Frame extension to the house: how to make a wall "pie" and how to legitimize the building. Options for making extensions to a wooden house
When, for any reason, there is a need to increase living space country house, then the simplest and at the same time economical way to do this is the construction of a frame extension to the house. Its main advantage lies in the fact that it can be erected on its own in the shortest possible time and at the same time no serious skills in using a carpentry tool will be needed.
In order for the building to turn out not only useful, but also beautiful, it is best to familiarize yourself in advance with how it should be built.
The purpose of the extension
To avoid the transformation of the extension in the future, it is advisable to carefully consider all the details of the structure being erected during planning. First of all, it is important to determine which special purpose do-it-yourself extension to the house.
The first and most common option is an additional room. In fact, building another room according to the scheme will be similar to building a house with a small area. The main thing is not to forget each of the structures of the new structure to be properly insulated so that the room is heated efficiently and in the future it is easy to simply avoid heat loss.
This is not the moment on which you can save, as well as on the insulation of the foundation and the implementation of waterproofing, because otherwise mold will form on the walls and dampness will make it simply impossible even for a short stay in the room.
The second option is a bathroom or kitchen. After looking at the photo of the extension to the house, you probably already understood that in this case the main thing is to bring all the necessary engineering communications in advance before starting the construction of the foundation.
It is also imperative to insulate well the places where sewer and water pipes pass through the foundation. An important point: in order to save Money, it is better to carry out all the work during construction.
Another popular option for an extension is a veranda. It can be open or glazed. Most often used for summer holidays. Due to the fact that usually the building is not additionally heated, the structure is quite easy in terms of construction.
All that is needed is a supported roof and decking with walls. When building a veranda, an important point is that it must be combined in size, materials used for construction and style with the house.
What material to choose for the walls of the annex?
Having thought about how to make an extension, first of all, you need to think about what materials for the walls will be used. With panel or frame technology usually it's a sandwich:
- Windscreen, i.e. outer waterproofing film
- Stone wool or expanded polystyrene laid between OSB sheets
- Vapor barrier membrane for internal protection
If you are interested in expensive methods, then you can perform masonry from any lightweight blocks. It can be foam or aerated concrete. When purchasing foam concrete blocks for a developer without any construction practice, it is worth considering that this material has its own characteristics:
Firstly, in almost 90% of cases, even the walls made today of the most expensive foam concrete in the future will be covered with a large number of small cracks.
Secondly, all facades will need to be plastering with the help of pre-selected compositions directly on the grid.
When choosing walls from various foamed concrete, it is worth paying attention to the fact that for any roofing material, such as ceramic / slate tiles, they are all not strong enough. For this reason, the ideal option for sheltering a building is corrugated board or ondulin.
An extension made of high-quality SIP panels
Today one of the most budget options self-construction is an extension to the house, made of popular SIP panels, which have standard sizes. During construction, a number of nuances should be taken into account.
Everything screw piles with a wooden grillage, that is, the timber is always fixed in the heads specially designated for this with the help of large nails.
It is stipulated that all communications must be necessarily removed inside the panels, that is, the wiring of engineering systems here is of a hidden type.
Due to the fact that the lathing of the roof and floors are made of the same material, an equal resource is provided for all load-bearing structures.
There are no cold bridges, which guarantees a rational arrangement of the entire heating circuit in the future extension.
Since this material is self-supporting and structural according to the description, the beam that is used to perform their mandatory joining does not serve power frame at home. It will be possible to achieve the strength and absolute rigidity of the completed structure only after installing the last of the panels.
In conclusion, it is worth noting that extensions consisting of several floors are rarely found, so, as a rule, a minimum amount of sawn timber is spent on homemade forests.
And in conclusion, an important point: it is best to legitimize an extension to your house in advance in order to avoid unwanted dismantling in the future if the decision of the relevant authorities suddenly turns out to be not positive.
Photo of an extension to the house
Decide housing issue having your own private house is much easier than in a city apartment. The best option is to make an extension that can be used for a variety of purposes:
- full-fledged living quarters- additional room;
- living space with an attic (if the extension is two-story);
- utility room - your own pantry, which can largely replace the cellar;
- a spacious terrace or veranda where you can spend your vacation with the whole family;
- garage for cars.
Below will be considered the basics of technology and step-by-step instruction creation of an extension to wooden house.
Before choosing a specific building material and technology for the construction of an extension, it is important to clearly define the purpose of the premises. It may be worthwhile to immediately plan the creation of an extension in which it will be possible to live year-round - in case of an expansion of the family or the arrival of a large number of guests.
Types of outbuildings
There are several types of annexes to a wooden house. They differ in material and installation features:
- frame extensions;
- from a cylindrical bar;
- brick;
- from cinder block.
Before erecting a structure, it is important to take into account all the nuances that can affect the choice of materials and a specific type of extension:
![](https://i0.wp.com/v-teplo.ru/img/post/441-pristroika-k-domu/image2.jpg)
To make the right choice of a specific extension project means to correctly correlate the purpose of this structure, the characteristics of the house to which it is attached, with the technology and material of manufacture. For this, it is important to understand how each type of such structures is erected.
DIY frame extension: step-by-step instructions and video
The frame extension has a number of advantages:
- the design is quite simple, and if everything is calculated correctly, it is quite possible to do it yourself;
- it is being built much faster than brick, cinder block structures;
- the design is quite light in weight and does not require much effort during operation;
- in terms of thermal insulation, durability and other consumer qualities, the frame extension to the house is not inferior to others types of structures.
NOTE. If you intend to build a two-story extension, it is worth considering this particular option - the structure is light and will not create excessive pressure on the ground, so the risks of subsidence are noticeably reduced.
Preparation for construction
At the preparatory stage, it is important to solve the following tasks:
- What will be the material of the frame - wooden beams or metal profiles.
- What type of extension will be associated with the main building.
- Calculate all dimensions of the structure accurately and develop a detailed drawing.
- Collect all necessary materials and tools.
First of all, it is important to decide on what type the structure will be built - as a continuation of the house with an increase in the main roof for the installation of a single roof, or as an adjoining building.
It is clear that the second case will be cheaper, easier and faster - the extension will simply be adjacent to the wall. You can make access from the house directly into it if you make an appropriate hole and put a door.
The diagram of the structure adjoining the house is presented below.
Structurally, such a solution is a roof placed on supports. The roof is made of rafters and support boards as standard. For a longer service life, it is advisable to insulate it, lay out a layer of waterproofing. As a rule, it is based on a conventional strip foundation.
Pairing with the main part of the house occurs at 2 points:
- wall;
- roof.
The connection in each of them has its own characteristics, which will be described below. A preliminary sketch of the extension, as well as practical advice to consider before starting work:
At the same time, for the roof of the extension, it is better to choose a material that is elastic enough to make the necessary corrections. You can purchase corrugated board (height within 1 cm) or soft tiles.
In this sense, slate or traditional ceramic tiles, metal tiles will not work.
The frame is made of wood or metal. Moreover, all parts should consist of only one type of material - then the extension turns out to be more reliable and lasts longer.
NOTE. Even if the house is in good condition, but old enough, the rate of its subsidence will be several times higher than that of the extension. Accordingly, it is better not to use a rigid type of abutment of the structure to the main wall. In this case, another type of installation is used - "groove-comb".
As for the tools, no special equipment is required: it is important to have a screwdriver, a saw, pliers, a building level and other devices for working on wood.
Installation work must be carried out by at least two people - some stages will require conscientious efforts.
Laying the foundation
The first stage of work is laying the foundation. Since, in the overwhelming majority of cases, the construction of a foundation for an extension is not provided for during the construction of a house, the foundation must not only be correctly laid, but also reliably connected to the main foundation.
NOTE. If you are planning the construction of a newly erected house, it is better to take into account the extension right away. It can be made after a while, and laying the foundation along with the base of the main building is a technically correct option. In this case, the house and the extension will be a single whole, which will ensure their reliability.
The main requirements for the base of the extension are as follows:
- reliability - stable maintenance of the weight of the structure without subsidence: especially important for outbuildings made of heavy materials or two-story structures;
- maximum identity with the main foundation in terms of material and depth of laying;
- the most complete adhesion to the main foundation.
Most often, strip foundations are chosen for the extension, since they are quite capable of cope with such loads. Moreover, the installation features always depend on the type of soil. You can lay monolithic foundations, made of bricks or concrete blocks, fill them with drainage materials.
The schematic diagrams of the bases are shown in the figure.
Construction technology strip foundation for an extension does not differ from the usual one. In short, a trench is dug, reinforced and poured with concrete.
Connection of the foundation with the main
This is the most crucial stage. which needs special attention. Traditionally, two types of connections are used:
- "Tape-tape";
- Plate-plate.
According to the "tape-tape" type, the stages of work will be as follows:
- On the side of the installation of the extension, a trench is dug, corresponding to the depth of the laying of the main foundation.
- Further, at the base of the house, a hole is drilled half a meter in diameter - for the corners of the foundation of the extension. For all other parts, the hole corresponds to the diameter of the reinforcement at a depth of 2/3.
- The reinforcement is driven into the foundation of the house using a wood wedge ..
- The foundation of the extension is formed along the hammered reinforcement.
Installation according to the "plate-plate" scheme is possible in 2 cases:
- the width of the main foundation allows for the corresponding work (from 450 mm);
- the slab protrudes from the plinth (by at least 300 mm).
Thanks to the extension, it is often possible to solve another important task - to strengthen old foundation and thereby support the sinking house. Illustrative video instructions:
Features of laying the foundation in the case of an old house:
Floor installation in the annex
It is important to make the floor in the future room correctly from the point of view of 2 factors:
- thermal insulation;
- evenness of the surface.
It is important to make a high-quality floor, especially in cases where the extension to the house will be used as an additional room with the possibility of year-round living.
The strip foundation allows you to mount both a concrete floor and make it out of wood. In the case of a columnar base, it is only possible to produce a wooden covering.
Concrete floor
The sequence of technology for laying this floor looks like this:
![](https://i2.wp.com/v-teplo.ru/img/post/441-pristroika-k-domu/image10.jpg)
The concrete surface is cold enough, so this floor needs careful insulation, especially in the northern regions.
Wooden floor
On a columnar or strip foundation, a floor created on the basis of wooden floors is excellent. It needs additional treatment to avoid rotting, but wood flooring is much warmer than concrete.
The sequence for installing a wooden floor looks like this:
- If the extension to the house is being erected as a capital structure, then preparatory work is carried out to lay sand, crushed stone or expanded clay, as is the case with a concrete floor.
- A roofing material is placed on the foundation.
- Bearing beams are laid on it. If the foundation is columnar, then they are mounted directly on the pillars, the length is adjusted in accordance with the interval. If the foundation is strip, it is important to install intermediate pillars at a certain interval, or use long beams if the extension is small in area.
- A wooden covering is mounted on the beams.
All wooden parts must be carefully varnished to prevent decay.
An illustrative example of installing a wooden floor in a cinder block extension is shown in the video.
Frame installation
The next stage is associated with the direct construction frame structure... To do this, first of all, you need to install a strapping bar. If it is assumed that the wall thickness will be 200 mm, then the dimensions of the end bar will be 25-40 mm, as shown in the detailed diagram.
As a result, we get a structure of something like this.
Cutting of the groove in the base can be done complete or incomplete. Can be articulated without punching using a steel corner.
The lower strapping is done in several stages:
- The socket is mounted in a frame.
- The overlay is nailed into the base.
- The support leg is secured with a bracket.
The top rail is formed for reliable installation of floor beams, as shown in the diagram.
NOTE. The interval between the vertical supports must be at least 50-60 cm, since in this case it will be possible to easily lay insulation (mineral wool, foam plastic, ecowool, etc.). In addition, there is no practical need for a more frequent arrangement of racks.
The general structure of the frame is shown in the diagram.
Walls are erected according to the following algorithm:
- Installation on a foundation of a pre-fabricated lower trim. The strapping is screwed on with dowels.
- Vertical beams are nailed to the wall of the house if two structures are supposed to be rigidly fastened. If you just need to build a nearby building, then corner posts with temporary fastening are first made.
- Vertical beams are mounted. Their height is selected depending on the number of storeys of the structure, as well as on the method of connection with the main roof of the house.
- Next, the upper harness is mounted.
- The last stage in the installation is making holes for windows and doors.
A waterproofing layer is certainly placed between the strapping and the foundations - foamed polyethylene, roofing felt or other material.
ADVICE. If it is planned to build a large extension with a large number of beams, then it is more convenient to assemble the frame separately, installing all the beams on the lower harness. In this case, there is no need to fix each element with temporary mows.
Assembling the roof and connecting it to the main roof
The installation of rafters is carried out in the same way as for a conventional roof, however, the need to connect the roof to the roof of the house gives rise to a number of features of this work.
In general, the finished structure can be schematically depicted as follows.
After the construction of the frame, the material of the roof of the house from the side of the extension must be disassembled so that the rafters appear. It is to them that the connecting rafters of the extension are mounted. Installation is carried out according to the principle of a rigid triangle, while it is important to put an additional bar in front of the acute angle (shown by arrows in the figure). These elements also serve as an additional measure of protection in case of snowfall; therefore, they are also called anti-snow supports.
The sequence of actions for installing the roof can be briefly described as follows:
- The rafters from the extension are mounted with the upper frame strapping.
- The upper end of the rafters is connected to a purlin, which is pre-installed on the roof or attached directly to the roof rafters.
Video editing features
NOTE. It is not necessary to connect the rafters of the extension to the house in a rigid manner. This can damage the structure due to uneven shrinkage rates of the main room and annex. The optimal solution to this problem is the use of a sliding structure that provides free movement of the lower support.
Roof finishing and insulation
At this stage, the roof is completely finished with its sealing and insulation, as shown in the diagram.
NOTE. If the roof of the extension will simply adjoin the wall of the house, and not organically connect with its roof, then a sealant is used for insulation, tightly closing the hole between the roof and the wall, as shown in the diagram.
Construction and wall insulation
One of the last stages is the construction of walls and their insulation. An extension is a durable structure, and even if it is used only for household purposes, it is important to create sufficiently good insulation so that temperature drops cannot damage the inner surfaces of the walls and ceiling.
The structure of the wall can be schematically represented as follows.
In fact, this is the final stage of the construction itself. Next, the following work should be carried out:
- finishing work inside the extension:
- outside cladding of the building;
- creating a transition to the house;
- production of windows and doors in a building;
- carrying out all the necessary communications.
It is important to treat all wooden structures with special solutions that prevent rotting and the harmful effects of temperature changes.
Bar extension
The fundamental stages of the construction of the extension (pouring the foundation, erecting walls and installing the roof, followed by insulation and finishing work) do not depend on the choice of a specific construction material. However, depending on it, their technologies are selected, which differ markedly from each other.
Erection of the foundation
In the case of an extension from a bar (profiled or round), the differences begin already at the stage of laying the foundation. Since the weight of the future extension will be significantly greater than the weight of the frame analogue, accordingly, the base is required to be more reliable.
A tiled foundation or a pile foundation is often used, less often a strip foundation (for small outbuildings it is quite suitable). In any case, it is necessary that it is established for at least 1 year.
From the point of view of simplicity and cheapening of work, the best option would be to create a pile foundation, which can be built independently of the main foundation of the house.
Video - the basics of pile foundation installation technology
Walling
Building walls is quite simple in terms of technology. The only drawback of the bar is that it is quite heavy, and at least two people need to work with it together.
Fastening materials are used as follows:
metal staples and plates;
- brackets;
- steel corners;
- self-tapping screws, screws, nails.
Masonry technology for round timber in the construction of an extension to the house:
Remaining work
The technology of wall construction, insulation and decoration does not fundamentally differ from that described earlier.
In the case of the construction of a structure from a bar, you can easily make two-story structures. Of course, in this case, special requirements are imposed on the foundation and floors.
Brick extension
Brick extensions to a wooden house are erected less often. They are great for living, they can also be used as a utility room.
Most often in such cases it is used monolithic foundation... In this case, the brick structure can serve as the basis for the construction of the second floor of the same or attic. Installation of the floor and roof according to the technology does not have any fundamental differences from those discussed above.
Cinder block extension
And another cheaper and faster option for building an extension to a wooden or other house - from cinder blocks (foam blocks, gas blocks are also used). Such a room can serve as an additional room, but is most often used for household purposes.
The erection of a structure from cinder blocks occurs very quickly due to the large size building material... This option is great if the owners want to make a garage for a car or an ordinary canopy, veranda.
And finally - a short video review of the main stages of the construction of a frame extension to a wooden house.
Reading time ≈ 4 minutes
A private house needs expansion over time - there is a need to expand the kitchen, add a veranda or arrange an additional room. Therefore, the owner of the house has a question - how to make an extension to the house with his own hands? Below are the stages of construction using frame technology.
The advantages of wireframe technology
The frame extension to the house has important advantages:
- low cost and minimum amount of building materials;
- work is done quickly;
- there is no need to equip a massive foundation.
Schemes and drawings of the extension project are understandable to any novice builder. The technology is similar to assembling a constructor, but the end result is a comfortable and cozy additional room.
Preparatory work
The construction of an extension to the house begins with preparatory measures. Carefully inspect the site for construction, remove all debris and vegetation from it, mark the area and stock up on the following materials and tools:
- metal pipes for supports;
- components for concrete mix- sand, cement, gravel;
- self-tapping screws, nails, metal corner for fastening;
- boards for logs 5 cm thick and 15 cm wide;
- perfectly finished boards for finishing the floor;
- natural wooden wall paneling;
- bar 50 mm;
- concrete mixer;
- hammer, screwdriver, building level, rope and circular saw;
- block house under a log for cladding an extension from the outside;
- metal roof tiles.
Be sure to provide a drainage system under the extension. To do this, tamp the ground under the veranda and make a slope at this place for water drainage. Below is a step-by-step instruction for the construction of an extension.
Step-by-step instructions for building an extension to a house
1. Installation of supports. Nail a wooden board at least 5 cm wide to the wall of the house, which will become a support. Along the edges of the marked area for construction, install wooden structures - "rags". They must be installed a little further than the marked area. Pull a strong rope over them. Make sure the markings are correct so that everything is at right angles.
2. Dig a trench along the width of the foundation, one meter deep. Prepare a cement mixture of sand, gravel and cement with the addition of water. Make wood formwork. Begin to install the support pillars, make the distance between the pillars no more than 1.5 m.Pour a gravel cushion about 10 cm thick at the bottom of the trench. Saw the pipes in advance, and install them vertically in the pit, fixing them with boards. Next, fill the gaps between the support posts and the walls of the trench with the prepared solution. So that the vertical position of the pipe in the pit is not violated - fix the supports with spacers and wait three days for the solution to freeze. After it has hardened, the formwork can be removed.
3. Creation of the floor. At the next stage of creating an extension to a wooden house with your own hands, take log boards. Two boards are mounted to the supports with metal mounting angles at the end of the extension - place the rest between them. When installing lags, do not forget to check their horizontal position with a level. The transverse lags are mounted with 120 mm nails and grooves to the longitudinal part of the annex foundation.
4. Installation of the base for the walls and roof. Work begins by screwing the beams to the base of the floor using dowels and a hammer drill. The side rails are nailed to the walls. You can get acquainted with the video and photo of this work in our article. The stability of the structure is ensured by diagonal beams laid at the outer corners. Don't forget to mark the door and window openings. The entire structure is reinforced with transverse insertion jumpers. Outside, the base of the extension is sheathed with a block house. It is advisable to lay a layer of glassine on the boards of the sheathing before sheathing, it will protect the building from moisture.
5. Arrangement of the roof. After installing windows and doors, the roof is covered with metal tiles. Cover the place where the roof adjoins the building with a galvanized iron apron.
6. Internal work. An extension to the house with their own hands will soon be built, internal work remains. The walls and ceiling are sheathed with natural wooden clapboard. Before that, they can be insulated with penofol. To create a floor, you first need to make a rough floor. On the sides of the genital logs, a rough bar is laid, edged boards are laid on it. Insulation in the form of mineral wool is placed on them, and then proceed with the installation of the finished floor.
We hope that our instructions have helped you learn how to build an extension to your house. If you carefully study the sequence of work and properly prepare building materials and tools, as well as be patient, you can easily make a beautiful veranda yourself.
Video of the construction of an extension to the house with your own hands
No matter how large your area is private house, sometimes it is required to attach another room to it. The purpose of the new room may be different: inside they equip a bedroom, a pantry, a gym, a veranda, a dining room, even a bathhouse or a garage. The best way in this case - an extension to the house from the frame. The structure is put on the foundation, a kind of frame "skeleton" is made, on which walls made of OSB-plates, insulation and waterproofing are "put on". The extension to the house is equipped with a floor and a separate roof, sometimes windows and always a door.
Before starting the construction of a frame extension to the house, decide on its location. On the north or east side, it is advisable to place a pantry or utility room, on the south or west side - a bedroom or living room (then there will be a lot of light in the room, the sun will warm up the frame annex during the day, so you will save on heating).
If there is a bedroom or living room in the annex, then make it on the south side - this way you can save a little on heating
Now sketch out the plan of the house with the new room on a piece of paper, indicate the exact dimensions of the building and the materials that will be used in the construction.
This plan must be submitted to the bureau of technical inventory of your locality. Of course, not all homeowners run to BTI in order to organize a frame annex. But in vain! In the event of a check, the illegal construction will most likely be obliged to demolish it. Do you need such problems?
As practice shows, BTI specialists will not create obstacles and will quickly approve the project (maximum within 10 working days).
A permit from the BTI for an extension to the house will be issued within 10 days. Provided that the application meets all the established requirements, and the construction meets the technical standards
Tools and materials for creating a frame annex to the house
Permission has been received from the BTI. Now you need to prepare tools and materials for construction. You will need:
- cement mortar;
- wooden boards;
- sand;
- small stones;
- OSB plates;
- insulation;
- waterproofing;
- putty;
- paint for OSB boards;
- material for the roof device;
- wooden or metal door (at the request of the owner);
- a window in a plastic or wooden frame (if necessary);
- linoleum, ceramic slabs or laminate flooring;
- puncher;
- construction mixer;
- rollers and brushes;
- nails and screws;
- polyurethane foam;
- construction stapler;
- shovel;
- metal pipes with a diameter of 15-20 cm, a length of 2.7-3 m.
The cement mortar is sold in packages of 25 kilograms each. Terms of use are indicated on the packaging of the goods. Price - 700 to 2 thousand rubles, some of the best manufacturers - "Silka", "Maxil", "Mapei".
The base of the extension must be strong and stable, so choose high-quality cement for the foundation, not a cheap mixture
Wooden boards will be needed first to create the foundation formwork. Then they can be used to cover the cement-filled floor to insulate and soften it. For such purposes, spruce, pine, oak are best suited. The thickness of the board is at least 5 millimeters. Choose the length depending on the area of the frame extension to the house.
Choose an OSB with a thickness of at least 7 millimeters with dimensions of 100 × 100 centimeters. The slab itself should be smooth and solid. This indicates the high quality of the product.
Mineral wool or expanded polystyrene can be used as insulation. The first option is cheap, but the material quickly deteriorates. Expanded polystyrene has a long service life (up to 20 years). It is realized in the form of slabs, the size of one is 200 × 100 centimeters.
Choose products from 10 millimeters thick from companies: "Penoplex", "Extrol", "TechnoNicol".
Expanded polystyrene for warming an extension to the house is preferable to mineral wool. It does not absorb liquid, is not afraid of temperature changes
Waterproofing is required. As such, you can use a polymer roll material. Thickness - not less than 5 millimeters.
Price per square meter- about 500 rubles. Among the firms, users recommend giving preference to the following: Bolars, Penetron, Polylen, Zubr.
Putty and paint are needed for exterior and interior decoration. You can learn more about the choice of paint.
You can put metal tiles on the roof. It is durable and weather-resistant material that will last a long time, moreover, it looks stylish and is inexpensive.
You will pay 200-400 rubles per square meter. The thickness of the tiles must be at least 5 millimeters.
Important: the easiest way is to create a frame annex to the house using OSB. Such a room will be warm and durable if it is properly insulated. Of course, walls can be built from bricks, foam blocks or wooden beams. But it is much more expensive and more energy consuming.
The drawings below will help to determine the type of premises:
Using such a drawing, you can create a simple annex to a house with a pitched roof. Use your own dimensions
Such a drawing of an extension to the house will help you to easily and quickly build an additional room or, for example, a storage room.
By stages: stages of construction
The process of erecting a frame extension to a wooden house can be divided into several stages:
- foundation creation;
- pouring the floor;
- construction of a frame for an extension;
- production of walls;
- roof laying;
- installation of windows, doors;
- external finishing;
- interior decoration.
Work must be performed sequentially, observing the instructions and safety precautions. For some "events" (installing windows, laying the roof), it is advisable to involve an assistant.
Strong foundation: pouring the foundation
To create a frame extension to the house, it is necessary to fill the strip foundation. But if the site has a high level of groundwater, then it is more correct to make a pile or columnar base.
Instructions for the construction of a strip foundation are as follows:
- Mark up and dig a trench 30 centimeters deep and 20 centimeters wide. The result should be a rectangle or square.
- Fill the trench first with sand, then exactly halfway with stones for strength.
- Insert metal pipes in the corners of the trench. They will serve as the basis for the future frame.
- Construct the formwork for the foundation from the boards and fill the trench with cement mortar, prepared strictly according to the instructions.
- Leave construction for 24 hours until dry.
- Then fill the floor with cement mortar. It will dry completely in a day or two, depending on weather conditions. The warmer it is outside, the faster the cement hardens.
You will learn how to make a strip foundation from the video.
If you need columnar or pile foundation, watch the following videos. They will tell you about the rules for the construction of such bases.
Strong "skeleton": we put the frame
The future building already has iron pipes in the corners. Between them horizontally from the floor to the end of the pipe, other metal pipes are welded. The distance between the parallel parts is at least 70 centimeters. You can "connect" the corner iron parts with each other using wooden planks. They will also serve as a frame.
Important: if the distance between the corner tubes is more than 1 meter, then in the middle you can put another vertical tube or board to give the frame strength and reliability.
For information on how to make a frame for an extension to a house, see the video.
Construction "sandwich": building walls
Now, in the process of erecting an outbuilding from a frame to a wooden house with your own hands, the most difficult and interesting thing begins: the construction of walls. One camp is already there - it is part of the house. There are three more to do:
- attach the OSB to the frame with nails. There should not be large gaps of more than 3 millimeters between them.
- On the inside of the OSB-slab, fix the waterproofing with a construction stapler. The material should cover the entire area of the walls - from top to bottom.
- Attach the insulation to the waterproofing using polyurethane foam. The work is not difficult. It is quite possible to deal with it alone. Do not apply too thick a layer of foam and press the insulation board tightly against the OSB wall.
- Put OSB plates on the insulation. Attach them with self-tapping screws.
- Attach waterproofing to the existing wall of the house, and OSB on top.
- If there are gaps between the slabs or the floor, fill them with polyurethane foam.
Builders call this construction a "sandwich". It is erected quickly and easily, however, it is practical in operation, reliable and durable.
If you need to install windows and doors, provide them before you start installing the walls. In OSB slabs, you will need to cut holes of the required size in advance.
You will learn more about the plates themselves from the video:
Serious protection: no roof - no way
The roof for the frame extension to the house can be made single-pitched or. In any case, its creation involves the following stages:
- We build a base from wooden planks.
- We put insulation on top.
- We put waterproofing on the insulation.
- We fasten the metal tile with an overlap on top. In this case, moisture from precipitation will not accumulate under the tiles.
The lean-to roof of the extension to the house, as it were, continues the existing roof. It is quite simple to build it. It is enough to put wooden slats of the required length on the main roof
To make it beautiful: interior and exterior decoration
The construction of the frame extension to the house is not completed until the interior and exterior finishing has been completed.
The best option for OSB boards is painting.
First, the surface is prepared:
- sanding is performed;
- antiseptics are applied (good quality at Tikso, Drevolak);
- priming ("Body", "Tex").
Then the stove is painted. They use alkyd, oil, water-based, acrylic, latex paints. Different products are used for external and internal work. Information on the surfaces on which a particular colorant can be used is indicated on the packaging.
You can find out more about OSB painting.
The interior decoration also includes the treatment of the floor. Waterproofing is placed on the cement screed, then insulation and wooden boards (this stage can be skipped if you put laminate, linoleum or ceramic tiles on the insulation).
What's next?
It would seem that the frame extension to the house is ready. But putting it into operation is not yet possible - first, you need to conduct electrical wiring into the room, install heating radiators and connect them to the general heating system of a private house.
You will learn how to conduct the wiring.
Read about the heating system.
To make the extension to the house comfortable at any time of the year, lay the wiring inside, install heating radiators
Finally
In order for the frame extension to the house to be strong and safe, strictly follow the basic rules when building private houses in general and creating annexes, in particular. Do not forget about basic safety requirements at the construction site. Protect hands and eyes, and wear special clothing and sturdy footwear.
The easiest way to create an outbuilding from a frame for a house is an OSB-plate. She is quite lightweight, but fully copes with her "professional duties".
There is an opinion that using OSB is unsafe for health - products are impregnated with a mixture with phenol for strength. However, when painting and priming, phenol is stopped and not released, thus OSB does not harm health.
Time passes, and it turns out that a private house no longer satisfies the owners with its size and amenities. A decision is made to expand its area with an extension. We will tell you how to do this efficiently and at no extra cost in the article.
Save money without sacrificing quality - requirements for premises and materials
A poorly thought-out design of an extension over time will force something to be altered or completed, attached to country house... In order not to get into such a situation, we think over all the nuances, weigh the advantages and disadvantages of our idea. We start by choosing the location and size.
Each type of additional room has its own specific features in connection with the use, requirements for insulation, waterproofing and others. If a decision is made to build an additional living room in the country, then this is tantamount to building small house... It is required to reliably insulate, to prevent the appearance of dampness. If you plan to stay in cold weather, you need to think about heating.
Kitchens and bathrooms are another common type of annex. The requirements for them are practically the same. First of all, we think about engineering communications and bring them down even before the start of construction. Sewerage and water pipes are much more convenient to lay before pouring the foundation than to break through under it later. Floor waterproofing requires special attention. We are thinking about insulation, but if the kitchen is planned to be summer, then you can save on this.
The house is expanded with a veranda annex. The structure is light, serves for summer holidays, protects the entrance from wind, snow and rain. It is carried out in many versions: from the simplest in the form of a boardwalk, low walls with a roof on pillars, to a complex one with walls, doors, windows. No insulation is required, otherwise it will no longer be a veranda, but waterproofing of the foundation is necessary.
An extension to the house should be in harmony with the main structure. If the house has an external finish, then it will be easy to repeat it in the attached room. Wood goes well with all materials, which looks great even without additional finishing. The best option would be a frame structure:
- is being built quickly, literally in a few months;
- does not require a capital foundation, because it is light;
- without special knowledge and skills, it is available for DIY construction;
- will cost less.
The base for the extension is made on the same level as the foundation of the house. When attaching the structure to the house, we do not do it tightly - over time it will shrink - but we leave the expansion joint. In this respect, frame structures are favorably distinguished, which do not give vertical shrinkage.
If the structure is attached to the front wall, the roof continues the main roof and is pitched. We choose the slope so that the snow does not linger and the rain flows down. If this is an extension to the side wall, then the roof repeats the configuration of the main one. The roofing material is the same as on the roof of the house, if different, it is important that they are combined.
Columnar base - fast, cheap, reliable
For columnar foundation the annexes to the house use concrete, brick, or a combination of both. It is made mainly for a living room or a veranda. If used for a kitchen or bathroom, thermal insulation of the input will be required engineering communications into the house. Since the protection concerns on average half a meter of pipes, you can go for such costs, it will still be cheaper than a strip foundation. The floor is made of boards, for concrete you will need a lot of material for backfill, a fence around the perimeter.
We start by marking the site, the installation sites of the pillars are one and a half meters from each other. A separate pit 50 × 50 cm is dug under each pillar, the depth is greater than the freezing of the soil. At the top of the pits we expand a little: on each side about 10 cm. The bottom is covered with a layer of sand of 10 cm, carefully rammed, then crushed stone or broken brick, which is also rammed.
We spread the film for waterproofing, bring the ends to the surface. If we plan to build pillars of bricks, pour a little concrete mortar for the base into each hole and wait for it to set. When concrete pillars are planned, we tie the reinforcement at the top along the entire height, lower it into the pits. We provide equal distance between the walls. We put pieces of brick under the bottom to raise the reinforcement by about 4 cm.
We make the formwork for the basement, inside which we run the film. Pour the concrete layer by layer, pierce each layer several times with a rod so that air bubbles come out. It is important not to rush, it is better to wait until it grabs, then continue pouring. We carefully level the top of the pillar and wait about two weeks until the concrete hardens. All this time we pour heavily with water, cover with burlap or film.
When the foundation has acquired the required strength, the formwork is removed. We warm up the bitumen mastic, apply it to the posts and immediately glue the pieces of roofing material for waterproofing. There is a space left between the pillars, which it is advisable to fill up in order to insulate the floor. We use ordinary earth mixed with rubble or pieces of brick. We fall asleep in layers of 10 cm, ram. The technology for erecting a strip foundation is practically no different, but unlike a columnar foundation, it is solid.
Getting Started - Bottom Rail and Extension Floor
So, we settled on the frame version as the fastest and cheapest. In order for the tree to serve for a long time, it is required to adhere to two rules: to make reliable waterproofing and to carry out antiseptic treatment. Of course, the wood must be well dried. For waterproofing, the most reliable means is bituminous mastic. It is possible to use several layers of roofing material, but it is short-lived.
Then we make the bottom strapping. Usually a bar of 150 × 150 mm is used, but it is possible to use boards of 150 × 50 mm. We lay them horizontally along the entire perimeter, leveling with the outer edges of the foundation. We do not connect the boards of the first row to each other. We lay the second row on top, overlapping the joints in the first.
In the boards laid in this way on the foundation, we make through holes for the studs and connect them. If it is tape, we drill and connect it on the ground, and then we lay it. To get the effect of a single bar, we knock down with nails in a checkerboard pattern every 20 cm. It turns out a strapping of the required thickness, which, moreover, has additional advantages:
- costs much less than beams;
- it is very simple to connect with each other, it is more difficult with bars.
We attach the lower strapping to the slopes from the same boards 150 × 50 mm, installed on top of the edge along the outer edge. We fasten them with 90 mm nails between ourselves and with the beds. Next, we expose logs from a similar material installed on the edge. The distance between them is 60–80 cm, but it all depends on the size of the frame extension: the longer the logs, the narrower we install them. They are attached to the strapping board with nails, 2 on each side.
Now we start to warm the floor. The cheapest, albeit not very environmentally friendly option is tiled polystyrene foam with a density of at least 15 kg / m 3. Its advantage is that it is the only heater that is not afraid of moisture. We nail bars of 50 × 50 mm to the lower edges of the lag, which will hold the expanded polystyrene. A thickness of 15 cm is required: we use sheets of 10 and 5 cm. We lay them so that the seams of the lower and upper rows overlap.
The base is ready. Lay the subfloor on top. So that it does not warp over time, we put it, alternating the direction of the annual rings. We look into the cut: we put one board with an arc up, the other down. The finishing floor is made of plywood, the joints are staggered. A rough base is not necessary if you have grooved edged boards with a thickness of 30 mm or more or 15 mm plywood. We put it directly on the logs.
Wall installation - two assembly technologies
There are two technologies for assembling frame structures. The first is called frame-panel, when all assembly is done on the ground, then ready-made structures are installed in place and fastened together. Sometimes sheathing of the frame is carried out immediately, which makes it even stronger. Another method involves gradual installation right on site. Which one is more convenient - everyone decides for himself. The shield assembled on the ground cannot be lifted alone, assistants will be required.
We begin the construction of the frame with corner posts. For them and intermediate racks, we use a beam of 150 × 150 mm or even 100 × 100 mm. The distance between the racks is determined by the width of the insulation, which we find out in advance. We arrange the pillars so that the gap between them is 3 cm narrower than the width of the insulation. So we will save on waste-free use of the material and improve the quality of insulation without leaving gaps.
Fastening can be done simply and reliably with metal corners installed on both sides of the racks and fixed with stainless screws. Before finally fixing the rack, we carefully check its verticality, this is especially important for the corners. One incorrectly aligned beam will lead to the fact that the entire extension is bent.
Temporary slopes, which are installed from the inside and serve until the outer skin is attached, help to maintain the correct shape of the frame. If the sheathing is made of a rigid and durable material such as plywood, OSB, GVK, it is able to independently strengthen the base, which will stand securely after removing temporary mows. When a soft material is planned for sheathing: siding, lining, then you cannot do without permanent braces. It is better to install them two at the bottom and at the top of each rack.
In the places where windows and doors are installed, we fasten the crossbars. We make the racks next to them double: they experience increased loads and should be stronger. The final fastening of the frame is carried out by installing the upper strapping. In order not to invent anything, it can be similar to the bottom one: a bed made of two boards fastened together and a strapping of the same boards installed on the edge. To it, in the same way as the floor logs were attached, we nail the floor beams from 150 × 50 boards to the edge with nails.
We constantly check the geometry of the entire structure, as well as the correctness of the installation of the struts and crossbars: the columns are strictly vertical, the crossbars are horizontal.
Shed roof - design and technology
The roof of a house with an extension consists of two parts, which should be harmoniously combined into one whole. If the extension is built from the side, the roof will be a continuation of the main one, it remains only to repeat its structure in order to lengthen it. When an attached building is located along its length, its roof is pitched. The slope is provided by the difference in height between the front and rear struts. The height of the rear ones should ensure that the roof of the extension goes under the main visor.
The roof supports are rafters, which are laid on the beams. They are made of thick boards to ensure fixation, we make special grooves. We cut them out on the ground in a pattern so that they are all the same. Then, after installation in place, there is no need to align horizontally. We process the grooves with mastic, install and fasten them to the walls with brackets, metal corners on hairpins. If the length exceeds 4 m, we install additional vertical supports.
We lay the crate on top of the rafters. Depending on the roofing material, we make it solid or with a step of 0.3–0.6 m. The need for solid wood flooring arises in the case of using a soft material, we make it thinner for all other types of roofing. We make fastening depending on the type of roof. We fasten the profiled sheets and metal tiles with special self-tapping screws with sealing washers, and ondulin - with nails with a wide head. We provide overlapping waves. Don't forget about the final design: the wind bars not only protect the roof, but also give it a complete look.
Insulation is a mandatory operation for an extension
Mainly mineral wool and polystyrene are used to insulate buildings. Minvats resist fire, low thermal conductivity. They have light weight, convenient for consumers form of release: rolls, mats. Another popular insulation is polystyrene foam. Its advantages: it is inexpensive, it is not afraid of fungus, moisture, decay. But there are two big drawbacks: rodents love it very much, it emits toxic gases in case of fire.
We carry out insulation from the inside in the following sequence:
- 1. We install the waterproofing, having previously cut the strips of the required dimensions. We fasten with staples, using a construction stapler, in such a way as to ensure an overlap. We sheathe the frame completely, driving in staples every 10 cm.
- 2. We put insulation between the racks. We provide a snug fit to wooden structures, close the seams between the individual elements of the insulating material, overlapping the next layer.
- 3. We fix the vapor barrier, even if we use foam. The fact is that it is necessary to protect not only the insulation, but also the tree. We fix it in the same way as for waterproofing.
- 4. Sheathe the walls from the inside. We use drywall on a perfectly flat frame or OSB, if there are irregularities. It is tougher and smoothes out flaws.
Remained interior and exterior decoration, where there is room for the owner's imagination. The frame extension is erected quickly, cheaply, it has been serving for more than a decade, and it can be built practically without outside help.