Country house (simple and inexpensive): what type and project to choose, construction, nuances. Do-it-yourself summer cottages Summer cottage construction
A suburban area is not only land with a garden and plantings. Many city dwellers come there for a good rest, so you need to have a house on the site. Not all summer residents have the opportunity to build a comfortable house on six acres. Many people get out of this situation by choosing the option of building an economy class house.
Inexperienced and novice summer residents are faced with the question of choosing cheap materials for construction. Below are examples of inexpensive and cozy country houses with visual photos.
Where to start building
Any construction begins with a plan on paper. The house outside the city is not intended for year-round use, but for the sake of comfort it requires familiarization with a typical project.
Among the projects of country houses in the lead with an attic or attic. This option allows you to abandon the construction on the site of the outbuildings. All inventory and working tools are stored in the attic. In addition to such a house, you can attach a veranda or terrace that acts as a dining room.
Strip foundation requires more time and cost. The positive side of it is that it allows you to use the room under the floor as a basement.
The next stage of preparation is the material of the "box" of the future building. There are several types of inexpensive and reliable building materials:
Frame-panel structures
The frame is mounted with a beam and sheathed with wooden boards of fiberboard or chipboard. Expanded polystyrene, glass wool or polystyrene are used as insulation. The result is a house with minimal costs, which can be operated all year round.
The house from a bar differs in the durability. Construction work will cost more. When using cheap timber, there is a chance of encountering the problem of shrinkage of the building. As a result, cracks and gaps appear. The log house will also have to be insulated.
A clay house is the cheapest and easiest construction option. Building materials are right under your feet. The construction technique is similar to clay modeling.
The downside is the building process that is too long in time. It will take several seasons to build a clay dwelling.
The trailer is common among newcomers to summer residents. The best option for living in the summer or during the construction of a comfortable home.
Construction of a frame structure
Frame construction belongs to the category of low-budget. Build country house do it yourself without the help of specialists is not difficult. If all necessary materials are ready, the term of work will last several weeks.
To build a house you will need:
- bars for the frame;
- self-tapping screws and corners;
- wooden boards chipboard or fiberboard;
- insulation;
- piles for the foundation.
Stages of building a frame house
At the marked places, piles are driven in the corners. Mount concrete or brick supports under the joints of the walls. Then they cover them with waterproofing material and tie them with a channel.
A lattice of bars is laid around the entire perimeter. Wooden logs are placed on top of it at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. All parts are fixed with corners and self-tapping screws.
Next, vertical racks are mounted, firmly resting on the bar grate. The finished frame is tied and attic logs are placed on top of it. Next comes the work on sheathing the frame with wooden slabs. At this stage, holes are left for windows and doors.
Now you need to decide on the choice of roof for country house. Most summer residents choose gable and shed roofs. As an economy, the second option deserves more attention. When building a roof, do not forget about the vapor barrier. The roof will be inexpensive sheets of corrugated board or ondulin.
Facing the outside is done using siding. Before this, the outer walls are insulated with special materials. Instead of plastic windows, ordinary wooden ones without double-glazed windows are installed. This approach will significantly reduce the cost of construction.
With the help of simple and simple tips the country house will be ready for operation in less than a month. Those who do not have enough time for construction can contact construction company, where they will offer to build a house for a turnkey cottage at an affordable price.
A few words about the interior
No matter how the house looks from the outside, inside the country house must meet all the requirements of our time. Gone are the days when a cottage in the country was used for cooking and lodging for the night.
Rest in the country - first of all, comfort and organization inside the house. There are many budget ways to satisfy the most desirable interior solutions.
Country - rustic style in the interior. Here you can not do without cabinets and shelves, curtained with curtains with embroidery. Crocheted napkins, tablecloths and rugs from old clothes will look good.
Today, country houses are being built everywhere from block containers and other seemingly unusual materials. On the other hand, cottages are still built from more traditional materials, including wood, brick, hewn stone, etc. The question is if any General requirements regulating the construction process country houses, regardless of the type of building material used?
It turns out that there are such requirements, and their observance allows not only to build a low-rise individual housing facility, but also to subsequently register it with the cadastral authorities.
So, let's consider what are the features of the construction of suburban housing and utility facilities, and what are the requirements governing the process of construction and related work.
The need to comply with the requirements for the construction of country and garden facilities
In order to understand whether it is necessary to build a cottage in accordance with a number of generally accepted norms, or you can do without it, you should remember the need to register an object with the cadastral authorities.
We think that the answer to the question of whether it is necessary to register a country house is known to everyone, since without registration, the object cannot subsequently be sold or donated. Thus, if you are interested in Vacation home was your full property, which you are free to dispose of at your discretion, registration with the relevant services is necessary.
Again, registration will only be possible if the country house for year-round use or seasonal use is built in accordance with a professionally designed project and does not contradict the standards in the field of low-rise housing construction.
General requirements
The standards governing the process of erecting suburban facilities affect all stages of design, construction and finishing works, which in one way or another may affect the technical and operational characteristics finished house. First of all, the distance between country houses is taken into account, the norms of which can affect the comfort of life and the operation of the facility.
The instruction for the design and construction of suburban low-rise residential facilities involves the application of the rules and norms given in SNiP 2.08.01-89 and SP II 106-97 "Residential buildings", as well as in SNiP 30-02-97 "Design and development of country and horticultural buildings and structures".
The listed standards allow you to place certain buildings on your own site at your own discretion.
But the house and household facilities must be located in compliance with the following fire and construction requirements:
- Seasonally used garden houses should:
- Defend from the line of the edge of the street at a distance of at least 5 m;
- Defend from the line of the edge of the passage at a distance of at least 3 m;
- Separate from the borders of neighboring areas at a distance of at least 3 m.
- Location of stone dacha objects permanent residence suggests the need for:
- From neighboring stone buildings - no closer than 6 m;
- From neighboring wooden buildings- no closer than 8 m.
- Outbuildings and auxiliary buildings should be located no closer than 1 meter to the border of the site.
Important: If you have to buy or rent a diesel generator for a summer residence, it is advisable to rebuild a special room for the operation of the unit.
Features of the construction of suburban housing and household facilities
Consider the difference between country and garden houses in accordance with the characteristics of the construction works.
- Garden houses are currently considered the most affordable and economical option for the construction of a suburban low-rise housing facility.. But when choosing such an object, it must be remembered that living in such buildings provides minimum requirements in relation to the size of the living space, the variety of communications and.
- Country houses for seasonal living - this is not yet a full-fledged, but no longer budget temporary hut with a minimum level of comfort.
At the design stage of such objects, it is supposed to indicate the necessary communications necessary for a full-fledged stay in the warm season. A characteristic difference between seasonal buildings and all-season buildings is the lack of a heating system and the unpreparedness of water communications for use in the cold season. - Dachas designed for all-season operation are full-fledged residential facilities, in terms of comfort, quite comparable to a city apartment.
Such facilities are designed and built taking into account the availability of all necessary engineering communications, which can be equally effectively used both in summer and in winter. In addition, these houses without fail equipped with either a centralized heating system, or the required number of individual heaters, in one order or another dispersed throughout the residential and auxiliary premises.
Important: When building houses intended for all-season operation, it is necessary to meet a number of requirements in terms of ensuring optimal thermal insulation of walls, floors, ceilings, as well as door and window structures.
The energy efficiency of such facilities due to the permanent increase in the cost of energy carriers is becoming increasingly important.
- Utility and utility rooms (garages, sheds, etc.) are built in accordance with fire safety rules and in accordance with the requirements governing the location of objects. Other characteristics of objects are selected in accordance with the preferences of the owner or designer.
Features of dismantling works
Planning the construction country house, be prepared for the fact that you will need to dismantle the old building. Consider how demolition is performed country houses and how to cope with this difficult work with your own hands.
The main difficulty that you will have to face when dismantling such buildings is the dilapidation of the structure and the high probability of collapse of the ceilings. Of course, qualified professionals can be involved in the dismantling work, who will cope with the task with high quality and in a short time. But, unfortunately, the price of such services is high, and therefore it is better to do everything yourself.
The demolition of old country houses is carried out in stages from top to bottom:
- At the initial stage, the roofing and the crate are dismantled.
- Next, the truss system is dismantled.
- The next step is to disassemble the ceiling. This work should be carried out using special lifting equipment, as we repeat, there is a possibility of collapse of the ceiling, and, therefore, it is not recommended to perform such work manually.
- Next up are the walls.
- At the final stage, the floor structure is dismantled.
Important: The dismantling of country houses can only be carried out if all engineering communications are disabled.
- The remaining foundation can be strengthened, modified and used to build a new home.
Preparing the cottage for operation
Some modern summer residents know firsthand what it is passive income on the country houses and that this is a solid increase in the budget. But, in order for a suburban residential facility to be ready for rent, it must be properly prepared.
Registration of a country house after the completion of construction work involves a number of activities, including:
- arrangement of engineering communications, the list of which is determined by the type of object;
- interior and exterior decoration;
- decorating the exterior of a construction site and the area adjacent to it;
- preparation of the soil on the garden plot for subsequent planting;
- planting horticultural plantings, laying out flower beds, sowing lawns, etc.
Conclusion
So, we have decided on the basic requirements that apply to the construction of suburban construction projects. If you strictly comply with all these standards, then you will not need to remake the country house for subsequent registration.
Again matching all before listed requirements will make it possible to build those country houses that can be used seasonally for living, and the rest of the time to rent and receive additional income. You can find more useful and informative information by watching the video in this article.
The construction of any house, including a country house, should be carried out in accordance with technological requirements with the participation of experienced specialists. Building your own home is a rather labor-intensive and high-cost event, so many private developers massively build houses on their own.
After reading our article, you will find out what is better to build a summer house from and what points you should pay special attention to when building housing. We will also consider the main building materials for giving and determine which of them are the most practical and economical.
The construction of a country house is, first of all, a complex event that includes all stages of construction, from planning on a sheet of paper to roofing, laying all utilities, external and internal finishing work.
From it to start the construction of a country house
Where to start building a cottage? Before you start drafting a future country house, you need to clearly define the choice of materials. Depending on the type building material it will be possible to make a start when drawing up a project on paper.
Deciding on materials
All types of materials can be divided into several separate groups:
- The first is stone (brick, stone blocks, sand blocks, etc.);
- The second segment is a tree in any of its interpretations (rounded log, timber, hewn log, glued laminated timber);
- The next group is multi-component frame buildings (houses based on wooden or metal frame sheathed on the outside with a finishing material, such as OSB).
The choice of material for the construction of a summer residence is a rather serious and responsible step, which must be conscious. Taking up the construction of a house, you must clearly understand the end result for yourself. When choosing a building material, it is necessary to take into account all the pros and cons.
Briefly consider each enlarged segment of building materials:
- As for the stone, its undoubted minus is the price, for example, of a brick cottage is somewhat more expensive. In terms of reliability, durability, bearing capacity, brick, on the contrary, is preferable, but on the other hand, it must be clearly understood that this structure will require significant financial investments in terms of heating, especially in cold regions of the country;
- Wood, on the contrary, is less capricious and in terms of heating is not as demanding as brick. A house built according to all the rules, for example, from hewn logs, is warm enough, if it is properly insulated, has a presentable appearance. Of course, this is primarily environmentally friendly and not as expensive as it would seem from brick, but it should be noted that not everyone may like this and sooner or later it may well get bored with “living in a tree”.
- In addition, a wooden structure, given that the material is alive and subject to various kinds of deformation processes, is unlikely to allow you to soon carry out all activities related to finishing, both internal and external.. Otherwise, you can just throw away the money spent on Decoration Materials and on the installation work carried out in a hurry, as they say "down the drain."
IMPORTANT: also for the period from the start of construction wooden house or cottages before entering for permanent residence will be affected by the duration of shrinkage, which can last up to 2 years depending on the characteristics of the material, climatic conditions and construction technology.
Preparatory activities
- Of course, first of all, you need to make a detailed plan on paper with your own hands or use the services of architects;
- Next, you need to take care of building materials, at least necessary at an early stage of work (cement, sand, lumber, brick, etc.);
- After the plan is ready and approved, it should be cleared, leveled and marked with an accuracy of 1 cm, the boundaries of the future foundation;
- If the foundation is strip or columnar, it is necessary to dig a trench of the appropriate depth (depending on the load) or (for a columnar foundation) drill holes using a machine or hand drill;
- On this, all the preparatory activities end and it's time to proceed with the installation of the formwork (for the strip foundation).
TIP: If your construction site electricity has not yet been supplied or connected, then it may well be necessary to rent a diesel generator for a summer residence, with which you can provide electricity to the construction for some time. Also, a generator can be useful if there are constant power outages on the site.
Buildings in the country and their correct location
The location of the buildings in the country should be carried out in such a way that they do not spoil the overall aesthetic appearance and at the same time are correctly combined with the chosen design. Among other things, it is necessary to arrange individual buildings, for example, a bathhouse, a greenhouse, so that they do not take up extra space.
Also, when planning to locate buildings on the site, you should remember first of all about safety.
They acquire dachas in different ways - they inherit them, buy plots with a house and remake or complete them for themselves, or buy land in an almost open field and begin to develop virgin lands. Just such a process puzzled one of our craftsmen, who decided to join the suburban life. And since the most effective way to save money is to do it yourself, that's exactly what he did, starting small - with a summer house in the country "for the first time."
- Country house 6×6 with a built-in terrace 4×3:
- project;
- foundation;
- water supply;
- box;
- internal work.
Country house 6×6 with a built-in terrace 4×3
Gonzik1
Last year I bought a plot in the field (like a new holiday village). The poles were installed, electricity was brought to the site (it took about two months to complete the paperwork), they put a shield on the pole with a meter, an automatic machine and a socket. This year, having saved up some money, he began construction. I decided to do everything with my own hands, because it's cheaper and more reliable.
Do-it-yourself country house project
The craftsman created the cottage construction project during the winter with his own hands, according to his idea - this is the first module to which he will later add another one, combining both parts into a single structure. With the help of a special program, he made a drawing that made it possible to accurately calculate the required amount of building materials.
Foundation
Since the house is light, frame technology and one floor Gonzik1 preferred column foundation from special concrete blocks (20 × 20 × 40 cm). Also influenced his choice low level groundwater (GWL) in the country and the excellent condition of such foundations under neighboring buildings. Depending on the level, I used one or two blocks per pole - I removed the fertile layer, poured a sand cushion, laid the blocks. The plane was held with the help of a hydraulic level. According to the craftsman, he appreciated this simple tool - it is cheap and the measurement accuracy is excellent. The pillars were covered with roofing material for waterproofing. With the help of relatives, the foundation was ready in three days.
Water supply
There is nowhere to take the central water supply in the field, so the problem of water supply is a personal matter for every summer resident. Our craftsman originally planned to drill a well. Trial drilling at thirty-six meters was unsuccessful - instead of water, dense black clay went. The drillers reported that only an artesian well of about ninety meters would help, voiced a sky-high price. Gonzik1 I got upset, imagining the scale of the problem, and decided to dig a well, as the foreseeable future showed - the right decision. Three days of work, ten rings - a column of water for one and a half rings, is restored in an hour and a half.
Box
The strapping is two-layered - at the bottom there is a board 100 × 50 mm, on top - 100 × 40 mm, impregnated with fire and biological protection, the strapping elements were connected to each other with nails (100 and 120 mm). The strapping was laid on top of the roofing material and fixed to the posts with anchors.
All frame posts were also assembled from a 100 × 40 mm board on nails, the walls were raised right in place using temporary jibs. On the ground they collected only a skate, after raising it to the roof. This stage took another four days.
Next, they mounted rafters, wind boards, pulled the wind protection, over the counter-lattice and crate. As a roofing, our craftsman chose metal tiles.
Gonzik1
I read that no matter which side the sheets are laid on, they are more often laid from left to right. It turned out that no, the tile is laid from right to left, otherwise the next sheet will have to be brought under the previous one, which is extremely inconvenient, especially when installing alone. The weather was not very good, it was drizzling, there was wind, he moved along the roof like a cat, trying to cling to the crate with his feet. All twelve sheets of tiles (115x350 cm) were laid in half a day.
After the tiles, hands reached the ground, because of which the floor logs were not fully laid. Gonzik1 I used a 50x50x4 mm corner, a 40x4 mm metal strip connection, plus a piece of self-supporting insulated wire (SIP).
Next, we covered the entire structure with a protective membrane, installed a door, laid a floorboard on the terrace, and proceeded to sheathing the facade with imitation timber. Cashing was immediately treated with protective impregnation. In the process of work, the craftsman made adjustments to the project - he made a third window, so there will be more light, and the view from the window is attractive.
Internal work
With the end of the holidays, the construction process slowed down as much as possible, since free weekends did not fall every week, but continued. I finished with the floor - rough along OSB logs, a windproof membrane on top, stone wool slabs between the logs, a crate, and OSB again on it. The finish is linoleum. Also, the house got another window.
He brought electricity into the house, insulated the perimeter with stone wool, on top of a vapor barrier and lining as a cladding.
The finishing process continued according to the same algorithm, contrasting trims on the window openings added decorativeness to the house. All interior walls will be lined with clapboard.
Gonzik1
There are no plans for a stove, a house for seasonal residence - spring, summer, autumn. I plan to hang electric convectors, I have no problems with electricity there, three phases, a new substation, 15 kW per plot.
For all those interested, the craftsman posted the calculation of materials (the entire used board is 6 meters long):
- foundation blocks 200×200×400 mm, 30 pieces;
- board 50x100 mm, 8 pieces (for the bottom layer of the strapping);
- board 40 × 100 mm, 96 pieces - about 8 pieces left;
- board 25 × 10 mm, 128 pieces - about 12 pieces left;
- timber 100 × 100 mm, 3 pieces;
- rail 25×50 mm, 15 pieces;
- timber imitation 18.5 × 146, 100 pieces - about 15 pieces left;
- insulation, stone wool 1200 × 600 × 100 mm, 28 packs (6 boards each) - one pack left;
- windproof membrane 1.6 m wide, 60 m² per roll, 3 rolls;
- vapor barrier 1.6 m wide, 60 m² per roll, 3 rolls - approx. 0.5 roll remaining;
- OSB 3 2500 × 1200 × 9 mm, 15 pieces (rough and finishing floor) - about 1.5 slabs remain;
- metal tile 350 × 115 cm, 12 sheets;
- lining 12.5 × 96 cm, 370 pieces (10 packs) - not the fact that enough, partially used for filing the toilet, and the walls are not finished yet;
- wooden windows 1000×1000 mm, 3 pieces;
- entrance metal door 2050×900 mm, 1 piece;
- protective impregnation for wood, 10 liters - the rest is 3 liters, but the house is covered with only one layer.
Taking into account independent construction and finishing, the estimate turned out to be quite budgetary.
Gonzik1
- Foundation - 2500 rubles.
- Boards on the frame, wind protection, vapor barrier, imitation of timber (exterior finish), lining (interior finish), insulation, etc. - 110,000 rubles.
- Metal tile - 20,000 rubles.
- Door - 13,200 rubles.
- Windows - 4,200 rubles x 3 = 12,600 rubles.
- Forwarding SIP to the house - 3000 rubles (with the cable itself).
- Impregnation - 3600 rubles.
The electrician is still just going to breed around the house, I think I’ll fit in 8-10 thousand. I don’t quote the cost of nails, screws, staples for a stapler, etc., because I don’t remember how much I bought. Total: about 165,000 rubles.
For another short but fruitful vacation, I finished with the electrics, finished the interior lining with clapboard and painting, made a set for the kitchen, completed the terrace. I laid a 100 × 40 mm board on the terrace, took an unplaned one, processed it with an electric planer, then covered it with impregnation in two layers. Over the past winter, everything is in place, nothing has led, it has not dried up and is not warped. The craftsman plans to finish building the second block, but this test of the pen is up to the mark - an excellent cottage for a family vacation.
Since you are reading this article, a vacation outside the city on your site is attractive to you. A country house for this, of course, is necessary. It is highly desirable to build it simple, cheap and. For the sake of economy, not only Money and their labor, but also land area. In this publication you will find information on how to build a country house with your own hands, perhaps easier, faster, easier and cheaper. It is also desirable that the ergonomics of the house allows you to wait out a long bad weather in it without experiencing discomfort, and the design of the building makes it possible to use various design solutions for its external and internal design.
Where to start
The first question that needs to be solved when planning to build a country house is what to build it from? Where - it is already known, the site will not be moved anywhere. According to the material, soil at the construction site and weather conditions, the design of the house is selected, developed or selected for it. finished project, and then - estimates, purchases, and for business. We will start with the choice of material.
What to build from?
Since we are interested in options that are easy to implement, log houses are also excluded from consideration: it is very difficult to build them on your own. In addition, such houses are sensitive to seasonal ground movements and therefore require a foundation no less reliable than a fully buried tape one (from 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth of the NGP, counting along the bottom of the tape). The foundation of full penetration must stand to give its own shrinkage, at least from the end of summer until full spring warmth next year. The same endurance is required for insulated slab foundations, for example. swedish plate. There is, however, a type of foundation for wooden houses, which does not require a technological break (see below), but the timber or log structure itself must shrink for a year before it is ready for finishing. So a log or log house will be disproportionately expensive (from approx. 12,000 rubles / sq. m) and difficult to build on your own.
The same situation occurs with brick houses and . Ultimately, the construction of a small country house made of brick, foam block or timber turns out to be appropriate only in very small areas, when an extremely compact structure is required. In this case, the house is built 2-storey; brick and lumber technologies allow an unprepared, but attentive and accurate builder to build a house on 2 floors. Examples of layouts for compact 2-story brick and log house given in Fig.:
Note: it is easier for a novice builder to build a foam block house than a brick, timber or log house. The construction of a country house from foam / gas blocks makes sense if the cottage is visited all year round - no additional insulation is needed and there will be less heating costs.
The easiest and fastest way to build small house- assembly from a ready-made panel house kit or structurally insulated panels (SIP). A 20x20-foot (6x6 m) prefabricated house is set up in a week by a pair of chimpanzees of average mental ability trained according to the instructions for the kit. No joke, there were such experiences. But, alas, the cost of construction. At current prices, somewhere from 18,000 rubles / sq. m. Without foundation.
A SIP house will cost less, approx. from 15,000 rubles/sq. m with a foundation on geoscrews (see below). However, SIP structures are held on locks between the panels. In order for a SIP house to be completely reliable, it must have a lot of internal partitions from the same SIP with locks. Since there are few or no partitions in a compact house, we also do not touch SIP as a material for it.
So we come to the conclusion: to build a country house, so that it is fast, simple and inexpensive, you need it from wood. With one small but very significant exception, see below.
Project
An inexpensive garden and / or compact country house is best built according to a standard project; see below for essential construction details. Ready free project It is quite easy to find a country house with the help of any search engine. Or for a fee - a detailed standard project of a garden house for 300 rubles. find really on the relevant sites.
How to choose easier and cheaper
However, when sorting through projects, it is necessary to take into account some significant circumstances, namely, the cost, duration and complexity of the zero cycle, i.e. earthworks and foundation laying. It's the frosty heaving of the soil. With seasonal shifts, the ground under the house does not shake and does not roll over in waves. Summer cottages are cut into soils of various kinds, but having one common property - sufficient connectivity of their own, otherwise no one needs such a summer cottage. Therefore, within a certain space on the surface, frost heaving of the soil is reduced mainly to raising/reverse subsidence of its surface with a slight heel.On the other hand, a small country house has excessive rigidity and elasticity. Here the square-cube law, well known to technology (and stubbornly overlooked by amateurs), operates here. It is easy to test it by experience: glue cubes with sides of 2 and 10 cm from ordinary writing paper and try to crumple one and the other. The third factor is the intrinsic cohesion of the soil is inextricably linked with its mechanical properties.
Without going into further details, we will immediately report the conclusion: if a small wooden country house in terms of fit into a circle of a certain diameter, then on ordinary soils of garden plots it can be built on an unburied foundation, which is much faster, easier and cheaper. In what circle should the project of a wooden house fit in the plan so that it can be built on an unburied foundation on soils up to and including medium-heavy, is shown in fig. It all depends, as we see, on the proportions of the structure: the more square the house, the better it plays out seasonal ground movements. Therefore, the houses are "trams" for narrow sections it is better, without looking closely, to build on the foundation of a normal deepening. But if the ratio of the “sticks” of a T-shaped house lies within 1 Note: the veranda/terrace is included in the projection of the house if it is rigidly connected with its design. Verandas that do not have a mechanical connection with the house or are hinged to it are excluded from the projection of the house in the plan. We will assume that we have decided on the foundation. We only recall that under a brick, timber or log house on all soils, except for non-rocky ones, it is necessary to lay a normally buried tape or TISE foundation. The slab foundation with insulation “settles down” on the ground for 2-3 years; this is enough for a timber or log house to begin to split. Under a house made of timber or foam blocks on slightly heaving soil, it is possible to lay a foundation on geo-screws (see below) with a steel grillage. An unburied foundation for a compact country house is the easiest and cheapest way to assemble a columnar foundation from ready-made concrete blocks 200x200x400. Blocks are laid out on a cement-sand mortar from M150, two in a row; top across the bottom. Thus, the column is obtained in terms of 400x400 mm. Pit pits for posts are dug to a depth of 0.5 m; of which 15 + 15 cm falls on the anti-rock sand and gravel pillow. It makes no sense to deepen the columns of blocks by more than 20 cm: the dressing of the seams is weak, and the horizontal components of the frost heaving forces will tear the columns. The number of rows of blocks in the column is made more than 2 if the house needs to be raised above the ground by more than 20 cm. a week. The recessed foundation of a compact house is often, following the model of large buildings, piled on bored piles in soft roofing material formwork. If the house is on a slope, asbestos-cement pipes are taken to the pile shell, which makes it possible to compensate for the height difference along the slope of up to 1.7 m or more. With regard to fast small-sized construction, the disadvantage of these foundations is the same as that of the tape - it must stand and settle at least from autumn to spring. Note: there is no point in laying the TISE foundation for a light compact house - the "caps" of the TISE piles normally work in the ground only under a sufficient weight load from the building. Of the small-sized houses, only a 2-story brick or concrete one is capable of creating one. The best option for a recessed foundation for a compact house is on geoscrews. Geo-screws are a type of shortened screw piles especially for light buildings. Unlike conventional ones, ground screws are not designed for swampy, loose and floating soils. A foundation with geoscrews for a large house will cost significantly more than a self-made tape foundation, because. ground screws are not cheap in themselves, but for a small house this is not so scary, since few screws are required. A geo-screw for soils of low and medium density, according to the principle of keeping it in the ground, is somewhat similar to a furniture confirmatory screw and also looks like it, see Fig.: The smooth head of geoscrews for dense soils is uniformly cylindrical. Those and other ground screws can be used on soils up to excessively heaving. On the heads of geoscrews, you can either lay the wooden lower trim of the structure, or mount a steel grillage. For information on how a wooden house is built on screw piles, see, for example. track. video: The advantages of ground screws for quick construction on a small site in cramped conditions are enormous: Note: if you are building according to a ready-made project, which indicates the type and characteristics of the foundation, then you need to follow the recommendations of the designers, or consult with them about whether such and such a foundation is suitable on such and such soil. We come to the very essence: what kind of simple country house will be built cheaper and most likely? In ascending order of cost, complexity and time of construction, as well as potentially aesthetic qualities (suitability for design and decoration), the options are next. way: KUNG is an abbreviation for a Unified Body of Normal (Zero) Size. In the USSR, unified closed bodies for cars appeared after the Second World War and, thanks to their convenience, the name kung soon became a household name. A country house made of kung, most importantly, is very cheap: a decommissioned kung change house from ZIL-131 can be found for 30,000 rubles. And the construction comes down to bringing it and putting it on posts, concrete supports of grape trellises, etc., laid on a crushed stone pillow (so that weeds do not germinate and annoying living creatures do not start). The foundation for the kung is not needed on any ground in any climate - the kung is designed for off-road driving and overturning of the carrier vehicle. The kung has only one drawback as a country house: a utilitarian appearance, which any designer's attempts only stick out. But there are a lot of advantages: It is better to look for a kung for a country house from ZIL-131 or GAZ-66 cars (see fig.): they have a flat floor and it is easier to put them on posts due to small or no recesses for wheel niches. You need 6 columns (it can be brick folded dry): in the corners in the middle of the long sides. Among other things, kungs from ZIL-131 and GAZ-66 are cheaper and easier to convert into housing than Ural and KAMAZ ones. Note: do not take non-standardized "booths" from the ancient ZiS's and GAZ-51-53, their frames are highly susceptible to corrosion and insulation is no good. The width of the kung is standard according to the zero auto-dimension (2.4 m), and the length can be in the range of 3.5-8.5 m. laying a deep foundation. For a country house, it is preferable to look for a two-slot kung (two-slot), on the left in fig. But any other empty one turns out to be surprisingly spacious, in the center. Kung change houses (top left and right in the figure) already provide normal habitation for 3-4 people, but it would be even better to look for a kung from old hardware communications. There are also sleeping places for a crew of 3-4 people, and after some application of your hands from such a kung, you get not a house, but a candy, at the bottom right in fig. It is better to remove the right (looking from the entrance inside) compartment for the autonomous power supply (BEA) gas unit: a mini-toilet with a shower is placed in its place. Removing half of the shelves above the left compartment of the BEA, we get a place for a gas stove for 1-2 burners and a small cutting table. The BEA compartment itself, as if on purpose, is intended for garden tools, planting material, etc., and with access also from the outside, through a wide hatch. In addition, there are side windows in the hardware communications kungs, which can not be said about all kungs - military cabins. Chalet means hut, and what changes the meaning of this word has undergone with the development of architecture is another matter. A country house-hut is durable almost the same as a kung, because. its load-bearing trusses are triangular. A small house-hut (approx. up to 4x6 m) can be placed on a non-buried foundation on any soil, except for excessively heaving. Materials for a hut house are required 1.5-2 times less than for a bungalow or frame house, and it is easier to build it without experience and with a minimum set of tools. The hut house has one more advantage inherited from the ancestors: it fits perfectly with almost any finish in any landscape, see fig.: There are few drawbacks to the chalet. The house-hut retains all its advantages up to a size in terms of approx. 6x9 m, then it becomes more complex and material-intensive than traditional ones. Even in a small-sized hut, one of the sleeping places has to be equipped in the attic, where you have to climb a vertical ladder, that's all. In America and Canada, single hut houses are quite widespread - shelters for hunters, fishermen, beekeepers, seasonal sharecroppers (this is the same as the Soviet hectare farmer, who remembers), on the left and in the center in the figure: Arrangement of a single-seat house-hut - a shelter and a 3-seat country house But a house-hut of only 3x3 m in plan can also be a country house for 2-3 people, on the right. In both cases, there are few heating costs, because. the relative area of heat loss of a house-hut is smaller and it warms up faster due to more active air circulation. If your dacha is commercially inhabited from the first spring heat to the winter cold, then the hut house is optimal for you. After the kung, if you manage to buy it, who knows, they know the real price of the kung. The construction of a hut house with dimensions in terms of up to 6x4 m is carried out step by step. way (this is the so-called airship technology developed by the Germans to build their zeppelins): The hut house will be strong enough and durable only if the work on its construction is carried out in the specified sequence. This is probably the reason why few build hut houses - it’s easier to work on the principle of “take more, throw more”. Drawings of a house-hut 3x3 m for two or three are given in Fig.: The inset at the top left shows the design of facade frames for a house up to 4x6 m. The material, as well as intermediate frames, is timber 150x75. Firstly, on the facade frames, 2 ties are added to the tightening (intermediate frames without them). Secondly, instead of a ridge run, a ridge beam of the same section is used. Thirdly, the frames, except at the corners, are fastened with middle and upper straps (longitudinal stiffeners) from the same beam. Longitudinal and transverse bonds are connected by a half-tree tie-in. Those. using the example of a 4x6 m house, it is already clear how the complexity of construction and the material consumption of a hut house grow with an increase in its size. Note: on the lower screed, 2 more ends of the beam 100x75 are visible on the sides of the window. They are supported by internal partitions. The door frame on the other façade extends up to tightening and is made of timber 75x150; the lower screed of this facade is split. If this house is without a base, the window frame is similarly performed. In the general concept of a bungalow, this is an unheated one-room country house with an extensive covered veranda, structurally integral to it. For a weekend summer cottage in fairly warm regions, a “generally accepted” bungalow house is optimal, because. it is spacious, well ventilated, does not overheat by the Sun, and in construction it is no more complicated than a frame house, but less material-intensive. However, today little is known to professional builders outside the tropics that the bungalow is also a kind of building technology. Bungalow huts built on it (another name is hakale) can still be found in the wilds of Russia, the north of the USA and all of Canada. Some of them are over 200 years old, but most of them are still habitable. A house built using bungalow technology is easily recognizable by its 2-layer sheathing of vertical boards; the outer row is intermittent, see fig. on right. Bungalow, as a technology of wooden construction, combines elements of half-timbered structures and frame with working sheathing. Compared to both, bungalow technology has a footprint. advantages: The disadvantages of building using bungalow technology are, firstly, the increased requirements for the experience and accuracy of the worker (see below). Secondly, there is some complexity in the design of openings: the outer skin boards need to be cut in place to fit the trim, otherwise pockets are formed - moisture traps. Bungalows as shelters are generally more popular than huts due to better habitability. In a bungalow, you do not have to climb up to sleep and stick out to eat. The device of a bungalow-type shelter is shown in the figure: Drawings of a mini bungalow house - shelters The foundation, of course, is not necessarily a strip foundation (in this case, an unburied strip foundation, NZLF), but any one suitable for local conditions. If columnar or pile, then 12 supports are needed: 3 on the sides along the veranda and 4 (under each vertical rack) on the others. This house can be extended in length up to 3-3.5 m. Then, if you do not lengthen acc. veranda, you can fence off the toilet, and the attic in any case remains free for property and supplies. The “real” bungalow for outdoor recreation with dimensions of 4x5.875 m is, of course, more complicated in plan (see the next figure), just like a frame house (see below). There is no attic (this is a characteristic feature of "real" recreational bungalows). The requirements for the foundation are the same, but already for soils up to and including medium heaving; prev. the option is excellent also on strongly heaving soils. The main features of the bungalow as a building technology are indicated above. In addition: the power frame is assembled from a bar from 150x150 without jibs. Yes Yes! The rigidity of the structure is given by the sheathing of vertical boards. Plywood and OSB are of little use, because under each joint of sheets, lining racks and valleys are needed. Bungalow construction schemes are given in the figure: The truss floor structures are not conventionally shown, they are ordinary. Please note, on the left in the figure: the triple corners of the frame are assembled in a half-tree and into a spike, and the spikes of the racks are on the inside of the corners. This is an indispensable condition for the strength of the structure: the elements of the load-bearing frame must cling to each other at the corners even without steel fasteners. Although it is necessary, see the scheme for reinforcing the corners in the center in fig. It is unacceptable to use steel corners, linings, etc. in this case! For the Old Testament "oakness" you have to pay with labor. Sheathing boards need to be oriented with “humps” (bulges of annual layers) as shown on the right in the figure: inner inside, outer out. The outer boards should be slightly narrower than the inner ones, then in the process of warping the wood, the sheathing will compact and compress the frame. With any other arrangement of "humpbacks" it will split and the whole house will weaken. All boards are attached to the frame along short (end) edges with three (not in pairs!) Nails or self-tapping screws. The edge boards are also fastened along the long edges to the corner posts with the same fasteners in a row or with a snake (zigzag) in increments of 100-120 mm. The outer boards are attached to the inner boards along short edges with pairs of fasteners; long - in a row with the same step. The assembly of the power frame of the bungalow is a very important stage of work. And laborious, because you can’t hammer staples with a carpenter’s hammer, and you can’t tighten 12x300 self-tapping screws with a screwdriver. In old designs, instead of self-tapping screws, oak dowels were placed in wedging. The frame of the house using bungalow technology is assembled in the next. order: The frame mini-house does not have any features compared to the large residential one; the scheme of its device is given in Fig.: The order of construction is described in detail and with illustrations in many sources. You can also watch a video about the construction of a "classic" frame house 6x4 m:
The complexity and cost of building a frame house is higher than all those described above. The attention, knowledge and accuracy required to build a hut house and a bungalow do not count: they do not require costs and do not take time. But the frame mini-house also has an undeniable advantage: a simple shape with vertical walls and smooth cladding make it suitable for a wide variety of design delights, see fig. Also, the design of the frame house is very plastic. On the one hand, it forgives rather gross mistakes of novice builders. On the other hand, it gives creative lovers a certain scope for experimentation. See, for example, a video about the construction of a small frame house-shelter:
It is only necessary to add to this plot that the comments of the audience about the insulation are fair. Since it is impossible to “drive out” the dew point once and for all outside, and there are no massive walls where it could “walk”, insulating materials in such structures must be used to prevent condensation in the insulation layer and further inside: EPPS or cellulose insulation (ecowool) . The crossbar of the roof (all as it is, its supporting structure) of a small house also has a feature. It is determined by its small size, and, as a result, the excessive rigidity of the structure, as well as the absence in it (forgive the clericalism), put a load-bearing partition (internal main wall). To hold the latter, a fully connected foundation is needed; at least - tape normal depth. Rafter structures (in this case, this is the same roof beam) are, as you know, hanging (pos. 1a in the figure) and layered (pos. 1b): In the first, the rack of the truss truss rests on a transverse screed beam, and in a layered truss, on a load-bearing partition; split tie. It is technically possible to make a load-bearing partition in a small house, but it is not justified in any sense, including ergonomic - habitability. Therefore, the roof trusses of small houses are made only hanging. As for the methods of assembling the truss structure of a small house, they can be any of the well-known poses. 3 and 4. Choose whatever you like according to skill, availability of materials and desire. The minimum size of boards for a house up to 6x6 m is 40x130, ridge timber - 100x75 and Mauerlat - from 150x75. In a bungalow house and a frame Mauerlat, a beam of the upper trim can directly serve.Foundation
Unburied
buried
Geoscrews
Video: installation of a frame house
What house to build?
When not to excess
Chalet
How to build a chalet
Bungalow and… bungalow
Bungalow like bungalow
Bungalow as technology
Skeletons
Video: country house 4 × 6 using frame technology
Video: do-it-yourself mini-frame house
In conclusion about the roof