 25 mm. Display the mark of the upper plane of the foundation and stretch the wire inside the formwork. This will be the top level of the concreting.
- For a constant width of the concrete foundation, make spacers of the same length and install between the boards. During concreting, they will need to be pulled out.
- To prevent the body of the foundation from bursting, tighten the formwork with wire ties.
- Install the poles vertically and secure them in place. In order to install all the posts evenly, stretch the wire between the extreme posts.
- Pour the concrete into the formwork. Compact the concrete in layers every 200 mm.
- Align the top layer.
- Wait at least a week and remove the formwork.
- After three weeks, laying on a concrete base is allowed.
Video: Foundation for a fence with brick posts
Video: Technology for building foundations for heavy fences
Four smart tips:
- Do not take breaks in work while pouring concrete. If such a break cannot be eliminated, do not be too lazy to close the seam with wet rags and wrap it with polyethylene to reduce water evaporation.
- If there is a threat of night frost, use plasticizers.
- Remember that even 2-3 cm of sawdust will protect concrete from the damaging effects of freezing temperatures.
- There are cases when it is necessary to finish the work ahead of the time set for concrete hardening. In this case, use concrete hardening accelerators. If there is no way to buy hardening accelerators, use baking soda for this purpose.
If you want to protect your site from neighbors, passers-by and to ensure the safety of private property, use fences. But in order for the fence to be reliable and durable, it is necessary to create a strong foundation. This raises the question - how to fill the foundation under the fence and what are the basic rules for performing this operation. The requirements that arise for the base of the fence are the same as for living quarters, resistance to destruction and the ability to support the weight of the structure.
Types of foundation for fences
The most reliable fences are made of iron rods bricks or concrete slabs, due to which the weight becomes quite large. This does not allow the use of shallow or shallow foundations, due to the insecurity of the possibility of collapses.
When choosing the type of foundation, it is worth considering the bearing capacity of the soil and the level of groundwater. At the same time, it is important what buildings or roads are nearby. Without high-quality geological exploration, calculation and drawing up a construction plan, a heavy fence is a danger not only to owners, but also to passers-by.
There are 4 types of foundation for the fence:
- tape;
- stone;
- columnar;
- column-tape (mixed).
Tape evenly distributes the load from the fence to the soil and is used for heavy fences. With a foundation height of 50 cm or more, its ground part is only 10 cm, and the rest is placed in the ground. To create a strip foundation, bricks, monolithic blocks or pouring concrete are used.
The stone foundation uses large stones of various sizes and cement. This is a fairly durable way to fence. It is not susceptible to damage, does not require special care.
The columnar foundation is used for light fences due to the fact that the load on the soil is transferred pointwise. It is built of stones, bricks, piles or poured with concrete, easy to prepare and erect.
Column-tape. With this type of foundation, the main load goes to the pillars, and thanks to the tape base poured from above, it is distributed evenly. In this foundation, the strip base is deepened by a maximum of 20 cm. It is built from reinforced concrete or metal piles, which are strengthened from above with cement mortar.
Foundation reinforcement
Any foundation, except for the pile type, can be strengthened by digging special supports into the ground. Such supports can be made of special wood, pipes and other materials that add rigidity to the base. This method is very popular for creating a tape base. The supports after special treatment are buried up to 2 m into the ground, in increments of 2–3 m.
If the fence is planned from corrugated board, then strengthening the foundation is mandatory. Pipes will not only fasten the foundation, but also hold the fence sheets on themselves.
Before applying an anti-corrosion compound to metal amplifiers, it is necessary to clean them of rust or any other contaminants. If metal pipes are used, then they must not only be covered with moisture-resistant compounds on the outside, but also inside. Another option for protecting against moisture contained in binder solutions is the installation of caps at the ends of the pipes.
Preparatory work
To fill the foundation for the fence, it is necessary to purchase materials and tools, as well as to prepare the territory, depending on the chosen foundation. The main thing is to have a construction plan with accurate calculations that will facilitate construction work, and save money on buying and redoing mistakes.
Tools and materials:
- Bulgarian;
- cement M400;
- reinforcement with a diameter of 0.8 mm;
- welding machine or knitting wire for fittings;
- metal poles, with a diameter of 5 cm or more, to strengthen the poles;
- profiled pipes for a fence from a profiled sheet;
- boards or other formwork materials;
- roulette;
- pegs, for marking the territory;
- rope, creates boundaries earthworks, the ends are tied around the pegs;
- level, to check horizontality;
- a concrete mixer, or a construction mixer with a container for creating a solution;
- shovels, if the trench or pit will be created manually.
The construction of the foundation begins with the markup. For this purpose, pegs are installed around the perimeter of the future foundation, four for each wall, and a rope is pulled between them. You should get a rectangle of rope. In order for the rope not to sag, additional pegs are installed. For a columnar foundation, mark the position of the pillars by placing stakes at their corners, and fastening the ropes across the previous one to make a square the size of the future pillar.
For the strip foundation, an indent is made on each side of the border by 30 cm for mounting the formwork. If the foundation is of a mixed type, then the trench between the pits for future pillars is 30-40 cm deep.
If a brick foundation will be used, then at least 2 m of free space must be provided. This is also necessary for a columnar foundation made of bricks.
If the fence is built on a slope, then it must be borne in mind that the bottom of the trench must be stepped, and the base will consist of several sections. The bottom of each fragment must be absolutely flat, and to prevent slipping, the edges of adjacent sections are connected by poles.
Creating a tape type foundation
Crushed stone from 10 cm is laid at the bottom of the trench, after which it must be leveled. 5 cm of sand is poured on top of the gravel, and compacted. After that, you can proceed to the installation of formwork. The best way for concreting under the fence, this is a removable formwork made of boards. They are strong enough and cheap enough for private construction. First you need to mount the boards in the shields, which will be the walls of the formwork, then lower them into the trench and install the jumpers so that the foundation is the same width. Creation of stops in the walls of the trench along the entire length of the formwork.
Before pouring concrete, it is necessary to create reinforcement. The fittings can be welded or tied with wire, this does not particularly affect the result. The finished reinforcement should contain 4 horizontal rods, 2 from the bottom and top, as well as vertical rods, in 20 cm increments. The reinforcement should be 1.5-2 cm smaller than the future foundation so that the concrete completely covers it to prevent contact with moisture . In place of the future gate or gate, a grillage is welded on top of the reinforcement to enhance the bearing capacity.
How to properly fill the strip foundation under the fence, you can see the video
To prevent seepage of "concrete milk" into the ground, a dense film or waterproofing is laid on the bottom of the formwork, depending on the funds allocated for construction. If this is not done, the base may be brittle and prone to cracks. With a small budget and the inability to use insulation, the trench is moistened with water so that the earth does not pull it from the foundation. However, due to the drying time of the concrete mixture, this method is still less reliable.
Foundation pouring
The mixture for the foundation is created in proportions of 4: 2: 1, sand, crushed stone and cement, respectively. For a homogeneous consistency, it is necessary to start mixing with cement and water, after obtaining a homogeneous composition, sand is gradually added, and then crushed stone. If the foundation is not sectional, then it is advisable to pour the mixture within 1 day. Concrete is poured into the formwork by 5–10 cm, after which reinforcement is installed, and pouring continues. It is better to fix the reinforcement at the top until the concrete mixture reaches its top, this will prevent possible distortions that can occur due to the heterogeneity of the concrete during pouring.
With a stepped foundation, the same is done only in sections, and the reinforcement on the edge of the bottom protrudes so as to be a continuation of the top reinforcement. After the lower reinforcement hardens, the formwork of the upper section and the connecting column is mounted and the pouring is repeated. Thanks to this design, uniformity of the foundation is achieved, which prevents possible landslides of the fence.
Before proceeding with the construction of the fence, as in the foundation of the house, it is necessary to lay insulating material. The most affordable is roofing material.
The difference between pouring a columnar base and a tape base is only in the final result. In a mixed base, a grillage is welded onto the reinforcement of the pillars, and then the tape part of the base is poured.
When pouring the base, it must be remembered that it must fulfill its functions for at least 10 years. A properly erected base will not require repair for a long time, it will allow you to install a heavy fence and gates that protect privacy from prying eyes.
In the process of preparing for the independent construction of the fence, you need to purchase not only high-quality materials for its arrangement, but also create a reliable, most durable and durable foundation for installing the fence.
The service life of the fence and its main characteristics largely depend on the quality of the foundation. There are several types of fence bases. With the device of each of them you can handle yourself. It is only necessary to familiarize yourself with the features of the existing options and choose the appropriate type of foundation.
Currently, several main types of foundations are successfully used for installing fences. When choosing a particular type of foundation, a number of factors must be taken into account, the most important of which are the following points:
The most optimal design option for self-construction is strip-column base. This design perfectly withstands the loads created by most types of existing fences.
Peculiarities
It is a combined option. A concrete tape is being prepared with pre-arranged holes for placing supports. When choosing the width of the foundation tape and the optimal diameter of the supports, it is necessary to take into account the height and total mass of the fence.
To achieve maximum reliability and the required stability of the structure, the tape and poles in without fail reinforced. Thanks to the reinforcement, the load will be distributed as evenly as possible throughout the structure.
The combined foundation can withstand the weight of a wooden and brick fence, as well as corrugated fencing without any problems.
For pouring, the most common concrete is used. In general, there are no problems with the foundation device.
Arrangement
First step. Prepare your markup. Install wooden or metal pegs around the entire perimeter of the future structure. Stretch any rope between the pegs. This markup will help you better navigate in the process of performing further work.
Second step. According to the marking, dig a hole with a width corresponding to the width of the concrete tape you are pouring and a depth of about 50 cm.
Third step. In the trench, prepare recesses for placing support posts. The depth of the pits should be at least 80 cm, the step between the posts should be 100-250 cm.
It is difficult to give specific values \u200b\u200bof the depth and distance between the supports, because these parameters must be selected individually in accordance with the type of soil and the weight of the future fence. The heavier the fence, the deeper the holes should be and the smaller the distance between the supports should be.
Pits can be made using an ordinary drill or other convenient devices.
Fourth step. Install the formwork around the perimeter of the future foundation. It will simultaneously prevent the collapse of the earth and allow you to navigate at the stage of pouring the foundation.
Fifth step. Fill the bottom of each pit with a pillow of roofing material folded a couple of times and lower the support posts into the pits. The supports must be additionally driven into the ground up to about 200 mm. Tie up the posts with reinforcing bars at a depth of about 10 cm below ground level. Also, reinforcement in the form of a grid must be launched throughout foundation tape. Tie the mesh yourself from 8 mm rods.
Sixth step. Start pouring the foundation. Pour concrete in horizontal layers, slowly and evenly, so that no voids appear that can reduce the strength of the structure.
The fill will dry for 3-5 weeks. In hot weather, water the concrete. The formwork can be removed about two weeks after the concrete is poured, but it is better to do this after the foundation has completely hardened and gained strength.
This design will serve as long as possible, enduring even the heaviest loads.
columnar base
Peculiarities
The arrangement of such a foundation does not require special skills and labor costs - it is enough to dig the required number of holes, install support pillars in them and fill the holes with concrete.
Among the advantages of such a foundation, it should be noted the ease of construction and affordable cost. Pillar foundations best suited for light fences made of wooden boards, metal mesh, corrugated board.
Arrangement
First step. Take a garden drill and prepare holes around the perimeter of the future fence. There will be enough holes with a depth of about 1-1.5 m. The diameter of the recess should exceed the diameter of the supporting pillars by about 20-25 cm. Place the holes in increments of about 2 m. In general, be guided by the characteristics of the soil and the weight of the future fence. Recommendations in this regard were given in the section on the strip-column base.
Second step. Backfill the bottom of the pits with about 20cm of sand and gravel and compact the backfill.
Third step. Install the posts in the holes, level them to the same level and fill the space around the posts with concrete mortar.
It will take you several times to build such a foundation. less money compared to the previous type of foundation, because here you can save on the amount of concrete, reinforcing bars and formwork.
Tape base
Peculiarities
Non-buried reinforced concrete foundation. For pouring, two hundredth concrete will be enough, it can be higher. Pre-prepare reinforcing bars with a diameter of 8-10 mm, formwork material (boards, shields or plywood), coarse sand.
The tape can have different thicknesses. If you are equipping a heavy welded metal fence, deepen the tape by 80-100 cm. For light fences, a 50-centimeter depth will be enough.
Arrangement
First step. Dig a trench about 80 cm deep and 30-100 cm wide, depending on the features of the future fence.
Second step. Backfill the bottom of the trench with a 15 cm layer of sand and gravel and carefully tamp the backfill.
Third step. Lay the reinforcing mesh, stepping back about 10 cm from the walls of the pit and about 7 cm from its bottom.
Fourth step. Install and secure formwork.
Fifth step. Fill the trench with concrete. Leave the foundation to dry and gain strength for 1-1.5 months.
Such a foundation is optimally suited for the installation of heavy and large fences. A trench is dug, a layer of gravel is poured, compacted, after which the foundation is poured in layers.
In addition, each layer of concrete is subject to mandatory compaction. Supports for a protection are established directly on the filled in basis. They are not used for profiled sheet fences due to the inappropriateness of such a solution - there are simpler and more budget options.
stone base
Peculiarities
For the arrangement of such a foundation, stones of various sizes and shapes are used. Stone foundations are considered the most reliable and durable. They are mainly used in the arrangement of stone fences or expensive forged fences.
The construction of a stone foundation requires significant financial investments. You can additionally save by refusing the services of third-party specialists and doing all the relevant activities yourself.
Arrangement
First step. Dig a trench. Select the dimensions of the pit individually in accordance with the features of the future fence.
Second step. Fill the bottom of the trench with a layer of gravel and carefully tamp the backfill.
Third step. Start laying rocks. First place large elements, the gaps between them can be filled with smaller stones. Additionally, fasten all elements with cement mortar. In total, the solution should account for at least 15% of the total volume of the base.
Thus, for the construction of the fence, you can use a variety of foundations. The most popular are columnar and tape-columnar (or simply tape) bases. With their arrangement, there will be no particular difficulties even for an unprepared home master.
Remember: the foundation is the most important building element. It is the foundation that sets the direction for further stages of work. The durability, integrity, reliability and, in general, the quality of the entire building directly depend on the literacy of the foundation. Therefore, be careful at each stage and follow the instructions in everything.
Successful work!
Video - Do-it-yourself foundation for a fence
When deciding to build a fence, you should think in advance about the need for a foundation for it. Under massive permanent structures, it is mandatory, and in order to get a reliable foundation for the fence, it is important to take into account many factors.
In this article, we will analyze what bases are suitable for different fences, how they are made, and more.
A well-built foundation is a guarantee of a long service life of the entire structure, protection from the negative effects of the external environment.
It is needed to support the fence, to give the structure stability, rigidity.
Functions performed:
- Uniform load distribution along the entire length of the fence. Due to this, even over time, the fence will not begin to sag.
- Protection against soil erosion, flooding. The base does not allow the soil to be washed out from under the fence, and when the snow melts in spring, it retains water and prevents it from getting under the structure.
- Building maintenance. The foundation protects against deformation, subsidence, premature damage to pillars or materials.
- Adding aesthetics. The fence with the base looks neater and more beautiful.
In order for the fence to last as long as possible without the need for repair, it is necessary to make it a solid foundation.
What to consider when choosing a foundation
There are several key factors:
- features of the relief of the site and the type of soil;
- depth, groundwater level;
- the presence of a nearby reservoir, underground sources;
- weight of the future fence;
- how far is the road, railway;
- the expected level of soil subsidence during temperature and humidity changes.
It will be useful to talk with the owners of neighboring plots who have already erected a fence, to find out the real situation, to get practical recommendations.
What fences do not need a base
This stage of work is not necessary if the fence is installed temporarily: to delineate the boundaries construction sites, during renovation or if a massive permanent fence is planned for the site in the future.
Many types of light fences are erected without a foundation, for example, from chain-link mesh, welded products, wooden boards, picket fence, corrugated board. The pillars simply drive in the ground, tamp or partially concrete.
The butting of supports shows itself perfectly on heaving soils with high groundwater levels. In spring, in winter they are not squeezed out of the ground.
Article:
Types of foundations suitable for fences
Tape
Suitable for arrangement on sandy, swampy, unstable soils. Prevents displacement, deformation of the structure.
It should be used under fences made of brick, wood, stone, corrugated board, with forged structures, from blocks.
Photo: finished formwork with reinforcement and guides for laying bricks
The thickness of the tape is selected based on the intake material. For wooden, sections of corrugated board, an indicator of 50 cm is enough. Under brickwork, forged or welded spans, the thickness is increased to 80 – 100 cm.
It is done along the entire length of the future structure.
Among the advantages are:
- high strength, which means durability;
- reliability;
- the possibility of amplification reinforcing cage, pipes, which gives the supports more stability;
- all the work can be done by yourself;
- no need to involve special equipment.
The obvious disadvantage is the high consumption of materials, in particular concrete, which leads to an increase in the cost of construction.
Scheme of installation of a fence from a metal profile on a strip foundation.
There are several types of tape:
- From reinforced concrete. Suitable for sandy soils. Formwork is erected along the perimeter of the prepared trench. Gather metal carcass from wire, which performs the function of reinforcement. They lay it in a trench and fill it to the top with a mixture of cement, sand, gravel.
- From rubble concrete. Used on stony soils. The technology is similar to the first type, with the exception of the use of large stones, cobblestones.
- From brick. You need to take a full-bodied ceramic or fireclay look. White silicate is not suitable, because under the influence of moisture it will begin to crumble quickly. Otherwise, the procedure is similar to the previous types.
Reinforced tape is much more reliable, more durable than just concrete. Wire rods increase the adhesion of the material, resistance to external influences.
Thematic material:
- Self-construction of a strip foundation for a gazebo
Columnar
Scheme on a columnar base
Designed for lightweight fences from:
- profiled sheet;
- polycarbonate;
- metal meshes (chain-links, welded);
- wooden boards, picket fence;
- siding.
This is the best type of foundation for heaving soils.
It differs from the tape in that it is not necessary to dig a trench. Each support is individually fixed in the soil.
An important condition is that the depth should be below the freezing level of the ground.
Advantage - minimum flow materials, which reduces construction costs.
It is convenient to make holes for poles with a garden drill. If this is not the case, you can take a bayonet shovel. The depth is determined by the features of the relief of the site and ranges from 1 to 1.5 m. The hole must be at least 20 cm larger than the diameter of the column. The step between the supports depends on the width of the span, but often does not exceed 2–2.5 m.
The further installation procedure for poles made of different materials may vary slightly.
For brick, it is the most laborious. A metal pipe is placed in the center of the pit, which is lined with bricks. The inner cavity is filled with concrete. The evenness of the fixation is checked with a building level.
A popular type of racks is profile pipes. There are different ways to fix them in the ground:
- bottled;
- partial or full concreting;
- concreting of the well below the freezing level of the soil.
Tape-columnar (combined)
The most durable base for heavy fences made of brick, stone, forged and gabions. It is used in areas located on slopes, soils with increased heaving and in difficult climatic conditions.
It got the name combined, because it is a concrete tape, in which there are separate extensions for supports.
Before construction, special attention should be paid to the pillars. Treat metal from corrosion, coat wooden with bitumen.
Regardless of the material of the supports, it is better to wrap them in roofing material before installation to protect them from excessive moisture.
The rest of the construction order is as follows:
- A trench is being dug. The depth of the foundation is determined by the type of soil, but it must be at least 50 cm. The length and width are taken in accordance with the previously developed scheme.
- Inside the trench, pits are made for poles with a width of 40 cm and a depth of 1.5 m. The step between them is from 2 to 3 m.
- Pillars are fixed in the recesses. Spacers can be installed if necessary.
- To increase strength, reinforcement is laid around the supports and around the perimeter of the entire trench. It is better to tie it so that a continuous frame is formed.
- Concrete is poured into the recesses under the pillars.
- Along the perimeter of the trench, formwork made of wooden boards is knocked down.
- The solution is poured to the initial surface of the soil.
The reinforcement stage should be approached responsibly, since a properly assembled metal frame will protect the fence from subsidence for a long time.
Screw
Screw piles are recommended to be installed in regions with difficult heaving soils, which expand and rise in severe frosts. Such soil gradually pushes out the posts, which leads to deformation of the fences. Suitable pile foundation sloped areas.
In appearance, these are metal pipes with a blade at one end. This element serves as an anchor, thanks to which the piles are securely attached to the ground.
3D model of a brick fence on screw piles
Installation is carried out below the freezing point of the soil. It will not work to build such a foundation yourself, since you will need special equipment and knowledge of all the nuances of installation. The sizes of piles are different, but often manufacturers make them to order.
Stone (rubble)
Settles on stable soils. Use it on clay soil it’s not worth it, when the layers of the earth slide, it will begin to deform.
It goes well with a beautiful wrought iron or stone fence. Worth a lot. Creation is not for beginners. To form the foundation structure, you will have to involve a specialist. In the process of masonry, stones of different sizes and shapes are taken.
Subject to the construction technology, this is the most durable and reliable foundation.
Masonry is carried out on a dry or liquid mortar.
Among the nuances of arrangement note that:
- Precise joining of stones is required. They should fit snugly against each other, so you will need to stock up on a large number of cobblestones of different sizes to find the right ones.
- The texture of the stones that are inside the base is not important. Attention is paid to the outer part of the structure.
- The voids around large stones are filled with small ones.
- The type of solution is determined by the master, but it is noticed that the dry mixture lasts longer than the liquid one.
On a gravel pad (monolithic)
Reinforced version of the concrete tape. It is used for massive structures made of brick, concrete, forged spans, gates.
Feature - layer-by-layer laying of gravel and sand in a trench. For reliability, the use of buta is allowed.
Work order:
The gravel pad performs a drainage function, preventing groundwater from affecting the structure.
Block (torn stone, besser)
A type of strip foundation. For creation, reinforced concrete, sulfur-free blocks, from torn stone are used.
Besser is a relatively new type of block. It is made by pressing cement and sand. Perfectly imitates natural stone. Supplied in many shades.
It looks good with a fence made of bricks, corrugated board, natural stone, with forging.
The width of the trench should be taken equal to the width of two blocks.
The further order of work is as follows:
Determine the depth of the foundation
The key factors influencing this indicator are the type of soil, the topography of the site.
Clay, sandy, sandy loamy soil is considered soft, while shale, rocky soil is considered hard.
To accurately determine the desired depth, it is important to take into account the slope of the estate. If there are large differences in elevation at the installation site of the fence, then the depth of the foundation is made different in separate areas.
A monolithic tape is suitable here, for even installation of which beacons are exposed. It is better to fill sections with different heights separately and make sure that the upper level of the base protrudes at least 10 cm above the ground.
On hard soils, the depth of the trench can be reduced by 10–20 cm from the usual value.
In the case of loose earth, a high level of groundwater, the depth is increased by 15–30 cm. This will be a good protection against foundation subsidence.
Left. Wrong way to bookmark. The foundation, laid above the freezing level of the soil, is pushed out by the swelling forces, raising it to a height A. On right. The right way, the foundation is laid below the level of soil freezing, does not experience the pressure of frozen soil. A is the pressure of the foundation on the soil; B - soil resistance; B - buoyant forces of swelling of the soil; Г - tangential lateral forces; GWL - groundwater level; UGP - the level of soil freezing.
On clay soil, pit trenches are made at least 15 cm below the freezing point. Due to this, the fence will not be damaged by the heaving of the soil.
With a high level of soil freezing (over 2 m), it is recommended to additionally build around the fence drainage system which lowers the groundwater level.
Experienced builders, when planning the installation of a permanent fence, recommend not to abandon the foundation. Even in the version of a lightweight fence, this is an excellent protection against deformation, environmental influences and a guarantee of a long service life.
Today, corrugated fences are practically the most common, due to relatively simple installation, durability, aesthetics and a variety of colors and shapes. Sheets are made of galvanized steel by cold rolling and painted. Sheet sizes vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most common has a width of 1150 mm, a useful width of 1100 mm, as it is mounted "overlap". For fences, ordinary corrugated board marked C10 and more rigid C21 are used, but the main thing is to choose the right foundation for a corrugated fence.
A strong foundation is the key to the longevity of any fence
Types of foundation for the fence
The main factors in choosing a foundation are:
Groundwater level in the work area. The closer they are to the surface, the more thoroughly you will have to build.
Calculation of the "sail" sheets.
Soil type. The softer and wetter the soil, the deeper you need to lay the foundation.
Close to busy highways and railways. Heavy transport causes vibrations in the soil, as a result of which the fence collapses.
Just poles driven into the ground will soon go downhill
There are several types of foundation:
Columnar. This is the simplest and easiest look to do. Its essence is that holes of the required depth are made with a hole drill, into which the vertical supports of the fence are hammered and the cavity is concreted.
Tape. When constructing the foundation, a trench is dug, the cavity is reinforced, vertical supports are installed, and concrete is poured.
Ribbon-columnar. This combined type of foundation, in which a trench is dug between the pillars and poured with concrete after reinforcement. Pillars can be either monolithic or made of brick or cinder block. For greater aesthetics, you can finish with a facing stone.
Stone. The most expensive and labor-intensive type of fence, but the most reliable. The foundation is laid out from rubble stone and poured with concrete, having previously inserted supports. You can also lay out the columns of the future fence from stone.
The most common, reliable and durable fence made of corrugated board on a strip foundation is rightfully considered. It is the strip foundation that is most suitable for this fence.
Strip foundation will not only serve for a long time, but will also prevent drains from pouring into the yard after rain and snow
On our website you can find contacts construction companies that offer a fence construction service. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".
Stages of construction of a strip foundation and installation of a fence
Marking and digging a trench
The first step is to mark the location of the fence so that it does not go beyond your land plot, since after the construction of the foundation it will already be problematic to transfer it.
For marking around the perimeter, pegs are hammered and strong twine is pulled. Next, you need to remove plants and shrubs along the entire length. After that, the installation locations of the pillars are determined. To do this, measure the same distances from the corners with a tape measure, depending on the factors that were indicated above. It is necessary to take into account the length of the gate and gate.
Next, a trench is excavated 30-40 cm wide and 70-80 cm deep from the ground. This is done with a narrow bucket excavator or manually. It all depends on the type of soil and the desired speed of construction. In the presence of rocky soils, a hydraulic hammer is used or, in the manual version, a jackhammer is used. In this case, the depth of trenches in such hard formations can be reduced.
Then a sandy “cushion” is made with a layer of 10-20 cm. It must be compacted. It will serve as the base of our foundation and provide the necessary drainage.
With uneven terrain, it should be borne in mind that one section of the fence should be at the same level. In such cases, the fence is made "steps".
One of the ways to plan the architecture of the fence with uneven landscape
Formwork installation
When arranging the formwork, its assembly is carried out 20-30 cm above the ground. It can be made from boards, metal sheets, plywood or professional formwork plywood, which will allow it to be easily separated when the concrete dries.
The uneven terrain adds to the difficulty in installing the formwork to make the foundation for the corrugated fence. Since one section will have one elevation mark, it is necessary to install the formwork at the planned height. Sections in this case are separated from each other using the same formwork. In this case, each compartment will be filled with concrete in stages in the future. Naturally, the reinforcement of concrete will be somewhat more complicated than with a flat surface.
Formwork assembly and reinforcement for the future foundation
Installation of supports and reinforcement
The next stage is to install vertical supports for the future fence. Usually a steel corner or a square profile of 30-40 mm is selected. To increase the service life of the supports and longitudinal logs, it is necessary to prime and paint, after cleaning out the centers of corrosion, if any.
Video description
Fence supports can be as shown in this video:
The supports are driven into a trench at a distance of 2–3 meters and to a depth of at least 20–30 cm. In the presence of rocks, a hole is hollowed out under each support, which, after the installation of the support, is either separately concreted or covered with soil and compacted. In this case, it is necessary to install props to ensure their verticality before pouring concrete. The distance between the supports is selected depending on the area of \u200b\u200bwork and the height of the fence itself. Usually it is 2.5 - 3 meters. In windy areas, such a fence works like a sail and at large lengths there will be a high probability that the sheets will deform or even be torn from their attachment points.
To increase reliability, reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm is welded between the supports in the trench. At great depths, several such bonding joints should be made at different levels.
Reinforcement is also carried out using reinforcement 8-12 mm. Since the foundation carries practically no load, except for the lateral one, a special approach is not required. It is required mainly to ensure the integrity of the structure. Segments of reinforcement are driven in between the supports and along, knitting wire 2-4 rows of reinforcement are imposed, depending on the depth of the trench. For even more reinforcement, crossbars are imposed. It must be taken into account that the reinforcement should be at a distance of 2-3 cm from the edge of the formwork.
Reinforcing bars should not touch the formwork boards
Concrete work: foundation settling and stripping
Next, it is necessary to fill the trench to the desired formwork level with concrete or mortar using at least 200 grade cement. As the concrete dries, it must be watered. During the first two or three days, it is desirable to do this every 3-4 hours. Watering will avoid the appearance of cracks. Further, less often. The formwork of the foundation is carried out depending on the temperature conditions when concrete reaches 70% strength, which is 2-4 days. When using additives that accelerate the hardening, it is possible to remove the formwork even after a day. However, the installation of the fence should be started no earlier than 7 days.
Installation of longitudinal profiles and fastening of corrugated sheets
This stage involves welding the profiles between the fence supports. It can be made both from a corner of 2-3 cm, and from a "P" shaped or square profile. This uses several types of connection, as shown in the figure. If painting is not done beforehand, then after welding it is necessary to paint the frame of the future fence. Especially when painting, attention should be paid to welds, since it is there that corrosion most often occurs.
The fastening of the corrugated board in relation to the pillars is carried out in three ways
After that, the corrugated board is installed using self-tapping screws with rubber gaskets to avoid damage to the sheets and the occurrence of rust at the attachment points. The distance between the fasteners depends on the size of the sheet.
To improve the appearance, the foundation can be finished with tiles, facing bricks or stone, simply plastered and painted.
Video description
An overview of the process of creating a foundation and mounting a mono fence can be seen in the video:
Common building mistakes
Insufficient depth of laying the foundation, as a result of which the fence can “float”, warp and burst. This is especially true for wetlands with a close occurrence of groundwater (near reservoirs, ponds, etc.).